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الاثنين، 27 مايو 2019

Reverse the Way You Budget by Paying Yourself First

Many people approach budgeting in this fashion: Pay bills, spend a little, and any money that’s left goes in savings.

But those leftover crumbs aren’t often enough. Not prioritizing saving may be the reason nearly a quarter (23%) of Americans don’t have any money in savings, according to a recent financial literacy survey conducted by The Penny Hoarder. Of those surveyed, about 40% reported having less than $1,000 saved up.

One way to save more for the future is to prioritize saving over everything else when creating your budget. Some refer to this approach as reverse budgeting. Others call it the “pay yourself first” strategy. However you think of it, focusing on saving first can pull you from the rut of not saving at all.

Mark Charnet, founder and CEO of American Prosperity Group in Pompton Plains, New Jersey, suggests saving about 10% of your net income — the money you receive after taxes, healthcare premiums and 401(k) contributions are taken out — each time you get paid.

If you can’t afford to put away 10%, start smaller. The bills never stop, and it’s not like you can tell your credit card company you can’t pay this month because you’re working on your emergency fund. We get it.

How you divvy up your savings depends on your individual needs, but Charnet said you should focus on saving for emergencies, retirement and big upcoming purchases, like a down payment on a house. And yes, that’s retirement savings in addition to those 401(k) contributions that are automatically deducted from your paycheck.

If you need to buy a car in the near future, divert a larger amount of cash toward that goal. If you’re aggressively saving for an early retirement, funnel money to max out your individual retirement account. Charnet said once you’ve built up an emergency fund with six months worth of income, you can let that money sit and focus on the other priorities.

Automating saving can help you set aside money without having to think about it. Adjust your direct deposit at work so a percentage of your check automatically goes to savings. Or schedule automatic transfers from your checking account right after you’re paid.

If you’re unsure of the best way to save money for the future, Charnet recommends talking to a financial adviser.

“[Those just starting to save] should not feel embarrassed or make the assumption that [they’re] too small of a fish for a financial adviser,” he said. “That is absolutely not true.”

After your savings are deducted from your income, you can focus your budget on paying bills, covering necessary expenses and discretionary spending.

You may find you have less money for extras — like entertainment or eating out — but if you pay yourself first you’ll be in a better financial situation to face the future, instead of scrambling to come up with money when you truly need it.

Nicole Dow is a senior writer at The Penny Hoarder.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



source The Penny Hoarder http://bit.ly/2wppGgg

Questions About Car Seats, Leftovers, Medical Insurance, Budget Brands, and More!

What’s inside? Here are the questions answered in today’s reader mailbag, boiled down to summaries of five or fewer words. Click on the number to jump straight down to the question.
1. Early or late retirement contributions?
2. Purchases for infrequent use
3. Used car seats?
4. Excessive leftovers
5. Friends want me to spend
6. Value of “one bag” living
7. Buying a house on $35K
8. How to avoid drive-thrus
9. Medical insurance difficulties
10. Budget brands?
11. Starting career advice
12. Thoughts on taekwondo

One of the most enjoyable parts of writing this mailbag column is the wide variety of comments and questions I get from readers. I usually try to keep the stuff I choose for the mailbag at least somewhat within the realm of personal finance, maybe slipping in one or two questions or comments a week that aren’t related to the topic, but I get quite a lot of great stuff from readers that covers completely different topics that I just can’t reasonably fit into the mailbag.

For example, just in the last week or two, I’ve received the following notes from readers:

– A reader wrote in to talk about the joys of playing Magic: the Gathering with her son and how they were building Commander decks together.

– A reader wrote in to encourage me to pick up some of the writings of the philosopher Byung-Chul Han, particularly his essays Psychopolitics and The Scent of Time (which I’m currently reading).

– A reader has been trying to get me to debate him concerning a number of hot button political issues.

– A reader has been writing to me consistently for weeks asking for step-by-step help in getting a batch of homemade kombucha to work.

– A reader invited me to his dynasty fantasy football league.

That’s just over the last several days. Honestly, I love this kind of thing, because it represents human connection. There’s a sharing of ideas and interests and a sharing of concern behind all of it that goes way past merely writing about financial issues, and it means a lot to me, even if it’s not fodder for the mailbag.

Speaking of the mailbag, here are this week’s questions.

Q1: Early or late retirement contributions?

Is it better to contribute to a Roth IRA early in the year or as late as possible? I have money set aside for my 2019 Roth contribution but I don’t know if I should do it now or wait.
– Brian

Unless there’s some specific reason that’s unique to your situation that points to waiting, you should put those savings in there as soon as possible. The longer the money is invested, the more time you have for compound interest to work in your favor.

Having said that, investment markets are unpredictable. There’s always a chance that right after you put your money in, the markets dip. Remember that this could happen no matter when you put your money in there. You could put your money in now and immediately see a dip, or you could wait until next February to put it in and immediately see a dip.

The difference is that, on average, it’s much more likely that the investment you’re putting your money into will go up in value over that period. If you wait, it’s very likely that you’re going to miss out on growth.

Put your retirement money away in retirement accounts as soon as you can. Don’t sit around holding them, because you’re usually doing nothing more than missing out on growth if you do that.

Q2: Purchases for infrequent use

I’m considering purchasing a pair of bowling shoes. I only bowl once or twice a year, but it seems like it’s a wise investment since I could get a pair of perfectly good bowling shoes for around $25 instead of paying $3 or so each time to rent them. How do you view rarely used purchases like this that, while adding to the “stuff” you own, will eventually pay for themselves?
– Adam

My philosophy on purchases like these is similar to yours. I try to look at the total cost of ownership of the item over an extended but still reasonable period of time, like five years, and I figure out which is going to cost less. I also consider how frequently I’ll actually use the item, and it basically has to be annually at the very least and preferably much more frequent than that. That type of thinking requires full honesty to be valuable.

So, in your situation, is it cheaper to rent shoes for $3 a pop twice a year for five years or buy a pair of shoes for $25 once? Well, the cost for rental over that period is $30, so I’d probably swing toward buying a pair, assuming that I’m bowling twice a year. If you assume that it’s actually going to be much less than twice a year, you’re going to be better off renting.

I usually use a five year measure for calculations like this, because I figure it’s pretty hard to predict accurately what my life will be like beyond that time threshold and it’s also probably a reasonable guess as to the wear and tear that an item can take. Usually, with a five year calculation, it’s obvious whether it’s a good move or not.

Again, in this situation, those bowling shoes aren’t going to be worn out after ten wears, so it’s likely you will be able to continue wearing them at that point or they’ll have some minor secondhand value. This pushes the pendulum even more toward buying them.

Q3: Used car seats?

I am expecting in November. My husband and I are starting to pick up baby items from FB Marketplace and Craigslist. Whenever a carseat is listed on Marketplace someone always comments that you shouldn’t buy used carseats because they’re not safe. How are used carseats not safe?
– Amy

A carseat is one of the few baby options I wouldn’t buy used. The reason is simple: a big part of what’s protecting that baby when they’re in the carseat is plastic, and you don’t know how that plastic has been treated. There’s some chance that the plastic has become brittle and could easily crack or break in a severe impact, just when you need it the most.

This can happen, for example, if a carseat has been left in the sun too much over the course of years. It’s not an issue of negligence – it’s an issue of you not knowing the history of that carseat. It may have had years of sunlight exposure, rendering the protection that it offers your child much weaker.

Most baby items are fine to buy used – clothes and baby monitors and things like that. Those aren’t things that will cause calamity if they fail and it’s usually obvious if they’re doing their job or not.

A car seat, though, is something you should invest in. 99.9% of the time, it won’t matter, but 0.1% of the time, it matters more than anything else and you’ll never, ever want to skimp on that situation.

Q4: Excessive leftovers

On any given night we will have 2-7 people at our house for dinner. By default we cook for 7 but that means that many nights we have a ton of leftovers. We eat leftovers for lunch every day but they still get tossed a lot. We can’t give them to the food pantry either. Ideas?
– Andy

My first suggestion would be to simply have a “leftover buffet” night for dinner twice a week or so. On, say, Wednesdays and Saturdays, just pull out all leftovers, put them on the table, and let people assemble their own plates of leftovers and heat them up (or heat up the hot items before putting them on the buffet). That way, the leftovers get consumed directly and you have a “free” dinner.

Another suggestion is to frequently make meals and side dishes that are easy to “remix” into another meal if you have a low turnout. For example, if you make a bunch of spaghetti, you can save it for two nights and then mix in a few additional spices, put it in a greased 9″ by 13″ pan, put a couple cups of mozzarella and provolone shredded cheese on top, and bake it for 30-45 minutes, covered for the first half, to make a nice spaghetti bake. We also often have plain vegetables as a side dish and save the leftovers to make quick soups later on, for example.

A final suggestion is that on nights where you have a low turnout, simply prep leftover plates for the next night and have the same thing for dinner again, or prepare a different dinner the next night for just the two who ate the night before.

I don’t think you need to feel obligated to have a fresh meal on the table for whoever happens to show up each night.

Q5: Friends want me to spend

I’m 23 and got a nice job out of college paying $45K per year. Several of my friends from college are in the same area and have jobs as well so it’s fun to hang out with them, but it feels like they want to blow their income as fast as possible. They go out drinking and to clubs constantly, upgrade their phones all the time, ride around in Ubers when they have cars, and throw money at stupid stuff. I want to get rid of my student loan debt and start saving for a house and I’m already contributing to retirement so I can get out of this as young as possible. It’s not like I’m avoiding fun but there’s a ton of stuff to do that doesn’t cost $50 or $100 for an evening. When I suggest anything else other than clubs or an expensive restaurant, I get ignored. Do you have any suggestions?
– Amy

Find new friends? I mean, that sounds fairly cold, but it sounds like your values are diverging from the values that your friends hold, or perhaps they were always divergent and the income just exposed it.

While I don’t mind being acquaintances with people with drastically different lifestyles than my own, I have found it’s far more pleasant and easier to have close friends who have similar values and lifestyles to my own. That way, I’m not pushed to overspend constantly just to spend time with my friends. I have been in situations where it felt like I had to pay some kind of admission fee (in the form of going out when I didn’t want to) just to hang out with a friend and if I wasn’t willing to do that, that person wouldn’t hang out with me. That just isn’t worth it.

I’d suggest digging into activities that you feel internally interested in doing. Find groups in your community that match up well with that by using things like Meetup and there you’ll find people who are also interested in what you happen to be internally interested in. Get involved in those groups. You’ll find it’s not too hard to build friendships that way.

Q6: Value of “one bag” living

I found your post on “one bag” living to be interesting but not practical. It’s not like more than maybe 0.001% of your readers will actually ever do it. What is the practical value of such an article?
– Ollie

The practical value of it is that it really shows you how few items you actually need to have a happy and comfortable life, and when you realize that, you begin to realize how much extra unnecessary stuff you have and how much that stuff is costing you, both in terms of the stuff itself and the space you’re paying for to store all of that stuff.

Let’s say, for example, that you decided to try it for a month. You packed a big duffel bag full of stuff and aimed to live solely out of that bag for that month. During the month, almost everything you use comes out of that bag – other than maybe a few kitchen items, you really don’t use anything else in your home.

At the end of the month, you’re left asking yourself what the point of all of that other stuff is. Why have any of it if you’re able to have a great life without touching it? Why have shelves full of books and DVDs you never touch? Why have a television if you have a good life not watching it? This is likely to lead you to start downsizing your possessions, recouping some money along the way, and it’s also likely to lead you to question almost all of your physical purchases.

If you keep going in that direction, you’ll find that you likely have excessive living space and can easily be satisfied with a smaller home or apartment, and if you downsize that, then you’re on the way to some serious financial improvement in your life, as you’re losing far less money to utilities, insurance, property taxes, and so on.

Q7: Buying a house on $35K

I am a single woman with a four year old child from a previous marriage; the father is not involved and avoids paying child support. We live in a small apartment in [a large city with a moderate cost of living]. I make $35K per year. My mom lives about five miles away and takes care of my son when I’m working and he’s not in preschool as she has a pension that’s enough for her to live on because my father died in the workplace. I would like to be able to afford a small house for us and get out of this apartment building before he’s too old because there’s kind of a rough culture of teenage boys here. I would like to be in a house in four years. I have no debts and am saving about $200 a month for emergencies.
– Carrie

First of all, I’d contact a lawyer and do what you can to get child support. The cost of supporting your child should not be borne solely by you and he’s legally obligated to provide financial help here even if he’s uninvolved.

Second of all, $200 a month in savings that’s also used as an emergency fund isn’t adequate to get to where you want to go in four years. I looked into your area and a small starter home is going to run you in the $300K range now and will probably be closer to $350K by the time you want to buy. 20% of $350K is $70K. If you’re saving $200 a month, you’ll get to about $10K in four years if there are no emergencies. To get to $70K in four years, you need to be saving around $1,500 a month and have no emergencies that tap that money. Considering that you’re making about $3,000 a month before taxes, that’s an extremely difficult proposition.

Thus, to make it to your target, you’re going to have to do some radical things. The first thing I would do is sit down with your mother and discuss the option of cohabitation for a few years, with you splitting up the housing costs. If she could move into your apartment or you two could move into her dwelling and it’s a tenable situation for a few years, you’ll both save a mint. If you’re paying $1,000 a month in rent and it suddenly drops to $500 a month, there’s $500 a month toward savings, and probably more than that because you’ll have lower utility bills and you can more easily share food costs.

You may find that after you buy that starter home, it may make sense to have your mother continue to live with you to keep costs manageable going forward, at least for a while.

If you can swing something like that, use a lot of smart frugal tactics like sticking with store brand items when shopping, get on that child support issue, and keep working at your career to move toward a better salary, you can make this work. Without those kinds of big changes, this probably isn’t a realistic goal.

Q8: How to avoid drive-thrus

How do you stop relying on the convenience of drive-thrus? I understand that it’s way cheaper to make meals at home but when I can just go to a drive-thru and get a quick meal and have it eaten before I even get home or eat it right when I walk in the door and there’s no cleanup because I just toss the wrappers, it’s hard to convince myself to make a big mess making a meal at home.
– Leon

There are a few good strategies for solving this problem that work well for different people. I suggest trying one for at least 30 days, see if it clicks with you or merely causes frustration, and either stick with it if it works or move on to another if it doesn’t.

First, try simply packing a meal for yourself at home before you leave in a small cooler. Make something simple that you like – a sandwich and some baby carrots and a drink or whatever. Pack the individual items in reusable containers and put them in something insulated with an ice pack to keep it cool. Take that meal with you when you go out and save it at your desk or in a work fridge until you’re ready to leave, then eat that on the way home. You can do the meal prep the night before while watching a television show and if you use reusable containers, cleanup is really just a matter of popping stuff in the dishwasher and wiping off the table (which you’d need to do anyway). If you want, you can designate Fridays as “eat out” days and keep it as a treat for yourself for getting through the week.

Another thing I strongly suggest is to simply get better at cooking at home. Cooking seems very difficult at first and even easy things like scrambled eggs feel like a giant mess and a big time and energy investment, but once you get more practiced, it stops feeling so challenging. Start by making really simple meals that you like – grilled cheese sandwiches or scrambled eggs or spaghetti.

Another strategy is to cook things in advance, make individual meals out of them in reusable containers, and keep them in the fridge. For example, you could make a huge batch of spaghetti one night and pack three or four individual meals of spaghetti with a breadstick in resealable containers in the fridge. Then, you can take them to work with you and you’ll also know that one is just waiting for you when you get home.

Yet another strategy is to use a slow cooker. Start a simple “dump meal” before you leave (a “dump meal” means you just dump several ingredients in there and turn it on low) and you’ll have a hot home-cooked meal waiting for you when you get home. Slow cookers are great for stews, chili, soups, and simple casseroles; it can also make a mean pot roast.

The goal of all of these things is to either put something in your hands directly so that you’re not tempted to stop or have something at home waiting for you so you’re not tempted to stop.

Q9: Medical insurance difficulties

I am covered by [a major medical insurer] through my workplace. A few months ago, I had a procedure done that my doctor’s office informed me would be fully covered by my insurance. They filed this with the insurance and the insurance company came back saying that the procedure wasn’t medically necessary and wouldn’t cover it, so my doctor is now billing me for it at the tune of $30K. I don’t even know where to start. Should I contact a lawyer?
– Petra

Without seeing the bills and documentation, I can’t give you full advice on what to do. However, my first step would be to document every single detail that you can recall about this entire process, including dates and what you were told by both your doctor’s office and insurance. If you have any supporting documents, such as receipts and printed information about the procedure or about the costs, that’s all valuable here.

Then, I would go through the process of appealing this claim with your insurer, providing a copy of all of that documentation. An appeal should definitely be your first action.

If you find that your appeal is denied, you should then discuss the matter with your doctor and attempt to get their bill reduced.

If you’re still finding that you’re paying an excessive amount, then I would take all of this documentation to a lawyer and get legal help. It very much sounds like you were given inaccurate guidance from a doctor’s office and a lawyer can usually help here.

Q10: Budget brands?

Are there any “budget” brands you trust for making high quality stuff? Meaning brands that are cheap in price but the quality of their stuff is good?
– Darren

The store brands at most department stores and grocery store chains fit that bill. For the vast majority of product types, the store brand is as good as most of the name brand options. They might not beat some of the really high end premium versions of those products, but the store brand is usually as good as 80% of similar items on the shelf.

For things like charging cables and basic electronics like computer mice or keyboards, I’ve found that Amazon’s “generic” brand, Amazon Basics, is really good for the price.

For many different kinds of smaller electronic items, like external batteries for charging devices on the go or headphones or things of that nature, I strongly trust Anker. If there’s an Anker option for a small electronic device, you’re probably getting great bang for the buck with it.

Those are the ones that immediately come to mind as brands that I strongly trust that consistently provide good bang for the buck across a wide variety of products.

Q11: Starting career advice

My oldest son is about to graduate from college with a degree in electrical engineering. I am collecting career advice from some people I respect to pass along to him. What advice would you give to a fresh college graduate in a technical field today?
– Robert

First of all, treat the first decade of your career as an opportunity to build skills and relationships above chasing salary. A killer resume ten years from now will be worth a lot more than earning an extra $5K or $10K right out of the gate. If one job pays a little more but feels like a dead end, while the other job pays a little less but feels like it’s overflowing with opportunities and ways to build relationships, take the latter job in the first decade of your career.

Second, if your workplace offers a 401(k) plan, take advantage of it immediately and contribute as much as you can stand. You will never regret this. Just do this and then start off with smaller take-home checks – they’ll still be a lot more than what you had in college. Pay yourself first.

Third, no matter how tough a situation is, don’t burn bridges, even if it would feel good. If you’re moving on from a position, do it as gently as possible and be as positive and flexible as you can on your way out.

Finally, eat healthy, get some exercise, get plenty of sleep, and don’t work too many hours. If you don’t do those things, you’ll be far less productive during your work time, the quality of work you produce will be lower, and you’ll have a harder time picking up new skills. If your workplace is obsessed with 80 hour workweeks, carve out as much of that 80 hours toward self care and rest that you can reasonably get away with.

Q12: Thoughts on taekwondo

I was wondering if you could share your thoughts on taekwondo from the perspective of both a parent of a student and as a participant with an eye toward cost. Is it worth it? Do your kids get value out of it? How about yourself?
– Brenda

I attend a local taekwondo school with the rest of my family. It was an activity that my two oldest children wanted to try and the family plan isn’t much more expensive than just the two of them participating, so when our family schedule lined up and our youngest was old enough, we all joined. In effect, our third family member was half price and the rest of us are effectively going for free, and the price has actually gone down as some family members have reached black belt rank (and those who haven’t are at a belt rank approaching black).

First of all, if you’re new to martial arts of any kind, it’s something you should shop around for. Any city of any size likely has a few martial arts schools; a larger city likely has some dedicated taekwondo schools with branches in various locations. Different schools offer different prices and different philosophies.

Taekwondo is a martial art that’s focused on fast, high kicking. That means that it really works hard on agility and balance. There’s also an emphasis on forms, which are sequences of kicks and other movements that are memorized and done from memory, which challenges a person’s memory while physically exerting themselves.

Our family’s interest in martial arts lies much more in the realm of “self improvement, character building, self defense, and fitness” rather than “training to fight.” There are definitely martial arts schools that are very focused on simply training to fight, preparing people for things like mixed martial arts. There’s nothing wrong with that, but it’s not what Sarah or I were looking for in a school. We wanted a school where the merit wasn’t in whether you defeat someone in a fight, but whether you’re working hard and genuinely improving yourself so that you’re better at the techniques, better in all around fitness, and better in character than you were the day before. Again, I have nothing against a school focused on fight-focused training, but it’s just not what I’m looking for or what I would direct my children toward until they’re old enough to make those kinds of choices for themselves. Perhaps someday they’ll take what they’ve learned and move in that direction, and I’m fine with that.

When my oldest son and daughter began expressing a genuine interest in taekwondo, we shopped around for local schools that offered dedicated youth programs and were focused on a self-improvement type of martial art philosophy, and we found one that we liked that had classes near us, and over time, we all joined up.

I think it has genuinely helped our children improve their ability to focus, their ability to overcome challenges, their character, and most definitely their ability to defend themselves and get out of a threatening situation. As a parent, I’m thrilled with the impact taekwondo has had on them.

As for myself, I joined because I agree in a deep philosophical way with the goals and direction of the school, as well as the fact that I was looking for a fitness program for myself and an opportunity to mutually encourage my family to be more fit. This hits all of those marks and with family rates, it’s pretty inexpensive. If you divide our session fees by five, there’s absolutely no way any of us could be in a sport or a fitness program at these rates.

If someone is interested in taekwondo or martial arts in general, I’d start by figuring out why you want to do it. What are you hoping to get out of it, or what do you want your child to get out of it? Self-discipline? Fitness? Self-defense? Character? What are the one or two things you want most for yourself or for your child that you hope martial arts can provide? Start from there and shop around at a lot of schools in your area. They’ll all have different philosophies and centers of focus – some of them will line up well with your own goals and philosophies, while others will go in a different direction (not wrong or bad, just different). Find some that match what you want, price compare them, and give one a try for a session and see if it’s right for you.

Got any questions? The best way to ask is to follow me on Facebook and ask questions directly there. I’ll attempt to answer them in a future mailbag (which, by way of full disclosure, may also get re-posted on other websites that pick up my blog). However, I do receive many, many questions per week, so I may not necessarily be able to answer yours.

The post Questions About Car Seats, Leftovers, Medical Insurance, Budget Brands, and More! appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



Source The Simple Dollar http://bit.ly/2QtiqZI

الأحد، 26 مايو 2019

Work From Home Scoring Test Papers Online

Shortly after I pressed the “pause” button on my teaching career and began staying home with our littlest one, I began to look for ways to earn money. When I started this journey, I was naturally drawn to work-at-home jobs within the field of education. A few minutes into my search, and I was amazed […]

The post Work From Home Scoring Test Papers Online appeared first on The Work at Home Woman.



Source The Work at Home Woman http://bit.ly/2VQIf7h

What You Should Be Teaching Your Kids About Budgeting

Parents, you want the best for your kids. You don’t want them stumbling through life, struggling financially and figuring everything out on their own, do you?

No!

That means talking to kids about money at a young age and teaching them how to properly manage it.

The Penny Hoarder recently conducted a survey of over 1,500 people on the topic of financial literacy and found one-third did not learn basic personal finance concepts growing up. You don’t want your kids to reach adulthood oblivious to how to earn and save money.

Among Americans who did discuss money growing up, only 17% have no savings and 18% earn less than $50,000. But among those who did not gain early financial literacy, 40% have no savings and 31% earn less than $50,000.

Children start developing financial habits at an early age, so don’t wait until high school to talk about money with your kids. If they’re already teens, that’s OK. There’s still plenty of opportunity to teach them how to earn money, spend smartly and save for the important stuff.

Earning, spending and saving are the three main components of budgeting. Here’s how to get your children to grasp those concepts.

Teach Your Kids That Money Doesn’t Grow on Trees

It doesn’t just magically come out of an ATM either. It’s important that kids understand how to earn a buck.

1. Treat Allowance as a Lesson in Having a Job.

Allowance can be a touchy subject for parents. Some don’t believe in rewarding kids for work they ought to do as members of the household. Others just don’t have the funds to give money for chores.

An allowance, however, can help children make the connection that money is given in exchange for work.

It doesn’t have to be a lot. You can start off rewarding your little ones with $1 a week for setting the table or sweeping the floor. Or you could choose to only pay your kids for chores that go above and beyond everyday household work, like mowing the lawn or washing the car.

Another way your kids can learn that working pays off is by giving them money for earning certain grades in school.

2. Encourage Entrepreneurship — or Regular Ol’ Jobs.

From lemonade stands to babysitting, there are plenty of ways kids can earn their own money. Lean into their interests and use them as a way to inspire your kids to become entrepreneurs.

Caroline and Isabel Bercaw loved using bath bombs and were just 10 and 11 years old when they decided to make and sell their own at a local art fair. Less than three years later, they were approached by Target to sell their bath bombs in its stores, and Da Bomb Bath Fizzers grew into a multi-million dollar company.

Your children don’t have to turn their entrepreneurial pursuits into million-dollar businesses. Maybe they just rake leaves for neighbors or tutor other students to earn some spending money.

Once they’re old enough to legally work in your state, your teen can find part-time or seasonal work as a way to earn an income. Retail, food service and theme parks are employers that often hire teenage workers.

3. Talk to Your Child About How Different Jobs Earn Different Pay.

Talking about salaries and income disparities can be an awkward conversation. But raising kids pretty much guarantees you’ll have to tackle an awkward conversation or two.

You’ll probably want to wait until your children are older, but talk to them about expected salary ranges, job growth and the various roles a person can hold when you discuss career ambitions. It’ll help establish an idea of the kind of lifestyle they’ll be able to afford in the future.

Of course, money isn’t everything, so don’t crush their dreams by saying they’ll starve if they pursue a career in the arts.

Pro Tip

The Bureau of Labor Statistics’ Occupational Outlook Handbook is a great resource for your teen to research average salaries and different jobs in their field of choice.

Teach Your Kids to Be Savvy Spenders

A huge part of budgeting is learning how to smartly spend. That means teaching your kids not to grab everything they like in the store.

4. Differentiate Needs From Wants.

Recognizing the difference between needs and wants is something even adults struggle with. Nevertheless, you should try to serve as a positive example and include kids in conversations about household spending.

When you’re grocery shopping, point out how buying chicken, rice and green beans is more important than getting treats like ice cream or chips. During back-to-school season, share how getting notebooks and pencils is a priority over locker decor. You might also explain why saving up for a new car for the family means you have to forgo a summer trip this year.

Another approach is to have your kids contribute a portion of their allowance for household essentials. One mom’s Facebook post went viral last year after she charged her 5-year-old for needs like rent and electricity to introduce the concept of having to pay bills.

5. Raise Deal Seekers.

Having a little money to spend might give your kids tunnel vision about buying something they want. Instead suggest ways your children can get more bang for their buck.

Point out prices in the toy aisle. Ask your child whether he’d rather get that $15 toy he noticed first or choose two similar items costing $7 each. Go over sales catalogues, and introduce the concept of couponing.

Pro Tip

Before they spend all their savings on something frivolous, ask your kids to reflect on what they had to do to earn the money. Challenge them to wait a week before buying something on impulse.

6. Let Them Make the Transactions.

Kids will make a stronger connection to exchanging money for goods and services if they’re the ones actually making the exchange.

If they want to go out for ice cream, help them count out bills and coins from their piggy bank and let them hand the money over to the cashier.

As your little ones grow, get them a wallet or purse to hold their money. Place them in charge of buying lunch at school rather than adding money to their account online.

There are even ways to include your kids in the cashless economy. Companies like FamZoo, GreenLight and BusyKid offer kid-friendly debit cards.

Some parents choose to add their teens as an authorized user of their credit cards, which establishes a credit history for them and has the potential to strengthen their credit scores.

The CARD Act of 2009 restricts consumers under 21 from applying for credit cards on their own without stable income.

If you go this route, make sure to teach your teen about the consequences of charging what you can’t afford on credit. Use parental controls for online accounts where you have credit card information stored, such as Amazon, and regularly check your credit card purchases.

7. Impart Lessons About Generosity.

Spending is not limited to buying things for yourself. It’s good practice to put money aside for giving, whether that’s donating to charity, tithing at church or buying gifts for others.

Giving teaches children to think beyond themselves and to develop a philanthropic spirit. Many money experts recommend teaching children to budget by splitting their money into three jars — one for spending, one for giving and one for saving, which we’ll discuss next.

Teach Your Kids to Save for the Future

Kids don’t want to wait for what they want. They want it now. Right now.

Help them learn to fight the instant gratification urge and save their money.

8. Make a Game of Saving.

Saving money isn’t the most exciting thing in the world, but you can liven it up for your kids (and yourself too).

Take a visual approach to tracking savings. Have your kid draw something that represents what she’s saving for — like a music note for concert tickets. Each time she saves money, have her shade in a portion of the image.

Turn saving money into a challenge by having your kids drop money into a jar and reward them when they fill it up. Or tap into sibling rivalry by having them compete with their brother or sister for bragging rights on who can save the most the quickest.

You can also create a game out of finding coupons or deals. Reward your kids with a portion of the savings they discovered.

9. Open a Savings Account for Your Kid.

Piggy banks are great savings tools for young kids, but a savings account introduces them to the banking industry.

Whether you choose to open an account at a brick-and-mortar bank, credit union or online bank, make sure to review the monthly statements with your kid. Discuss how their money can grow with interest by keeping it in the account.

Make sure to point out any account maintenance fees or limitations on withdrawals — and the consequences that come with surpassing those limitations.

10. Talk About College Early.

College is one of the most expensive costs you’ll face as a parent. (Though day care expenses can rival that.) The upside? You have about 18 years to save up.

Involving your children in discussions about saving for college helps them become aware of the magnitude of investing in a degree. It may also open up conversations about alternatives to the ultra-expensive private universities on your kid’s top school-choice list.

Some parents have their kids contribute to the cost of college. If your teen has a part-time job, he can save a percentage of his earnings in a college fund.

Pro Tip

Get other family members in on the goal of saving for college by asking them to contribute to your kid’s 529 college savings plan in lieu of gifts for holidays or birthdays.

Kid-Friendly Budgeting Resources

When you’re teaching kids how to budget, injecting fun along the way is a must.

Younger kids may enjoy dropping coins into a piggy bank or reading a book like “Curious George Saves His Pennies.” Several kids’ museums across the country have exhibits geared toward shopping or banking.

Older kids might pick up a financial lesson from board games like The Game of Life or Monopoly. This list of money-themed presents for kids make for good gift ideas all year round.

The Federal Trade Commission has various videos and online games, including this one geared to kids about how to be a smart consumer at the mall. Jackson Charitable Foundation has a series of kid-friendly music videos about money that cover concepts like earning and spending.

Getting your children involved in a finance-focused organization like Junior Achievement is another way to make learning about money interesting.

The National Endowment for Financial Education’s High School Financial Planning Program has resources for parents to talk to their teens about money.

For more advice on teaching your kids about budgeting and personal finance, check out these books:

  1. “Smart Money Smart Kids” by Dave Ramsey and Rachel Cruze
  2. “How to Make Your Kid a Money Genius (Even If You’re Not)” by Beth Kobliner
  3. “The Opposite of Spoiled” by Ron Lieber
  4. “Raising Financially Confident Kids” by Mary Hunt

Nicole Dow is a senior writer at The Penny Hoarder. She’s a parent who plans to teach her daughter all the things she didn’t learn about money growing up.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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Tips for Getting a Mortgage

Obtaining a mortgage can be one of the most stressful and exhausting parts of the homebuying process.

Since the subprime housing crisis and the market crash that kicked off in 2007, mortgage applications and reviews have been more detailed and rigorous than ever, requiring seemingly endless paperwork and extensive income verification.

There are also many variables to consider when shopping for a mortgage that can impact the success of the entire process and ultimately how much you spend — not only to obtain the mortgage, but on your home over the long run.

To help first-time homebuyers navigate all of these hurdles successfully, we asked mortgage industry experts to share their top tips for obtaining a mortgage.

1. Gather your documentation.

First things first: Given all the documentation requirements associated with the mortgage process, do yourself a favor by getting your financial paperwork in order at the outset, says Chase home lending advisor Michele Hammond.

Key items to pull together include recent pay stubs, tax returns, W-2s from your employer, and bank statements from all savings and checking accounts, as well as from any investment or retirement accounts.

You’ll also need to provide a Form 4506-T, which is an Internal Revenue Service (IRS) document used by lenders to retrieve past tax transcripts that are on file with the IRS, said Hammond.

Self-employed applicants will need to provide two years of tax returns and their most recent profit and loss statement showing revenues, costs, and expenses during a fiscal year.

2. Get your financial house in order.

In addition to merely gathering paperwork, it’s a good idea at this stage to get yourself in top financial shape so that lenders view your application more favorably, adds Hammond.

Improving your financial profile involves a variety of elements. For starters, avoid carrying excessive debt.

“Your debt-to-income ratio is an important factor that lenders consider when looking at your fitness for a loan,” Hammond explained. “Reducing debt can make your finances look more attractive.”

To assist with minimizing debt, eliminate any unnecessary monthly expenses beyond housing, Hammond continued. Use the freed-up money to pay down debt or increase your down payment for the home, both of which could put you in better shape when it’s time to apply for a loan.

Reviewing your credit score and history is another key effort. If your credit score needs improvement, try making multiple or frequent payments on a credit card during the course of a month, suggests Hammond.

“If you pay on time and consistently, your score should reflect that,” she said.

One additional suggestion from Hammond on this front: If possible, avoid changing jobs while applying for a mortgage.

“Lenders look for job stability when they evaluate your ability to repay a loan,” Hammond explained. “If you must switch jobs while applying for a mortgage, be sure your new base salary qualifies you for the same loan amount. And keep in mind that only your base earnings count toward your income until you can produce at least, two years bonus history.”

3. Shop around. And then shop some more.

Reviewing multiple lenders, or mortgage shopping, is a critical step — and it’s one that many first-time home buyers often neglect, instead taking the first lender recommendation they receive or mortgage quote obtained.

“You never want to settle on the first lender you talk with,” said Andy Harris, president of CRMS, Vantage Mortgage Group and Association of Independent Mortgage Experts. “Buyers don’t realize how different the terms are that vary from company to company – even if the loan type is a commodity, pricing is not.”

When talking with different lenders and mortgage brokers, it’s important to get quotes on the same day for an accurate comparison, Harris added.

While daily market rate changes will impact all lenders uniformly, the actual rates they offer borrowers will vary based on other factors as well.

“This is relating to their own overhead costs or other items that impact their overall pricing that they offer,” Harris continued. “So, for example, if you’re comparing two companies on the same conventional 30-year fixed loan on the same day, one might quote a fee of $2,000 at a specific rate. While at that same rate, another is offering a credit of $2,000. That would be a $4,000 direct difference in cost for the same conventional 30-year fixed loan.”

When shopping around, be sure to include a local, truly independent mortgage broker in your search, someone who’s experienced and accountable, added Harris, as such an individual can shop wholesale lenders on your behalf and work directly for you.

Matt Hackett, an operations manager of Equity Now, a direct mortgage lender, suggests applying with a minimum of three lenders, which will give buyers a true sense of the market.

“Compare them to see where you can get the best deal,” said Hackett.

4. Get preapproved, and do it early.

First-time home buyers often get caught up in the more appealing parts of the process — shopping for their dream home — and neglect to get preapproved for a home loan. But doing so early on can prevent disappointment later.

“It’s more than heartbreaking when you find the perfect home, then find out it’s outside your budget. Getting fully preapproved supports your successful experience,” said Nicole Rueth of Fairway Independent Mortgage Corporation.

“Work with a lender who will help you differentiate between your maximum qualification, determined by your income and your debts, and optimal budget. A common regret for first-time homebuyers is that they maxed out their qualification and now have a mortgage payment that limits other opportunities.”

It’s also important to keep in mind that there are various levels of pre-screening for a mortgage, noted Ryan Richardson, a licensed mortgage loan officer for Pennsylvania-based Movement Mortgage. Simply getting prequalified is the most basic step, but it’s only designed to give you a loose idea of what you can afford.

“This is a buyer verbally telling a loan officer what their income, assets, and liabilities are and oftentimes no documentation is collected to verify any of it,” explained Richardson, who says this limited review doesn’t do anyone any service.
“It sends someone shopping for a home based on good guesses,” said Richardson.

Getting preapproved, on the other hand, takes the review a step further, typically requiring the home buyer to submit pay stubs, W-2s, and bank statements. A letter of preapproval from a lender also shows sellers that you’re a serious buyer with financing in place.

“The loan officer has more solid information to determine what you can afford,” Richardson explained. “I would recommend this as a bare minimum before shopping, this avoids heartbreak further down the line when you have a more solid idea of what you can and can’t do.”

5. Rate locks: What are they, and should you get one?

As part of the mortgage shopping process, you’ll likely be getting interest rate quotes. However, keep in mind that an interest rate is not guaranteed until it’s locked in. And typically, you can only lock in or guarantee an interest rate once you’ve a signed agreement of sale that includes an agreed upon settlement date, explained Richardson.

A mortgage rate lock, however, is an agreement between a borrower and a lender that allows the borrower to lock in an interest rate for a mortgage over a specified period of time. In other words, the rate will stay consistent, even if the market changes. Lock periods range from 15 days to 45 or even 60 days, and lenders may charge a lock fee.

“Rule of thumb is the longer the mortgage company locks, or guarantees your rate, the more expensive it is going to be,” said Richardson. “For instance, a 60-day lock is going to be more expensive than a 30-day lock, because the mortgage company is guaranteeing something for a longer period of time.”

There is a downside to locks to keep in mind. If the market changes and rates decrease after you’ve locked in, you generally won’t be able to take advantage of the lower rates.

6. Know your mortgage, and your loan officer.

A home is one of the biggest purchases most people will ever make, so it’s important understand what you’re getting into.

Having a basic grasp of mortgages and all of their variables will save you money and heartache, said Jennifer Beeston, of Guaranteed Rate Mortgage.

“Read and watch videos online about the mortgage process and options. Know the difference between a fixed rate and an adjustable-rate mortgage, and what points are. All this info is online and it is free,” she said.

And one last step – research your individual loan officer.

“The actual person doing your loan is critical. Just because a company has a good name or does a lot of loans does not mean the person doing your loan is good,” said Beeston. “Look for third-party reviews of the person who is your loan officer.”

Read more: 

Mia Taylor is an award-winning journalist with more than two decades of experience. She has worked for some of the nation’s best-known news organizations, including the Atlanta Journal-Constitution and the San Diego Union-Tribune. 

The post Tips for Getting a Mortgage appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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السبت، 25 مايو 2019

How Journaling Practices Have Helped My Financial Situation

I’ve mentioned often on The Simple Dollar how journaling is a daily practice for me and has been off and on (but mostly on) since middle school in various forms. At times, it’s taken the form of simply cataloguing my day; at other times, I’ve written in response to various prompts; today, it’s completely different (and I’ll write about that in a bit). In any case, writing in my journal – simply put, getting thoughts out of my head down on paper – is something that is a daily part of my life.

Why have I kept up with it for so long? How has it helped me in any way that’s made it worth the time investment? And what does that practice look like? That’s what I want to share today.

Let’s start with the why.

The Benefits of Journaling, Financial and Otherwise

I keep up with a daily journaling practice for a lot of reasons.

First of all, it feels like a mental relief to do it because it quiets the monologue in my head. Along with meditation, it’s one of the two most effective routine things I’ve found in my life for getting the constantly chattering voice in my head to quiet down a little. That voice is constantly going over things I need to do, things I’m thinking about or worried about, my upcoming plans, some problem I’m interested in, and all kinds of other stray thoughts. That constant stream of thought is distracting. I find that dumping some of that stream of thought down on paper quiets that distracting voice pretty well, at least for a while. I’ve found that one big burst of writing in my journal at the start of the day coupled with having a pocket notebook on me at all times to jot down other stray thoughts throughout the day keeps that voice a lot quieter and a lot less distracting.

Second, I use it to work through challenging problems in my life that I’m not quite sure how to solve. When I observe something I don’t like in my life, my mind often worries on that problem without ever really coming to a good conclusion on it. I’ll think about that problem over and over, but at best my idle thoughts will come up with really half-baked solutions. When I sit down and journal and dump that problem out on paper, I find that I almost always work toward an actual good solution to the problem (or problems) in my head. By writing out the problem as I see it, I usually get some better insight into what’s really going on, and then as I write down that insight, more pop up, and eventually I lead myself to the real source of the problem and perhaps a start down the path to a good solution.

This applies very well to personal finance. For example, it was writing in my journal that really helped me piece together that something was wrong with my financial life and gradually led me to the decision to make some major changes. It has helped me figure out what things in my life were frivolous expenses and which ones were not. It has helped me to identify situations where I was spending money nonsensically as an emotional response to some other situation in my life.

Third, it’s helped me to understand complex ideas by taking a bunch of swirling bits and pieces I’ve learned recently and didn’t fully understand and combine them into something meaningful and comprehensible and useful. Many of my journal entries have originated from my thinking about something I read recently or experienced recently that I didn’t quite understand, and by simply spelling it all out piece by piece, the idea came together for me. I used to do this a lot when I was in college, but I still do it quite frequently when I’m reading something or when I’ve had a difficult interaction with someone.

For example, it was this practice that really helped me to understand investing and how index funds work and helped me decide that I should put as much of our investment money as possible into index funds. The ideas made sense on their own, but it was assembling the ideas and relating them to our own situation, which I did over a bunch of journaling sessions, that locked our retirement planning into place.

I did the same thing when we were shopping for a home. Many of my entries during the months in which we were house shopping were oriented around figuring out how the house buying process worked, how mortgages worked, and so on. This actually leads well into my next point.

Journaling has helped me come to a firm conclusion when there were a lot of options on the table. Often, decision making comes down to being able to filter through a lot of options, figure out which elements matter the most, and choose from those options based on that. Journaling has helped me with every piece of that process for many different major decisions in my life.

As I noted earlier, journaling was essential in our home buying process. I wrote down extensive thoughts on each home we visited, the relative merits and drawbacks of each, and what each would look like financially. My journaling process helped Sarah and I choose a home that we could afford that met our needs, a home we still live in.

It’s helped me decide between investment options. It’s helped me make career choices when I had several options on the table at a few points in my life. Simply writing through each of the options, figuring out what was good and bad about each one, and then coming to a clear decision not only helped me make a great decision at each of those crossroads, it also helped clear my head of constant worrying and constant thoughts on the subject.

So, how exactly do I do this? What does my journaling practice look like?

My Own Journaling Practice

I’ve used a number of practices over the years, but the one I’ve used for the last few years, with a few tweaks, has been a small variation on the “three morning pages” journaling practice first popularized by Julia Cameron.

In Cameron’s original practice, she simply suggested that a person sit down with a blank journal and start writing, filling up three pages in a journal with their writing before stopping for the day. Write about whatever’s on your mind – if it’s on your mind, just write it down, no matter how inane or pointless it seems. It gets that thought out of your head and makes space for whatever’s next. Some days, everything is inane, and that’s fine. Other days, you’re working through some very difficult things, and that’s fine, too. The goal is to empty that junk out of your head so you can get clean start to your day.

I tried doing this exact thing for a while, but I ran into a number of small problems with it. The biggest one was that my handwriting is small and the pages in my journal are big. I tend to journal by writing in block capital letters – it just feels the most comfortable to me – and the writing is pretty small. Most of my journals are either full size pages or close to it. Thus, it can take a long time to simply fill up a page with words, even if I’m writing as fast as I can.

So, I modified the practice to what I call “45 morning minutes.” I just set a timer for 45 minutes, sit down with my journal, open to the next blank page (or partial page), and start writing. When the timer goes off, I keep going until there’s a clear break in thought and then I write a big double line across the page indicating the end of the day, and I’m done. Journaling with a strict time limit keeps it within a reasonable time frame for me and makes it easy to schedule.

Obviously, I do this in the morning, usually before anyone else is awake. I find that doing this early in the day is really effective at quieting down that internal monologue that distracts me with chatter and ideas throughout the day. I’d rather have it quiet in the mornings and afternoons so that I can get focused work done. So, that’s another big part of the equation for me: journaling in the morning quiets my internal monologue so that I can focus better during the work day.

After I finish, I usually read back through my entry over the course of a few minutes, mostly to extract things that I need to get done in the near future. Are there any actionable items that I thought about or generated during that journaling? If so, I move them to my to-do list manager or to my calendar so I can find them later on in the day when I’m actually doing stuff. Again, another key point: journaling often generates specific actions I need to work on or things I need to take care of, so I transfer those out to a to-do list.

After that, I just close my journal and go about my day.

There are a few obvious questions that come about from that description, so let me address them right now.

I read old entries, but nothing older than a few months. After four or five months, the old entries start to read like they were written by another person living another life. It’s familiar in the way that a distant memory is familiar, but it doesn’t feel like me any more. When journal entries reach that point, then there isn’t really any value to them any more, at least not for me. The method of journaling I use is not really a record of what I did each day, so once the entries aren’t fresh, I don’t find any personal value in them. I’ve changed enough as a person that the situations and solutions I wrote about in old journals no longer apply specifically to new situations. I haven’t actively read journal entries more than a few months old in a long time, and every time I happen to see one, I really don’t care to read it.

There are a few reasons for this, but most of it boils down to the fact that my journals reflect my active thinking at that moment, but when that moment fades away, there’s not much value there. It’s not a record of my life, but an outpouring of my current thought.

There are some specific reasons, too.

I am often deeply critical of myself, something that doesn’t need to be re-read and dwelled upon. I sometimes tear myself to shreds when I’m writing a journal entry. I’m extremely critical of my flaws and mistakes, and while that can be good in the moment when I’m assessing a situation or setting out a goal, it doesn’t do me any good to read it later or for someone else to read it.

I am sometimes honestly critical of my children in a way that I wouldn’t want them to read; I do this not to be cruel, but to figure out how to be a good parent to them. It does not make me a good parent to pretend that my children are perfect and flawless. Rather, one of the best things I can do as a parent is to honestly assess their good features and their flaws and take those into account when I figure out how to communicate well with them and guide them toward good decision making practices, life ambitions, and things of that nature. For example, I might write down that one of my children is extremely conscientious of others but is sometimes excessively boastful, or I might write that another child is richly thoughtful but very quick to frustration and anger. (Obviously, these aren’t actual observations and are quite sanitized to boot, just examples so you understand what I mean.) Those aren’t thoughts that I want them to read, or anyone else to read.

The same is true for my wife and my role as a husband and, occasionally, some of my friends and my role as their friend. I do similar evaluations of my wife at times. In what ways is she amazing? In what ways can I complement her with my strengths? In what ways does she complement my own weaknesses? How can I help out in areas where she’s not as strong? I’m sure she’s glad that I think about such things and consider how to be a better husband, but I don’t think even she would want to actually read such thoughts. The same thing is true if I assess a friend, particularly if they’re asking me for some life advice. I want to give the best advice I can to them, and that sometimes means being critical, and sometimes those words find their way into my journals.

Thus, I don’t save old journals, at least not anything older than my most recent one. I keep my current journal and my previous one in a secure place where they can’t easily be found. My current journal is easy for me to grab in the mornings, but it’s not in a place where it would likely be found. When my current journal is full, I destroy the previous journal after I read through it again.

For a while, I was keeping digital copies of my old journals, but I found that I was never looking at them, didn’t really want to ever look at them, and didn’t want anyone else to find them, so I stopped doing this. The downside to others finding those thoughts was worth more than the upside of any potential limited use I might have for them in the future.

The policy of destroying the journals and keeping the current one secure lets me be more unguarded with my journaling. Given that I know my journals won’t be around for posterity, I feel more comfortable just letting my thoughts fly on the page. I don’t worry about who might read them or how they might appear for posterity. At worst, the most recent journal or two might be found, and that doesn’t worry me too much. I usually start off each journal with a note saying that this is a collection of my unguarded thoughts as I worked through personal decisions and I would appreciate that the journal would be destroyed upon discovery if I were to pass.

I vastly prefer handwritten journaling, but I may switch to using a stylus and writing on a table in the future as those technologies improve; writing by hand provides a clarity of thought that typing doesn’t quite provide for me. For me, typing is conducive to rapidly recording ideas, but the process doesn’t allow me any space to think about them. If I want to explore my thoughts, consider things, and actually remember them, I write things out by hand. This is true for journaling, but it’s also true for taking notes at meetings, taking notes when I’m reading, taking notes during a lecture, and so on. I write all of those notes by hand and, if there’s potential value that I might get out of them later, I convert them to digital format.

I feel like taking notes with an Apple Pencil on an iPad is 90% of the way to where I want a stylus to be, but it’s not all the way there yet. When it’s perfect, writing thoughts down on a tablet using a stylus will be the best way to journal and take notes because it offers the advantages of both writing by hand and digital notes, but for now, it’s not quite there yet, and given a choice between the two, the thoughtfulness and retention of writing by hand outweighs typing out journal entries for me.

I use Leuchtturm 1917 journals and either Uniball Signo 207, Pilot G2, or Pilot Juice pens. The journal isn’t a requirement – I’ve used all kinds of different things over the years – but I really like the size and the binding and paper quality of that specific journal. One of those usually lasts about two and a half months for my journaling purposes. As for the pens, I really only have three requirements for a pen: it needs to write when I want it without a lot of futzing around, it needs to have a thin line and not bleed all over the page or make a mess, and it needs to not leak in my pocket. The pens listed up there pass those tests with flying colors. I can get weeks and weeks out of writing with just one of them and it costs less than a dollar, which is good enough for me. I’d rather spend $0.75 on a pen that will write for weeks without fail and not make a mess or leak than a $0.25 pen or a freebie that will need a bunch of waving around or tinkering when I want it to write, leave a ton of messy ink on the page, and inevitably leave a big blotch of ink on the paper or in my pocket.

Final Thoughts

Spending some time each day journaling – simply writing my thoughts down on paper – not only helps me piece through the problems in my life and ideas in my head, it also helps clear my mind and make it easier to focus on the tasks of the day because it quiets the voice in my head that would otherwise keep running through those problems and ideas. It has helped me not only figure out a bunch of financial and professional problems, it’s also helped keep my mind focused when actually doing work to earn an income.

I find that my “45 morning minutes” practice works extremely well for me, but there are many practices out there that range from simply listing the events of the day, writing what you’re grateful for, brainstorming, and many other things. I highly recommend trying several practices until you find one that works well for you and then stick with it for a while. You might just find that it becomes an essential part of your life toolbox.

Good luck!

The post How Journaling Practices Have Helped My Financial Situation appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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8 Ways to Pay for College Without Student Loans or Your Parents’ Help

Parents aren’t perfect. Shocking, I know.

So even though you may have been planning out your college career, your family’s financial situation may not have kept up with your dreams of campus life.

On average, 34% of college costs were paid from parents’ income and savings, according to a national study by Sallie Mae. But families who have a limited income and haven’t been saving may not be able to help cover a higher education price tag.

Including tuition and applicable fees, the cost per credit hour at a four-year institution is $301.23, according to a Penny Hoarder analysis of National Center for Education statistics. If an average bachelor’s degree requires 120 credit hours, the total price comes to $36,148 — not including room and board.

Whether it’s by necessity or by choice, your parents could end up saying you’re on your own if you want to go to college. But that doesn’t mean you should resign yourself to a mountain of student loan debt or to skipping college altogether.

But you do need a plan of attack, which is where we come in.

How to Pay for College Without Your Parents’ Help

You may not want to hear this right now, but paying for your own college education can actually be good for you (just like brussels sprouts or liver). Taking on the responsibility can teach you budgeting techniques and saving strategies that you might not have learned if your parents were picking up the tab.

You can start saving on college by choosing a less-expensive school — here’s our list of the best college bargains by state.

Once you’ve narrowed your choices, check out these eight ways to pay for college without money from your parents — or student loans.

1. Scholarships and Grants From Your School

Already have a college in mind? Then the first place to start looking for scholarship money is the school’s financial aid office. If you’re still in high school, ask your guidance counselor for their help reaching out to the college.

It’s important to know what money is available, so ask the financial aid officials about deadlines for applications, opportunities for need- vs. merit-based funding and options for renewable scholarships and grants.

Pro Tip

Some schools won’t consider you for any of their scholarships until you’ve submitted a Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA).

Transferring from another college? Whether you started at another four-year institution or you’re continuing your education after completing your associate’s degree at a community college (a great way to save money, BTW), transfer scholarships offer a niche option. Here are 25 transfer scholarships we’ve found.

2. Federal Pell Grant

Federal Pell Grants are need-based awards that are awarded on an annual basis (meaning you need to reapply every year). Use the Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA) to apply — here’s a step-by-step guide for filling out FAFSA.

The maximum Federal Pell Grant award is $6,195 for the 2019–20 award year (July 1, 2019, to June 30, 2020). The amount you get will depend on the four following factors, according to the Federal Student Aid office:

  1. Your Expected Family Contribution (EFC).
  2. The cost of attendance at your school and your specific program.
  3. Whether you’re a full-time or part-time student.
  4. If you plan to attend school for a full academic year or less.

Filling out FAFSA requires your tax information, and unless you’re no longer a dependent, that means you’ll need your parents’ most recent tax returns. Providing this information doesn’t leave them on the hook for your college bill, but it could affect your financial aid package.

Pro Tip

To avoid debt, don’t take more money than you need. Accept free money (scholarships and grants) and earned money (work-study) in your financial aid package first, then student loans only as needed.

If your parents won’t provide these details, there are a few options that you can explore. One option is to claim yourself as an independent, but that’s typically only allowed if you are over 24 years old, are married, have kids, are a veteran or can claim special circumstances.

3. Grants From Your State

States use your FAFSA to determine your eligibility for state financial aid, so you get a two-for-one with that application (actually, it’s more like a three-for-one, since your school will probably use it, too). But some states require additional documentation, and their deadlines are not always the same as the federal ones.

Note that most state grants are only applicable for in-state schools, but there are some state grants and scholarships you can use for out-of-state tuition.

Check out your state’s FAFSA requirements for rules and deadlines.

4. Work-Study Program

Federal aid doesn’t stop with scholarships and grants. If you’re able to work on campus part time while attending classes, you can apply for federal work-study (FWS), which is essentially federal aid you receive for working.

Pro Tip

IRS Publication 970 outlines 10 tax benefits that students can claim to reduce the income tax they owe. Read more about it on irs.gov.

Work-study jobs typically allow you to earn extra money without having to leave campus — that’s helpful if you’re without a car or if making the hike from campus to a job would be cost prohibitive.

But don’t expect a work-study program to cover all your costs. Under the FWS program, students typically work no more than 20 hours a week during a semester. And you won’t be allowed to exceed the allotted hours from your financial aid award, so don’t bank on overtime to cover extra costs.

Learn more about on-campus job opportunities here.

5. Other Scholarships

After you’ve talked to your college’s financial aid office and filled out your FAFSA, it’s time to get a little creative in your scholarship search.

Start with your intended career. Corporations and professional associations often offer grants and scholarships for students pursuing degrees in related fields. As a bonus, researching and contacting these organizations early in your college career will help you make connections that can come in handy when you’re applying for jobs when you graduate.

Pro Tip

Some scholarship deadlines are as early as a year before college starts, so start applying during the summer between your junior and senior years.

Also check out nationwide databases like Career One Stop, sponsored by the U.S. Department of Labor, and The Penny Hoarder, which has its own compilations of awesome scholarships — and weird scholarships.

6. Part-Time Job

On-campus work isn’t the only way to make extra cash — and off-campus jobs don’t require you to qualify for federal work-study.  

Among the other benefits of an off-campus job is the potential to earn more money than at a FWS job since you can work more hours and keep the job year-round.

Additionally, you can potentially turn a part-time gig into a job upon graduation. Here are six tips to help you move from part-time to full-time employee.

And if you don’t want to leave campus but still want to earn part-time or full-time money, check out our handy work-from-home portal for legit ways to make money from your dorm.

7. Paid Internship

Internships provide on-the-job experience, which can help bolster your resume as your college career draws to a close.

Not only does a paid internship offer the same potential experience as an unpaid version, it could actually improve your chances of finding a post-graduation job.

Among the 2019 graduates who had an internship, 66.4% of paid interns received a job offer, while just 43.7% of unpaid interns were offered a job, according to the survey conducted by the National Association of Colleges and Employers.

You can start your internship search at your own college, whether it’s contacting the career services department, attending on-campus career fairs, reaching out to your alumni network or asking professors within your own department for recommendations. Need more help? Check out this guide to landing an internship.

8. Military Tuition Assistance

Served in the military? Instead of asking your parents paying for college, let Uncle Sam. Active duty, National Guard or Reserve Component service members are eligible for Military Tuition Assistance, which can pay up to 100% of tuition expenses.

Pro Tip

Thirteen states offer free college tuition to qualifying veterans. Find out your state’s tuition waiver policy at militarybenefits.info.

If your tuition exceeds your active-duty tuition assistance program award, you can potentially use your GI Bill benefits to cover the remaining costs (known as Tuition Assistance Top-Up). Additional tuition assistance benefits are available through StudentAid.gov/military.

And check out these additional military benefits that can help you cover costs as you progress toward your degree.

It may not be as easy covering college costs without mom and dad helping to foot the bill, but the reward will be a degree you can say you earned on your own.

Tiffany Wendeln Connors is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. Data Journalist Alex Mahadevan contributed to this article.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



source The Penny Hoarder http://bit.ly/2JEpWAF