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الأربعاء، 13 فبراير 2019

Things We Don’t Cherish and Things We Do

“Often our spending differs from our real values. We fritter away cash on things we don’t cherish and deny ourselves those things we do.” – Julia Cameron, The Artist’s Way

The Artist’s Way is a fantastic book about nurturing internal honesty and creativity that I recently found myself rereading, and when I stumbled onto the above quote, it stuck right in my head and I knew it would eventually turn into an article here because it just nails a fundamental truth about personal finance.

Cameron’s point is simple: spending money on things we don’t care about is a financial and personal misstep; denying ourselves things we do care about is also a financial and personal misstep. Both of those steps lead to misery, but in different ways.

The more obvious misery comes from self-denial. When there’s something that we cherish that we intentionally and frequently choose not to spend money on because we need it for other things, we quickly get a sense of feeling deprived and sad. This happens often to people who are just figuring out the ropes of financial responsibility. They make stiff financial cuts to their life and then discover that they’ve cut some things that are really dear to them and find themselves feeling miserable. Unless corrected, this usually leads to a complete abandonment of financial change and a return to one’s old habits – after all, even with financial pressure, it will still feel like a more joyous life.

However, a more subtle misery comes from spending money on things you don’t really care about. Spending extra money on things like name brand household supplies or on items bought solely to impress someone or on expensive but completely forgettable meals can really add up over time, and that’s money taken away both from achieving financial stability and from things you might otherwise truly cherish. Taking money away from financial stability adds a significant level of background stress to one’s life – that very financial stress is often the motivator for people to start making financial changes – and taking money away from things you truly care about can make one feel deprived, as noted above.

The optimal situation is where you’re spending money truly in line with your values – minimal spending on things you don’t cherish and adequate spending on things you do truly cherish. That can go out of balance in several ways, and all of those ways contribute to a sense of stress and unhappiness in life.

In my own life, I’ve found that achieving this kind of balance is like aiming for a target that I never quite reach, but happiness is found by getting close to it and consciously working toward it. You never quite reach it for very long because you’re constantly changing as a person, but aiming for that target and being close to that target is very life-affirming: you don’t feel (much) financial stress but you don’t feel overly deprived, either.

How do you go about it, then? There are a few key elements.

First, you have to “trust the process.” It takes time to achieve a balance of spending as little as possible on things you don’t cherish and spending adequate and reasonable money on things you do cherish. It’s a target you’re never going to perfectly hit, and you’re going to miss it widely sometimes, especially at first. It’s okay. Give it time. Trust that you’re going to eventually hone in on a much healthier balance, but that missing it, especially at first, doesn’t mean that the whole idea is bogus.

Second, you have to be a little introspective and really listen to yourself. The two things you really need to pay attention to are the sense that something you really care about is missing in your life and also the underlying stress that comes from financial insecurity and not achieving or making progress toward financial goals.

Those two feelings tend to work in opposition to each other. If you listen to one too much, the other one gets cranky and starts to act up. The feeling that tells you that something is missing tends to be louder and more obvious, but it’s a bit easier to work with. The feeling that your finances are in a shambles is less obvious but more corrosive, as it fills your life with a low but slowly rising level of stress. It doesn’t shout at you all at once – it just slowly makes things miserable.

Look for both. Listen for both. If one is loud and the other is quiet, it’s a sign that you’re out of balance and you should move slowly in the other direction. If you’re feeling deprived, then you should figure out ways to alleviate that feeling without just opening the floodgates on a spending spree. If you’re feeling the corrosiveness of financial stress, you should cut back on many things that aren’t obviously a key source of contentment in your life.

Third, you have to be willing to really consider whether you value something or not, and accept that you might not actually value some things as much as you thought you did. A huge part of this whole process is figuring out what you actually care about. That doesn’t mean what you think that you should care about. That doesn’t mean what you think others care about. That doesn’t mean what you cared about in the past and keep involved with even though your passion as faded. That doesn’t mean what pop culture is telling you that you should care about. All of those things are false signals. They’re the things that drain our money without any real return for us. They’re the source of that acidic financial misery and stress.

What you need to think about is whether or not you truly care about the things you’re spending money on now. Do that with every purchase, before you do it, as you’re doing it, and after you make it. Is this something that you really cherish? Or is it something that you think you ought to cherish but actually do not? Maybe you used to cherish it but you’ve changed or your life has changed. Maybe you feel social or cultural pressure to cherish it but you actually don’t. Pay attention to that. Don’t spend money on things you used to cherish but don’t any more. Don’t spend money on things that your friends or society or your culture tell you that you should cherish but aren’t highly meaningful for you. Use that litmus test for everything you buy beyond the basic essentials, and use it repeatedly (because you do change as a person).

Fourth, cut back on everything, but pay attention to which cuts actually hurt and be unafraid to roll them back. The strategy that works best for me is to say no to spending, then consider whether I’m really missing out on something I cherish later, and restore it if I do come to that realization. Yes, there are times when I skip out on something that I later decide is really important to me, but it’s far more frequent that I say no to something and then promptly forget about it. You’re far better off changing direction on 5% or 10% of your spending than overspending 90% of the time.

Finally, you have to be willing to see the benefits of responsible spending. Part of the reason that people err on the side of spending on things that they’re uncertain about is that they often don’t see the benefits of not doing so. It is very easy to lose track of the benefits of responsible spending because they’re not obvious at first glance, or they appear to be just a drop in the bucket.

The biggest non-obvious benefit of being very responsible with your spending is that you basically kill ongoing financial stress, which is corrosive to almost everything it touches. Financial stress is a kind of subtle background stress that ends up weighing in on all kinds of decisions in your life, making you feel subtly on edge and stressed out about things as simple as checking the mail or telling your partner about something cool you did today. Cutting down on financial stress (and eventually eliminating it) is an enormous life benefit, but it’s not an in-your-face benefit like the benefit of making a purchase in the moment is.

There’s also a sense of achievement and accomplishment and progress that comes from steadily paying off debts and steadily filling up your retirement savings. Step by step, the future doesn’t feel like a place for wishful thinking; rather, a bright future begins to feel inevitable. That’s incredibly powerful for your sense of well-being. That’s something worth cherishing on its own.

So, here are three things to think about.

First of all, the best financial life is one where you spend adequately on things you cherish and spend absolutely minimally on things you don’t. In a healthy life, this leaves you with a financial surplus, which you can then apply to something you’ll likely cherish in a less obvious way, which is paying off debts and improving your financial security.

Second, a big part of that balance is understanding what it is that you cherish and what you don’t. People often become unclear on this, particularly in the heat of the moment. Influences such as your past passions, your personal relationships, and the constant nudging of culture can make you feel like you cherish something for a short while, but it doesn’t last. Understanding what it is that you cherish now is important, and that takes some honest reflection.

Finally, this is an ongoing, imperfect process. There are times where you’re going to miss the target. That’s okay. When you feel like you’re missing out on something you cherish, listen to that. When you feel like you’ve overspent on something, listen to that. When you feel financial stress affecting your emotions or your relationships or your state of mind, definitely listen to that. You’re a marksman honing in on a very small target and what you’re hoping to do is get consistently close to it.

Good luck!

The post Things We Don’t Cherish and Things We Do appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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101 Costs You Need to Budget for if You’re Always Forgetting Expenses

83% of Drivers Saw an Increase in Car Insurance This Year. Here are 2 Ways to Save

Notice an increase in your car insurance rate this year? Welp, you’re not the only one.

In the past year, 83% of U.S. drivers experienced a rate bump, according to The Zebra, a car insurance comparison site.

Even more, it found that the average annual cost of auto insurance is now $1,470 — the highest it’s ever been.

Instead of wallowing in despair and hopelessness, it’s time to take action.

2 Ways to Save Hundreds on Car Insurance This Year

Sure, there are a number of wacky tactics you can try that might inch down your rate. But instead of etching your VIN into your window to save a few dollars, why not call in the big guns?

Here are two simple steps that could save you hundreds on car insurance this year.

1. Quickly Compare and Find Better Rates

When’s the last time you checked out other car insurance rates?

It’s easy to settle with what you’ve got (because who wants to go through the process of switching providers?), but you might be paying way too much right now.

The Zebra, an online car insurance search engine that offers “insurance in black and white,” compares your options from 204 providers in less than 60 seconds.

Head over to The Zebra’s search platform. Enter your car’s year, make and model, and your ZIP code. Continue on to answer questions about your driving habits, your car and your life.

If you find a quote and policy that looks better than what you’ve got, you can seamlessly switch providers right within The Zebra.

We chatted with Artie Januario who’s saving $360 a year — all because he took a few minutes to compare rates.

2. Switch to a Pay-per-Mile Insurance Provider

If you don’t drive a whole lot, here’s another strategy to pay less for car insurance: An insurer called Metromile lets you pay based on the amount of miles you drive per day.

It makes sense: If you aren’t spending as much time in the driver’s seat, you shouldn’t have to pay as much. For example, if you only drive 5,000 miles per year, you could save $611, according to Metromile’s calculations.

Metromile is ideal for people who drive less than 30 miles a day, or about 200 miles a week.

A few things to keep in mind:

  • Your car must be a 1996 or newer to qualify.
  • After signing up, the company will mail you a free device that plugs into your car and tracks mileage. (That’s how it saves you money!)

Rates start at $29 a month. Start by snagging a free quote.

The Bottom Line With Car Insurance These Days?

Although rates continue to increase, there are more and more ways to find big-time savings, so don’t give up just yet.

Carson Kohler (carson@thepennyhoarder.com) is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.

The Penny Hoarder Promise: We provide accurate, reliable information. Here’s why you can trust us and how we make money.



source The Penny Hoarder http://bit.ly/2N4BQTb

How Can I Work From Home, When I Don’t Have a College Degree?

Today we're tackling a question from a reader, about working from home without a college degree. Read on to see what advice I have for this single mom. Dear Holly, I have been following your site, and I like it very much. However, it seems that most, if not all, of the women who decide […]

The post How Can I Work From Home, When I Don’t Have a College Degree? appeared first on The Work at Home Woman.



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First 50 Funds Interview: Jupiter Strategic Bond's Ariel Bezalel

Jupiter Strategic Bond's Ariel Bezalel

Moneywise’s Edmund Greaves meets fund manager Ariel Bezalel to get the lowdown on Jupiter Strategic Bond, a member of the Moneywise First 50 Funds

What is the Jupiter Strategic Bond fund?

It is a ‘go-anywhere’ bond fund that seeks to invest in the best opportunities globally, across a range of fixed-interest securities [debt issued by companies to raise money].

We spend a lot of time looking at the macro-economic picture. We’re always monitoring how the global economy evolves. That has a big bearing in terms of risk in the portfolio. But there is an intensive bottom-up approach too. Pretty much every day we meet companies from all over the world. We’re active in European and US corporates [companies], and emerging markets.

Every year, we try to outperform our peer group in the unconstrained bond space. That’s ultimately what we want to achieve in the fund.

How do you identify bonds to invest in?

Our standard way of thinking, and what I always ask the analysts, is does this company need leverage [debt], does it generate free cash flow to pay down debt?

It’s looking at the viability of the business model. To use a Warren Buffet term, is there a ‘moat’ around the business? Does it have an edge or unique selling point?

When looking at developed market government bonds, it is about taking a view on interest rates. How do we see the interest rate picture evolving? Do you think that the economic picture is deteriorating?

Typically, if we think that the economic picture is deteriorating the content of AAA-rated government bonds in the fund increases.

What’s been your recent investment strategy?

We have reduced our corporate exposure and boosted our exposure over the course of the past 12 months to US Treasuries and Australian government bonds.

Australia is a country that hasn’t seen a recession for almost 30 years. We believe that the luck of the Aussies is now running out, driven primarily by the downturn in the housing market. If housing goes, the economy goes.

The optimistic outlook in 2018 for the Australian economy was complacent in our opinion. We aggressively bought Australian government bonds, and yields have collapsed over the course of 2018 and we still think they could go down more.

We also think America has had its best days. We think the impetus from tax cuts is in the middle of fading away.

We think the yield curve continues to flatten out in the US and is perhaps in danger of inverting later this year, signalling a recession is going to happen in the not-too-distant future.

How often do you buy and sell bonds?

Our trading volumes have come down a lot because we’ve been preparing the fund for a challenging outlook.

For the past few months, where we have had rallies (which we classify as bear market rallies), we have used them to reduce risk further by going through the portfolio to see which names we are confident with, using any rallies in the corporate bond market to reduce risk even further.

What’s been your best investment decision?

Funnily enough, the Australian bond position is something that we latched on to when yields were above 6% and today’s yields are hovering a bit above 2% so that has been a fabulous trade for the fund.

In the past decade, there has been ageing demographics in much of the developed world. There are poor demographics in some of the larger emerging markets like China too, with a shrinking workforce and ageing population.

The other big trade in the fund in the past decade has been European banks, which have been a big driver performance. We’ve been very bullish [confident] on the UK banks too.

And the worst?

We really pride ourselves on risk management. There have been a few poor credit calls, but nothing that has dramatically impacted the fund.

“There have been a few poor credit calls, but nothing that dramatic”

What’s the first thing you (personally) invested in?

For many years, I’ve held on to gold, as a kind of hedge. As well as owning a lot of my own fund (it’s always good for the chef to taste his own cooking), personally I own a lot of gold-mining ETFs (Exchange-Traded Funds).

I don’t think unconventional policy making will go away any time soon. There is an ongoing risk that central banks will have to keep rates very low for a very long time. I don’t think we will see the end of quantitative easing or other forms of money printing.

With that in mind, some hedge [protection] is needed. Gold should outperform most currencies over the long term.

What’s your top tip for a beginner investor?

Right now it is important to be diversified. We are facing a very uncertain climate. Investors need to take more of a conservative approach. Asset prices across the board are somewhat inflated.

This has been one of the longest bull markets [where share prices rise] and economic cycles in history. I would be cautious and inclined to take a more defensive approach.

Cash, as ridiculous as it sounds, is not a bad thing to own right now. If you plan to have some equity market exposure [buying shares] or credit exposure [buying debt], make sure you are at the more cautious end of the spectrum.

Jupiter Strategic Bond Key Stats:

Launched: 2008
Fund size: £3.6 billion
Ongoing charge (OCF): 0.73%
Yield: 3.8%
Source: Jupiter Asset Management, December 2018

The manager behind the fund

Ariel Bezalel started his career at Jupiter and has been a member of the fixed-income team since 1998 and a fund manager since 2000. He is currently head of strategy, fixed income and manages the Jupiter Strategic Bond Fund and the Jupiter Dynamic Bond fund.

Ariel has a degree in Economics from Middlesex University.

Five year discrete performance of Jupiter Strategic Bond (%)          
Year 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Jupiter Strategic Bond 3.8 0.6 6.9 3.7 -1.7
Benchmark (i) 6.1 -0.2 7.3 5.3 -2.5

Index: IA Sterling Strategic Bond, Source: FE Trustnet January 2019

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Check out the fees to find your Sipp platform

Check out the fees to find your Sipp platform

Cost is an important issue for investors managing their investments through a Sipp, a market that has grown dramatically since drawdown has become the retirement income vehicle of choice.

The subject of costs and charges also featured prominently when the City regulator published the outcome of its year-long study of the platform market in 2018. The Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) found that charges and range of investments were the most important factors for DIY investors, while lower charges were identified as the main motivation for switching platforms.

So how can investors ensure they are getting the best deal for their retirement pot? As it stands, too few are shopping around. The FCA’s research found that large numbers of non-advised investors simply settled for the first platform they looked at.

There are compelling reasons to compare the different options available, particularly when it comes to drawdown and the charges you pay. After all, if your Sipp will be funding 20 or even 30 years of retirement, high charges will take a big chunk out of your savings and, in some cases, increase the risk of running out of money before you die.

To help you through the maze, we asked The Lang Cat, a financial services consultancy, to produce comparison tables that make it easier to assess the costs at different levels of investment.

The tables below show Sipp charging data for 11 leading direct-to-consumer (D2C) platforms, with a ‘heat map’ that makes it easier to identify the lowest- and highest-charging platforms. The figures in green are the least expensive, with the shade becoming redder as the pounds add up. The colours are based on comparison with the other platforms in the table, not with the wider market.

Most investors will have at least £50,000 in their pot, so we’ve used that as our starting point.

We look first at the basic Sipp platform charges and then at the charges when drawdown costs are factored in (with the latter shown in separate tables both in percentage terms and as pounds).

These tables include the initial and ongoing fees charged for drawdown, where applied, in a separate column. In some cases, there will also be additional charges for certain drawdown functions such as set-up and transferring out, which we’ll return to later. What they don’t include are the fees applied on fund switches, as they are a less significant feature in drawdown investing.

SIPP PLATFORM CHARGES

We will start by looking at the main administration charges on Sipps. Before we go into the detail, there is an important caveat to highlight. These figures were put together in December 2018, so they are a snapshot of the market as it was then – things can change quickly.

The last year has been relatively quiet on that front, in the direct platforms market at least. A notable exception was the acquisition of TD Direct Investing by Moneywise’s parent company, interactive investor, creating the UK’s second biggest direct platform (after Hargreaves Lansdown). interactive investor is also in the process of buying Alliance Trust Savings, though the sale is still subject to regulatory approval.

Turning to the figures, one feature that jumps out is the margin of difference between the cheapest and most expensive Sipp charges. At the £50,000 level, we go from 0.18 % (£90 a year) with Halifax Share Dealing (and iWeb, which it runs), up to 0.66% (£332) with Willis Owen.

Flat fee structures put Alliance Trust Savings and interactive investor in the ‘relatively affluent’ category too. Flat fees mean you pay a fixed amount, regardless of the size of the investment or the level of growth, whereas most platforms still charge a percentage of the invested amount.

Several platforms charge for one-offs such as taking a tax-free lump sum

So while Alliance Trust Savings tends to be more expensive for those with modest pots, it becomes increasingly cost-effective from around the £100,000 mark upwards, as our tables show. The same goes for interactive investor. The quarterly platform fee has risen from £20 to £22.50, adding £10 to the annual charge. This puts it at the more costly end for small pots but makes it great value for average and large portfolios.

The priciest platforms at the £50,000 level are among the cheapest at the £1 million end. There are exceptions, however. Hargreaves Lansdown remains a high charger across all pot sizes, although it becomes more cost-effective when drawdown functions are considered.

Remember that we are looking purely at the Sipp admin charges. The full fees you pay will be influenced by the functions you use and the charge that each platform levies for them, which we will move on to now.

Combined Sipp and drawdown charges (portfolio size as a %)

Provider Drawdown charges £50,000 £100,000 £250,000 £500,000 £1million
AJ Bell Youinvest £25+VAT one off income payment + £100+VAT a year regular income payment 0.55 0.4 0.31 0.21 0.15
Alliance Trust Savings £23.75+VAT a month (increasing from £17.50+VAT while you are still saving) 0.68 0.34 0.14 0.07 0.03
Bestinvest For portfolios <£100,000 -£100+VAT initial calculation fee + £100+VAT annual charge for income £100,000-£90+VAT initial calculation fee only 0.78 0.41 0.34 0.27 0.24
Charles Stanley Direct £150+VAT. Each benefit crystallisation event+ £50+VAT annual payroll fee 0.83 0.59 0.45 0.32 0.24
Fidelity Personal Investing No additional charges for drawdown 0.35 0.35 0.2 0.2 0.2
Halifax Share Dealing £180+VAT a year 0.54 0.36 0.14 0.07 0.04
Hargreaves Lansdown No additional charges for drawdown 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.35 0.3
interactive investor £100+VAT a year 0.66 0.33 0.13 0.07 0.03
iWeb £180+VAT a year 0.54 0.36 0.14 0.07 0.04
The Share Centre £195+VAT a year Set up for the first event is free, £225+VAT for additional flexi-access drawdown set-ups 0.81 0.5 0.2 0.1 0.05
Willis Owen £0 0.6 0.5 0.35 0.25 0.2

Notes: Includes initial and ongoing drawdown charges.Assumes investments in funds with no purchases or sales. Source: The Lang Cat, December 2018

SIPPS AND DRAWDOWN

Key to tables

Figures in green are best value, with yellow and orange figures less competitive. Figures in red are the worst rated for value.

The FCA’s review revealed that there are up to 44 charges on drawdown products and that six in 10 non-advised drawdown consumers don’t know, or are unsure, where their money is invested.

A glance at the tables shows how drawdown charges are factored into the costs paid by Sipp investors. This reflects the various events for which several platforms charge extra.

AJ Bell, for example, has a £25 fee for one-off events such as payments of income, tax-free lump sums or uncrystallised funds pension lump sums. So while it remains mid-range in relation to its peers, the extra charges will add considerably to the overall cost for some drawdown investors.

Similarly, at Charles Stanley Direct the £150 fee for each ‘benefit crystallisation event’ (taking money out of your pension) and the £50 annual payroll fee takes it from low-to-medium, in terms of pure Sipp costs, to the more expensive end of the scale for drawdown investors.

The same goes for Bestinvest. It is comfortably mid-range in terms of Sipp admin costs. However, for pots of £100,000 or below, it has a £100 initial calculation fee and a £100 annual charge for income, which see it jump to the more costly end of the scale for Sipp drawdown. At £100,000 and above, there is no annual income charge but there is a £90 initial calculation fee. Bestinvest also charges £25 both for ad hoc income payments and alterations of payment amounts or frequency (regardless of pot size).

Elsewhere, the £150 a year drawdown charge imposed by Charles Stanley Direct cements its status as one of the most expensive Sipp options across all pot sizes. But while interactive investor also levies drawdown charges (£100 a year), its flat fee structure ensures they are the cheapest options for Sipp drawdown investors investing £500,000 or more.


The impact of charges depends to some extent on the size of the pot. At the £50,000 point, there is a case for looking at platforms that don’t charge Sipp drawdown fees, such as Hargreaves Lansdown and Fidelity. At £100,000 and upwards, a flat fee operator comes into play.

The pounds table, on the right, underlines the difference in fees and therefore the potential impact on returns. Costs could reach a point where they will affect the level of income that can be drawn down and so threaten the very sustainability of the pot. That highlights the importance of reviewing what you want from drawdown, why you are with a certain platform and what you might gain from shopping around.

Sipp drawdown charges vary widely. For instance, if you have £50,000 in Sipp drawdown with Fidelity you won’t pay extra drawdown charges, just a £175 platform fee, but after offering one free withdrawal, The Share Centre would deduct £407 in fees.

At the £250,000 level, someone who chose Interactive Investor is paying £795 less in charges each year than someone using Hargreaves Lansdown. If you have £1 million or more in your Sipp and you are drawing down from it, Hargreaves Lansdown will charge you £2,670 a year more than interactive investor.

While in cost terms Hargreaves Lansdown is expensive for higher-end investors, its all-inclusive structure favours those making full use of the various drawdown functions. For example, if you are likely to chop and change funds, you will appreciate the likes of Bestinvest, Hargreaves Lansdown and Fidelity, which don’t charge for fund dealing.

Combined Sipp and drawdown charges (portfolio size in pounds)

Provider Drawdown charges £50,000 £100,000 £250,000 £500,000 £1 million
AJ Bell Youinvest £25+VAT one off income payment + £100+VAT pa regular income payment £275 £400 £775 £1,025 £1,525
Alliance Trust Savings £23.75+VAT per month (increasing from £17.50+VAT while you are still saving) £342 £342 £342 £342 £342
Bestinvest For portfolios <£100,000 -£100+VAT initial calculation fee + £100+VAT annual charge for income £100,000-£90+VAT initial calculation fee only £390 £408 £858 £1,358 £2,358
Charles Stanley Direct £150+VAT each benefit crystallisation event+ £50+VAT annual payroll fee £415 £590 £1,115 £1,615 £2,365
Fidelity Personal Investing No additional charges for drawdown £175 £350 £500 £1,000 £2,000
Halifax Share Dealing £180+VAT a year £270 £360 £360 £360 £360
Hargreaves Lansdown No additional charges for drawdown £225 £450 £1,125 £1,750 £3,000
interactive investor £100+VAT a year £330 £330 £330 £330 £330
iWeb £180+VAT a year £270 £360 £360 £360 £360
The Share Centre £195+VAT a year Set-up for the first event is free, £225+VAT for additional flexi-access drawdown set-ups £407 £503 £503 £503 £503
Willis Owen £0 £300 £500 £875 £1,250 £2,000

Notes: Includes initial and ongoing drawdown charges. Assumes investments in funds with no purchases or sales. Source: The Lang Cat, December 2018

There are hefty charges for taking your drawdown plan early or transferring platforms. Most platforms impose an exit penalty when you move. The size of that penalty could come as a shock if you don’t check beforehand, says Justin Modray, director at Candid Financial Advice.

“Some platforms, notably Fidelity, make no charge. Others can become very expensive. Hargreaves Lansdown charges £30 to close a Sipp account plus a further £25 to transfer cash and £25 per investment transferred in specie (where your money stays invested). So if you transfer an account of 20 funds in specie, it will cost you £530,” Mr Modray explains.

interactive investor decided to scrap all its exit fees at the end of 2018.

Most platforms impose an exit penalty, so check this out to avoid a shock

As The Lang Cat’s figures show, there are still only a few providers that offer drawdown functionality within the overall platform fee.

“Investors putting money in a Sipp should think about any additional drawdown costs if they are likely to withdraw their funds at some point in the near future,” says Steve Nelson, The Lang Cat’s head of research.

Our analysis of charges makes a strong case for shopping around, and that is before considering quality of service, the ability to adjust the amount of income taken and to make ad hoc withdrawals.

Sipp administration charges (%)

Provider £50,000 £100,000 £250,000 £500,000 £1 million
AJ Bell Youinvest 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.18 0.14
Alliance Trust Savings 0.5 0.25 0.1 0.05 0.03
Bestinvest 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.25 0.23
Charles Stanley Direct 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.27 0.21
Fidelity Personal Investing 0.35 0.35 0.2 0.20 0.2
Halifax Share Dealing 0.18 0.18 0.07 0.04 0.02
Hargreaves Lansdown 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.35 0.3
interactive investor 0.42 0.21 0.08 0.04 0.02
iWeb 0.18 0.18 0.07 0.04 0.02
The Share Centre 0.35 0.27 0.11 0.05 0.03
Willis Owen 0.6 0.5 0.35 0.25 0.20

Note: Heat transfer shows admin costs relative to the group. See key opposite. Source: The Lang Cat, December 2018

This feature first appeared in our sister publication, Money Observer.

Jeff Salway is a freelance journalist who writes for publications including Which? Money and The New Statesman

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18 Two-Minute Chores to Tackle Right Away

All too often we explain away our lifestyle or money messes by saying, “I just don’t have time to do [whatever would have prevented the problem].”

Here’s a simple, supremely effective tactic: Any time something can be done (or at least well-begun) in two minutes or less, then for heaven’s sake, do it!

The two-minute rule can’t fix everything in our lives. But applying it helps to keep chores and paperwork from piling up quite so high. Every time a little thing doesn’t add to the big things, our lives get better.

More to the point, a small block of time can result in ongoing dividends. For example, shopping apps can get you discounts, cash back, or even refunds if a price drops. Downloading apps like Ibotta, Earny, Shopkick, Paribus, or Cartwheel gives the chance to both save and earn money when shopping for essentials and treats alike.

Some of the tips in this article are simple productivity hacks. Others could completely change your financial life. All take just a couple of minutes at a time, and will move you further along the road to financial security.

1. Pay attention to your accounts.

Personal finance author Beverly Harzog checks her credit card accounts every morning. It takes very little time, says the U.S. News & World Report columnist, and is “a great way to catch fraud in the early stages.”

Don’t want to check every day? Let the account tell you, by setting up an alert. Ask the bank or credit union to let you know when a bill has been paid or a debit card is used, or have the credit card company flag any transactions over a certain amount.

Or over any amount, maybe: Jim Wang of WalletHacks.com has his card alert him to every. Single. Transaction. Yes, he really did set the “alert” amount to $0.00.

“You hear all these stories of people getting ripped off in $5 and $10 amounts because they don’t notice,” Wang says.

These alerts let you know immediately that something’s wrong. The sooner you report fraud, the fewer losses a card issuer has to eat – and remember, the cost of fraud gets passed along to all consumers eventually.

2. Order a free credit report.

Are you checking your credit report often enough? You can do it for free three times a year (once for each of the major credit reporting bureaus) by visiting AnnualCreditReport.com.

Requesting one report every four months can prevent small issues from becoming big ones. For example, if the report says you missed a payment but you really didn’t, write to the credit bureau and get this fixed.

Or perhaps there’s an account on there that you didn’t open. That could be a simple mistake but it could also be a sign of fraud.

3. Consider credit monitoring.

Depending on what kind you choose, a credit monitoring service will do things such as check for account applications (bank, phone, credit, utilities) made in your name, provide identity theft insurance, monitor your personal information across thousands of databases, and alert you if there are any changes to your credit report or score.

Some of these services are even free, such as Credit Karma and Credit Sesame. Personal finance writer Cameron Huddleston says one such alert clued her in to a drop in her credit score. Turns out she had a payment that she didn’t realize was late.

“I quickly fixed the problem and raised my score in the process,” says Huddleston, life and money columnist for GOBankingRates.

4. Set up automatic payments.

If you’re confident you’ll always have enough in your checking account, put your bills on auto-pay and let them take care of themselves. No more missed payments!

Not everyone can (or wants to) keep that much in checking from month to month, though. Due to the “hectic” nature of life, Lee Huffman of the Bald Thoughts blog suggests setting up payment for at least the minimum amount each month. You can still pay bills in full manually, but setting an automatic minimum means no more late fees, ever.

5. Download your bank’s mobile app.

Having your phone talk to your bank makes it easy to check account alerts wherever you are.

Some apps offer other perks, such as letting you deposit checks remotely rather than having to drive to the bank (big time-saver) or letting you make person-to-person payments (helpful for stuff like chipping in on a shared utility bill or reimbursing a friend who picked up the tab at dinner).

6. Look into student loan refinancing.

Some scholars graduate with scary amounts of debt. Figuring out whether to refinance your student loans is a complex subject, since it’s based on individual circumstances.

However, refinancing could also change your life, if only by getting you out of default and on track to a solution. To find out more about whether it’s right for you, see “Student Loan Consolidation: Pros and Cons.”

7. Set up automatic savings.

If you don’t already have an emergency fund, this is a great way to get started. It shouldn’t take more than two minutes to log into your bank or credit union account and set up a recurring monthly (or weekly) transfer into a separate emergency fund. Set it and forget it.

Or maybe you’re aiming for other kinds of savings: a “pay cash for the next car” fund, a 529 plan for your kid, or a pot of money that you’ll funnel into real estate or some other investment.

No matter what kind of savings you’re aiming for, be sure to make the amount sustainable. Specifically, don’t commit every non-budgeted penny, because life brings surprises that take you over budget.

8. Deal with the mail.

Don’t throw it onto the table or desk because “it’s mostly junk anyway.” Take two minutes to weed through the junk and toss it into the recycle bin or trash.

Otherwise, the pile of untended mail gets bigger and bigger, and you run the risk of missing something. For example, if a bill gets hidden in the stack and doesn’t get paid, you’ll incur a late fee, and maybe even a ding on your credit report. (Yes, some of us do still get bills in the mail.)

Bonus: Less clutter = less irritation. A tidy living space is very calming. And speaking of tidiness…

9. Try some ‘stealth cleaning.’

Choose a chore that can be done within two minutes. Vacuum one room. Move the laundry from the washer to the dryer. Clean a toilet. Scoop the cat’s litter box. Carry the trash out to the garbage can or dumpster.

This works best if every member of the household takes on a daily two-minute task. Even toddlers can dust, and preschoolers can empty the bathroom trash or carry dishes to the sink.

Little by little your living space will get tidier and you’ll feel better. In the best-case scenario, you’ll get in the zone and do two or three such chores.

Now: Take the money you were considering putting toward a weekly housecleaning and use it for something that advances your personal financial goals.

10. Contact your insurance agent.

Sometimes life changes or home upgrades make you eligible for discounts on your insurance policy. Keep your agent updated by e-mail or phone if, say, you’ve started to carpool (or to work from home), or if you had a home security system installed.

Even if nothing changes, get in touch with your agent to ask about other potential discounts. For example, a decent-enough price break for taking a driving course might be worth the cost of the class. Should your credit report or your teen driver’s report card improve noticeably, see if that will improve the premium.

Still not convinced you’re getting the best deal? Then you should…

11. Comparison shop for insurance.

You can fill out an online quote form in just a couple of minutes – and the results might really surprise you.

The Simple Dollar’s insurance articles can help you understand the different kinds of coverage and find a lower rate. That way you can buy exactly what you need, vs. paying for products that don’t support your financial goals.

While you’re at it…

12. Comparison shop for credit cards, too.

Some people dislike the current credit scoring system, and in a sense they’re right. Why should they be penalized for paying cash?

But it’s what we have, and a smart consumer will learn to work within it. That’s why if you don’t have a credit card, you should get one to build your credit score. It could also be invaluable in case of the unexpected; twice I’ve had to drop everything and fly thousands of miles for family emergencies, and having plastic made that much, much easier.

And if you’ve already got a credit card? Make sure you’re getting the optimum benefits. Whether you’re looking for travel rewards or cash back bonuses, The Simple Dollar’s credit card section lays it all out for you.

13. Schedule some maintenance.

Keeping on top of the manufacturer’s suggested maintenance – on everything from vehicles to home heating systems – means preventing problems versus trying to fix them. A friend drove her car for nearly 22 years that way.

Don’t neglect your own maintenance, either. For starters, see the dentist twice a year. Annual medical exams aren’t always necessary, but talk with a primary care physician about whether you should at least have lab work done plus any other tests appropriate to your age (e.g., mammogram or colonoscopy).

Not only is it cheaper to fix a health issue caught early, it can sometimes be a matter of life and death.

14. Keep an ongoing grocery list.

If you use almost all of the remaining toilet paper, cat food, toothpaste, or whatever, add it to the online shopping list right then and there.

Don’t use online shopping? Add it to the paper list stuck on the fridge.

Because you probably won’t remember that you need cilantro, cat food, or whatever else when you’re at the grocery store later – and might find yourself at a convenience store at 10 p.m., grumbling and paying a ridiculous amount of money for TP.

15. Cancel a subscription.

Are you even reading those magazines? How often do you go to the gym? Did your kid’s excitement over monthly craft kits peak at oh, about four months in? Do you really need regular deliveries of makeup, clothing, or snacks?

“Most people probably have a subscription or two that they never got around to canceling,” says Austin Grandt of the Financial Toolbelt website.

Apps like Trim and Truebill will corral your current subscriptions, making it easy to weed through what you really want. Remember: These things are generally wants, not needs. And they can cost a lot more than you might imagine.

16. Get a library card.

It might take you two minutes to find out what’s required in your area, such as “photo ID and a current utility bill,” and then another two minutes to get a librarian to set you up.

Totally worth it! Libraries buy books and movies and subscribe to magazines so you don’t have to. Depending on where you live, the library might also lend out everything from toys to art to fishing gear.

Libraries offer information on genealogy, social services, and other useful stuff, too. (The main library in my city houses the Cooperative Extension Service.) Many host a wide variety of activities, including but not limited to children’s story hours, public lectures, movie nights, clubs, resume-building workshops, tax help, and film appreciation nights.

Most – if not all – of these things will be free.

17. Set things up before bed.

Before you turn in, ready your breakfast supplies. When you stumble into the kitchen at 6:45 a.m. you’ll be greeted by your favorite mug, a batch of already brewed coffee (thanks, timer!), the box of cereal, and a bowl.

So much better than rummaging around for coffee and filter, the cereal, and a bowl and mug while also trying to unload the dishwasher you ignored yesterday.

More importantly, this helps cement the habit of eating breakfast at home, which is cheaper – and healthier! – than hitting the coffee cart or the fast-food drive-through on your way to work.

18. Set up reminders.

Cody, the young-and-hustling author of the FlyToFI blog, uses his iPhone’s “Reminders” app to avoid errors as simple as forgetting to buy milk, or as potentially life-changing as failing to change the batteries in the smoke detector.

This app, or any other reminders system, can save you money in the here-and-now, such as avoiding no-show fees for missed medical appointments. Reminders also help you stay on top of things that keep you financially healthy. It’s so easy to think, “I really should [look for a better rewards card/get scheduled auto maintenance done/buy life insurance]” – and then not do these things.

If that’s you, then set reminders. Re-set them if necessary. Sooner or later (preferably sooner) you’ll make Future You’s needs a priority.

Award-winning journalist and veteran personal finance writer Donna Freedman is the author of “Your Playbook for Tough Times: Living Large on Small Change, for the Short Term or the Long Haul” and “Your Playbook for Tough Times, Vol. 2: Needs AND Wants Edition.”

More by Donna Freedman:

The post 18 Two-Minute Chores to Tackle Right Away appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



Source The Simple Dollar http://bit.ly/2N5Pe9r

الثلاثاء، 12 فبراير 2019

This Pay-Per-Mile Car Insurance Company Offers Plans Starting at $29/Month

Just because you have a car doesn’t mean you have to jump in and rev it up every time you need a snack or have to run to the post office.

You might choose to walk, run or bike — especially if you live in an urban area. Maybe you’re a bit of a health nut, and you like to get your steps in. Or you want to reduce your carbon footprint. Maybe it’s just faster (and cheaper) than finding parking.

Whatever your reason, driving less could save you some serious money on car insurance.

If you drive less than about 2,500 miles per year, you could get car insurance for as little as $29 per month with a pay-per-mile car insurance company.

Drive Less to Pay Less for Car Insurance

If you don’t drive a lot, it’s worth checking out Metromile, an insurer that lets you pay by the mile.

If you aren’t spending much time in the driver’s seat, you shouldn’t have to pay much. For example, if you only drive 5,000 miles per year, you could save $611, according to Metromile’s calculations.

Approximately 65% of drivers overpay on car insurance to balance out those who drive a lot, according to Metromile. Its pay-per-mile system is ideal for people who drive less than 30 miles per day, or about 200 miles a week.

A few things to keep in mind:

  • Your car must be a 1996 or newer to qualify.
  • After signing up, the company will mail you a free device that plugs into your car and tracks mileage (that’s how it saves you money!).

Find out whether it’ll help you save by snagging a free quote. If you don’t drive much, this is a slam dunk. It could also be just the nudge you need to drive a little less and use your own legs a little more.

Plus, think how sweet your calves are gonna look when you do some more walking and biking. Totally worth it.

Tyler Omoth is a senior writer at The Penny Hoarder who loves soaking up the sun and finding creative ways to help others. Catch him on Twitter at @Tyomoth.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.

The Penny Hoarder Promise: We provide accurate, reliable information. Here’s why you can trust us and how we make money.



source The Penny Hoarder http://bit.ly/2WYIn6t

The 5 Best WordPress Cache Plugins – (Winter 2019 Review)

How fast is your website?

You might think your website is fast — but how fast is fast enough? You may be surprised that 47% of Internet users expect web pages to load in two seconds or less and they mean it: 40% of people will abandon websites that don’t load within three seconds.

That’s right. A second could cost you 40% of your website traffic.

To put that number into perspective, we’ll go through a hypothetical example. Let’s say your website has 1,000 unique visitors per week. You have a 5% conversion rate (which is generous, considering the average global conversion rate for an ecommerce website is 2.86%), and your average order value is $100.

This translates to $5,000 per week and $260,000 per year. Not bad, right?

But if your website took longer than 3 seconds to load, you’d lose 40% of that traffic, and you’d actually earn $104,000 less than that.

Let’s look at the other way. Imagine you have that same website: 1,000 unique visitors per week, a 5% conversion rate, but your load time is 3 seconds. If you improved your load time, you might capture 40% more visitors. If everything stayed the same, you’d suddenly have 1,667 visitors (since you’d originally had that many but 40% jumped ship when they didn’t want to wait). If they still convert at 5%, then that means you’re making an additional $3,335 in sales per week, or $173,420 a year in sales you were losing because your load time was too slow.

Depending on your volume, slow loading times could be costing you hundreds of thousands of dollars every year. Here’s something else to consider: of the 40% of visitors who abandon your site, 80% of those people won’t return.

Fortunately, there’s a way for you to speed up your website loading times. What’s the solution? Caching.

What is caching?

Let’s start with the basics. A request to your server is required each time someone visits a page on your site. The server sends those results to the user’s web browser.

On the user’s end, they see your website as the final product. Your website is complete with things like headers, menus, images, videos, blog content, and everything else that makes your site unique.

The server needs to process each request before delivering the final page to the user. Depending on the complexity of your website, sometimes this can take a long time.

That’s where caching comes into the equation. Caching stores recently viewed content, such as a web page, so server requests won’t be as in depth.

Here’s a visual representation of what caching looks like.

What Caching Looks Like

Simply put, caching means less work is required for pages to be viewed on your website. As a result, your site will load much faster.

Why do you need a WordPress caching plugin?

Without a WordPress caching plugin, requests for every element of your website need to be made to the server each time someone visits your site, even if they’ve seen the content before.

A caching plugin will:

  • Speed up your website
  • Increase the user experience
  • Reduce the strain on your server
  • Improve SEO
  • Lower your TTFB (time to first byte)

Caching plugins will generate a static HTML page of your site, which will be saved on your server. Whenever someone visits your site, the plugin will display the lighter HTML version as opposed to the heavy PHP scripts.

There are tons of caching plugins out there that claim to speed up your website. How can you possibly know which one to install? Truthfully, it’s nearly impossible to determine which plugin is the fastest. Depending on the website content, what works for one site may not work as well for another. With that said, there are definitely certain caching plugins that stand above the rest. I took the time to identify the best WordPress cache plugins for you to consider.

1. W3 Total Cache

W3 Total Cache

With more than one million active installs, W3 Total Cache is one of the most popular WordPress cache plugins on the market.

W3 Total Cache is an open-source plugin, which is completely free to use. A free install gives you access to all of the features, and you won’t be pitched any upsells after the fact.

I included this on my list of best WordPress cache plugins because it offers minifications that save bandwidth, HTTP compression, as well as feed optimization.

This plugin works for both mobile and desktop versions of your website. W3 Total Cache integrates with your website’s CDN. It’s also helpful for sites with SSL certificates, making it a top choice for ecommerce websites.

You should keep in mind that W3 Total Cache can be a bit complex to use. Even though it’s a popular choice, it may not be the best option for WordPress beginners. There are 16 pages in the settings section of this plugin, for example. However, you won’t have to manually configure all of these options. The default settings work well right out of the box. So unless you’re a developer who has lots of experience with these options, I’d recommend sticking to the defaults.

If you want that type of added customization, there is a separate setting for each type of caching. You can have different settings for things like:

  • Object caching
  • Page caching
  • Browser caching
  • Database caching

The list goes on and on. It’s tough to find this type of in-depth customization for free on other WordPress cache plugins.

2. WP Rocket

WP Rocket

WP Rocket has the simplest design of all cache plugins for WordPress. You won’t have any problems installing this plugin and getting it set up quickly. The overall simplicity of WP Rocket is what makes it one of the best WordPress cache plugins, which is why it’s great for beginners.

With that said, WP Rocket also has advanced settings that can be customized by developers or site owners who have a bit more technical knowledge.

Pricing starts at $49 per year for one website. WP Rocket also has a developer plan that’s $249 annually for unlimited sites.

I know what some of you are thinking, Why should I pay for this when there are so many free WordPress cache plugins available?

Simply put, you get what you pay for. For $50 per year, I’d rather have a plugin with an easy setup and smooth interface. Plus, WP Rocket comes with extra features that you won’t find in free cache plugins. It indexes your website on search engines to help improve your SEO ranking and all JavaScript, HTML, and CSS files get minified to boost page loading speed. Another benefit of this plugin is the “images on request” feature. This means that images only get loaded when they are visible on the screen. So if you have pages with lots of images deeper in the scroll, they won’t be loaded initially. This dramatically improves your loading time. This plugin also helps optimize your Google Fonts, which is something that’s not offered by most cache plugins I’ve used.

Overall, WP Rocket is one of the best WordPress cache plugins for beginners and experienced developers alike.

3. WP Super Cache

WP Super Cache

WP Super Cache has more than two million active installations. I’m not saying you should always follow what other people are doing, but numbers this high are usually a pretty good indication of quality.

This plugin is completely free as well. So it’s a great option if you’re hesitant about spending money on a WordPress plugin.

WP Super Cache creates static HTML files and displays them instead of heavier PHP scripts. The plugin offers three different modes of caching:

  • Simple
  • Expert
  • WP-cache caching

Most of you can get away with using simple mode. You’ll need a custom permalink, but this option is much easier to configure and doesn’t require you to change your .htaccess file. The majority of web pages will still be dynamic in simple caching mode.

As you might have guessed, expert mode is a bit more complex. Unless you’re experienced with coding and web development, I would not recommend this setting to you. It requires an Apache mod_rewrite module as well as modifications to your .htaccess file. If you don’t know what you’re doing, improper modifications of these files can be detrimental to your website.

WP-cache caching mode is used to cache content for known website visitors. This is ideal for those of you who have users who are logged in, leave comments, or need to be shown custom content.

If you don’t want to things to get too complicated, you can always just stick with simple mode, but the fact that WP Super Cache has so many other options makes it one of the best WordPress caching plugins.

4. Hyper Cache

Hyper Cache

Hyper Cache was designed with WordPress blogs in mind. It will work on every blog, without any complex configurations. Hyper Cache optimizes your bandwidth and ultimately boosts the page loading speed of your WordPress blog.

You can install Hyper Cache with ease and the process is very fast. I’d say this is one of the best WordPress cache plugins for users who are beginners and don’t want to manage tons of different cache settings. With this plugin, you can implement the “set it and forget it” mentality. So once you have it installed, you don’t have to do much of anything after the initial configuration.

You’ll notice that some of the settings may have some odd names that you’re unfamiliar with but Hyper Cache comes provides recommendations and detailed information about which should be activated and how each setting impacts your website.

Like some of the other options on our list, Hyper Cache is free. It offers CDN support and has mobile-friendly caching as well. It’s a great tool to have for those of you who have blogs with lots of comments.

Something that I found interesting about Hyper Cache is the way that this plugin completes website backups. The cache folders aren’t included in your backups, meaning the backup files will be smaller and save you space.

While this plugin should be a top consideration for WordPress bloggers, I wouldn’t recommend it for more complex sites, such as ecommerce platforms. If you fall into that category, you’d be better off with a more advanced plugin from this list.

5. Comet Cache

Comet Cache

Comet Cache has a quick and easy installation process. Once installed, you’ll find that the navigation on the dashboard is extremely user friendly.

I like this plugin because it’s so informative. You’ll find tons of resources that will tell you everything there is to know about caching. This will help you configure the settings to optimize the performance of your own WordPress site.

You’ll have plenty of different options for caching with Comet Cache:

  • Pages
  • Posts
  • Tags
  • Categories

If you’re looking for simple customization, this plugin is definitely one that you should consider. The ability to cache users who are logged in makes Comet Cache a top option for membership websites.

Comet Cache has both free and paid versions. Most of you can probably get away with the free WordPress plugin, but the paid upgrades offer better features. If you upgrade your plugin, you’ll have the option for automatic and intelligent cache clearing. Basically, this feature allows you to configure all of your settings from the beginning, and then have a “hands-free” approach moving forward.

Conclusion

Installing a WordPress cache plugin will boost your website speed and improve the user experience. Now that we’ve established why caching plugins are important, the question becomes, Which is the best WordPress cache plugin?

It depends what you’re looking for. Some plugins are designed for ecommerce websites, while others are intended for WordPress blogs. Some cache plugins are made for beginners, while others have more complex settings for advanced developers.

Do you want a free WordPress cache plugin? Or are you looking for a paid version?

Based on all of this information, I narrowed down my list to the top five options to consider. There is something for everyone on this list, based on the type of website you have, your technical experience, and the type of settings you want to apply. Use this guide as a reference to help you find the best WordPress cache plugin for your website.



Source Quick Sprout http://bit.ly/2RXdUlx

Balancing Financial Success and Meaningful Life Experiences

Megan writes in with a great question:

It seems to me that working toward financial success by spending significantly less than you earn is directly opposed toward having a life full of meaningful experiences. For most Americans spending 30-40% less than you earn puts you in a hand-to-mouth existence, cutting off opportunities for things like travel. How do you square those two things?

This is a really important topic, one that I briefly addressed a long time ago but one that I think deserves a much more thorough discussion.

The first thing that we need to look at is what exactly constitutes a meaningful life experience? I don’t think there is a universal answer to that question. However, I will share my own definition: a meaningful life experience is a life experience that changes or strongly reaffirms your perspective on the world and your place in it.

Because that definition is so focused on the self, it’s fairly hard to definitively say that one particular experience is “meaningful” and another is not, because what is “meaningful” is entirely connected to the person having that experience. What is meaningful for me is not necessarily meaningful for you, and vice versa. It is important to keep this in mind, because later in this article, when I’m discussing specific meaningful life experiences, I can really only rely on (a) what’s meaningful for me and (b) what’s said to be meaningful by lots of other people. That does not necessarily guarantee that such experiences will be meaningful for you, or vice versa.

The Price Spectrum of Meaningful Activities

Let’s say you sit down and make a list of the most meaningful and memorable experiences of the last month, the last year, and of your whole life. Just make a list of them. Which experiences in your life have been truly profound and meaningful for you?

I could make a pretty nice list. Off the top of my head, mine would include the following several items:

+ You might think I’d write about my wedding, but it was actually part of my honeymoon with my wife that felt incredibly memorable to me. We were on a train and she was sitting next to me with her back resting on me reading a book while I was looking out the window at the English countryside and I had this realization that we were now a married couple.

+ About three days after we brought our son home from the hospital, he fell asleep on my chest on our couch and I fell asleep there, too. He slept for almost six hours straight, which was the longest period of time he’d slept thus far. When he started to stir, it woke me up, and I looked at him with my sleepy eyes. His mouth was moving as though he was hungry, but he wasn’t upset yet. Rather, he seemed to really look at me for the first time. That was the moment that parenthood really clicked into place for me.

+ We were on a family hike on a long trail at Yellowstone that led into some backcountry terrain that was littered with small hot springs. It was a really cold day, but because we were in this tight little area with so much spring activity, it was almost warm there. It was so far back on the trails that it seemed like no one else was around, so we all sat down and took off our backpacks and our coats and watched the springs and mud holes bubble around us. My children had been arguing some earlier in the day but they suddenly seemed to really appreciate each other as they sat next to each other in a huddle and just looked around, and my wife grabbed my hand, and everything just felt good.

+ The first time I had a really meaningful meditation session, a few years ago. I often lose track of time when meditating and so I set a timer if I’ve got any other commitments, but this day I just sat down without a timer. About twenty five minutes in, probably my longest meditation session I’d ever done to that point, I had a really profound experience. It felt like I simultaneously noticed everything in the room at the same time, as though I felt connected to everything. This was a hugely profound and memorable experience for me.

+ I was standing in the Art Institute of Chicago looking at the Vincent van Gogh painting The Bedroom / Bedroom at Arles. It’s one of my favorite paintings and I just stood there enjoying it deeply, kind of lost in my own thought. After a bit, my daughter came up beside me and quietly said, “That painting looks real and not real at the same time.” I said, “I know,” and we stood there staring at it for a while longer.

I could go on and on naming these kinds of things, but you get the idea.

The thing is, I can put each of these experiences on a spectrum in terms of cost.

The meditation moment was absolutely free. The moment with my son was essentially free. The hike in Yellowstone was relatively inexpensive, as was the stop at the Art Institute of Chicago (we have family and friends in Chicago and visit them somewhat regularly). The only truly expensive moment on that list was the moment during the train ride in England.

The lesson is this: a lot of the truly impactful experiences in my life didn’t really cost that much. Yes, some did, but many others came without a stiff price tag attached.

If I were to focus solely on inexpensive life experiences, I would really only cut out one of those five experiences. The other ones could be recreated fairly closely for a small amount of money; two of them would have a small cost and the other two would basically be free.

To further test this idea, I made a list of fifty meaningful experiences in my life. I won’t bore you with that full list, but I entered them all in a spreadsheet and then estimated the cost to me personally to recreate each one of them as close as I possibly could (some of them are impossible, so I just did my best). 41 out of 50 of those experiences could be recreated for less than $200. 27 out of 50 of those experiences could be recreated for less than $10.

What’s the lesson here? You don’t have to spend a lot of money to have a lot of meaningful life experiences. When I made a list of fifty meaningful life experiences from my own life, more than half of them were essentially free, and another 14 weren’t quite free but could be recreated for less than $200. If I cut out all of the expensive meaningful life experiences I’ve had, I’d lose less than 20% of them.

Living an inexpensive lifestyle does not mean cutting out meaningful life experiences, at least not for me. My life has been chock full of meaningful experiences and a frugal lifestyle doesn’t choke them off in the least.

Trimming the Expensive Life Experiences

The next thing I ask myself, however, is what was the truly meaningful element of each experience. With the Yellowstone hike, it was the moment with my family where we had all been exercising together and spending time together. With the moment holding my son, it was simply father-son bonding. At the Art Institute, it was father-daughter bonding mixed with art appreciation. Even with the train ride, it was a moment of bonding with my wife.

It turns out that most of the expensive experiences that really impacted me could have happened in a different context. For example, I likely would have had some sort of epiphany about my wife regardless of whether we were on a train in England or not; we could have had a honeymoon almost anywhere that we hadn’t been before and I would have had a similar moment.

This isn’t to say that travel or high-priced experiences aren’t worthwhile; they are. They’re just not a guarantee of a meaningful life experience, and quite often the meaningful life experiences you have through those events can be found elsewhere.

Thus, I don’t think you have to have an endless string of expensive events in your life in order to have a lot of meaningful experiences. Rather, I’ve found that most of the meaningful experiences in my life are actually payoffs in a way; they often come as the result of some sort of sustained effort.

Let me dig into what I mean by that.

The Garden of Life: Frequent Sources of My Own Meaningful Life Experiences

Looking back across my list of fifty meaningful life experiences, I’ve noticed that there were a number of consistent threads throughout those experiences. I view those elements as being “spiritual gardens” of a sort, as they are life elements that can be cultivated over time and provide consistent meaningful experiences where that cultivation really pays off.

In other words, I’ve found that the vast majority of meaningful experiences in my life were capstones on top of a large investment of time and energy and emotion rather than an investment of money. I like the garden analogy because the blooms of a beautiful garden only occur when you’ve spent a lot of time out there with them and they mean more if you’ve had your hands in the soil and pulled out the weeds and added the fertilizer yourself.

If you cultivate some “gardens” in your life, they’ll consistently provide you with happiness and with a steady drip of meaningful experiences.

Here are the nine “gardens” I really noticed in my life as strong sources of meaningful experiences. There are many possible “gardens” that people might cultivate in their lives; these are just sources of meaningful experiences from my own life. I often find that deeply meaningful experiences come when these gardens overlap in my life. It is strongly worth noting that cultivating these “gardens” is much more of an investment of time, energy, and emotion rather than money.

Strong relationships with other people The strong relationships I have with my parents, my wife, my children, and a few key friends have been a constant source of meaningful experiences in my life. Most of the deeply meaningful experiences in my life have involved at least one person with whom I’ve cultivated a strong relationship with. Sometimes the key experiences come from the process of relationship building; at other times, they come from sharing an experience with that person.

Reading and learning For me, meaningful experiences often come from reading and learning new ideas. Understanding something new (or in a new way) or being absorbed into a story by a skillful writer is often the source of deeply meaningful experiences for me.

Introspection has consistently provided me with deep, meaningful life experiences. I noted earlier that one of my first powerful meditation experiences was a truly meaningful experience in my life; I’ve also found them in journaling and in other introspective activities where I gain some greater understanding of myself.

Exploring nature I tend to have meaningful experiences when I’m outdoors and in a natural environment. A lot of my most meaningful experiences occurred in forests and national parks and state parks, hiking in the backcountry or walking along an interesting trail.

Exploring art A surprising number of my meaningful life experiences have come from visiting art museums and art installations. I would not have expected this, actually, but when I made my list of “fifty memorable things,” art popped up surprisingly often.

Trying new things I’ve found that simply trying new things often becomes a source of a memorable experience, particularly when I’m doing it with someone I have a strong relationship with or when that experience draws on skills that I already have.

Visiting new places, though they don’t have to be far flung Memorable experiences often occur in my life when I’m in a new place where I don’t have an inherent familiarity with the location and there’s something new around every bend. Having said that, this does not inherently require extensive travel; I’ve had meaningful experiences in small towns in Iowa that I’ve never visited before. It’s simply the newness of the place to me.

Intense personal challenge (flow state) Whenever I take on an intense personal challenge, something that really draws on my physical and mental abilities and forces me to perform to the maximum of my abilities and thus draws my focus so strongly that I lose track of time and place (this is often called “flow”). I find that, while those sessions themselves aren’t memorable, that feeling afterwards, where I feel calm and content and really happy with what I’ve done, is often very memorable, particularly when I’ve done something quite big over a lot of “flow” sessions. I’ve felt it after intense workouts, after really productive writing sessions, and so on.

Charitable work This is something of a “meta” mix of focused effort, new experiences, and spending time with people I care about, but I find that charitable work popped up regularly on my list of meaningful life experiences. I think it’s just something I’ve done a lot because it’s a great mix of elements that are otherwise meaningful to me.

Meaningful Life Experiences and Money

In the end, for me personally, I don’t need to spend a lot of money to have a ton of meaningful and profound life experiences. I can find them in my own home or in my own neighborhood with regularity, or with short distance travel from my home.

While there are meaningful experiences to be found in things like travel and expensive experiences near your home, they don’t need to be a frequently repeated source of meaningful experiences in your life. Rather, meaningful experiences can be found and cultivated by investing time and love and energy into things, not just money.

In the end, I agree wholeheartedly with the idea that meaningful experiences are often the result of an investment, but that investment does not have to be an investment of money. If you’re willing to invest other resources in your life into “gardens” that will eventually grow into sources of meaningful experiences, then you can have a deeply fulfilling life full of meaningful experiences without frequently spending money trying to seek out those experiences.

Use your money instead to build and secure those “gardens” that produce meaningful life experiences. Eliminate debt. Build an emergency fund. Start building toward financial independence. Those things will lower the stress of your life and likely make it much easier to enjoy meaningful life experiences while also building toward the big dreams that you have in a sustainable way.

Good luck!

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