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الاثنين، 14 أكتوبر 2019

States Where You Should Statistically Increase Your Auto Insurance Coverage

In 2017, there were more than 6.4 million car accidents in the United States. 

Thankfully, less than 1% (0.53%) of these accidents resulted in a fatality. However, more than 29% of these accidents resulted in injury and more than 70% resulted in property damage. 

Accidents happen every day. The causes linked to fatal accidents include speeding, driving under the influence of alcohol and other controlled substances, distracted driving, bad weather, decreased visibility of nighttime driving, and more.

Depending on the external factors in your state, you may want to consider purchasing additional auto insurance coverage. 

10 States Where You Should Statistically Buy More Auto Insurance Coverage

Taking factors such as rates of grand theft auto, annual precipitation, auto fatalities and drunk driving arrests into consideration, we calculated a score that indicates how risky it is to own and insure a car in every state. The higher the score, the more likely you are to need auto insurance. 

In this study, we found the top ten states you should consider having full auto insurance coverage:

  1. Alaska
  2. California
  3. Kansas
  4. New Mexico
  5. Missouri
  6. Montana
  7. Mississippi
  8. Arkansas
  9. Colorado
  10. Hawaii

Alaska had the highest score, largely due to its high rate of grand theft auto cases. If you live in Alaska, you’ll definitely want to use our free tool for comparing the best auto insurance rates.

Some states have less rainfall, fewer auto fatalities per capita, fewer cases of grand theft auto, and fewer DUI arrests, which lowers your chances of needing insurance but will never completely remove the need for auto insurance. 

Even in Maine, the state with the lowest score in our study, there were 172 car crash fatalities and 5,835 DUI arrests in 2017, 383 cars stolen in 2018, and more than 40 inches of rainfall annually. These conditions make even the safest state in our study dangerous for you to drive in. 

If you are uninsured or underinsured in your state, consider using our tool to compare affordable car insurance rateswithin your area. 

The State of Auto Insurance in the United States

There are more than 225 million licensed drivers in the U.S. who drive more than 290 million registered vehicles. In 2017, motorists drove a record 3.2 trillion miles in total, and this distance has increased by 1.34% per year on average since 1994. If Americans continue at this rate, in 2020 we will drive more than 3.3 trillion miles combined. By 2034, Americans will drive more than 4 trillion miles in a single year. 

As of 2015, there were an estimated 263 million registered motor vehicles. But in that same year, there were less than 203 million auto insurance policies. It is estimated that 13% of the U.S. population is driving without insurance.

It’s an unfortunate reality that nearly 1 in 8 drivers in the U.S. are uninsured, but this has led many to consider adding uninsured motorist coverage to their auto insurance policies. The disappointing part about uninsured and underinsured coverage is that we need to subsidize the 13% of Americans who do not have adequate (or any) auto insurance, but what’s perhaps worse than the reality of being hit by an uninsured driver, is being hit by a car thief.

States With the Most Grand Theft Auto 

In 2018, there were nearly 1 million (994,381) vehicles stolen in the United States.

Of these 900,000+ cars stolen, more than 54% of them were stolen within ten states. Although you may argue many of these states also have large populations, these ten states only make up 46% of the U.S. population. 

The top 3 states with the most stolen cars are: 

  1. California: 163,391
  2. Texas: 74,079
  3. Florida: 47,217 

However, when you consider cars stolen per capita, Delaware, West Virginia, and Wisconsin top the list.

If you live in these three states, you will definitely want to consider purchasing a comprehensive car insurance policy that will cover the value of your vehicle in the event of theft. 

Some of the states with the lowest rates of car theft include Vermont, Maine, and New York.

States with the Most Auto Fatalities Per Capita

Another consideration when analyzing how much auto insurance coverage you should seek in your state is the number of fatal accidents per capita. It can be easy to look at the sheer volume of traffic-related deaths in states like Texas and California, with 3,722 and 3,602 deaths in 2017 respectively. What’s more shocking, however, is the states where car crash deaths per capita are high. 

The top three states with the most fatal car accidents are: 

  1. Mississippi 
    1. The number of deaths 2017: 690
    2. State population 2017: 2,989,663
    3. Auto deaths per capita: 0.02%
  2. Wyoming
    1. The number of deaths 2017: 123
    2. State population 2017: 578,934
    3. Auto deaths per capita: 0.02%
  3. South Carolina
    1. The number of deaths 2017: 988
    2. State population 2017: 5,021,219
    3. Auto deaths per capita: 0.02%

Other notable states with a high rate of car crash fatalities include Alabama, New Mexico, and Montana. The states with the lowest number of auto fatalities per capita? Minnesota, Massachusetts, and New York are all places where the chances of being the victim of an auto-related fatality are lowest in the U.S.

If you live in Mississippi, Wyoming, or South Carolina, however, you may want to consider increasing your current auto insurance policy coverage. 

States With the Most Drunk Driving Arrests

Driving under the influence is a serious offense, and the statistics of drunk driving in the U.S. may shock you. In 2017, there were 797,259 DUI arrests in the U.S. This means that 0.25% of the U.S. population in 2017 was arrested for driving under the influence of a controlled substance. 

When you consider the states with the most DUI arrests for minors (under 18 years of age), the top states shift slightly. Two of the top three states for underage drunk driving arrests were not represented in the top 10 states with total DUI arrests per capita. 

Arizona has the most underage DUI arrests per capita with 198 minors arrested in 2017. Pennsylvania, the state with the second most DUI arrests of minors under the age of 18 per capita, had 349 arrests in 2017.  

The only state to have the most underage drunk driving arrests and total DUI arrests was Colorado. There were 239 minors arrested in 2017 for DUI and 23,664 total arrests made for DUI in 2017. 

States With The Worst Weather For Driving

Approximately 21% of car accidents are caused by adverse weather conditions.

The majority of these weather-related accidents occur due to wet pavement and during rainfall. In fact, 70% of weather-related accidents occur on wet pavement and 46% while it is raining.

With this in mind, we wanted to see which states are the most likely to have wet pavement or rainy conditions. Here are the top states with the most annual rainfall. 

If you live in states with a lot of rainfall, you are likely aware of how dangerous the road conditions can become. Even so, you may not have been aware of just how much rain can increase your chances of a car accident, which is why you should consider evaluating your current auto insurance coverage if you live in these states with the most rain per year:

  1. Hawaii
  2. Louisiana
  3. Mississippi
  4. Alabama
  5. Florida
  6. Tennessee
  7. Georgia
  8. Arkansas
  9. Connecticut
  10. North Carolina

Methodology 

In this study, we calculated a score based on four metrics: 

  1. The average rate of auto theft in 2018 for every state
  2. Total auto-related fatalities per state in 2017 divided by state populations in 2017
  3. Average annual precipitation per state in inches 
  4. Total driving under the influence arrests per capita in 2017

The score was calculated with equal weight given to the metrics. If there were more inches of rain on average in a given state, the score reflects that additional risk. If there was a higher rate of grand theft auto, similarly, the score reflects this risk of your vehicle being stolen. 

The post States Where You Should Statistically Increase Your Auto Insurance Coverage appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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Controversial probate fee hike dubbed a 'stealth tax' on grieving families scrapped

Controversial probate fee hike dubbed a 'stealth tax' on grieving families scrapped

The extra death duty - which was set to come into force next year - could have cost the largest estates £6,000

Stephen Little Mon, 10/14/2019 - 11:01
Image

The government has decided to scrap the controversial probate fee hike introduced by Theresa May.

Probate fees were set to go up next year, potentially hitting 300,000 bereaved families a year.

Under the new system the charge would have gone up according to the value of the estate.

The changes would have seen the flat fee of £215 a year go up to £6,000 for the largest estates - raising around £155 million a year for the government.

The government will now review probate fees as part of the annual assessment of the fees charged for proceedings in the civil and family courts.

A Ministry of Justice spokesperson says: “Fees are necessary to properly fund our world-leading courts system, but we have listened carefully to concerns around changes to those charged for probate and will look at them again as part of a wider review to make sure all fees are fair and proportionate.”

Jon Greer, head of retirement policy at Quilter, says: “A hike in probate fees has been on the cards for numerous months now, but just this weekend the justice secretary scrapped the controversial plan.

“The dispute was primarily because the tiered charge structure resembled a tax, rather than a fee. 

"Even the Office for National Statistics said that it expected to treat the charges as a tax in its evaluation of the UK’s finances. Scrapping the hike in favour of a review was an easy win that was hard to miss.”

Probate fees give legal control to the family over the estate of someone when they pass away.

Currently a flat fee of £215 applies in England and Wales - or £155 if you use a solicitor – on estates above £5,000.

Critics argued that the hike was a backdoor stealth tax that would hurt grieving families.

Under the original plan, the threshold for paying fees was set to be lifted to £50,000, exempting 25,000 estates annually from fees.

Estates valued between £50,000 to £300,000 would be charged £250, going up to a maximum £6,000 for estates more than £2 million.

Kay Ingram, director of public policy at LEBC, says: “I am delighted as we campaigned against this increase which looked more like a tax than a fee.

"We understand the courts have to be paid for but lumping that cost on bereaved families was an unfair burden and we are pleased that the government have listened.”



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الأحد، 13 أكتوبر 2019

5 Things to Put on Your Resume to Get Hired Today

The art of resume writing has changed a lot in the past 20 years. While there are still some tried and true methods (like clean layouts, bullet points, and lots of white space), technology and remote work have redefined what makes an effective resume. This is especially true if you’re a freelancer or applying for […]

The post 5 Things to Put on Your Resume to Get Hired Today appeared first on The Work at Home Woman | Legit Work From Home Jobs.



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Stuck in an Upside Down Car Loan? How to Get Your Finances Rolling Again

When you walked into the dealership, you fell in love with your current car. It was so shiny and new. 

Five years later, you’ve fallen out of love with your gas-guzzler with the thread-bare tires and are wondering if you could just trade it in for the next beauty.

Then you remember you still owe on your current hunk of junk. And that to get monthly payments low enough for you to afford that car, you jumped at the six-year (or seven-year… or eight-year) term the dealer offered.

You’re not the first person to fall for a set of wheels that’s beyond reach, especially as car loans have continued to climb. The average loan amount for a passenger vehicle set a new record high in the first quarter of 2019 at $32,187, with average monthly payments ballooning to $554, according to Experian.

To offset these costs, more people are lengthening their loan terms to lower their monthly payments. New car loan terms between 85 and 96 months (that’s seven- to eight-year car loans) increased 38% in the first quarter of 2019 compared to 2018. 

Then consider that new cars lose 20% of the value the moment you drive them off the lot and depreciation accounts for more than a third of the average annual cost to own a car, according to AAA.

All of those factors combine to create the scenario where you owe more than your car is worth, which means you have negative equity in your loan — aka, your car loan is upside down or underwater. 

Unfortunately, there’s not much use staring in the rearview mirror at this point about what you should have done with your old car’s loan, but you still have options to recover — it’s just a matter of making smart financial decisions.

What to Do If You Have an Upside Down Car Loan

Before we get ahead of ourselves, are you sure your vehicle is worth less than what you owe? Let’s run the numbers.

How to Calculate Your Car’s Equity

Here’s how to calculate the equity in your vehicle:

Value of your vehicle – loan payoff amount = equity

You can find out how much your vehicle is worth by checking National Automobile Dealers Association’s Guide, Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book

Pro Tip

Each of the price guide websites may vary in the estimate for your car’s value, so check with all three and then use the average number for the value of your vehicle.

When figuring out how much you owe on the loan, use the loan payoff amount and not the principal, as the payoff amount may include things like fees and taxes you still owe on. 

So if your car’s value was $18,000 and your loan payoff was $15,000, you’d have $3,000 in positive equity. Yay! If you want to trade in your car for a newer one, the dealer should apply that $3,000 toward your down payment, thus reducing the overall amount you pay for your next car. Congrats!

However, if your car’s value was $18,000 and your loan payoff amount was $20,000, you’d have $2,000 in negative equity — you owe more on your car than it’s worth. Sorry. 

But that’s why we’re here, so let’s look at your options and get you on the fast track to financial freedom.

How to Trade in a Car With Negative Equity

Stuck with an underwater car loan on a vehicle that you need to unload? Then let’s start with the worst idea and work our way up. 

1. Roll Over the Amount You Owe Into a New Auto Loan

If you’ve heard or seen any dealership ads that promise to pay off your loan and put you into a new car, you may be thinking what a great idea it is. Well…

“This is a terrible idea, but it’s an option, and a lot of people take it because it seems easy, but it makes things worse,” said Todd Christensen, AFC and Education Manager at moneyfit.org. “It makes it even harder to get out of debt.”

Pro Tip

If you get in an accident and the car is totaled, the insurance company will pay for the value of the car, not how much you owe on it. Consider buying gap insurance to cover the difference.

That whole promise to pay off your loan isn’t exactly accurate, according to the FTC — the dealership will pay the bank to satisfy what you owe, but they’ll add that amount to your next loan or subtract it from your down payment. 

And maybe they’ll tack on a fee, just for good measure. 

And because the dealer had to finance the remainder of your old loan plus the new one because you couldn’t pay off the first — thus making the new loan riskier — you can also expect to pay a higher interest rate.

And adding your negative equity to your new loan amount probably puts you underwater on the next car loan as soon as you sign the papers. So the vicious cycle continues.

It all adds up to a bad idea.

But if this is your only option, Chistensen did suggest ways you could minimize your next loan:

  1. Downsize to a cheaper car. If you’re currently paying for a half-ton pickup and can rollover your loan into a midsize sedan, you could be looking at a smaller payment even after adding the underwater debt amount into the new loan. Also, skip the premium package.
  2. Apply for a shorter loan term. You’ll pay more per month, but if you agree to a five-year loan instead of taking the seven-year term, you’ll pay less in interest in the long run and it helps reduce the chances you’ll end up with another underwater loan.
  3. Look for cash-back offers on the next car. If the rebate is large enough, you might be able to use it to pay off the negative equity on your old loan.
  4. Get a loan preapproval. Shopping around for a preapproved auto loan for your new loan potentially helps you snag a lower interest rate than the one a dealership would offer.

None of these options will absolutely prevent you from starting out underwater on your next car loan, but they can help reduce the time you’ll spend climbing out of the hole.

2. Roll Over Your Loan Into a Lease

Although leasing a car means you won’t own the vehicle, you can benefit from the fact that you don’t have to keep paying down negative equity when you reach the end of the lease term.

“I rarely recommend leasing a vehicle, but this would often be a better idea than rolling over your negative equity into your next car loan,” Christensen said. “It makes their lease payments larger — that’s obviously a negative — but on the positive side, they don’t have to worry about being underwater with a lease.”

3. Pay Down the Negative Equity

Paying down the negative equity on the car as quickly as you can is better than the first two options because you’re actually helping yourself get out of debt financially instead of just passing it through to your next payment. 

If you have the cash to pay off the negative equity, that’s an obvious choice, but you can also consider picking up a side job or temporarily cutting personal expenses — you could even get paid to drive your car and let the old hunk of junk earn its keep. 

Use every extra dollar you make to pay down the debt and get your car loan back above water before you trade it in for the next vehicle.

FROM THE DEBT FORUM

4. Sell the Car Yourself

You know how #1 on our list was the easiest (and least financially savvy) option? Here’s the hardest way to get yourself out of your underwater car loan, but it could also be among the most lucrative: Sell the car yourself.

The payoff for the extra effort could be worth your time as opposed to trading it in at the dealership. Christensen noted that the difference between selling on your own instead of settling for the trade-in offer could be the difference of a couple thousand dollars, depending on the car.

If you know someone in your network of family, friends and coworkers who’d like to buy the car, it makes the process of selling a little easier. Otherwise, you’ll need to advertise the car and sort through prospective buyers who’ll probably want to schedule a test drive. And you might need to head to the bank to transfer the title since you still owe on the car.

5. Hang Onto Your Car

This, in the end, is the best option, financially speaking. If you can hold onto your car not only until you get out of water, but for years after you have the loan paid off, you can put your former car payments into a separate account and build up a downpayment — or maybe the whole payment — for your next car.

Yes, it isn’t always an option — especially if your current car needs pricy repairs — but you should at least weigh the cost of repairs vs. the long-term financial benefits of holding onto your old wheels. 

It might not be the new wheels you’ve been dreaming of, but it does put you in the driver’s seat for your financial future.

Tiffany Wendeln Connors is a staff writer/editor at The Penny Hoarder. Read her bio and other work here, then catch her on Twitter @TiffanyWendeln.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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السبت، 12 أكتوبر 2019

An Update on Goal-Oriented Paper Planners and Some New Recommendations

A couple of years ago, I wrote a very popular article about goal-oriented planners, in which I reviewed a dozen such planners, pointed out who they were useful for, and then identified the one I was using at the time.

Since then, readers have pointed me toward a number of additional goal-oriented paper planners and I felt like it was time for an update to that original post. I wanted to do this a little earlier in the year so people would have time to look at a few and think it over before buying one for the new year, as many of these planners are year-long planners or otherwise oriented toward a calendar year.

Let’s start from the top.

What Is a “Goal-Oriented Planner”?

As I noted last time, a goal-oriented planner is basically a paper planner that integrates features that encourage you to make steady progress towards larger goals in your life. This usually includes specific features that revolve around daily evaluation and review of your goals and a regular deeper review of those goals (often weekly, but not always). Different planners approach this in very different ways, and in my experience that means that different goal-oriented planners work really well for specific people.

Although such planners have a deep focus on goals, they also usually function as a normal daily/weekly/monthly planner as well, incorporating the usual features like an appointment schedule and to-do lists.

It’s also very important to note that the value of any planner, goal-oriented or not, is directly correlated to how much effort you put into it. If you make a conscious effort to actually use the features of the planner and make sure to record everything of note in there – all of your appointments and to-dos – you’ll definitely invest some time, but the planner will become extremely useful for you. If you don’t, then it won’t be particularly useful and you’ll find yourself dropping it. Almost every planner can work for almost everyone if they put in the effort to turn it into a useful tool; I’m just trying to find ones that work well for me and identify who each planner would be useful for.

Why a Paper Goal-Oriented Planner? Why Not a Digital Tool?

I use a paper goal-oriented planner in conjunction with a digital to-do list and a digital calendar. There are several reasons for this.

First of all, paper planners work regardless of whether my phone has a charge and regardless of whether I have internet access. They work pretty much anywhere and everywhere I have a little bit of light and a pen.

Second, the process of writing is a reflective one, which is what I want out of a system where I’m thinking about my goals. I use digital tools when I just want to retrieve information. Whenever I want to think about something, turning it over and perhaps embedding it in my mind, I want to use paper tools.

Because paper tools are good for thinking and reflection and learning, and digital tools are good for organizing and retrieval, I find that they work hand in hand in my life. I want my paper planner to be a tool for thinking and considering, and then I take elements from that and put it in digital tools that are useful for just telling me what to do and where to go so I can put my focus on the task at hand.

What Features Do I Look For in a Goal-Oriented Planner?

After using quite a lot of goal-oriented planners over the last few years, I’ve found that a few features are almost required for me in a goal-oriented paper planner that I’m going to use every day, and a few more are highly desired.

First of all, there must be a single-day view that includes an hour-by-hour calendar and a to-do list, or it at least provides space for me to make my own. This is absolutely required, but this is basic planner stuff. When a planner doesn’t have this, I’m probably ditching it.

Second, there needs to be a place to set a small number of top priorities for the day, or some space I can use in that way. I usually have one to three key priorities for a given day and I really want space to list those priorities. The thought process I go through when figuring out that priority is where the real value is, and setting it down on paper gives it a tangible nature that helps me to follow through with it.

Third, there needs to be a place to reflect on my goal progress for that day and, ideally, space for things I’m grateful for. As I noted above, I use the paper planner as part of a daily review, usually before I get started in the morning and again at some point in the evening. That time is a “thinking time,” and these are key elements of that thinking. I want to review the things I’m working on in my life and then (ideally) be able to score them in the evening. I also want to list things I’m grateful for, which helps me keep my mindset abundant. Again, there doesn’t have to be designated space for this, but there must be room to make it happen.

Fourth, there must be some sort of space to do a weekly intense review of my goals. Once a week, I do a pretty intense review of my goals, what I did this week, and what I hope to do next week, and on a less-regular basis (monthly and quarterly), I do an even deeper dive into those things. The planner has to give me space to write down those things, even if it’s just a few blank pages.

Those things are pretty much essential. I find that if a paper planner doesn’t have those things, I’m not going to stick with it.

A Quick Look at the Ones I Reviewed Last Time

Let’s run back through the twelve I reviewed last time.

Bullet Journal is more of a free-form system for journaling, though you can also buy a pre-formatted printed version. I would recommend the Bullet Journal system to anyone who has very free-form needs for their planning and wants to incorporate a wide variety of notes and lists and subsections of their own design.

Momentum Planner, at the time, was a printable journal very focused on breaking down large annual goals into progressively smaller pieces. You broke annual goals into quarterly ones, quarterly into monthly, monthly into weekly, and weekly into daily. I would recommend Momentum Planner to highly goal-oriented people who value breaking down their goals, though it works best paired with digital tools, particularly a calendar. (I’m going to come back to this one later.)

Panda Planner is pretty much the blueprint for goal-oriented planners, in my opinion, and it was the first one I used regularly. The Panda Planner would be my default recommendation to anyone who wanted a goal-oriented journal and wasn’t sure what to make of some of the other more specific recommendations.

Rituals for Living Dreambook and Planner is really good at guiding you from a vague idea of a better future into having tangible goals that you can work toward, and that’s exactly who I would recommend it for. If you know you want a better future and have some nebulous but disorganized ideas, this is the goal-oriented planner for you.

The Mastery Journal is very focused on establishing a daily routine of action and seeing it through. It’s good for someone trying to establish a lot of daily habits, but I think it really shines for creative types who need to complete a big project and need a daily structure to see it through. I’d point someone who was working on a novel or a big programming project or a sculpture or something like that toward this journal.

The Simple Elephant Planner was probably the simplest goal-oriented journal I looked at. It seemed perfect for people with moderately busy lives who really just wanted to hammer down on one or maybe two goals in their life.

The Daily Greatness Journal seemed very oriented toward coaching toward a specific goal, and that’s fitting because there are several variations of this journal for specific goals like healthy habits and parenting. I would recommend this journal to people who have a specific goal in mind and really thrive on coaching and nudging toward that specific goal.

The Passion Planner is an excellent all around planner and would probably be my default choice for someone who perhaps works from home and doesn’t intend to carry the planner around a lot in their bag, as the planner’s physical design won’t hold up to extensive travel. If that’s you, this is probably the planner of choice.

The Get to Work Book is pretty clearly designed for people who are already pretty goal oriented. You won’t find a whole lot of guidance in this planner, but it’s very sturdy with a nice spiral binding, and if you want a goal-oriented planner but you don’t need much hand-holding and just need space to review and process goals, this is a really good choice.

SELF Planner is absolutely perfect for someone who has a handful of very specific goals they want to achieve over the next quarter. It is all about knocking a handful of 90 day goals out of the park and is oriented entirely toward that perspective. If you are tuned toward three month (or so) goals and just want something that will help you keep moving forward through them, this is an excellent choice.

The Ink+Volt Planner is perfect for people who are mostly happy with their life but want to experiment with making some smaller changes and seeing how those work out. It’s very oriented toward guiding people through thirty day challenges and trying out new patterns in their life. If you are mostly happy with your life but want to experiment with specific changes in specific areas, this one is perfect for you.

Full Focus Planner is probably the best choice for someone who is already incredibly busy but also has several goals that they want to achieve in their life. This one is clearly designed for the type of person who always has a ton on their plate but wants to make room for more. If you’re the type who has some goals they want to achieve but is incredibly busy and is struggling to find room for them, this one’s basically made for you.

My conclusion was that without knowing much about your specific needs, I would recommend Panda Planner. Having said that, at the time, I personally chose to use the printable version of the Momentum Planner, and I used it for at least a year after writing that article. To be honest, however, I could see myself recommending any of those twelve to someone if I knew more about their specific needs.

If you want to know more about any of these twelve planners, I strongly encourage you to hop back to my original post on goal-oriented planners, which covers each one in detail.

So, what’s new? Since then, I’ve taken a deep look at six additional planners. Did any of them replace my previous choice? Let’s dig in.

Define My Day

The Define My Day journal is literally a four week journal. It’s a paperback spiral-bound journal that’s focused on month-long goals, things that can be achieved in four weeks. It focuses in on that idea with a laser beam.

The journal starts out by having you define your goals for the month in a number of spheres in your life and laying out what your ideal day looks like. From there, it moves on to four largely identical week-long sections oriented around defining a handful of milestones you want to achieve for the week, a two page layout for tracking “daily disciplines” (i.e., habits you’re wanting to establish) over those seven days, a page that’s solely a to-do list for the week, two pages for each day (one for the morning to define the day, then one for the evening to review it), then a page to review the week. This repeats four times, followed by a two page monthly review and a bunch of pages for notes.

In other words, this planner wants to put you in a cycle where you define monthly (actually, four week long) goals, break them down into weeks, break those down into days, and then go through a planning and then a review cycle for each of those things.

This journal does a really good job of that specific task. If you’re very oriented toward month-long goals and 30 day challenges, I unequivocally recommend this journal for achieving those goals.

I really, really wish there was a 13 week version of this journal that was essentially three of these journals smooshed together into one well-bound version, with a quarterly review at the start and the end. I’ve discovered that, personally, that quarterly cycle is really important for things I’m working on and working toward, and to achieve that with this journal requires buying three of them and changing journals twice during that cycle.

That being said, for a journal solely focused on achieving month-long goals, this one is really well executed.

I would recommend the Define My Day planner to anyone focused on month-long goals and habit changes or “thirty day challenges.”

Momentum Planner (print edition)

This is a six month printed and bound version of the Momentum Planner I discussed earlier in this article. Prior to this, I had simply printed out the full year version and had it bound at a local print shop, which worked pretty well for me. This version is a little pricier over the length of a full year (two journals), but it’s better bound and more portable.

I’ll largely reiterate what I said last time about this system. Momentum Planner is all about starting with five yearly goals, breaking those each down into quarterly goals, breaking those down into monthly goals, breaking those down into weekly goals, then breaking those down into daily goals. It is very structured around this top-down pyramid style system. While this book is a full-fledged planner, with daily calendars and such, this goal system is deeply embedded throughout it.

For me, that system works really well. I have a lot of experience breaking down big goals into little bits and thus this system works well for how I think.

The only element here that I find lacking is that a lot of the big goals I set for myself are more habit-oriented. While I can write daily “to-dos” for some of those things, I find that a habit tracking system of some kind is a good supplement. This is something I’ll touch on again in a bit.

I would highly recommend the Momentum Planner to anyone who thinks of their life goals in a highly top-down fashion, breaking down big goals into progressively smaller pieces.

Clear Habit Journal

The Clear Habit Journal is a wonderfully-produced journal from Baron Fig that’s intended as a supplement to the book Atomic Habits by James Clear, a book I wrote about extensively in a “Books with Impact” article a few months back.

When you first glance at this, what you’ll notice is that most of the pages are blank, with a light dot-grid pattern on them. This is done so that you can basically turn the pages into whatever format you want with a ruler and a pen. A few dots are slightly darker than the others, making it easy to divide the pages into halves and thirds, so you can make daily and weekly layouts exactly how you want them. In this, it kind of reminds me of a Bullet Journal, noted above.

What really makes this journal stand out, though, are two features. For starters, right at the beginning, it offers several pages of “one line a day” journaling for a month at a time, paired with pages for “one prompt a day” so you can write something in response to a single prompt, a month at a time. This allows you to easily do some micro journaling, along with making yourself think about a single prompt each day. This is quite nice.

What’s really great is at the end of this journal, there are several pages of tables specifically designed for the daily tracking of habits over the course of a month. It simply has a wide column to list a task, then 31 narrow columns with which to indicate completion or to give yourself a score (a la the system in Triggers), and there are several pages of these.

There are also several pages at the beginning and end of the journal that discuss several different systems of coming up with and tracking goals and making decisions. Given the free form nature of the bulk of the journal pages, it’s pretty easy to try out these systems if you need to make a decision or want to try something different.

This is a really great journal. I’m pretty sure my ideal journal, if it were to exist, would include the habit-tracking material in this journal bundled with the top-down goal setting material in the Momentum Planner. The habit tracking pages in this are just perfect.

My belief is that this journal probably works best for people who want to chart out their days in a more free-form situation and then migrate those thoughts into digital tools for actually moving through the specific appointments and tasks in a day. Unless you put in a fair amount of work on the blank pages, this won’t be a full planner for you; having said that, it’s absolutely great at being a journal and habit tracker.

I highly recommend this journal to anyone who wants to focus on building new habits and tracking those habits and is more free-form with their other journaling and planning elements, particularly people who pair paper journals with digital systems.

Yearly Theme Journal

I am a long time fan of the excellent Cortex podcast, which digs into a number of areas related to independent creative work. One aspect of the podcast that comes up frequently is the idea of a “yearly theme.” A yearly theme is kind of a lighter version of a goal; it’s simply an expression of what element of your life you want to focus on that year. For example, one recent yearly theme of one of the hosts was “the year of order.”

The idea of a yearly “theme” is something I’ve done myself for the last two years, with themes for my year largely unrelated to personal finance in any direct way. (My theme for 2020 is “black belt,” as a major goal is to get a black belt in taekwondo by the end of the year, but it has other meanings, too.)

The idea proved so popular and so integrated into the thinking of the hosts that they transformed the concept into a paper journal.

In many ways, this journal feels like a lightweight version of the Clear Journal, noted above. There are a few starting pages where you identify up to four themes for the year, followed by roughly 90 single pages meant for individual days (each page has three dot-grid boxes without label, so you can define which goes in both – they could be calendars and to-do lists, or they could be other things entirely), followed by a bunch of pages for habit tracking or “daily themes,” depending on how you want to use them. That’s very similar to the structure of the Clear Journal, though with a little more structure on the individual pages.

This journal is right in the wheelhouse of what I’m looking for. It feels like it takes some elements that I like from the Momentum Planner – the annual focus that overarches over the whole thing – and some pieces I like from the Clear Journal – the habit tracking and puts them in a lightweight structure. It just somehow feels “lighter” than the other two.

I’d recommend the Yearly Theme Journal to anyone who is interested in defining annual themes and tracking daily habits, but wants to do this in a less intense format.

Code&Quill Habit System Planner

This is a really, really solid three month (effectively twelve week) planner that has a lot of features that overlap with the other journals mentioned here, but does a few things really well.

The book is divided into three sections – months, weeks, and days. The months page is oriented around a single monthly goal, breaking it down into four “milestones” (i.e. sub-goals) and actions for each milestone. Those milestones carry forward to the individual weekly pages, where you define a weekly goal and key steps toward achieving them, along with a week-long habit tracker for five goals and space for a weekly review. The daily pages are a two page layout with space for a schedule, a to-do list, a daily goal, priorities, and a lot of space for a daily review. The daily view is really well executed.

If you’re really hammering down on a single goal over the next quarter – or a single “theme” – this planner does a great job of helping guide you to success. I’m thoroughly impressed with it.

The only reason I am not using this journal, and this is a really minor thing, is that I actually track more than five habits at a time. As I was using this journal each day, that was the one thing that kept annoying me, and I really don’t know how they would add a lot more without significantly altering the layout. I’ll admit that I run into the same issue sometimes with the Momentum Planner, where I have more daily steps that I want to do than I have space for, but the extras from that run neatly onto a to-do list that’s right on the page and almost meant for that. Here, if I want to track more than five habits, it has to run into the “takeaways” section, which I really wanted to use for weekly reviews.

The Code&Quill Habit System Planner is honestly my new “default” recommendation for most people, as I think it does everything really well and presents a really usable goal and habit oriented system that almost anyone can use. As I noted, I can see specific users finding quibbles with it that might take them to other systems, but for the vast majority of people – particularly people who are just getting into using a goal-oriented paper planner/journal – this is such a solid all-around choice.

Self Planner

The Self Planner is a six month planner takes a lot of the goal-oriented features noted in other planners and leans heavily into the time management aspect of things. It’s really heavily focused on the daily schedule above all else, inserting a few free form pages and a few “workbook” style pages oriented around setting goals around the daily schedule pages.

The heart of this planner are the weekly two page layouts, which feature eight long columns, one for a “weekly overview” and one for each day of the week. The daily columns are set up like a schedule, divided into hours, with plenty of space for writing; the weekly overview allows you to state your priorities for the week and has some limited space for to-dos. Each weekly layout is followed by two blank pages with dot grids, giving you space for additional notes or habit tracking or whatever you want. It’s very heavily oriented toward a “weekly calendar” view.

Outside of that, there are pages for monthly overviews and, perhaps most noteworthy, there’s a two page guided reflection for each month that encourages the person filling out the journal to reflect on the progress for each month and figure out goals going forward.

I feel like this journal was intentionally designed for someone with a pretty tight schedule of meetings and other responsibilities. I found myself using the weekly layouts to do rough time blocking, but I don’t actually have a lot of appointments at specific times during the workday (the evenings are a different story) and I tend to rely on my digital calendar for those. For the most part, I do time blocking exactly the same each week, so I felt like this planner was an excellent tool for someone different than me.

I recommend the Self Planner to a person who has a tight, full schedule and needs to figure out how to achieve personal goals and prioritize things in the gaps.

My Recommendation, What I’m Using Going Forward, and How I’m Using Them

I genuinely feel like the current crop of goal-oriented paper planners and journals are a step up in quality from what existed two years ago, for the most part. They all seem to have adopted ideas from the wonderful books Triggers and Atomic Habits, both of which I recommend.

As I noted, my new “default” recommendation without knowing much about the person is the Code&Quill Habit System Planner. It’s just a strong all-around journal that will do a really good job for pretty much anyone.

I’m personally very into top-down planning and tracking my own habits these days, so for the last couple of months I’ve been using both the Momentum Planner and the Clear Habit Journal. This is in addition to a blank journal. I keep all three of them, along with a bevy of pens, in my “portable office” backpack at all times (except when I’m actually using them or I’m traveling).

So, how do I use these notebooks? This has been my process for the last few months.

I use the Momentum Planner to design my day. It has a very strong top-down goal-oriented focus. I use it to think about what I want to do today and what I want to do tomorrow in terms of the things I want to get done and what my day looks like. I use this in tight conjunction with my digital calendar and digital to-do list, because I almost always migrate my conclusions from this page into my digital tools. It’s kind of a “think about my day ahead” space. Then, during the day, I just use my digital calendar and digital to-do list when I want to focus on execution, not on deciding what to do.

I use the Clear Habit Journal as an ancillary journal for three specific purposes. One, I use it to track habits, because the habit tracking pages in this journal are simply perfect. I have a list of habits that I’m trying to build at any given time and each morning I review them and each evening I score them according to the method described in Triggers. Two, I do “one line a day” journaling where I write down a single line that summarizes my day and then also write a single line in response to a prompt that varies from month to month; the journal offers space designed for this. Three, I use the space in this journal to make decisions when I want to write out pros and cons or use other methods for deciding how to handle a problem. This usually comes up when I’m planning out my day and I’m trying to make a choice or when I do my normal daily journaling.

The other notebook I use is a rotating one that’s just a blank notebook for journaling. I use a version of Julia Cameron’s “three morning pages” journaling strategy where you just brain dump for a while. She suggests filling up three pages, but I write pretty small and that would take a long time, so what I usually do is set a timer and brain dump for 30 or 45 minutes. I just write down whatever comes to mind, and my mind usually ends up digging through one or two intellectual ideas or issues in my own life, and the process of actually writing them down clears my head. Often, if it’s an issue in my own life, the outcome of that feeds what goes into those other two journals, so I usually actually do this first.

Final Thoughts

I’m naturally a goal and system oriented person. I want to create daily routines and habits that take me to where I want to go, and I also find a ton of value in creating big goals and breaking them down. I use both strategies, because they each help with certain things: getting in shape is more of a “system/habit” thing, for example, while writing a novel is more of a “goal” thing. I find that having a goal-oriented paper planner by my side makes juggling a lot of life responsibilities, roles, and goals a lot easier and helps me keep an eye on the big picture.

I can’t guarantee that any of these would be helpful for you, but I will say that if the concept sounds compelling, read through the descriptions in this article and my original post on goal-oriented planners and choose one that matches what you’re going for. I think virtually all of them are good for somebody, and many will be helpful to lots of folks.

Good luck!

The post An Update on Goal-Oriented Paper Planners and Some New Recommendations appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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5 Types of Car Insurance Coverage That May Be a Waste of Money

The cost of owning a car goes well beyond the sticker price at the dealership. There are fuel costs, routine maintenance and, of course, car insurance. 

The seemingly endless options for car insurance can be overwhelming, so many drivers end up opting for coverage they don’t actually need.

Liability coverage is the most basic form of car insurance and is absolutely necessary. Should you be deemed at fault for an accident, liability coverage will take care of the medical costs for other people injured and costs of repairs for other vehicles — but not yours. Some states require additional types of coverage beyond liability. 

However, there are certain types of coverage that you can and potentially should opt out of, depending on the value of your car, your current finances, your health insurance policy and more.

So what types of car insurance can you skip? 

1. Do I Need Collision Insurance and Comprehensive Coverage? When to Skip

Collision insurance covers damage to your car in the event of an accident, whether you were at fault or not. 

Comprehensive instead covers damage to your car outside of an accident, like flood damage due to a hurricane, vandalism, theft or fire. 

If your car is worth a lot of money, you should absolutely carry these coverages, and if your car is financed, your lender may require you to. But you may be wondering: Do I need collision insurance, especially if my car is old?

If your car is old or you paid a small amount of cash for a used car that may only last for a few months, you’d be wasting your money to get collision and comprehensive.

“Your reward is diminished greatly once your vehicle has depreciated over the course of time,” said Melanie Musson, insurance writer for CarInsuranceComparison.com. “So, if you’re paying monthly for coverage that’s going to provide you with minimal payment should you total your vehicle, and then you’ll face higher rates after making a claim, it’s just not worth it.”

One caveat: Be prepared to pay out of pocket to fix the car or, more likely, to purchase a replacement vehicle. But if your vehicle is only valued at $1,000, it may be better to put money each month into savings for a replacement vehicle than to shell out money for coverage on that low-value vehicle.

Chris Tepedino, also of CarInsuranceComparison.com, warns that bundling uninsured motorist and collision is often a mistake. 

“Uninsured motorist protects your car if it’s hit by someone who doesn’t have insurance,” he said. “Collision, well, protects your car. Don’t be suckered into thinking you have to buy both. Overlapping generally doesn’t help.”

2. GAP Insurance: It Depends on Your Down Payment

Vehicle depreciation can be a major detriment to your finances, especially if you wreck your vehicle shortly after financing it. 

Because a car loses about 20% of its value when you drive it off the lot, insurance will only cover 80% of the initial sticker price should you get in an accident on your way home. That means you will be responsible for the other 20%. With the average new vehicle costing $37,401, that could mean you lose out on nearly $7,500.

That’s where gap insurance (guaranteed asset protection) comes in, covering the difference between what you paid for a new car and how much your regular insurance is willing to pay for the totaled vehicle.

But depending on how much you put down for the car versus how much you financed and how much that car is worth, you might not need gap insurance.

“Gap coverage isn’t necessary if you’re able to financially handle the risk of paying the difference between what you owe and what your vehicle is worth when you’re upside down on a vehicle loan,” Musson said. “If you make a 20% or greater down payment, your risk for needing the coverage is greatly lowered, and you may be able to forgo that coverage.”

Similarly, you don’t need gap coverage if you’ve paid off your vehicle or if you purchase an old vehicle that won’t depreciate as quickly, Tepedino said.

3. Rental Car Reimbursement: Probably Not Worth It

A luxury option you can add to your policy is rental car reimbursement. If your vehicle is damaged and must be repaired, this coverage gets you a rental car to use while your vehicle is out of commission.

However, the cost of paying for this each month would likely exceed the cost of a rental vehicle, unless you crash frequently or need a rental for multiple weeks. 

Even then, you may be better off relying on friends and family for temporary transportation, if possible. If you live in a two-vehicle household, consider getting by on one vehicle temporarily instead of opting for this coverage.

4. Roadside Assistance: Check Your Warranty First

Similarly, you can opt for roadside assistance for help with jump-starts, flat tires and more serious problems that leave you stranded. However, many new cars come with roadside assistance, often throughout the length of the warranty.

“You can skip roadside assistance, as long as you realize you’ll have to pay for a tow out of pocket,” Musson said. “You may even be able to find it cheaper from AAA or a similar service.”

If you live paycheck to paycheck, this additional insurance expense is one to avoid.

5. MedPay: Depends on Your Health Insurance

Medical payments coverage, also known as MedPay, is an optional coverage that assists with medical expenses after an accident. However, if you have decent health insurance, you can likely skip this coverage.

Want to Save Money on Car Insurance? Proceed With Caution

The cost of your insurance is proportional to the deductible and coverage limits you choose. The lower your deductible and higher your coverage limits, the more you’ll pay in insurance premiums.

This is a little dangerous, but if someone is wanting to save money, going with lower coverage limits may help,” Tepedino said. 

But Tepedino warns that this is a risky way to save money. “The average cost of an accident with property damage alone is $7,500,” he said. “That number obviously jumps with a death or severe injury, so go at your own peril.”

Brent Weiss, a certified financial planner and co-founder of Facet Wealth, believes there are some types of coverage you can consider avoiding, but he urges caution when you’re shopping for car insurance.

“I am not a fan of simply meeting state minimums,” Weiss said. “It puts too many families at risk of a financial loss they cannot cover. In general, I recommend having liability coverage for bodily injury and personal property, underinsured and uninsured motorists, and collision and comprehensive coverage for most cars. There are some personal injury coverages that may be required, but limits are typically low. The bottom line is that you want to get the right coverage with the right limits and not simply shop for the lowest premium. You often get what you pay for.”

Timothy Moore leads a team of editors and graphic designers at a market research company as his full-time gig. As a freelance writer, he writes about personal finance, careers, education, pet care, travel and the automotive industry. His work has been featured on Debt.com, The Ladders, Glassdoor and The News Wheel.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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This App Helps You Save for a Home Automatically — For Free

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Renting forever probably isn’t your dream, but buying your first home is really intimidating. It’s only one of the biggest purchases of your life, right? Way bigger than a car.

The main problem is saving for your first home is a huge barrier to overcome. Rising home prices make it tough for people like you to save enough money for that crucial down payment. 

Also, buying a home puts you on unfamiliar terrain — one that’s full of weird new phrases, such as “closing costs.”

Luckily, now there’s an app for that. Digs is the only savings app that’s designed specifically for first-time homebuyers. Once you sign up, it’ll do two things for you:

  • Digs will assign you a sponsoring lender (un-sponsored accounts cost $3/month). You’ll have the opportunity to earn rewards from your sponsor, such as financial help with closing costs or signup bonuses, depending on your individual lender. You’ll also be able to ask your sponsor questions as you save, ultimately preparing you for the homebuying process.
  • Digs sets up savings milestones you’ll reach along the way to homeownership — expenses such as a home appraisal, title insurance or closing costs. Digs tells you when you’ve hit each milestone and gives you educational videos and articles about the homebuying process.

“We just want you to be comfortable with the largest purchase of your life,” says Pat McLoughlin, one of Digs’ two co-founders. “You’re getting rewarded for putting money away, and you can learn a little at the same time.”

Here’s How Renters Can Afford to Buy

Homeownership is still a big part of the American Dream. But for too many, it’s out of reach.

More than three out of four renters would like to own a home, but more than half say they can’t afford it, according to the National Association of Realtors.

“There’s a huge savings crisis in the United States,” says Chad Johnson, Digs’ other co-founder. “Our research shows that something like 80% of renters want to buy in the next five years — but about 70% of those people have less than $1,000 saved for a down payment. Those are the people we’re trying to help.”

How Digs Helps You Reach Homeownership Sooner 

Once you link your checking account to your FDIC-insured Digs account, you can set the app to automatically save a certain amount per day, week or month. You can also link with your significant other to save together.

Along the way, Digs will check in on your progress, make recommendations and start a conversation with your lender and agent at critical times, like when you need to get pre-approved. 

Saving for a home isn’t just about the money you’re putting away. Digs also lets you link external financial accounts, such as other savings accounts, investment accounts and other assets to show you a true picture of what kind of home you can really afford. 

How Much Will You Need to Save?

The median home price in the U.S. is $193,500, according to the latest U.S. Census Bureau data. Ouch!

The good news: As a first-time homebuyer, you won’t have to come up with a huge down payment of 20% of the purchase price — even though that’s what you might assume you’ll need. Government loan programs for new buyers allow as little as 3% to 5% down.

But even that’s a big chunk of change. For example, a “low” down payment of 5% on a $193,500 house is still a whopping $9,675.

You’ll also need to pay “closing costs.” This covers things like having a property appraiser assess the value of the home and having a title company do a title search to make sure nobody else has a claim on the property. As a rule of thumb, closing costs run from 2% to 5% of your loan amount. 

Start Saving for Homeownership Today

Any rewards that your sponsor contributes to your account are earmarked to help pay your closing costs and other fees — as long as you decide to get a mortgage from said sponsor. If you have a lender and/or agent in mind, you can also invite them to be your sponsor.

Digs adds that its roster of nationwide mortgage lenders will offer you competitive rates because they’re competing with each other for your business.

Here’s one final thought, courtesy of a survey by the real estate website Trulia:

When it comes to housing, renters’ most common regret is wishing that they had bought a home by now instead of continuing to rent.

There’s no time like the present. The sooner you start, the better.

Mike Brassfield (mike@thepennyhoarder.com) is a senior writer at The Penny Hoarder. He has bought two homes in his life.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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