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الثلاثاء، 24 أبريل 2018

Here’s How to Get $10 at Kmart for Your Expired Toys R Us Gift Cards


While some of us are still mourning the loss of our beloved childhood toy store, others are stuck with useless gift cards and defunct registries.

Well, not all is lost for some of you.

Kmart just launched a new rewards program that will exchange your leftover Toys R Us and Babies R Us gift cards for FREECASH points to be used on in-store purchases.

And that’s good news considering Toys R Us stopped honoring gift cards on April 21.

How to Exchange Your Toys R Us Gift Cards

The process is pretty easy, but you have to be a member of Kmart’s Shop Your Way rewards program to get the deal.

You can register for the rewards program online or in stores.

Once you get that out of the way, simply present your Toys R Us and/or Babies R Us gift cards at any Kmart customer service desk nationwide.

A representative will register you for the exchange program and ask you to fill out a survey.

When that’s all finished, you will get $10 FREECASH added to your rewards account. It can be used in stores on any purchase over $10.

Kmart will accept all expired Toys R Us and Babies R Us gift cards.

Unfortunately, this one-time offer is only good for $10 FREECASH, regardless of how many gift cards you have or the value remaining on each card.

Hey, a 10-spot is better than nothing at all.

The offer ends July 31, so don’t drag your feet.

Stephanie Bolling is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. She was a Kmart kid before she was ever a Toys R Us kid.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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Pocono Jazz great Dorough dies at 94

Jazz great Bob Dorough, who had a professional career that spanned nearly 70 years but was best known for his “Schoolhouse Rock” compositions that taught children math and grammar on Saturday morning television, has died.He was 94.Dorough reportedly died at his home in Mount Bethel. Though born in Arkansas and reared in Texas, he lived more than half his life in the Poconos area, though he still spoke with a heavy Texas twang.Dorough was renowned as a bebop [...]

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Help Banish the 5 O’Clock Shadow as a Customer Service Rep for Harry’s


If there’s one thing we can all agree on, it’s that the price of razors is straight up out of control.

When you head to the drug store to pick up a three-pack of razors, you’d better be ready to auction off one of your kidneys to foot the bill.

OK, maybe I’m being dramatic, but they are definitely pricey. The good news is that you can find razors at a lower price without even leaving the comfort of your own home.

Harry’s is one of those companies that offers men’s shaving equipment at a discounted price through its online shop. And even more good news, the company is hiring.

The New York-based retailer is looking for a remote customer experience associate who can work 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., can handle at least one weekend day and can start by June 4.

This is a full-time, work-from-home position, but it’s only available to applicants in Connecticut, New York and New Jersey.

Why the limited area, you ask? Well, despite the fact that it’s a work-from-home gig, the training and onboarding takes place at Harry’s headquarters, and the job requires monthly in-person interaction with the team at HQ.

If you love work-from-home customer service jobs but don’t meet the requirements, don’t panic. We have a Jobs page on Facebook where we’re always posting new opportunities.

Remote Customer Experience Associate at Harry’s

Pay: Not specified

Responsibilities include:

  • Using the internal management system to handle customer requests and issues
  • Answering questions and assisting with customer account management
  • Resolving a wide variety of customer issues
  • Identifying customer trends and relaying them to the CX management team

Applicants for this position must have:

  • Stellar communication, reading and writing skills
  • Computer and technical skills
  • Experience with Microsoft Office and Google Suite
  • Familiarity with e-commerce
  • Ability to get work done independently
  • Previous experience working from home is a big plus

Apply here for the remote customer experience associate job at Harry’s.

Kaitlyn Blount is a junior staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. Halfway through writing this she said “Oh, Harry’s like HAIRYS, I get it.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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10 Tips for Maximizing the Value of Eating Out

I have a few close professional acquaintances (other people who work from home and produce online content) that like to meet up for lunch about once a week. I get a lot of social and professional value out of meeting this group for lunch and so I’ve stuck with this group for many years even though many of them weren’t really concerned about being cost-conscious with this lunch.

Originally, we ate at nicer restaurants and the people involved would often have a drink or two with the meal and order a really nice entree. I’d go along but try to dig through the menu for inexpensive options because, as always, I was pretty conscious of the price.

As time went on, I think I slowly started affecting the other people in the group, or else the realities of their lives made them more cost conscious. We gradually started choosing less expensive places to eat, with me often leading the charge and choosing something inexpensive that I thought was a good value. Gradually, the two or three drinks at lunch became one, then dropped to no drinks at all for most of the group.

These days, the group is still largely intact, but we now follow most of the strategies listed below. We often share tips and ideas with each other, zipping coupons back and forth and pointing out good deals for the week.

The truth is that eating out is expensive. When you go to a restaurant, you’re not getting a bargain – you’re always paying for the food preparer’s efforts and the convenience of it or the quality of the food preparation or some other combination thereof. It’s difficult to eat a quality meal at a restaurant for less than $10; even a fast food meal usually jumps above $5 without even ordering a specialty item.

I’m pretty frugal with my dining dollars, which means that I tend to avoid restaurants if I can, except for the occasional family meal or the lunch described above or an occasional lunch with friends. Almost all of my meals are eaten at home or in the form of a sack lunch that I took with me to my destination. If I’m out and about and find myself hungry, I’ll usually stop at a grocery store and get something extremely simple and cheap to tide over my hunger, like a bunch of bananas (the remaining ones go home with me).

On the rare occasion when I do eat out, there’s usually a reason for it that isn’t covered by other options, and that’s really the very first strategy that I’m going to discuss.

Never eat alone. If you’re going to actually eat at a restaurant, do it with someone else and give it a purpose beyond the mere consumption of food. If you’re all alone and eating, eat healthy and at minimal cost, which means that you’re not going to a restaurant (which usually fails at the “healthy” part of that recipe and always fails at the “minimal cost” part of the recipe).

What if you need something quick? Honestly, the produce section at the grocery store is usually just as fast as a fast food restaurant’s drive-thru section. Grab yourself some apples and bananas and a carton of milk if you need some quick protein. You can assemble a passable meal on the fly in the produce section of a grocery store for just a couple of bucks, and it’ll be healthier and tastier to boot.

Basically, unless you’re getting additional social or professional value beyond the meal itself, you shouldn’t be spending the additional cost of eating at a restaurant. Go out and eat with friends. Go out and eat with professional associates. Don’t go out and eat when you’re alone – that’s the time to go minimal.

Stay off the hedonic treadmill. What I mean by this is simply don’t eat out often enough that it becomes routine and normal. Your “routine and normal” meal should be an extremely inexpensive meal prepared at home at minimal cost. If that is not your “routine and normal” meal, your food costs will skyrocket.

Eating out at a restaurant should be an unusual experience. It should be a treat that you don’t typically enjoy, so that it feels like something special and you get a bit of extra value out of the anticipation of it and the enjoyment of a meal that isn’t just the same old thing.

The “hedonic treadmill” refers to the idea that you can start to become accustomed to pricy options if you repeat them all the time. They become the new normal for you and you have to keep repeating them; less expensive options than the new normal begin to seem really suboptimal and you naturally begin to subtly avoid them.

That’s not a place where you want to be if you value your finances. You’re far better off if the default meal for you is extremely cheap and healthy, prepared at home with basic ingredients, and the meals that go above and beyond that are memorable but exceptional occasions, worth anticipating and savoring.

Choose a self-service restaurant unless there’s a clear reason not to. Self-service restaurants include buffets, fast casual restaurants like Chipotle or Noodles and Company where you order at the front and often pick up your order there as well, or quick serve restaurants like Subway or fast food places.

The advantage of going to a self-service restaurant is that there is no table service, thus there is no waiter to tip. You’ve done the minimal service work yourself by ordering at the front, retrieving your food when it’s called, and getting your own drink and silverware (if needed). Naturally, you do lose the convenience of having someone come around to fill your drink throughout the meal and there’s no one taking your order, but you’re generally leaving the restaurant with a higher ratio of food quality for your dollar.

When I’m uncertain as to where a person I’m with might want to eat and I don’t know that person well, I usually suggest a fast casual restaurant with a reasonably broad menu along with other inexpensive local options, and the fast casual restaurant is often chosen. Usually, you can get a decent meal there for under $10.

Know the restaurant. It’s well worth your time to do a little bit of research on the restaurant before you go. Most of what you need to know can be found directly on the restaurant’s website, but you can also do a general coupon search with Google as well.

A few things worth noting:

Does the restaurant have a “happy hour”? In other words, are there times during the day where there are discounted or even free drinks or appetizers or other small bonuses?

Does the restaurant have discounted lunches? Many restaurants have good deals on lunches, offering slightly smaller portions of dishes at a big discount. It’s often cost-effective to go out for lunch and eat dinner at home rather than vice versa.

Does the restaurant offer a customer rewards program? If so, it’s probably worth signing up using an alternate email address. Many customer rewards programs offer an easy online signup on the website and will send you a coupon immediately.

Are there other coupons available? Do a Google search for the name of the restaurant plus the word “coupons” and see what you find. You should also check the restaurant’s social media accounts, as they’ll sometimes offer coupons there.

Use your birthday. Many restaurants offer a nice discount on or around your birthday (typically within two or three days of it), usually requiring a photo ID to prove it. This might include something like a discount on a lunch or a free appetizer or dessert.

If you have a few “lunch dates” or “dinner dates” that you need to schedule, scheduling them in proximity to your birthday can net you several free items. I often try to visit restaurants with birthday support near my birthday and will even intentionally schedule such events to accommodate this. This has a real financial benefit, which is better explained below in a different tip.

Drink water as your beverage. One of the biggest additional expenses at restaurants is the cost of the beverage. A typical fountain drink often costs $2 or more, which is an awful lot to add to your ticket for fizzy water with corn syrup in it, especially when you can get ordinary water for free.

If you really want a sweet drink for lunch, one trick is to order water and visit the self-serve vending machine. Put a little bit of sugar in your cup (there are usually sugar packets nearby), then add a slice of lemon, then add water on top. I usually go with the “slice of lemon, then ice, then slice of lemon, then carbonated water” route to make a perfectly refreshing beverage to accompany my lunch. Most fast casual restaurants with self-serve beverage areas have the options to allow you to amp up your water in such a way.

Even if you don’t have such options, the advantage of drinking water is that it’s free and it’s usually bottomless, so you can drink a glass of it before your meal arrives and another with your meal, leaving you less hungry and thus sated by a smaller amount of food.

Aim for a dish you couldn’t prepare at home. There are a number of dishes that we often prepare at home. Pasta is one. Simple homemade pizza is another. Simple grilled foods is another one.

Like any family, if we have similar meals on a frequent basis, they become tiresome and routine and we end up excluding it from our meal routine for a while, which means that we have fewer regular options and have to be more creative. It’s much better to spread out our regular homemade staples.

Eating those regular meals when we’re out at a restaurant disrupts that home meal preparation cycle. If we go out and someone in our family orders a pasta meal that’s just like something we often eat at home, they’re going to enjoy it much less if we have it three days later in our own home dining room.

Thus, one great strategy for keeping your food spending low and maximizing the value of eating out is to order something that ordinarily wouldn’t be prepared at home. Order something with ingredients that you like that wouldn’t normally be in your home kitchen because someone else in your family doesn’t like it. Order something that you actually don’t quite know how to prepare. Order something that would be pretty time-intensive for you to prepare at home.

That way, you don’t run the risk of getting tired of one of your favorite low-cost staple meals at home.

Split a larger meal rather than ordering two smaller ones. If you’re dining with a close friend or your partner, consider ordering one large entree rather than two smaller ones. The large entree is likely to be quite a bit cheaper than the two smaller ones combined, but the portion sizes are very likely to be large enough to sate both of you.

For example, my wife and I will often order a single large pasta bowl when we go to Noodles and Company and just simply share it between us rather than ordering two meals. It’s substantially cheaper this way and we both leave comfortably full.

If you don’t like the thought of sharing the same bowl or plate with someone, ask for a second plate or a takeout box right when you order, then split up the meal at the table.

Eat sensibly and take home leftovers. When you have a big plate of food in front of you at a restaurant, it can be really tempting to just eat all of it and not leave a bit behind. After all, you paid for it – won’t it just go to waste. Sometimes, even being aware that you can get a leftover box isn’t enough to stop this.

My strategy? I usually ask for a leftover box (or grab one if they’re available, as they often are at a fast casual restaurant) as soon as the meal is delivered, then I put part of my meal in the leftover box well before I’ve finished what’s on my plate. This lets me feel the “empty plate” feeling while still having a box of leftovers to take home for me.

That box of leftovers often becomes lunch the next day, which essentially means that my one meal at the restaurant has actually covered two meals.

Combine the strategies. Yesterday, I went out to lunch with two friends at Noodles and Company. I ordered a regular sized entree for $8.99 along with a cup of water, applied a $3 off coupon to the meal, added lemon to the water, and snagged a take out container before I went to my table. I drank a full cup of water, then refilled it just before my food was ready. As soon as my meal arrived at the table, I put half of the entree into the leftover box. In the end, I paid less than $6 for a good-sized lunch and a leftover container that held lunch for the next day, and it gave me a great opportunity to see some friends and have some great lunch conversation and planning for an upcoming event.

To me, that’s frugality at work. I simply stacked together several simple strategies, reducing the cost of what could have easily been a $12 lunch by myself into $5.50 spent on two lunches, one of which was a really nice social opportunity. To me, that’s how you maximize the value of eating out. Stack these little strategies together and you’ll end up getting real value.

Remember, the goal here isn’t to have a “cheap” meal, but to get the maximum value out of your dollar. I find much more value in a good meal for $4 or $5 than I do out of a great meal for $20 when the good meal is 80% as good as the great meal. These frugal strategies often stack up on those good meals so that their price is easily palatable.

Good luck!

The post 10 Tips for Maximizing the Value of Eating Out appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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"Should I transfer my Isa into a Sipp?"

"Should I transfer my Isa into a Sipp?"

A 69-year-old reader wants to know if a personal pension’s tax benefits make it a better option for him.

Should I transfer my Isa (individual savings account) to a Sipp (self-invested personal pension)? I don’t need the growth or income from the Isa, while the tax relief and inheritance tax protection on a pension appeals. I’m 69 years old, in reasonable health and a basic-rate taxpayer, although I could become higher rate.

Treatment considerations

You need to weigh up the tax treatment of both investments before you move anything.

“An Isa provides tax-free growth and income now, but will ultimately be subject to inheritance tax (IHT) at a maximum of 40%,” explains Danny Cox, a chartered financial planner at Hargreaves Lansdown. “Move it into a pension and it’ll be outside your estate for IHT purposes, but you would have to pay income tax on any withdrawals once you’ve taken the 25% tax-free cash.”

If you do move your Isa to a pension, you would also benefi t from tax relief, as Andy James, head of retirement planning at Tilney, explains: “For basic-rate taxpayers, this is equivalent to a 25% increase in the contribution, with the relief given automatically. For higher-rate taxpayers, it amounts to 66.6%, although you will need to reclaim the additional relief from the taxman.”

Pre-operative requirements

The transfer process itself also needs consideration. Mr Cox says that as well as the pensions lifetime allowance of £1,030,000, there are a number of annual pension contribution limits. “The maximum you can invest is either £3,600 or 100% of your earnings, capped at £40,000, whichever is higher,” he explains. In addition, if you’ve already taken income from a personal pension, beyond the tax-free cash, this £40,000 limit comes right down to £4,000.

If these limits are a concern, you could drip-feed the money over a few years or boost the amount you can pay in with unused allowances from previous years.

“You can carry forward any unused allowances from the previous three tax years,” explains Mr James.

Potential side-effects

As you can’t actually transfer an Isa into a Sipp, you’ll need to cash in your Isa and use the proceeds to make a pension contribution. “This will result in some time out of the investment markets, which could mean buying back your investments at a higher value,” says Martin Bamford, chartered fi nancial planner at Informed Choice.

He also highlights your choice of pension. “If you don’t need the full investment fl exibility that comes with a Sipp, a personal pension will have lower charges,” he explains.

Another option for the IHT benefi t may be sticking with your Isa and investing in qualifying AIM (Alternative Investing Market) shares, which will be IHT-free after two years. Mr Cox adds: “This will save IHT, but AIM shares are riskier than normal blue chips.”

Long-term prognosis

Ultimately, your decision comes down to whether or not you need to access the money. “If you’re unlikely to need the money out of the pension, or at least not more than the tax-free cash sum, the tax relief and potential saving on IHT make it a favourable move,” says Mr James.

If you take more income from it, it will be subject to income tax. And if it pushes you on to the higher rate, moving to a pension will be less beneficial. “Minimising lifetime and death taxes is a tricky balancing act,” he adds. “Unfortunately, it can only be done perfectly with the benefit of hindsight.”

Jargon buster

Isa stands for individual savings account. The key advantage is that savings or investment growth in an Isa is free from tax. The 2018/19 limit for adult Cash, Innovative Finance, and Stocks and Shares Isas is £20,000.

Sipp stands for self-invested personal pension. Rather than using a traditional pension provider to invest in, where pension funds can be limited, a Sipp gives you the chance to pick exactly where you want your money to go. This can include funds, investment trusts, exchange traded funds and shares.

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Profit from property without buying a house

Profit from property without buying a house

With buy-to-let landlords feeling the squeeze, we highlight other ways to invest in UK property.

The buy-to-let market is undergoing a shift change. Long seen as a way for people to earn good returns on a stable investment, the shine has come off it in recent years.

Landlords are now facing a much stricter tax regime, with some looking to exit the sector because of a string of new tax rules that have reduced profits. So how else can you get exposure to the property market? We explain your options.

A changing market

There have been many tax changes affecting the buy-to-let market in recent years, with many landlords left with a much lower return than they had previously enjoyed.

One of the biggest changes came into force on 6 April 2017 and limits how much landlords can offset against their tax bill. Previously, property investors were able to claim the cost of mortgage interest payments.

However, this is now being limited so that landlords can only claim at the basic rate of tax – 20% – regardless of their actual tax band. The changes are being phased in between 2017 and 2020.

Another tax change, imposed in April 2016, is the extra 3% stamp duty rates charged to those buying an additional property, pushing up the price for those trying to expand their portfolios.

Landlords have also been hit by the removal of the ‘wear and tear’ allowance. Previously, a landlord was able to claim 10% of the annual rent costs as wear and tear, regardless of whether they upgraded their property or not. Now landlords can only claim when they actually improve their properties.

Yields have also taken a sharp downward turn. Data from estate agency chain Your Move shows the average return on investment for buy-to-let properties in England and Wales was 4.4% in January 2018, well down on the 5.1% recorded in January 2016. But there are other ways to invest in the property market.

Property funds

Property funds can be a great option for investors looking for exposure to property without owning a property directly. This means you can invest a much smaller amount of money and your risk is spread across many properties, rather than just one or two, as would often be the case in buy to let.

It is important to note that property funds tend to contain large amounts of commercial property exposure, rather than residential homes.

Dzmitry Lipski, investment analyst at platform Interactive Investor, Moneywise’s parent company, says that the market has performed strongly in recent years.

He says the IPD UK All Property Index – which is considered a proxy for the performance of UK commercial, residential and industrial property as a whole – has returned 11.2% to investors in the past year.

This has also delivered annualised returns of 9.14% over a three-year period and 11.5% over the past five years. While housing growth in London has slowed, Mr Lipski believes the sector still represents a good investment opportunity.

He says: “In the long term, property should continue to generate an attractive yield relative to other assets and provides portfolio diversification.”

There are other issues that could deter investors. In the weeks following the UK’s vote to leave the European Union in the summer of 2016, many property funds suspended dealing while others lowered the value of their fund to stop the number of customer redemptions, though all have since re-opened.

Jason Hollands, managing director of investment firm Tilney, says investing in property funds using a tax-free Isa is a good way to avoid the additional charges levied on buy-to-let landlords.

“For those who like the idea of property as an asset class from a pure investment perspective, it can be accessed through funds held within the tax efficiency of an Isa or a pension,” he says.

“This has the further benefits of achieving diversification and – other than in extreme market conditions – daily liquidity so you can buy more or sell down.”

Mr Lipski says that the F&C Commercial Property Trust – which is the biggest UK property investment trust – is a good option for investors. The Kames Property Income Fund and Picton Property Income Trust are also worth considering. These three funds are all members of the Moneywise First 50 Funds for beginner investors. For more information, go online to Moneywise.co.uk/fi rst-50-funds.

Peer-to-peer options

In recent years, many property-focused peer-to-peer (P2P) providers have launched products for those looking to invest in bricks and mortar.

Sites such as Landbay, Lendy and Proplend allow investors to make property-specific, peer-to-peer investments. Like traditional investment, this has the benefit of allowing much smaller levels of investment but there are extra risks associated with peer-to-peer lending.

Study each platform carefully to see the type of property it invests in. Some peer-to-peer platforms focus on property development and bridging loans – expensive loans on high-value properties – rather than on individual properties.

John Goodall, chief executive of Landbay, says that many former buy-to-let investors are now looking at alternative investment, although there are drawbacks. “People may have chosen to use us because they have been put off by the increased stamp duty or changes to tax,” he says.

Investors receive interest on their investments at the end of each month, but Mr Goodall says that they “don’t get exposure to the underlying gains in the property’s value”.

Each P2P platform has its own underwriting standards, so make sure you are happy with the quality of the loans that the platform will hand out using your cash.

Remember, in some cases, the owners of the properties will be looking to alternative financing sources such as peer to peer as they have been unable to get finance in a traditional way from a bank. There is also the risk of the platform itself going bust, as your cash will not be covered by the Financial Services Compensation Scheme.

Property crowdfunding

Crowdfunding has become a popular way to invest in bricks and mortar via specialist websites, such as The House Crowd, Property Moose, Property Partner and CrowdLords.

Crowdfunding allows people to invest in property without the need to get a mortgage or manage tenants – the latter is done by the crowdfunding site for a monthly fee.

People can often invest with small amounts – from as little as £50 with Property Partner. You simply register as an investor on the website and select those properties you want to invest in.

Crowdfunding is different from P2P lending in that investors are contributing cash in return for equity or a stake in the property. They make their money from both rental income from tenants and capital growth, rather than investing in a loan or debt secured on a property.

Is property investment wise?

Regardless of how you choose to invest, is now a good time to invest in property? The strong growth in the London market has cooled, both in terms of rents and house prices, although other areas continue to grow.

Ryan Hughes, head of fund selection at AJ Bell, says that property investment of any kind should be viewed over the long term, although investors need to remember that selling properties can be very diffi cult in a falling housing market.

“The asset class is best suited to long-term, patient investors and anyone who feels they would want to whip out their cash at the first sign of trouble should carefully consider the suitability of any exposure to residential property funds,” he says.

“After all, this is not a liquid asset class, in that the underlying buildings cannot be bought or sold quickly, although the funds will hold some cash to try to provide liquidity for investors should they require it.”

He adds: “The long-term case for residential property rests on its long-term track record of providing inflation-busting returns, via a combination of capital growth and rents, as well as the ongoing near-term imbalance between demand for dwellings and their supply.

“However, the danger is that the combination of high prices, flaccid wage growth and interest rate increases takes the steam out of house prices, potentially knocking asset values at residential property funds.”

“You have to take a long-term view”

Stuart Haining runs an online marketing business and is based in Northamptonshire. The 59-year-old has a portfolio of 14 buy-to-let properties, but wanted alternative ways to invest in property, partly because of the increased taxes levied on landlords.

He used Isa and Sipp eligible crowdfunder Bricklane to invest in property, as well as having a varied portfolio of non-property assets.

“The tax changes were a reason for not going into the market again and also because we didn’t want to stretch ourselves by buying another property,” Mr Haining says.

“We were recommended Bricklane by a friend. We tested the water for a while and then gradually increased our holdings. Property investment is appealing because the returns are good, and this takes some of the hassle out of investing.”

Mr Haining now has around £100,000 invested through Bricklane, all held within a tax-free Isa. He is aware that house prices could go down, but says this investment matches his risk profile. “As I am approaching retirement, I am less interested in capital growth, but I care more about monthly income,” he says.

“You have to take a long-term view on property but with this type of investment you can usually get some cash out if you need it, rather than having to sell a property, which can take months.”

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We Tried Lucktastic’s Free Digital Scratch-off Cards. Here’s Our Review

10 Things You Won’t Find on a Credit Report

Your credit reports can tell lenders a lot about you. Credit reports reveal how you pay your bills, whether on-time or late. They also indicate how you manage your credit card accounts, such as whether you’re paying off the balance each month or revolving debt. And, your credit reports even show how often you’ve applied for new credit in the past 24 months.

Of course, not everything about you will be included in your credit reports. Certain information isn’t allowed to be included on a credit report because of federal law. Other information isn’t on your credit reports by a matter of choice. Here are 10 pieces of information you won’t find on your credit reports.

Credit Scores (Yes, Really)

While the information in your credit report is used to compute your credit score, and though you or a lender may often purchase a credit report and a score together, your credit scores are not actually a part of your credit reports. Instead, credit scores are a separate evaluation of the information contained in your credit reports. They’re an ancillary product; much like the leather interior in a new car, they are optional.

Deposit Account Balances

Your checking and savings accounts balances are not a part of the information included in your credit reports. As such, whether you have $1,000,000 in the bank or $1, neither fact will have any direct impact upon your credit scores. Other wealth building or “nest egg” accounts — such as money market, 401(k), SEP, and brokerage accounts — are also not on your credit reports.

Salary Information

Just as your bank accounts will not show up on your credit reports, neither will your salary, earnings, or net worth. There was a day, several decades ago, when salary information was a part of consumer credit reports. However, the information was not updated like normal credit accounts and, therefore, became outdated and incorrect fairly quickly. Further, most people don’t have a precisely static salary because of things like bonuses, promotions, stock options, fluctuating hours, or overtime pay. As such, it’s hard to report a single number and accurately call that your salary.

Employment Status

Although a list of past and present employers might appear on your credit reports, your actual employment status is another piece of information that’s missing from your credit reports. For example, my current employer on one of my credit reports is “student,” which is outdated by about 27 years.

Your Spouse’s Credit History

A common credit myth is that once you get married your spouse’s information will show up on your credit reports. However, this is incorrect. Credit reports are maintained at the individual consumer level and not at the household level or “married” level. The only way your spouse’s credit information will show up on your credit reports is if you’re a co-obligor of some type.

Interest Rates

While your credit reports contain all kinds of information, past and present, about your various loans and credit card accounts, surprisingly, the interest rates you pay on those loans and accounts are not included in your credit reports.

Most of Your Utility Accounts

Unfortunately, your on-time utility payments will generally not be reflected on your credit reports and, by extension, will not help your credit scores. In general the only time information about your utility accounts will show up on your credit reports is if you default and the debt is handed over to a collection agency.

Criminal Records

Some types of public records may appear on your credit reports, but criminal records do not fall into this category.

Nontraditional or Private Loans

Loans made by nontraditional lenders, such as pawn brokers, and private money loans, don’t typically show up on your credit report. And if you borrow money from your good-ol’ Uncle John, that doesn’t show up either.

Outdated Negative Information

The Fair Credit Reporting Act dictates how long most types of negative information are permitted to appear on your credit reports. In general, either seven or 10 years is the limit, depending on the type of information.

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John Ulzheimer is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring, and identity theft. He has written four books on the topic and has been interviewed and quoted thousands of times over the past 10 years. With time spent at Equifax and FICO, Ulzheimer is the only credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. He has been an expert witness in over 230 credit related lawsuits and has been qualified to testify in both federal and state courts on the topic of consumer credit.

The post 10 Things You <i>Won’t</i> Find on a Credit Report appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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Here’s How to Get Debt-Free Without Sacrificing the Fun Stuff


I’m sad to say that debt held me back from living my best life.

One of my biggest goals was to get away from the Philadelphia cold and move to Florida, but the idea of a long-distance move with student-loan debt prevented me from doing it for years.

Yet after another dreary winter day, I’d finally had enough. I designed a plan that would allow me to move within six months without racking up more debt.

It wasn’t easy. Finding the balance between living the life I wanted and paying down debt was a constant struggle. I’m not alone; a survey found that one in four college-educated Americans has postponed moving out of their parents’ house because of student loans. One in five put off moving to a major city.

While paying off debt is important, allowing yourself to enjoy life is essential to your mental and physical health. Here’s how I set myself free from the debt barrier and started accomplishing my dreams.

Stop Debt from Running Your Life

There’s a whole school of thought in the personal-finance realm that any debt, big or small, requires immediate action. Advocates say you should live on rice and beans and put off nonessential purchases until you’re debt-free.

But extreme action plans don’t work for everyone. You can’t afford to wait to be happy; delaying your dreams and personal fulfillment could be a costly mistake.

That doesn’t mean you should spend every cent you earn or stop making your loan payments. But it does mean you should give yourself permission to start living your life. The best way to do that, while still keeping your finances in good shape, is to come up with a comprehensive plan to reach your goals.

Make a Plan for your Money

Having a plan is crucial: It’s what makes your dream achievable while balancing your debt.

I focused on increasing my income to build a moving fund without hurting my debt repayment. I took on odd jobs such as dog sitting and freelance writing and hoarded my extra money in a savings account. Even after I moved, I continued working side jobs to minimize the financial impact of moving 1,000 miles away.

Consider different ways you can make that happen without taking on more debt.

Boost Your Income

If getting a raise isn’t an option, consider earning extra money through a side gig. You can make money delivering groceries, driving people around town, or babysitting.

I became the queen of side gigs during my debt-repayment journey. One of my most lucrative jobs was braiding horses for shows (seriously, this is a real thing). My hands cramped up from all that braiding and I smelled like a horse for months, but that side hustle netted me about $1,000 per month. I used that money to make extra payments on my loans.

Side gigs are a great option for busy young people who already have a full-time job but need more money to pay down debt. Side hustles allow you to work when it fits your schedule, so you can make money when it’s convenient for you.

Cut Back on Unimportant Stuff

I love clothes. I find shopping relaxing and a source of entertainment — and that’s why it became one of my worst habits. I got a sharp wake up call when I reviewed my credit card statements and saw that I dropped $500 in one month on clothes.

I realized that to achieve my goal, I had to prioritize. That meant eliminating clothes shopping and other splurges. Instead, I read free books and watched movies from the library as my entertainment. Doing so freed up hundreds of dollars each month.

I firmly believe you can have anything you want. You just can’t have everything you want. For example, you can travel or have a beautiful wardrobe, but you probably can’t have both. Prioritize what’s important to you and spend fewer dollars on the less crucial things.

Sit down and list what matters to you, whether it’s having an apartment of your own, traveling the globe or buying a new car. Once you have a list, go back and prioritize what makes you happy. Cut back spending on items that are less important to you or eliminate them completely.

Bank Your Dreams

A smart way to keep yourself motivated is to open a savings account that’s exclusively for your goal. I opened a savings account with Capital One and labeled it “Florida, Here I Come!” Seeing the account grow each month was a strong motivator and kept me on track.

A separate savings account can help ensure that you don’t dip into that fund for other things. Set a goal and stick to it. Tell yourself that when you meet your savings goal — say $5,000 — you’ll book that dream vacation.

As an added bonus, many banks offer cash incentives when you open a new account. That perk can help you get a head start on your savings.

Refinance Your Student Loans

If your student loan payments stretch your budget, consider refinancing your debt. In refinancing, you take out a new loan to pay off your old loans. The new loan could have different repayment terms and a lower interest rate. Refinancing can reduce your monthly payment and potentially save you money down the road.

While refinancing isn’t smart for everyone, it can help some borrowers find wiggle room in their budgets. You could become debt-free faster and enjoy what you love sooner.

For me, refinancing helped accelerate my debt repayment. Although I was funneling extra money from my side hustles toward my loans, my progress still seemed slow. My federal student loans had an interest rate of 6.8%. Because of the high interest rate, much of my payments went toward interest rather than principal.

By refinancing my debt with a private lender, I was able to drop the interest rate on the remaining $10,000 of my loans to 4%. Even if I made only minimum payments, I was on track to pay off my loans a year earlier and save nearly $1,000.

What’s Going to Make You Happy?

Personal finance is, above all things, personal. While many financial gurus will tell you there’s just one way to handle debt, you have to do what works for you. Balancing debt repayment with your life’s dreams can be a much more fulfilling approach — one that makes you happy while remaining fiscally responsible.

Kat Tretina is a contributor to Student Loan Hero who writes about student-loan repayment, side hustles and other personal-finance topics. Her work has appeared in the Huffington Post, Money magazine, Business Insider and more.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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