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الثلاثاء، 22 ديسمبر 2015

Could Your Next Financial Decision Hurt Your Credit Score? This Tool Can Help You Find Out

Check this out: If I unwisely take out a $12,000 loan for a new car, my credit score is estimated to go up by one point.

On the other hand, if I wisely transfer a $4,000 credit card balance to a lower-interest card, my score is estimated to drop by 70 points!

Those are two of the surprising results I got playing around with the free Credit Score Simulator from Credit Karma.

The online tool lets you check out a dozen different scenarios to see how they might affect your credit score before you make any decisions.

What Does the Credit Score Simulator Do?

“The Credit Score Simulator is an educational tool,” Credit Karma explains. “Explore, adjust and ponder, but just remember these are estimated outcomes and not predictions.”

You get an estimate of how many points you’ll gain or lose if you…

  • Get a new loan
  • Arrange a balance transfer
  • Get a credit denial
  • Open a new credit card account
  • Close a credit card account
  • Get a credit limit increase
  • Increase or decrease your balances
  • Have past-due accounts
  • Don’t pay your taxes
  • Have your wages garnished
  • Have a foreclosure
  • Have an account in collections

Since these are personalized results, you need to sign up for a free credit monitoring account with the company. In the years I’ve had my account, I’ve never had to pay a cent.

“It will show personalized offers to you based on your credit profile,” Credit Karma says, but you can just ignore the ads if you’re not interested.

To give you an idea of how the various factors might affect your credit score — and why — here are some of the results I got from the simulator. Estimates are based on each individual’s credit profile, though, so your results may be different than mine.

For example, a new loan might boost my score, but lower the score of someone who already has too much debt. And in all cases, of course, your real-life results might vary from the simulator’s estimates.

Here’s what happened when I tested these simulations.

New Loan

I selected “auto loan” — you can also choose “mortgage” or “personal” — and entered $12,000.

This loan apparently would raise my score by a point because, “A new loan can add to your total accounts and allow you to build an on-time payment history over time.”

Balance Transfer

I entered a balance transfer of $4,000 and saw that my score would drop by 70 points because of a new “hard inquiry” on my credit report.

It also would lower the average age of the accounts on my credit history, assuming the transfer was to a new card.

I found this result shocking, but the simulator also reported these positive notes:

“1. You may decide, however, that the money you could save on interest outweighs the potential drop in your credit score.

With on-time payments, the negative effects usually wear off.

Your score may even benefit from the new credit card in the long term.”

The result could also be because I don’t normally carry balances from month to month, so I would be adding $4,000 to my debt load.

If you already owe that much and transfer it, your score may not be hurt so much.

Credit Denial

Chase recently denied me a new card despite my over 800 FICO score.

When I asked why, they said the denial was because I’ve opened more than five accounts in the last two years. The credit score simulator says the denial will cost me six points due to the hard inquiry.

However, it also noted, “The negative effects of hard inquiries will usually fade after a year.”

To avoid this, check online for any reasons you might be denied a particular offer.

I’d seen Chase’s “five cards in two years rule” mentioned on at least one blog before I applied, and I had opened a dozen accounts in the prior two years.

Investigate before you apply, and you’ll save yourself a penalty.

New Credit Card

A new credit card with an $8,000 credit limit won’t change my score at all, according to the simulator. In general, my score has only slightly bounced around with all of my new accounts.

Short-term drops from hard inquiries for new cards are probably offset by credit score increases from the resulting lower credit utilization ratio.

After all, unless you immediately run up the balance on a new card, a new credit line lowers the percentage of your total credit used (what the credit utilization ratio represents), which is good for your score.

Closing an Account

Closing a credit card account may hurt your score if it significantly lowers your total credit limit, and raises your credit utilization ratio. Closing an old account can negatively impact your score because it will lower the average age of your credit history.

But the impact apparently isn’t that bad — closing my oldest credit card (14 years old) would only knock two points off my score, according to the simulator.

Credit Limit Increase

I entered a $5,000 increase for my credit limit and discovered my score would go up one point if the new limit was approved.

Many credit card issuers do a hard pull (hard inquiry on your credit report) when you ask for a limit increase. But, the negative effect of this may be offset by the positive effect of a lower credit utilization ratio achieved through a limit increase.

If you have several credit cards you may be able to avoid hard inquiries altogether. Just ask for the increase from credit card issuers who do a soft inquiry for a credit limit increase.

Bigger or Smaller Balances

In general, lower credit balances are better for your credit score. I couldn’t test that on the simulator because I don’t carry balances — I pay in full every month.

But, if I increase my balance from the current $703 to $20,000, my score would drop by 41 points, according to the tool.

“Increasing the balances on your credit cards raises your credit card utilization rate and total debt, potentially negatively impacting your credit score,” the tool reports.

Past Due Accounts

Unfortunately “past due” is not defined — is it three days late or more than 30?

Either way, my score will drop by 93 points if one of my card accounts is past due.

And, if all of my accounts are past due, I can expect my score to drop by 277 points! Clearly, you do not want to make any late payments — ever.

Taxes Unpaid

My credit score will drop 24 points if I don’t pay my taxes.

Which taxes? It wasn’t specified, but the explanation goes like this, “A public record on your report, like a tax lien, will usually lower your score significantly.”

Wages Garnished

Surprisingly, a civil judgment that includes wage garnishment would only reduce my score by about 24 points.

“It could indicate to lenders that you’re a higher credit risk and will usually lower your credit score significantly,” the simulator said.

Foreclosure

“Going into foreclosure is typically a strong indication that you’ve had trouble paying off your debts in the past,” the simulator says.

But surprisingly, a foreclosure only knocks 24 points off my score — and anyway, I don’t have a mortgage.

Account in Collections

What happens if I have an account sent to collections? My score drops 187 points!

Once again, we see that paying your bills on time is the most important thing you can do to protect your credit score.

Planning to make one of these money moves in the near future? It might be worth taking a few minutes to play with the simulator and see how it will affect your credit score.

Your Turn: Have you seen big changes (positive or negative) to your credit score, and do you know what caused them?

Disclosure: We have a serious Taco Bell addiction around here. The affiliate links in this post help us order off the dollar menu. Thanks for your support!

Steve Gillman is the author of “101 Weird Ways to Make Money” and creator of EveryWayToMakeMoney.com. He’s been a repo-man, walking stick carver, search engine evaluator, house flipper, tram driver, process server, mock juror and roulette croupier, but of more than 100 ways he has made money, writing is his favorite (so far).

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Sen. Durbin's 'Bah Humbug' Moment: Tax the Internet

Illinois Sen. Dick Durbin, the Democratic whip, blew up a bill that would have provided Americans with a permanent ban on the taxation of Internet service.



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We Just Discovered a Way to Get Free Money to Spend on Amazon ($5, $10, $15 or More!)

I hate shopping. I hate the crowds, the decisions, and of course, I hate spending money. So Amazon has been a lifesaver for me.

Whenever I need to get something quickly and easily, I turn to Amazon. It’s just so convenient.

Which is why I was stoked to learn about a new Amazon promotion that lets you earn Amazon credits for sending free money to your friends.

All you have to do is download the Amazon shopping app and share your link with your friends. Once they sign up and make a purchase through the app, you’ll get a $5 Amazon store card to use on your next purchase.

Even better, when your friend makes that initial purchase, Amazon gives them a $5 credit, too. Sweet, right?

As far as we know, you can refer as many friends (and get as many credits) as you’d like. That $5, $10, $15 or more can go a long way toward paying for all the items in your Amazon cart!

Here’s how to get your free money to spend on Amazon…

How to Get a $5 Amazon Credit for Each Friend You Refer

First, download the Amazon app onto your mobile device.

Once you’ve signed in, click on the menu in the upper left hand corner and select “Your Account.” Scroll down, and under “Personalized Content,” select “Invite Friends.”

This gives you the option to sync your contacts list and invite people directly, or share your code via a pre-populated text, email, tweet or Facebook message.

If your friend downloads the app using your link, a $5 credit will be applied to their first purchase through the app. Your credit should show up soon afterwards.

While testing this promotion, my friend initially didn’t see her credit. So she re-clicked on my link, which prompted her to verify her phone number. After doing that, she saw the $5 credit in her shopping cart. Woohoo!

I’m still waiting on my credit, but it’s only been a few minutes. I’m confident it’ll show up soon… Will update you later!

If you’d like to use our link, click here to sign up for the Amazon app. Once you make your first purchase, you’ll get a $5 credit — and so will we.

Then you can share your link with your friends and earn lots of Amazon credits for the new year!

Disclosure: A toast to savings! Thanks for allowing us to place affiliate links in this post.

Susan Shain, senior writer for The Penny Hoarder, is always seeking adventure on a budget. Visit her blog at susanshain.com, or say hi on Twitter @susan_shain.

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Addicted to Egg McMuffins? Save Money By Making Them at Home With This Kitchen Hack

Okay, I’ll admit it. When McDonald’s announced they’d be serving breakfast all day, I did a happy dance.

Though I generally try to eat healthy, there’s nothing quite like a proper Egg McMuffin. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve walked through McDonald’s doors at 10:27 a.m. with intentions of getting my hands on one, only to face defeat at the register when I learned breakfast hours were over.

But grabbing a breakfast sandwich every morning can wreak havoc on your wallet (not to mention your waistline), even if you’re racking up free food by using McDonald’s app.

What’s a die-hard McMuffin fan to do?

Why DIY McMuffins Aren’t as Simple as They Seem

If you’ve attempted to make your own McMuffin at home, you’ve probably come up with less-than-perfect results. That’s because there’s one element of this otherwise-simple sandwich that’s easy to overlook: the egg is steamed, not fried.

Who knew?!

Serious Eats managing director J. Kenji Lopez-Alt recently broke down the steps to achieving home-McMuffin perfection for First We Feast. This steaming method, he mentions, is what keeps McDonald’s eggs from getting “that cooked egg flavor that you get in crispy eggs” when you fry them in the traditional manner.

What’s more, steamed eggs don’t brown and char, and instead remain perfectly white… just like what you get at the drive-thru.

A Yummy, Homemade Egg McMuffin Recipe

If you’re looking to hoard pennies by preparing your own version of McDonald’s signature sandwich, here’s how to steam your own eggs at home:

Step 1: Place a biscuit mold or mason jar lid into a buttered pan, then crack your egg into it.

Step 2: Break the yolk and then cover the pan, and cook until your desired level of doneness — between four and five minutes.

Your egg will be perfectly round and white, just like at the golden arches — and it’ll fit on your English muffin perfectly, too!

Want the full scoop on how to make a killer McMuffin facsimile? Check out the coverage over at First We Feast.

Your Turn: Have you made the perfect McMuffin at home? Got an Egg McMuffin recipe we should know about? Give us a heads up in the comments!

Jamie Cattanach (@jamiecattanach) is a junior writer at The Penny Hoarder. She also writes other stuff, like wine reviews and poems.

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5 Tricks You Can Use Today to Get Better Gas Mileage

Though I generally believe driving to be a miserable way to spend my time, I nonetheless drive when life calls: to the gym or grocery store, up to my in-laws’ house for holidays and other occasions and, every now and again, to my client’s fortress (also known as their “office”) nearly 1.5 hours away.

During these hours on the road, I realized something fairly shocking.

I was driving like an idiot.

My driving style kept draining gas out of my car’s gas tank faster than it should have, and it took years for me to realize that making a few simple adjustments to how I drive can effectively extend the reach of my gas tank – regardless of what kind of vehicle I drive.

Even a few mpgs north can save quite a bit of money on gas throughout the year, and that money goes straight into my get the hell out of the rat race fund. Some people call these collective techniques “hypermiling”.

For all I know, you might be driving like an idiot too.

If you find yourself always passing other cars, speeding up to “close the gap” between you and the car in front of you or constantly out-accelerating other drivers at stop lights, then you’re probably not maximizing your fuel economy. I sure wasn’t.

5 Steps to Better Gas Mileage

Start incorporating these simple changes into your driving style, and watch your gas budget take you farther on the road.

1. Stop Braking

Brakes are there to keep your car from plowing into the one in front of you (or a pedestrian, stop sign or any other impediment). The problem is people misuse their brakes all the time, primarily due to over accelerating in traffic.

Brakes are a big drain on your gas mileage.

Understand that traffic, like the ocean waves, ebbs and flows, and the severity is a direct result of how the majority of us drive (trafficwaves.org offers a decent break-down of what’s going on with traffic waves).

To decrease the time it takes to travel from point A to point B, the majority of drivers want to close the gap between them and the car in front of them because we link unused road with wasted time.

You do this by speeding up (or continued acceleration) and then using your brakes to stop before a collision. It is this behavior that not only contributes to traffic jams, but it causes drivers to use their brakes and accelerator much too often.

My Technique

Rather than kissing the guy’s bumper in front of me the whole time, I leave a bit of a distance between me and the car in front of me. This means that by the time I coast up to the car in front, there is a good chance the car has begun moving again due to the natural flow of traffic.

If I time it just right, I don’t use my brakes at all, even in fairly heavy traffic. Not only does this help conserve my precious and expensive fuel, but it also helps to save my brakes.

2. Stop Idling

I never used to turn off my car during an extended idle because I naively believed that starting the car wound up using more gas than the idle.

But, that is not true.

Whenever your car is turned on and the engine is running, the car is using precious gas. Add in the use of the air conditioner and you use even more gas as your car fights to keep the engine cool (along with you).

In fact, some vehicles blow through nearly a half gallon of gas during an hour of idling. Worse, AAA estimates about a quarter of a gallon of gas is burned during a 15-minute idle.

My Technique

I turn the car off at an idle when I can. This means if I’m waiting for five minutes to pick someone up, I still turn off the car and enjoy some silence as my gas tank level stops shrinking.

If it’s cold, that’s fine – I’ll man up and get a little cold. If it’s warm, then I find a tree and park in the shade. If you’re not going anywhere, turn that car off.

3. Stop Speeding

I have always been a bit of a speed demon, but I have nixed that habit after learning how severely faster speeds affect gas mileage. The speeding that I am talking about here goes beyond simply obeying the speed limit.

Most cars have a sweet spot when it comes to speed, and that is generally in the 50 to 60 mph range. Driving faster than your car’s optimal speed results in a disproportionate increase in fuel consumption and overall decrease in how far your gas budget will take you.

The exact numbers vary based on car, but studies have consistently shown a severe decrease in fuel efficiency at higher speeds. Slowing down from 65 to 55 can result in a 15% increase in mileage, according to the California Energy Commission.

Whatever numbers you happen to look at, it is clear and convincing that speeds above about 55 to 60 decrease your mileage.

My Technique

Do I drive 60 in a 75 zone? Hell no, that’s a damn good way to cause an accident.

But, I have adjusted my overall driving technique so it no longer prioritizes speed, as it once had. If it’s safe to do so, I might drive 70 in a 75. After all, when you’re looking to retire early and enjoy a lifetime of true happiness, why rush?

4. Stop Short Trips

Believe it or not, the distance you take your car affects its gas mileage.

This is because your car’s engine operates most efficiently when it is completely warmed up. Especially in colder months, shorter trips give your car less time to warm up completely and results in a less efficient driving experience. This phenomenon is even worse with hybrids.

Also, letting your car warm up before you begin your drive does not increase its fuel efficiency.

Like I discussed in number two, any time that your car spends sitting at an idle is wasted fuel. Instead, simply drive your car in a reasonable fashion and let it warm up as you drive.

My Technique

Rather than taking shorter trips throughout the week, I pre-plan my trips and opt to take care of several different errands during the same trip once or twice a week, which also helps my time management (which I find to be wasted behind the wheel of a car).

By the time I am on my way to my second stop, my car is usually plenty warmed up and operating at its most efficient. I also park the car that we use for errands in the garage, rather than outside in the driveway, to keep it warmer.

5. Stop Hauling Crap

For many of us, our ride is like another closet in our house. If your ride’s trunk looks like a war zone, you are probably hauling around way too much shit that your car’s engine ultimately has to carry.

Your car’s weight has a direct impact on how efficient its engine operates, and the less your car weighs, the less your car carries.

Is it any wonder that large, over-sized pickup trucks and gigantic SUVs bring with it some monumentally crappy gas mileage? A 2015 Toyota Corolla weighs in at around 2,800 pounds and gets about 31 combined miles per gallon (city and highway = combined).

Compare that with a Ford Expedition. This thing weighs a whopping 5,500 pounds and gets right around 17 combined miles per gallon.

My Technique

I have completely cleared out my car of everything but the essential items, like jumper cables and other safety accessories.

I haven’t actually taken the back seats out, but if you rarely use your back seats, consider removing them. I keep my car’s trunk as clean and clear of debris as the day I bought it, and my car never stays packed full of stuff any longer than the time I need to drive home after finishing my errands.

One More Trick

Also, I drive a motorcycle around as much as I can (a 2004 Honda VTX 1300c I bought used).

Not only is my motorcycle a ton of fun to drive, I get about 50 miles per gallon on this bike, and in a comparison of money spent vs. gas used, motorcycles in general are darn tough to beat. I will fill up this bike every week and a half for about $8.

Your Turn: Have you discovered any other driving tips that help you conserve your precious fuel?

This post was originally published by Think Save Retire.

5 steps to better gas mileage, guaranteed

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Ringing in the New Year with a Financially Smart New Year’s Resolution

One of the most common themes in messages from readers in late December is the New Year’s resolution. People everywhere seem to want to use the turning of the calendar to signify a new start when it comes to their personal goals.

I can’t blame them. I do the same thing myself.

Of course, as with many people, my resolutions sometimes click and sometimes do not. They always start with the best of intentions, but sometimes they wind up completely failing.

The question is, how exactly do you improve the chances of success in a New Year’s resolution?

The reality is that a New Year’s resolution is no different than any other personal goal one sets for themselves. It just happens to be a goal in which you start making forward progress on January 1 of a given. That’s the only thing that separates it from any other goal, really.

Tools for Making a New Year’s Resolution Stick

Over the years, I’ve found a lot of techniques that work well for making goals – and thus resolutions for the new year – stick around for a while and often turn into lasting success. Here are a set of tools that you can use to make your own resolution last.

Only Choose One or Two and Make Them Your Focus

If you want to be successful at the goals you’re setting for yourself, choose a very small number of goals. The larger the number of goals you set for yourself at the same time, the harder it becomes to achieve any of them.

Why does that happen? The truth is that humans only have so much energy in a given day for active decision making, and when you’re trying to achieve a goal, you burn up some of that active decision making energy. The more goals you have, the more you burn up. When you also need some of those decisions for your everyday life and for your professional career, you run straight into decision fatigue, which is a sure recipe for failing at goals.

Decision fatigue simply means that your brain is worn out from making so many decisions, so it begins to rely more on instinct and impulse than on what’s actually the best decision for you. In effect, you have only so many tough decisions that you can make in a day without your brain just getting worn out. It’s absolutely a real thing, one that almost everyone has experienced in their own lives.

So keep your number of goals small so that you don’t run into decision fatigue. The more goals you have, the more meaningful decisions you jam into every single day and the more likely it is that you’re going to fail at a goal because of decision fatigue.

If Possible, Use Data to Figure Things Out

A few weeks ago, I wrote an article about using data to develop personal finance goals for the coming year.

That article still rings true. If you have a lot of data about your activity in the past year or two, whether through a personal finance tool or an activity tracking device or something else entirely, that set of data can definitely form the basis for a pretty smart goal.

Take the activity tracker suggestion. Let’s say you used a Fitbit for the last year and averaged, say, 6,000 steps a day. You might decide to make it your goal next year to average, say, 7,000 steps a day. Since you have the data from the past year, you know this is a sensible goal, and you also already have the tool in hand to track that data.

The point is simple: if you have lots of data, you know how you currently behave. Also, if you have lots of data, you must be doing something to record it, something that’s likely to continue. Thus, you have everything you need to set a goal for yourself in the coming year and see whether or not you achieve it.

Make It SMART

A SMART goal is one that includes five specific elements.

Specific means that you’re clearly defining exactly what you want to achieve. You don’t simply say “I want to lose weight,” you say, “I want to lose 50 pounds by Christmas.” The more detail, the better.

Meaningful simply means that the goal has some sort of personal importance to you. You care about this goal for some reason and you want to achieve it, ideally for yourself and not for others.

Action-Oriented means that the goal leads directly to actions you can take every day to move toward this goal. A financial goal would point you toward spending less, for instance, and a weight loss goal would point you toward eating healthier and exercising.

Realistic means that you’re setting a goal that is actually possible to achieve. A 150 pound person is not going to lose 100 pounds, for example. You’re likely not going to be able to lose 100 pounds in a month. You’re not going to be able to save a million dollars in a year if you make only $60,000 a year. Your goals have to be set within the reality of your situation. Note that this does not mean your goal should be easy. In fact, an easy goal isn’t really very exciting and won’t motivate you. A good goal manages to be challenging, but doesn’t put the goal outside of what’s actually possible.

Timely simply means that you have a target date for achieving your goal. You have a deadline, so you know that you don’t have time to mess around and take days off and put it off until later. It requires action today.

A good New Year’s resolution incorporates all of those elements into a single powerful goal.

Make Success as Dependent on Your Actions as Possible

One flaw that many goals have is that they put at least some of the control over success in the hands of others or in things outside of their control. They set up big goals for themselves, like earning a promotion, only to find that the success of that goal is entirely in the hands of someone else and, no matter how much they prepare, that goal can still end in failure.

A good goal puts as much of the control over success in the hands of the goal-setter as possible. Rather than setting a goal that someone else controls, make your goal oriented around preparation for that event. For example, if your goal is to get a promotion at work, don’t make that your actual goal. Make your goal oriented around things you need to do to prepare for that promotion so that when you’re ready to request that promotion, you’ve already achieved your goal.

Make Success Open-Ended, Too

Another effective strategy when it comes to setting goals is to make the success level for each day open-ended. Make it so that if you actually achieve that day’s goal, you’re already perfectly in a position to do more.

For example, one of my long-standing writing goals is to write 2,000 words a day. In order to write that much, I have to get myself into a groove in front of the computer and, often, when I’m in that groove, I go way over that 2,000 word threshold.

In reality, the goal’s purpose is to get me in front of a computer and get myself into a writing groove. Over the course of producing that many words, I usually do slip into the zone a little and I can produce a lot of words while in that state.

Three Common New Year’s Resolutions (Financial and Otherwise) That Meet the Above Criteria

Here are some resolutions that people often create and how applying these principles to those goals can really improve them.

Resolution #1 – I Want to Lose Weight

This is a resolution that a lot of people take on, but it’s a very tough one because it’s loaded with daily decisions and when decision fatigue sets in, it’s easy to fall back on it. It’s also two-pronged, as it often suggests both eating a better diet and exercising.

The first suggestion I’d make is choose either improving your diet or exercising. You can dabble in the other one by making good choices, but put your focus on one area or the other. They have different benefits, of course, and different challenges.

Let’s assume you chose to create an exercise-oriented goal. Now, let’s run it through the SMART rubric.

Is the goal specific? Simply saying “I want to exercise” isn’t too specific. A much better approach is to adopt an exercise routine, like the Lifetime Fitness Ladder or DDP Yoga or You Are Your Own Gym or P90X. The goal is to have a specific plan in place so that you know exactly what you’re doing each day.

Is the goal meaningful? Do you actually care about this goal? Is it something you want, or is it something you’re doing for someone else? Goals you take on just to please others rarely end well. Make sure it’s you that wants to do this.

Is the goal action-oriented? If you center your goal around simply completing the steps in an exercise program, then it is definitely action-oriented.

Is the goal realistic? Again, if it’s an exercise program of some kind that’s not completely outside of your starting fitness level, then it’s realistic. It should be challenging, but it shouldn’t be impossible.

Is the goal timely? Again, if you’re following an exercise program, it is likely going to be timely. If you make it your goal to complete that 13 week program in 13 weeks, then it’s definitely timely.

Is the goal dependent primarily on your own actions and not outside forces? Again, if you’re choosing to follow an exercise program on your own, it doesn’t really depend on outside forces. It depends on you and your choices. The only things that can really stop you are within you – injury or personal choice.

Is the goal open-ended? To an extent, it is. You can always choose to exercise more in a given day. When I went through the DDP Yoga program, I often did more than the program said. I usually started the day with an extra simple “refresher” bit so that I could more easily follow along with what was happening.

In other words, instead of just saying “I want to lose weight,” the goal has turned into “I want to follow a specific exercise program (say, DDP Yoga) through to the end.” That turns a very vague goal into one that checks off every mark of a good goal.

Resolution #2 – I Want to Save Money

Again, this is a really positive goal… but it’s also really vague and unspecific. Let’s try to improve it.

First of all, figure out what you want to save money for. Do you simply want to have an emergency fund? Do you want to start saving for retirement? Are you saving for a down payment? Figure out what you’re saving for so that you can actually figure out how to save.

For example, let’s say you’ve decided to save for retirement. That means you’re most likely going to be utilizing your workplace 401(k) and/or a Roth IRA for savings.

Let’s run this “saving for retirement” goal through the SMART rubric.

Is the goal specific? Simply “saving for retirement” isn’t really very specific. To make it specific, figure out what your plan is. What percentage of your income are you going to save? What account are you going to use? For example, you might decide to save 6% of your income in your work’s 401(k) to scoop up all of that employer match and then put 4% in your Roth IRA.

Is the goal meaningful? It can be hard to make “saving for retirement” meaningful, especially when you’re young. For me, I found it useful to imagine a really great retirement where I had the freedom to spend lots of time with grandchildren and do volunteer work and so on. That made saving for retirement meaningful for me.

Is the goal action-oriented? It actually meets this criteria quite well. You need to sign up for these accounts early in the year, and then once the automatic savings is in place, you need to make sure your daily financial choices account for the fact that you don’t have quite as much in your checking account as before.

Is the goal realistic? Unless you are drowning in debt, most retirement savings goals are completely realistic. They just involve cutting back on your spending a little. If you want to push it and make it more challenging, raise your percentage of saving when you sign up.

Is the goal timely? As long as you set up a sharp date for getting signed up for those retirement plans, the goal is very timely.

Is it open-ended? You can always save more. Most of the time, the only thing you need to do is make a change on a website to increase your savings percentage.

Is it dependent primarily on your own actions? Absolutely. Only you can sign up for retirement and elect to contribute money to that retirement plan. Only you can make the day-to-day choices to cut back on a few frivolous things to make it work.

So, take “I want to save money” and transform it into “I’m going to elect to contribute 6% of my salary to my 401(k) and 4% to my Roth IRA by January 15 and leave those percentages in place for at least a year.” That makes the goal much, much stronger.

Resolution #3 – I Want to Get Promoted at Work

This seems like a good goal at first, but it actually has a number of flaws that make it a weak goal. Let’s improve it!

First of all, what specific promotion do you want? What is the job that you’re targeting and would like to have? Once you’ve figured that out, what exactly are the job responsibilities and requirements to fill that position?

Right there, you’ve changed the goal. “I want to be promoted to workgroup manager” is a step better, but it can get even better than that.

Is the goal specific? “I want to be promoted to manager” is at least a little specific, but it’s not as specific as it could be. “I want to become a workgroup manager by the end of this coming year” is even better. We can make it even more specific, but the other questions will help with that.

Is the goal meaningful? Why do you want to be promoted? For me, professional goals are always tied to the things I enjoy doing professionally as well as how the outcomes of that work positively affect my family. I think of all of the good outcomes in my life from the result of this goal. That makes it meaningful.

Is the goal action-oriented? The “action” in this goal comes not from going in and asking for the promotion. That’s the last step. The real action comes from making sure that you’re really nailing all of the requirements for getting that promotion. What can you do each day to move towards fulfilling those requirements.

Is the goal realistic? Could you realistically get that promotion at some point? Almost always, this kind of goal is realistic but very challenging, which makes it into a perfect goal.

Is the goal timely? Putting a deadline on this whole process brings a sense of urgency and a need to work on it every day. So, set a deadline. “I want to be promoted to workgroup manager by the end of the year” works well.

However, there’s one big flaw to this goal. It is not dependent primarily on your own actions. The success and failure of this goal is outside of your hands. It’s in the hands of your boss and of the folks who make hiring decisions. You can be perfectly qualified for a job, but they might not choose you for reasons that have nothing to do with you.

So, instead of centering your goal around getting your promotion, center it around your own actions. “I will complete all of the requirements for becoming a workgroup manager by the end of the year” is a much better goal because it puts everything on your shoulders. It puts the onus for success on you, but it also means your success isn’t linked to the arbitrary decision of someone else.

Is this goal open-ended? Sure, to an extent. You can shoot for just barely meeting the requirements if you want, but you can also shoot for executing them really well.

So, turn the goal of “I want to get promoted” into “I want to complete all of the requirements for becoming a workgroup manager by the end of the year.” It goes from being a vague and nearly useless goal into being an awesome one.

Final Thoughts

The multitude of questions about goals that I’m presenting here forces you to really look at your goals in a hard way. It’s not easy at first, but the result of spending time to build a really good goal is that you’ve really increased the likelihood of achieving the things you want to achieve in life – and your life will be better for it.

Good luck!

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Gifts for Freelancers: Help Your Favorite Writers, Designers and Business Owners Make Money in 2016

I should apologize to my family: I haven’t been easy to shop for over the past few years.

It’s because I haven’t had much time for hobbies. Most of my waking moments for the past four years have been spent trying to make headway as a writer.

As anyone who’s done it knows, launching a side hustle or full-time venture becomes all-consuming.

That ambitious and creative writer, photographer, artist or other entrepreneurial spirit in your family or circle of friends might have no idea what to ask for for Christmas, because she hasn’t looked up from work since July.

And if you’re not familiar with her work, you might be clueless as to what she needs.

Give a Gift That Helps Your Freelancer Make Money

Business expenses are not the first thing on your mind when you think of Christmas gifts. But for the side-hustler in your life, these gifts could mean growing a business and making more money.

I’ve rounded up a few valuable items the entrepreneurs on your list might not have thought to ask for this year.

Some of these may seem tough to give as a gift, but read on! I’ll also share some tips for “wrapping” these unique items creatively.

1. Invoicing Service Subscription

My subscription to Harvest is one of my favorite freelance business tools. It helps me track hours, invoice clients and keep track of my freelance income and payments.

The monthly fee, however, is not my favorite part.

For under $150 a year, you can offer this gift to your favorite freelancer. It will help him make better use of his limited time and take steps forward in his business.

If that price tag is too steep, consider covering just a few months — every little bit will help!

I recommend these top three:

  • Freshbooks — $9.95 per month for the Sprout plan for contractors with up to five clients
  • Harvest — $12 per month for the Solo plan
  • Quickbooks — $9.99 per month for the Independent Contractor subscription

2. Creative Software

Whether the creatives on your list are publishing a book, producing an album or editing photos, they’re probably doing it from a computer at home.

Do they have the best tools for the job? If they could use something better, keep reading.

Photography and Design

Adobe’s Photoshop, Acrobat, Illustrator and other software is pricey to buy outright. But Creative Cloud can be an awesome solution for someone just getting started or working on a limited-time project.

A subscription to all apps through Creative Cloud is $49.99 a month. You can also purchase a single app subscription for $19.99 a month or the Photography Plan for $9.99 a month.

Writing and Publishing

For writers and self-publishers, I recommend Scrivener, book-production software a writer can use from the first spark of an idea through submissions or publication in various ebook formats.

For all it does, this software is crazy-affordable — a one-time payment of $40 for Windows or $45 for Mac.

Music, Sound and Video Production

When someone is ready to upgrade from free software, professional-level video and sound editing software can be a pretty big leap in price.

If it’s in your budget, Live is the preferred music production software, with a Standard package running $99.

For video editing, Adobe’s Premiere Pro is included in a Creative Cloud subscription, or try Premiere Elements, on sale now for 30% off, which makes it $69.99.

For serious video editors, however, Final Cut Pro is la crème de la crème. It comes with a price tag of $299.99, though. Maybe your gift to the newbie could be the start of a savings fund to cover the software as they grow.

3. Hardware Extras

These might be simpler to gift, and an affordable piece of hardware could be a game-changing addition to a home office.

Portable Hard Drive

Portable storage is vital, especially for videographers and photographers. Help them out with a portable hard drive like this 1TB drive from Toshiba for $54.99.

For less storage — and a smaller budget — try the Storite 60GB portable external hard drive for only $23.

USB Hub

I also love anything that helps me keep my workspace more organized. With a virtual side hustle, that means clearing up cords any way I can!

This five-port USB hub is on my wish list. It’s only $12.99, and eliminates the need for a bulky power strip to charge the devices I use throughout the day: phone, tablet, headphones…

For the freelancer with more whimsical taste, check out this adorable three-port hub shaped like a cartoon pig!

3. Online Courses

Online course sites are awesome for busy side hustlers. Through these sites, they’re able to learn skills unique to their field from the people who have done the kind of work they want to do.

And most make the course content available to participants forever, so they can learn around their own hectic schedule and work at their own pace.

A Premium subscription to Skillshare unlocks thousands of paid courses (not available with the free option). Get it for $96 a year or $10 a month.

You can also coordinate with a recipient to cover the cost of a course of their choice.

I recommend Udemy, which offers a similar experience to Skillshare with a wider course selection; or Quistic, which offers courses specifically designed for creative career development.

4. Books

Anyone starting a freelancing business or side hustle is a voracious reader, I promise. There is a lot to learn!

If you want to show your support for a new venture and boost someone’s business, you can’t go wrong with an inspiring, informative book.

Here are some of the most sought-after books for freelancers and creative entrepreneurs, each between $14-$15 on Amazon:

5. Newsletter or Magazine Subscriptions

A newsletter or magazine subscription is a gift you can buy once and keep giving all year long!

Affordable annual subscription fees also make this a gift you can give again year after year — which simplifies your holiday shopping.

When it comes to gifts for writers, I love TOTAL FundsforWriters, a weekly email newsletter that lists dozens of contests, grants, publishers, agents and markets for freelance writers and aspiring authors. Subscribe your favorite writer for $18.75 a year.

Writer’s Digest makes it easy to gift an annual subscription to their premiere magazine for writers. Enter your payment info and the recipient’s email and mailing address, and set up this subscription for $19.95 a year.

For photographers, an annual digital subscription to Professional Photography magazine is $30. Or subscribe to both print and the digital version they can read on any iOS device for $58.

Digital Photographer magazine also makes a gift subscription easy, and you can buy a year for $49.99.

6. Website

Almost any side hustler or freelancer these days has a website. It’s our version of a storefront, portfolio and workshop all rolled into one.

It’s easy to set up a website totally free — but that usually comes with a generic design and an unprofessional URL, like yourname.wordpress.com. These are red flags to potential clients or customers that someone is pretty new and not yet invested in the business.

Make that investment for them!

A domain is really affordable, and you’ll delight someone with this unexpected gift. Buy a domain through GoDaddy for $2.99 for the first year. You can make it a recurring holiday gift for $14.99 a year after that.

Or you can provide the whole shebang — Squarespace is $96 a year for website hosting, design and domain name.

For Squarespace, you’ll have to set up an account. You can do it with your email address or create a new address, and share the login information with the recipient. She can update the info anytime once she’s logged in.

Or allow the recipient to choose his own design. Give the gift in the form of a Visa gift card or a “coupon” for a session to set up the website together.

7. Email Service

Email marketing is the best way to grow a business online these days. If she hasn’t already started, give your resident side hustler a boost by covering a monthly subscription to MailChimp or Aweber.

These services will run between $15-$100 a month, depending on their number of subscribers. If their email list is brand new, you’ll start by paying the lowest monthly fee. Along with the gift, work out with the recipient how or when they’ll take over payments down the road.

Note: MailChimp is free to use with up to 2,000 subscribers, so it’s a great service for newbies. A paid subscription will also unlock some features of the service even for users with fewer subscribers.

8. E-Commerce Solution

If someone wants to sell his photographs, books, courses or other digital products online, he’ll need some way to process payments and deliver the product.

And guess what? That usually costs money.

These services process payments and automatically deliver products. Once set up, they save the creator the time he’d have to spend taking orders, monitoring PayPal payments and delivering items to buyers.

E-junkie is the most affordable, starting at $5 a month, but also has the most basic design. For a more visually-appealing point of sale, Selz helps set up an online store for $12.99 a month, and Shopify adds a buy button to a user’s website for $9 a month.

9. Cloud Storage

Someone working from home probably already has a favorite cloud storage service, so it’s best to work with them to coverage existing fees or upgrade.

You can also give this gift as a Google Play, iTunes or debit gift card, and indicate its intended use with creative packaging. Cloud-shaped card, anyone…?

The most popular cloud storage options are:

  • Dropbox —  $9.99 a month or $99 a year for Dropbox Pro
  • Google Drive —  $1.99 a month for 100GB or $9.99 a month for 1TB of storage

10. Amazon Prime Membership

In my opinion, an Amazon Prime Membership is kind of a home run in the gift department.

It’s another gift that keeps giving all year, and the recipient can use it for just about everything. Prime members will save money all year, because all eligible items ordered on Amazon come with free two-day shipping.

Movie and TV buffs will love the Prime Video access (and finally be able to see why everyone is making such a fuss over “Transparent”).

They’ll also get Prime Music streaming, unlimited cloud storage for photos and access to free Kindle books through the Kindle Owners’ Lending Library.

11. Business Cards or Other Swag

Congratulate someone on their new business! Business cards and other swag are a fun way to make a virtual business feel a little more “real.”

I love Moo for beautifully-designed business cards, postcards and other printed materials. Get 50 custom double-sided business cards for $19.99.

In addition to business cards, Vistaprint allows you to print a company (or website) logo on just about anything you can imagine. Surprise a friend, colleague or family member with a care package of mugs, T-shirts and other swag decorated with their logo for under $20.

12. Postage and Shipping

Got an Etsy artist in the bunch? An online business can turn costly quickly when she has to start shipping those cool creations.

Save her some money and a lot of trips to the post office with a subscription to Stamps.com for $15.99 a month.

They’ll start with a free USB shipping scale and $5 in free postage. After that, Stamps.com members get up to 62% off USPS rates and can print professional shipping labels at home.

How to Gift it

Not many of these gifts are easy to wrap and stick under the tree, I know. So, you have to be creative if you want it to be a surprise.

For most of the software or other online subscription services, you might have to set up an account. You could use your email address or create a new address, and share the login information with the recipient. She can update the info anytime once she’s logged in.

Or, you can also simply give a gift card for the amount of the gift you want to cover. Package it creatively to indicate its intended use, or include an invitation to get together with the recipient to get the service set up.

Show Your Support

No matter how you do it, giving a gift that supports someone’s new business, side hustle or creative passion sends a powerful message: You believe in them.

It’s a bit corny, but you have no idea how much it will mean to them on Christmas morning.

Your Turn: Is there a creative entrepreneur on your shopping list this year? Are you looking at any of these gifts for them?

Disclosure: We have a serious Taco Bell addiction around here. The affiliate links in this post help us order off the dollar menu. Thanks for your support!

Dana Sitar (@danasitar) is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. She’s written for The Huffington Post, Entrepreneur.com, Writer’s Digest and more.

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The First Step Out of Debt

Anyone living with a mountain of debt knows that getting into debt is an absolute breeze. But digging your way out? Now, that’s the hard part.

Most of the time, something drastic has to happen for us to realize our debts have become an emergency — and that it’s time to make a change. But where do you begin?

When you’re bleeding money in so many directions you can barely keep it straight, figuring out what step to take first is the worst (and hardest) part. And sometimes, the complexity of your situation can even leave you paralyzed. When you’ve got debt coming out of your ears, it’s easy to stick your head in the sand and hope it all goes away.

Sadly, it never does.

The First Step Out of Debt: It’s Different for Everyone

Everyone who has ever dug their way out of debt already knows exactly what this feels like, yet they managed to create a plan of escape that worked. But how?

In an effort to share some of the best “first steps” out of debt that could work for anyone, we asked several popular debt bloggers how they got started at the very beginning. Here’s what they said:

First Step: ‘I prioritized my loans by interest rate or sense of urgency.’

“The first thing I did to get out of debt was find out how much I owed and look at my interest rates,” says Melanie Lockert of DearDebt.com. She began her debt-free journey by taking a look at everything she owed and organizing it by interest rate. Using this method, she says, she was able to get a mental picture of her situation in its entirety, which allowed her to create the best plan of attack.

“Once I saw that my graduate loans’ rates were much higher than my undergraduate loans, I decided to focus on the avalanche method, getting rid of high-interest debt first,” she says. “It’s important for me to save money even while paying off debt, so I knew tackling the higher interest would work best for me.”

Whether you opt for the debt avalanche, debt snowball, or some other method, seeing how much interest you’re paying might be enough to shock you into action regardless.

Paula Pant of AffordAnything.com took an entirely different approach when it came to paying off her rental properties. To get the ball rolling, she says, she started throwing extra cash at the loan “that’s most emotionally annoying.” It had neither the highest rate nor the lowest balance, but it was the one she wants to get rid of most. “That’s a motivating strategy,” she says.

In other words, you can begin the process by attacking any loan or debt you want. The main step to remember is to pick one and get started.

First Step: ‘I created a budget.’

“The first step I took to get out of debt was start a budget,” says John Schmoll of FrugalRules.com. “I had no idea where my money was going — that’s what got me into trouble in the first place.”

After realizing he was using credit cards to finance a lifestyle he couldn’t truly afford, Schmoll decided it was finally time to figure out where his money was going and create a budget that could fix the problem. For Schmoll, that meant tracking his spending and forming a budget that would keep his family accountable.

Here at The Simple Dollar, we’re big fans of the zero-sum budget. However, there are several other popular budgeting methods to explore, each with their own set of pros and cons.

No matter which one you choose, you’ll likely end up in a much better spot. For Schmoll and his family, budgeting was “the beginning of what began the journey of killing my debt once and for all.”

But creating a budget isn’t always enough, says Chris Peach of MoneyPeach.com. While it’s cute to say you’re going to pay down debt, says Chris, “cute doesn’t get it done.”

“You must tell your money what to do or it takes off and does what it wants. Get on a budget and start telling your money what to do.”

taking a step out of rubble

When you’re ready to leave your debt behind, here’s how to take that first step. Photo: Kristaps Bergfelds

First Step: ‘I took a snapshot of our entire financial picture.’

For Deacon Hayes of WellKeptWallet.com, getting out of debt meant taking a close look at his family’s finances and figuring out exactly “where they were at.”

“The first thing we did to get out of debt was take a snapshot of our total financial picture,” he says. “We put together a spreadsheet that not only tracked our income and our expenses, but it also tracked our assets and our debts.”

Taking a closer look at their finances was all it took to get he and his wife on the straight and narrow. It also gave them a clear picture of where they were starting from so they could create a realistic plan of attack, he says.

Taking stock of your financial situation is one of the most important steps toward improvement. Why? Because you can’t figure out where you’re going if you don’t know where you’ve been. And you also cannot fix something you haven’t acknowledged.

Tai and Talaat McNeely, money experts who podcast about family financial matters at His and Her Money, believe the “big picture” analysis of your financial situation has to be the first step.

“After tracking down all of your debts, you’ll have a defined and clear realization of your true debt load. Take a long, hard look at your list of debts, and marinate on it,” they explain. “You now have a clear picture of the hole that you need to dig out of. With your debts clearly defined, you now know what target you are aiming at and can create your plan of attack accordingly.”

First Step: ‘I admitted I had a problem.’

Getting out of debt is impossible if you can’t admit you have a problem to begin with. That’s exactly what happened to financial planner Shannon McLcay of The Financial Gym before she finally got her money straight.

“I used to charge up my credit cards all the time in anticipation of paying them down with bonus or tax return money,” she said. “I never thought I had a problem because I paid off my cards all the time.”

Eventually, though, Shannon realized she was actually creating the problem herself — and using debt as a crutch to merely get by.

When you’re able to make your monthly minimum payments, it’s easy to think everything is OK. But, in truth, that is an illusion that only debt can create. By letting us live outside of our means, credit cards and loans mask the real problem until it finally spirals out of control.

“Once I realized that my spending was creating an unnecessary debt situation and that I was part of the problem, I could start to find the solution and change my ways,” she says.

First Step: ‘I consolidated my debts.’

“My first step to getting out of debt was consolidation,” says Jim Wang of Wallet Hacks. “I had several student loans and consolidated them all into one payment.”

This was a smart move for Wang because he was able to score discounts for paperless statements, automatic payments, and a string of on-time payments. “It also made everything easier because I only had to manage one account and not three,” he says.

If you’re in certain kinds of debt, lumping your loans together can be a smart and frugal plan. A great balance transfer card, for example, can save you thousands of dollars in credit card interest while simultaneously speeding up your payoff date.

If you’re drowning in student loan debt like Wang was, consolidating those loans can pay off in spades. Fortunately, sites like LendEdu.com allow you to fill out one application and get quotes from several student loan refinancing companies. Also read our Student Loan Consolidation Guide for details on the pros and cons of consolidating or refinancing federal and private student loans.

First Step: ‘I shocked myself into change.’

We’ve written about the importance of tracking your spending time and time again, but it’s important to note why this step is so crucial. Simply put, there are times when you must shock yourself into taking steps to change. And if you have been wasting money on who-knows-what for quite a while, confronting that truth might be the best first step you can take.

That’s exactly what happened to Jacob Wade of IHeartBudgets.net at the very beginning.

After listening to Dave Ramsey’s “The Total Money Makeover” during his commute, he says, he broke out his bank statements from the last three months to see what was going on.

“I took all the spending and put it into categories to see where the money was going. And I almost had a heart attack, realizing I had been spending $600 per month on mall food!” says Jacob. “That opened my eyes and I immediately made a real budget and tracked every dollar from then on.”

This may hurt a little bit, but it won’t be nearly as painful as letting your spending go unchecked indefinitely. So break out those bank statements if you dare. If you wind up being afraid of what you see, perhaps it’s because you should be.

The Bottom Line

Spending your way into debt is as easy as pie, but turning your situation around may take everything you’ve got. Still, it always starts with a first step — the one moment or action when everything you thought you knew changes and you’re finally ready to turn your life around.

That first step may be different for everyone, but there’s only one thing that matters here — taking it. Finding your first step may be the hardest thing you’ve ever done  … as it was for every person who shared their story. But the longer you wait, the harder it will become.

What was your first step out of debt? What kind of progress have you made since then?

Related:

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Make Your Money Make More Money: Get 5% Back From These Checking and Savings Accounts

It’s tough to make any meaningful return on your savings. Interest rates for savings accounts have been notoriously low for years.

BankAround says the average interest rates paid on checking and savings accounts are 0.11% and 0.16%, and the biggest banks often offer worse.

In fact, if you put $5,000 in a regular Bank of America savings account (0.01%), in a year you’ll only have collected 50 cents in interest.

So, I thought I was doing well making 1.25% on my savings account at My Savings Direct. But when they recently lowered the interest rate to 1.10% (which is still better than most banks), I started to look around.

Now, at least part of my savings is making a 5% APY (annual percentage yield). And yes, it’s in an FDIC-insured account.

There actually are several places where you can make 5% on checking and savings accounts. But you’ll have to meet a few requirements.

Rewards Checking Accounts

Even though they pay much higher interest rates, you won’t find rewards checking accounts on a typical list of the best checking accounts. They’re in a category of their own, and you can’t simply deposit your money and forget about it.

These accounts require a little work and organization if you want to get the maximum APY.

But the maximum APY can be as high as 5% — more than 30 times higher than the national average — so these accounts may be worth the trouble.

For example, Northpointe Bank’s Ultimate Checking Account pays 4.89% interest, which works out to a compounded 5% APY.

So what’s the catch? You can only get that 5% on the first $5,000 in your account.

Still, it means making $250 per year instead of 50 cents. There are three more requirements:

  • Enroll in e-statements
  • Direct deposit or withdrawal of at least $100 per month
  • 15 or more debit card purchases per month totaling $500 or more

It’s easy enough to click the button to enroll in e-statements, and once you set up direct deposit for your paycheck, it’s automatic.

But the last requirement could be tricky.

Keep track of those debit card purchases — if you fail to meet any of these requirements, your interest rate drops to just 0.05%!

Northpointe Bank is located in Michigan, but anyone can open an account online.

Another example is Consumer Credit Union’s Free Rewards Checking, which pays a 5.09% APY on balances up to $20,000! Keep that much in the account and you’ll collect over $1,000 annually in interest alone.

But the requirements for this account are not easy to meet. Here’s the list:

  • 12 debit card purchases each month without using the PIN
  • One direct deposit or ACH debit or online bill-pay each month
  • Login to your online account once each month
  • Enroll in e-documents
  • Spend $1,000 or more each month in CCU Visa credit card purchase transactions

You have to be a heavy debit and credit card user, but you can still earn 3.09% if you skip the last requirement.

Normally, there are strict geographical or employment criteria for joining a credit union. But CCU says anyone can join. You just have to pay a one-time $5 fee to become a Consumers Cooperative Association member.

Savings Accounts Linked to Prepaid Cards

The savings account I recently opened pays 5% and is FDIC-insured.

To get it, I applied for a NetSpend debit Visa card. Once I received the card, I set up a direct deposit of $500 to get upgraded (automatically) to NetSpend Premier.

It enabled me to take advantage of a linked savings account at MetaBank that pays 5% APY on balances up to $5,000 (the APY drops to 0.5% on any higher amount).

The account takes a little work to set up because you have to load the card account and then transfer the money to the savings account.

Here’s what I like about this arrangement: Once the work is done, the only thing I have to do is transfer a few dollars from my checking account to the card account. As long as I do this periodically, I avoid a 90-day $5.95 inactivity fee.

I also opted for the pay-as-you-go plan for the card — it has no monthly fees. There are fees for using the debit card for purchases, ATM withdrawals or balance checks, but you can just leave the card home and check your balance online. Interest is paid quarterly.

There are a few other prepaid card savings accounts that pay around 5% interest. Some have additional requirements. Some also have monthly fees that can reduce your return.

For example, the Mango card charges a $3 monthly fee, but also has a linked savings account that pays 6% APY if your direct deposits total $500 per month.

To get your money back out of these accounts, transfer it from savings to the debit card account. Then transfer it to your regular checking account.

Quick warning: there are reports of transfer problems when trying to fund the account from some bank accounts. You may want to link your regular account and try transferring money back and forth before fully funding the debit card account.

If you don’t have a linked account for withdrawals, you’ll have to access your money via an ATM, which involves fees. Or, you’ll have to spend it using the debit card.

Most of these accounts only pay the high interest rates on balances of $5,000 or less. If you have substantial savings, you may want to open several accounts.

Our tip: Start with the accounts that have simple requirements and options for avoiding all fees.

Of course, it can be tricky to keep track of numerous accounts and their requirements (and to avoid inactivity fees). But, that’s just the way it is in this low-interest-rate environment.

You have to exercise your organizational skills to make 5% on checking and savings accounts.

Your Turn: What’s the APY on your checking and savings accounts?

Steve Gillman is the author of “101 Weird Ways to Make Money” and creator of EveryWayToMakeMoney.com. He’s been a repo-man, walking stick carver, search engine evaluator, house flipper, tram driver, process server, mock juror and roulette croupier, but of more than 100 ways he has made money, writing is his favorite (so far).

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How an Incubator Can Help Grow Your Small Business

By Jan Pinnington Back in 2011, when I first starting teaching my daughter and her friends how to cook from my home kitchen, I never imagined the potential for turning my itty bitty passion into something life changing for myself, or for others. Fast forward to the end of 2015, and as I look back […]

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