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الخميس، 4 أكتوبر 2018

How to buy and sell antiques at auction

Buying and selling items at auction remains very popular, if the plethora of antiques-based TV shows is anything to go by. But how simple is it to bid in the saleroom, and do antiques make good investments? Here’s what you need to know before the hammer falls

We’re a nation of antique lovers – 62% of Brits think they look good in our homes, with art deco the most popular style and anything Victorian or Georgian remaining enduringly popular.

Mary Claire Boyd from the Art & Antiques Fair, which carried out the research, says that even though we live in a disposable-furnishings era, there’s still very much a thirst for the style and craftsmanship of the past: “Antiques are appreciated for the qualities they can bring to our homes, particularly among those frustrated with spending money on furnishings that only last a few years.”

“Plus, antiques are unique, often come with a fascinating story and add individuality to your home. They are affordable and can also be combined effectively with contemporary art and furniture,” she adds.

However the research also revealed that two-thirds of Brits don’t own as many antiques as they would like to.


Antiques Roadshow expert Judith Miller (far right) has seen a revival in Chinese antiquities

What to buy

It’s too easy to offer glib advice like “buy mid-century modern and not 19th-century brown furniture,” but the antiques and collecting world is in constant flux, says Judith Miller, an expert on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow.

“Recently, Toby jugs, rare pot lids and fans are seeing a revival. Late 19th-century Chinese furniture is doing very well, and Chinese ceramics and works of art remain desirable, but the antiques market is unpredictable.

Buyers seek out rarity and condition,” she says.

Above all, she says, it’s important to get something you love: “Buy it because it makes you smile when you come downstairs in the morning.”

How to buy

Buying antiques is easier than people imagine. If you’re unfamiliar with the process, Andrew Aldridge at auctioneers Henry Aldridge & Sons in Devizes shares his pointers for success. “Always view the items you’d like to buy before the auction, finding out the flaws of the lots you are interested in. Get as much information as possible from the auctioneer. It’s their job to advise you of the age, history and estimated value.” he says.

“Always view the items you’d like to buy before the auction”

If you’re interested in a piece of furniture, check its dimensions so you know it’ll fit in your home. And bear in mind that so-called limited editions could stretch to being ‘limited’ to a million pieces.

Once you know what you are bidding for, the most vital piece of advice is to set your limit, says Mr Aldridge: “It’s easy to get carried away and bid more than you intended. You bid by raising your arm to the auctioneer – the days of scratching your nose and buying something are long gone! Many salerooms even offer a facility where you can bid on your smartphone or tablet.”

It’s important to know the hammer price isn’t the final price you pay, he adds: “The majority of auctioneers charge a buyer’s premium, so you need to factor this into your budget.

This is a set figure that’s charged by the auctioneer on the hammer price, normally 20% plus VAT, so you will be paying an extra £24 per £100 you spend.”


Finally, read the auctioneer’s storage conditions, as some of them charge fees if you don’t collect the item you’ve bought straight after the sale.

What we like to buy at auction (see below) reveals a snapshot of British taste, says Pontus Silfverstolpe of auctioneer portal Barnebys: “Time watching is right up there, alongside a thrifty attitude to finding an engagement ring and the old-fashioned interests of coin and stamp collecting. The list speaks of affection and loyalty for known things that also appealed to previous generations.”

Interestingly, what appeals to Brits differs from other European countries’ buying habits, says Mr Silfverstolpe: “For instance, in Germany and France, the top buys are sculpture and porcelain, so it’s more about culture.”

Should antiques be in your investment portfolio?

More than half (58%) of buyers believe antiques make a fantastic long-term investment, according to the Art & Antiques Fair study. However, financial adviser Danny Cox at Hargreaves Lansdown advises proceeding with caution.

“Antiques shouldn’t sit anywhere near your investment portfolio,” he says. “Most people who buy antiques do so to enjoy them or because they have a particular interest. Without specialist expertise, you are unlikely to make any money. You also have the costs of storage and security, which could easily mount up.”

Insuring your antiques

When it comes to protecting your auction buys, Ben Wilson at GoCompare.com warns that most contents insurance policies aren’t designed to cover antiques. “They’ll typically cover valuables such as watches, jewellery, stamp, coin or medal collections, pictures and other works of art, but for genuine antiques or items of high value, you will need to consider a specialist insurer or broker,” he says.

The top 10 things we buy at auction

1 Watches
2 Antiques
3 Cars
4 Jewellery (diamond rings)
5 Clocks
6 Stamps
7 Motorcycles
8 Royal Crown Derby (tableware)
9 British coins
10 Cameras

“The main issue is that standard home contents policies place a limit on the amount they will insure a single valuable item for.

This limit can vary hugely between policies, from £750 to £15,000, or a percentage of the value. And just over half of policies only offer cover between £2,000 to £5,000.”

It’s also worth noting that the limits on ‘valuables’ can apply to a single item, a pair or a set, which can make a big difference. “If you have a particularly valuable item or collection, you need to speak to your insurer to make sure you have exactly the cover you need,” says Mr Wilson.

“Your insurer may also place conditions on providing cover – for example, when you’re not wearing it, an expensive item of jewellery or watch may have to be kept in a locked safe – or on what to do if you have the item repaired,” he says.

“Art, antiques and jewellery can all increase in value over the years,” Mr Wilson adds, “so you will need up-to-date valuations to be able to make sure you are properly covered.”

How to sell at auction

When it comes to selling your item, first get an idea of the value from an antiques price guide or handbook such as the 2019-2020 Miller’s Collectables Handbook & Price Guide by Judith Miller or a website such as Worthpoint.co.uk.

When choosing your auctioneer, word of mouth is a good option. “Make an appointment with the auctioneer to visit them with your item,” says Judith Miller. “Or send images highlighting details and marks, together with any documentation you have. Or you can go to an auction house’s valuation day. It will then recommend a pre-sale estimate and advise on the sale type and date.”

“It’s worth checking what’s in your attic”


Before committing, you should confirm the selling charges, typically commission, VAT and a charge for listing the item. Some auctioneers also charge for photographing your item, so ensure you are aware of all the fees before you sign a contract to confirm you want your items sold.

Auctioneers will generally send you a pre-sale advice before the auction; this will tell you the lot numbers of the items you are selling, along with estimates and reserves.

If you can, go along on the sale day to watch your lots being sold. After the sale there will normally be a wait of a month or so while the auction house processes the payments for the auction and then you will receive your sale proceeds, minus the charges.

What to sell

Last year, rock singer Alice Cooper found a rare Andy Warhol silkscreen print that he’d forgotten he’d put into storage in the 1970s. Another version of the same image sold in 2014 for some £8 million!

You may not find a Warhol, but it might still be worth checking what’s in your attic: “We have great finds on the Antiques Roadshow all the time,” says Ms Miller. “Steiff bears, Dinky toys, Georgian shoe buckles and a 1962 Murano bird all fetch good prices. Also costume jewellery and vintage in general. But a standout item for me was a Christine Dior 1965 couture collection necklace bought in Glasgow for £5, worth £800!”

Liz loves the buzz of the saleroom

Retired housekeeper Liz Moore (left) from Milton Keynes loves the buzz of an auction. “I got into buying antiques when I moved into a Victorian property some 35 years ago,” explains Liz, 67.

“I renovated and restored the house back to its original character and wanted to furnish it with items that complemented it. Friends recommended local auction house Charles Ross in Woburn, Bedfordshire as the perfect place to pick up furniture, pictures and objets d’art – Charles Ross is now an expert on the BBC ’s Bargain Hunt and Antiques Road Trip.”

Liz says she knows many people like to buy online, but she still prefers to go to a live auction for the atmosphere: “I enjoy the excitement of clinching a winning bid and it’s fascinating to watch others bidding. My advice is always set yourself a limit, not forgetting to factor in the auctioneer’s fee. I typically spend £50 each month buying an item at auction. I’ve also sold a few items at auction: my best seller was a pair of 1980s Royal Doulton otters, which fetched £150.”

 

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12 Steps to Protect Your Finances When Leaving an Abusive Relationship


Note: This article doesn’t contain any depiction of physical or sexual violence, but does detail financial and emotional abuse in relationships.

Lisa Orban was married to her abuser for three years. In 1990, she left after he threatened to kill her and their two young children.

She was 20 years old.

Her financial situation in the marriage? “Bad, in a nutshell,” she recalls.

Not unusual for the time, her husband was the main breadwinner, and he managed the finances.

“Whenever there was a chance that I might make enough money or make more money than him or do anything to upset his financial apple cart, so to speak, he would come in and sabotage it.”

She lost multiple jobs because of his meddling.

She moved with him from her hometown in Illinois to Arizona for college, where she’d won a four-year scholarship to study psychology. Before she could start, he contacted the university and told them she’d decided to drop out.

“Imagine my surprise when I go to registration day and find out that my scholarship is gone,” she says.

He even had control of the mailbox. He took her key, though she thought she’d just lost it, and put off replacing it. That had major, unexpected financial ramifications.

“It wasn't until after we were divorced that I found out that I had not paid off my student loan.” The $4,000 loan ultimately cost her $38,000 to repay, she says.

The checks Orban thought were going into the mail were not, and the missed payment notices from her loan providers weren’t getting to her.

He kept control of the checking account.

He wouldn’t let her use the car alone.

He knew how much money she earned, and he would accompany her to the bank to deposit her paychecks.

He signed up for credit cards in her name.

By the time Orban left and filed for divorce, she was $80,000 in debt and didn’t even know about it.

What is Financial Abuse?

About 1 in 4 women and 1 in 7 men will experience severe intimate partner violence in their lifetime, according to a Centers for Disease Control and Prevention report.

Domestic violence and abuse comes in many forms, whether it’s physical, emotional, psychological or sexual — but it can also be financial. Likely, it’s some mix of these, but not always all of them.

Of those who experience violence, 98% also experience financial abuse.

“Like all abuse, financial abuse takes a lot of forms, but it's all controlling behavior; power and control,” explains Casey Harden, senior vice president of Strategic Initiatives and Membership at YWCA USA. “Imagine tightening the reigns on the financial condition of the home, so that there's limited options.”

Abusive partners may leave you out of major decisions and purchase a home that’s well out of your family’s budget, for example. They may run up credit card debt without their partner’s knowledge or input, lie about paying bills or damage valuable property.

In addition to safety concerns, victims of domestic violence often stay in abusive relationship because of a lack of financial resources.

“Many survivors, even after they've left, often return because of finances,” says Kim Pentico, director of the Economic Justice Program at the National Network to End Domestic Violence.

Michelle Kuehner, a survivor of domestic violence who is now a financial advisor and author of The Money Diet blog, explains:  

“More often than not, the abuser has made the victim feel as if they are dependent upon the abuser. That without the help of the abuser, the victim could not survive financially in the world, and it is only by the grace of the abuser that the victim has a roof over their head, and food on the table.”

If you’re in a bad situation, we want to do our part in empowering you to move forward.

The Penny Hoarder features a ton of content to help you understand your finances and improve your financial situation. But it can be tough to see how it pertains to you when you feel like you have zero control over your financial life.

Here, I try to put it into context.

I spoke with financial, legal and relationship experts, as well as domestic violence advocates to bring you resources, advice and action steps to prepare you to leave and recover your finances afterward.

6 Steps to Prepare Your Finances Before Leaving

The largest hurdle you face in an abusive relationship is getting back your independence,” Kuehner says.

“Only when you take back the feeling or idea that you are not completely dependent on another can you move towards financial independence. And only then can you successfully remove yourself from that type of relationship.”

Even then, it’s easier said than done.

In addition to the financial hurdles, Harden repeats a fact many of us have heard often: “Lethality for an individual and her loved ones goes up drastically when she makes the decision to leave, when she leaves and the time period following.”

That’s why before you do anything, we recommend this step:

1. Connect With a Victim Advocate

Harden and other experts urge anyone trying to leave an abusive relationship to work with a victim advocate.

These people are trained and experienced, so they know how to help you plan to leave safely and quietly. They can point out potential pitfalls and let you know what major financial hurdles to expect.

How to get in touch with local advocates:

  • Call the National Domestic Violence Hotline: 1-800-799-SAFE (7233) or TTY: 1-800-787-3224. The national hotline can get you in touch with an organization in your area.
  • Statewide advocacy groups can also connect you with local advocates.
  • Your local YWCA has resources to fight domestic violence, including shelters and services around the country.

We have additional recommendations for your financial health, but can’t tell you what’s best or what’s safe for your situation.

You’re the best at assessing your own safety, so listen to your own instincts, work with an advocate and only consider these steps if you know it’s safe.

2. Save Money

“Be sure you have liquid funds held in an account in your name only,” says Allison Alexander, a financial advisor at Savant Capital Management. She also recommends having credit cards in your name alone.

Allstate’s financial empowerment curriculum includes advice on how to build a solid financial foundation, including places where you could find loans.

If you don’t have access to a loan, see if there are other ways to secure money for yourself that your partner doesn’t have access to.

Here are some creative ways to make extra money:

You can also keep an eye out for influxes of cash your partner doesn’t know about or have access to.

“A lot of survivors … wait until that tax return comes, and that's a nice little chunk to get started on,” Pentico says.

A bonus at work may be a similar lifeline.

You may be able to work with the human resources department at work to automatically deposit part of your paycheck into a separate bank account.

Catherine Scrivano, a Phoenix–based financial planner, says HR may also be able to help you make an adjustment to your W-4 to help you receive more money with each paycheck that you can save or invest throughout the year.

3. Make Copies of Important Documents

“Make copies of all financial documents you can find, e.g., tax returns, bank statements, investment statements, mortgage/loan information, car titles, paystubs, etc.,” Alexander says.

You can simply snap a picture of these documents with your phone and email it to a friend. Or store them in a cloud drive that you — and only you — can access from anywhere, like Google Drive.

4. Cut Ties and Open a New Bank Account

Before opening your own account, Harden recommends, you’ll need a new mailing address — a P.O. box could work — and an email address your partner doesn’t know about.

Harden also suggests you contact your bank to update your account’s security questions, if your partner already has access to an account in your name.

“Your husband of 10, 15 years probably knows the answers to most of your security questions,” she points out, “especially if he's been actively working to know them.”

She says you can tell your bank the question you want to use. You don’t have to stick with a default question your partner might know the answer to.

If you can, set up separate accounts your partner doesn’t know about, or at least can’t access.

Also, “remove your personal items from a safe deposit box if it is held jointly,” Alexander says. And “establish your own safe deposit box at another bank and place your financial documents and sentimental items, including jewelry, pictures (or) valuables there.”

5. Find a Financial Advisor

“Find a supportive financial advisor, therapist and friends who will encourage you during the bleak times and celebrate your successes,” Scrivano recommends.

If you have the resources to hire a professional financial advisor — who works for you alone, not you and your partner together — great.

If you can’t afford to work with a professional, utilize your local library or Parks and Recreation department for resources. It may have financial literacy classes, support groups and literature to help you.

Even financially-savvy friends and family can offer advice.

Pentico often tells survivors, “There's somebody in your life, more than likely, that seems to know what's going on when it comes to money and finances, whether it's a co-worker or a family member. Reach out to them.”

6. Find an Attorney

When Kuehner was preparing to divorce her abusive husband, she started by meeting with attorneys.

“I scheduled appointments to meet with all of the best attorneys in town. … All in all, I had meetings with over 85% of the local lawyers in a matter of a couple of weeks…

“If I had an introductory meeting with a particular attorney, my ex-husband wouldn’t be able to use them. It could be considered a conflict of interest. … By narrowing his options, and forcing him to use a less-experienced professional, I gained some ground in the divorce.”

California-based family law expert Amey Telkikar confirmed this tactic, though called it “unsavory” for typical situations.

“An in-person meeting going over the circumstances almost certainly will (include confidential information), resulting in a conflict of interest. A lawyer may still represent the other spouse, but only with the informed written consent of both spouses,” Telkikar explained.

He recommended, “It is in the best interest of a spouse to consult at least one reputable attorney as soon as they suspect or learn of a possible filing for divorce.”

If you don’t have money to hire a lawyer or don’t feel safe conducting this kind of business on your own, a victim advocate can help you discover the resources available to you.

6 Steps to Rebuild Your Finances After Leaving

Unfortunately, Lisa Orban didn’t make a plan to leave her abuser. She did what she pointed out many survivors do:

“Most abused women do not ‘plan’ their escape, they run blindly for their lives when the situation reaches deadly levels, and then pick up the pieces afterward,” Orban explains.

“If you have a golden opportunity to escape, that's generally what people do,” Orban adds.

“They look for a moment — a credit card left unattended, a check that unexpectedly arrives that you somehow got access to, a Christmas bonus from your work that your spouse doesn't know about,” Orban says. “These are things you look at, and you go, ‘This is it. This is my chance.’”

When you see that opportunity, she said, “You grab it and you go.”

And then what?

Once you’ve left and you’re safe, your greatest financial hurdle may be not knowing what you’re working with.

Start by figuring that out.

1. Get a Copy of Your Credit Report

Nearly everyone I spoke with recommended one simple, important first step to rebuilding your finances: Get a copy of your credit report.

If you haven’t had control of your finances for years, you may have no idea what state they’re in. To create a rebuilding plan, you have to first know what you’re dealing with.

Do you have credit card debt?

Is an unpaid mortgage in your name?

Are you behind on medical bills?

Your credit report will give you this information.

How to get a free copy of your credit report:

  • Contact the three major credit reporting bureaus to get a free copy from each. They’re legally required to give you a free credit report once every 12 months. This FTC guide explains how to request your report.
  • Get your credit score and “credit report card” from Credit Sesame. This website breaks down exactly what’s on your credit report in layman’s terms, how it affects your score and how you might address it. (Note: We sometimes partner with this company, but Credit Sesame did NOT pay to be mentioned in this post.)

Your credit history can affect a lot of what you do going forward.

Someone will likely pull it when you apply for an apartment, mortgage, vehicle loan or credit cards, before hiring you for a job or opening a new bank account. It’ll affect how much you pay to rent a car or get a new cell phone. It could even affect your car insurance rates.

Once you know what’s in your credit history, you can figure out how to fix it.

2. Find Resolution on Lingering Debts

Harden recommends resolving the debts you find on your credit report as soon as possible.

“Close out the relationship with the credit union and close out all the loans and be done, so the relationship is over, period,” she says.

Closing accounts and making agreements to eliminate debt quickly may not be your greatest financial option, Harden says, but these steps help you cut ties with your abuser, which is still vital.

Your credit report should show you which creditors you’re dealing with. Reach out to them directly and ask what you need to do to eliminate those debts.

Scrivano points out a divorce agreement isn’t enough to get you out of debts you shared with your partner. For example, even if the agreement says credit card debt is your ex’s responsibility, the creditor doesn’t know — or care.

You’ll likely have to take further action to clear your name, she explains. Contact your creditors to determine exactly what needs to be done — and what, in the end, is your responsibility.

“Hold your advocate accountable for that kind of thing,” Scrivano says, referring to your financial or legal advisors. They should know your divorce agreement’s reach and advise you accordingly.

To prevent your ex from building new debt in your name, Telkikar recommends placing a 90-day fraud alert with the major credit bureaus. That way, businesses must verify your identity before issuing credit in your name.

To initiate a fraud alert with one of the bureaus:

You only have to place an initial fraud alert with one bureau. It will contact the others, the FTC explains. You can renew the alert after 90 days as often as you need.

3. Create a New Budget

Next, Harden says, a survivor has to spend time “learning to budget in the new reality, whatever that new reality is.”

With control over your finances, you can set up new savings and investing plans to “become proactive about having full ownership over (your) finances,” not just reactive to your situation.

“There's financial stability, and then there's financial vitality,” she explains.

Without the internet to teach her, Orban learned how to manage her budget through trial and error. She always kept a detailed budget.

“I ended up itemizing my life on a day-to-day basis and seeing how much I had coming in and how much, realistically, I had to pay out to function in a normal way,” she says.

Read our tips on how to budget if you’ve never done it before:

4. Rebuild Your Credit

Even if you have damaged credit, you’re not doomed.

“Since my credit had been damaged a bit, I wanted to rebuild that as well,” Kuehner explains.  “Taking out share secured loans … was the easiest way I knew. Within a year and a half my credit had been repaired.”

With a secured loan, she explains, “the bank freezes a specified amount of money in your account until payments are made. Each payment frees up the same amount of principal.”

A secured credit card is a similar way to build or repair your credit,

It’s similar to a debit card — you put down a cash deposit and can use that amount in credit.

Unlike a debit card, secured cards report your payment, balance and other relevant behavior to credit bureaus. So it’s a way to establish a credit history if yours is shot or nonexistent.

Read more tips for rebuilding your credit:

5. If You Need to, Find a New Job and Housing

If your abuser didn’t allow you to keep a job, the effect can ripple beyond your lack of control in the relationship.

“It could interrupt a work history,” Harden points out, “or prevent a work history from ever developing in such a way that an employer would find the candidate to be compelling as a potential employee.”

If you’ve lost your job, read these tips:

“Your local domestic violence program has relationships with community resources, so while they may not provide (job placement) themselves, they certainly have built partnerships and relationships with those who do, so to reach out to them,” Pentico advises.

Community colleges can also be a great resource for job placement.

If you want to go back to school, you can even find scholarships specifically for survivors of domestic violence.

If your relationship has forced you to take a break from the workforce, but you don’t want to return to college, you might be able to ease back in through a return-to-work internship.

If you’re able to live with friends or family to cut expenses and save for a while, go for it.

If you’re ready to find your own place (or not ready, but need to, anyway), here are some tips for getting the best deal out of your next rental.

On a positive note, Kuehner adds, “Replacing household items can be done fairly reasonably as well. Social media sites have ‘online garage sale’ postings, and you can pick up items really cheap. Hitting the Goodwill and other thrift stores are a great idea too. You can find some great treasures at rock-bottom prices.”

6. Prepare for Financial Success

The final step is refocusing on financial vitality, Harden says.

What does a thriving, successful life look like for you? Is there a business you need to reclaim, a career you need to start over or education you need to finish?

If you’re relying on financial support from loved ones, these 13 steps could help you cut the cord.

Focusing on financial independence will take you from reacting to a bad situation to being proactive about your own success.

And remember, you don’t have to go through it again.

Remember going forward, “Being in a relationship, regardless if married or not, does not mean you have to commingle all funds,” Kuehner says.

“I am a huge proponent of a mine, yours and ours type of finance. It is a simple technique, but can have enormously positive effects,” she explains.

To maintain financial independence and vitality in the future, know you don’t have to relinquish control to your partner. Early on, negotiate a split of resources and financial responsibilities that satisfies and respects both of your needs.

Starting Over

Now, Orban is retired and has been writing about her experiences for three years.

Her first book, “It’ll Feel Better When It Quits Hurting,” is a memoir of her life before leaving her ex-husband.

Her second will cover how she rebuilt her life after leaving.

Since 1990, Orban remarried and divorced her second husband. She has five children altogether, and one grandchild. One son is in college, one is still in high school and the rest are grown.

She eventually went back to college and earned her associate degree in psychology.

Healing emotionally and financially took a lot of time and work. But a small epiphany late one night made her realize she could do it.

“(I realized) I didn't have to wait for time to heal all wounds. I could make steps and go forward and go, ‘I am in control of my life now — me — and I can make these changes.’”

If you or anyone you know needs help, contact the National Domestic Violence Hotline to speak with an advocate or be connected with someone in your area: 1-800-799-SAFE (7233) / TTY: 1-800-787-3224

Dana Sitar (@danasitar) is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. She’s written for Huffington Post, Entrepreneur.com, Writer’s Digest and more, attempting humor wherever it’s allowed (and sometimes where it’s not).

The Penny Hoarder Promise: We provide accurate, reliable information. Here’s why you can trust us and how we make money.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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The Best Investment to Buy – Or Is Gold Over-hyped?

Should You Invest ALL Your Money In Stocks?!

If you ask your grandfather what he is invested in, he will probably say stocks, bonds, and possibly precious metals.

Well, times have changed.

These days, there are a lot of assets you could potentially invest in.

New age investors are testing the waters with investments like cryptocurrencies, peer to peer lending, crowdfunded real estate investing, micro venture capital investments… The list goes on!

Each year, there are more and more options when it comes to what you can do with your hard earned money. 

Today I’ll be unpacking some of your best investment options and helping you decide how much to invest in stocks.

Traditional Investments

investing in stocks on the computer

When you are investing in any asset, you should look for a long history of returns from that investment.

You want to make sure you’re choosing an asset that has been making people money for decades, if not centuries.

While you may not see these returns every year, you want to make sure your investment is consistently generating returns over a long period of time, which is one of the cons of new age investments.

While they are exciting, these options have a very limited operating history compared to old school investments like stocks and bonds. 

The Stock Market

Let’s take the stock market for example.

The stock market has been making people rich for over 100 years, creating billionaires like Warren Buffet.

Long-term buy and hold investors can expect an average 10% return from the stock market over time, based on the S&P 500.

It is important to understand, however, that 10% might not be your experience every single year.

Some years you could yield a 15% return while others could see a loss of 20% or more.

Higher risk investments like stocks are going to have more volatility and fluctuations with the price. 

Bonds

Now, let’s take a look at bonds.

When it comes to investing in bonds, there are three categories:

  • Municipal bonds: debt securities issued by states or local governments used to fund projects such as road construction or other public services.
  • Government/US Treasury bonds: debt securities issued by the United States Government used to fund government spending.
  • Corporate bonds: debt securities issued by corporations to fund ongoing operations.

Of these three categories, government bonds are considered to be the safest and lowest risk investment, but each of them can be good short-term investment options at the very least.

On average, CNN reports government bonds have returned around 5 to 6% per year since 1926. 

Since stocks have historically had some of the highest returns among the assets mentioned, people often think about investing all of their money in stocks.

Most investment portfolios include a mix of stocks and bonds, but maybe you should consider investing 100% in stocks.

This strategy would maximize your returns, right?

Here are a few reasons why you might (or might not) want to throw all your investments into stocks.

First of all, let’s consider when people typically consider investing everything in stocks.

When Not To Go All In

People want to buy whatever asset is doing the best.

They hear about friends and family members making a killing in the stock market and they want a bigger piece of the action.

The problem is, stocks are typically roaring ahead in the late stages of a bull market.

In the stock market, there are times when stocks are going up in price (bull market) and times when stocks are falling in price (bear market).

The unfortunate truth is, the worst time to move into 100% stocks is during a bull market.

People who do so are often doubling down on an asset which is due for a correction.

What you will find when you become a seasoned investor is that the right move often feels wrong.

Your best bet is to go against the prevailing trend of the market.

Here is one of my favorite expressions about the stock market:

Bulls make money from rising stock prices. Bears make money from falling stock prices. Sheep follow the herd to the slaughterhouse. If everyone else is doubling down on the stock market going all in, and you do the same, you are following the herd. 

The same is true for people who buy individual stocks.

People tend to focus on the stocks hitting 52-week highs, not 52-week lows.

They will pile in on a market high flyer expecting it to keep on soaring!

The saying is “buy low, sell high” not “buy high, sell higher.”

In this situation, novice investors are often taught a valuable lesson: it is rarely a good idea to invest in stocks at all-time highs.

Why?

These soaring stocks are being discussed on all the news outlets. They are getting the most exposure, and as a result, more money is being directed toward them.

As more and more people pile into these high flyers, the price climbs higher and higher, giving investors the false perception that this stock has nowhere to go but up.

Often times, the exact opposite is true and the stock has nowhere to go but down! 

When To Go All In

If there is ever a time to move into 100% stocks, it is when stocks are undervalued in a bear market.

In the words of Warren Buffett, be greedy when others are fearful!

As a general rule of thumb, you typically want to do the exact opposite of what everyone else is doing.

If your friends are talking about selling bonds and putting all that money in the stock market, it might be a good time to sell some stocks and buy bonds.

When everyone is getting in, you should be getting out!

Another option, which is often the best, is to do nothing.

Here’s what I mean: If you have a diversified portfolio of stocks, bonds, and other assets, consider just holding on to what you have.

It does not matter what everyone else is doing!

When it comes to investing, activity is the enemy. Activity results in commission costs and this takes money out of your account that would originally have remained invested. 

Now, here is one scenario where you might consider investing 100% in stocks:

If you are a young investor, you have many years ahead of you to allow investments to trend upward and you have significantly higher risk tolerance.

As a young person, you might decide to invest all of your money in stocks due to the higher returns.

Your portfolio will be more volatile, but overall you should see a greater return in the long run.

Then as you get older, you can diversify and allocate some of your money into bonds or other investments. 

Age Matters

If you follow the conventional asset allocation model, you will subtract your age from 100 to get the percentage of your money you should place in stocks.

If you are 20 years old, you should have 80% in stocks and 20% in bonds. 

But there is one problem with this model; people are living longer!

Since people are living longer, the asset allocation model needs to be adjusted.

The traditional model is likely too conservative for most people these days.

Following the updated model, a 20 year old would have 100% allocation into stocks and 0% in bonds.

So for a young person, most would say it is acceptable to have 100% of your money in stocks. 

The goal of investing is to have security in the future.

You are probably working now, maybe one you don’t wish to stay at for the rest of your life.

For most people, this security is the ability to retire one day.

As you grow older and get closer to retirement, you want to have less money involved in stocks and more money involved in lower risk investments like bonds.

Once you reach retirement age, the goal of your portfolio shifts from growing your wealth to primarily preserving your wealth.

If you are a 20-year-old and you have decades ahead of you, investing 100% in stocks makes sense.

As an older person, that level of risk is excessive and in some cases dangerous.

So Does Your Risk Tolerance

Here is something else to consider: If you are going to go 100% in stocks, you will need to have very thick skin.

While it is true that investors will see better returns from stocks if they stay the course, it is far easier said than done.

During a stock market crash, you could see a 20% or higher correction take place with your portfolio.

Everyone around you will be selling stocks and moving into different assets.  You could possibly see your account decline week after week for a year or more.

The question is, will you be tempted to sell and cut your losses? 

Consider the bear market of 2007 to 2009. In this 17 month period, the S&P 500 lost about half of its value.

How would you react in that situation?

If you were like some people who were 100% invested in stocks at the time, you shot yourself in the foot by selling out of fear of greater losses going forward.

Think of it this way: If your portfolio could take a 50% drop and you would be unaffected, you could invest in a 100% stock portfolio to maximize your returns. Would you be able to do that?

For most people, a blend of stocks, bonds, and cash will suit them well.

Others may decide to diversify into other assets like real estate, precious metals or even new age investments like cryptocurrencies.

The case for this type of diversification is that you want the assets in your portfolio to be doing different things at different times.

Maybe your stocks are down 20%, but the gold in your safe is going up!

The goal of diversification is to maximize returns and minimize risk by investing in a number of different assets. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket! 

For those who do decide to invest 100% in stocks, apply these same rules of diversification to your stock investments.

Rather than investing all of your money in one stock or a few stocks, consider investing in funds that give you exposure to the whole market.

Beyond that, you should consider exposure to different markets entirely, like international markets or emerging markets.

Spread your money out! 

Breaking Down Bitcoin

bitcoinLet’s consider the Bitcoin investors for a moment.

In 2017, Bitcoin was the hottest asset you could own. You could buy Bitcoin and see a 100% return that week!

All over the internet, you were hearing about people making drastic moves to place an all-in bet on Bitcoin.

Believe it or not, a number of people even mortgaged their homes to buy as much as they could!

These Bitcoin investors were not following the basic rules of diversification because they had all their eggs in one basket. They were placing an all-in bet on a new asset with a very limited history of generating returns. 

Bitcoin hit a peak of just under $20,000 in 2017.

By January of 2018, it was trading at $13,500, and $7,500 by February.

These unfortunate late stage Bitcoin investors experienced as much as a 60% loss or more in the course of two months.

For many people, this was a valuable lesson on why you need to diversify.

Remember, people tend to double down on an investment at the worst time! 

Bottom Line

Every investor is going to have a different level of risk tolerance.

A young person with a high-risk tolerance might decide to go the route of investing 100% in stocks, but this is probably not the best idea for everyone.

As you get older, you want to lower the risk you are exposing yourself to with your investment portfolio, typically by allocating more money into bonds as you grow older.

While bonds have historically had lower returns, they are significantly less risky than their alternatives.

It is important to remember one of the goals of diversification is to prop your portfolio up in a bear market.

When stocks sell off, investors often flee to bonds and precious metals inflating the price.

Perhaps a 100% stock portfolio idea is not as glamorous as it seems on paper.

This is a post from Ryan Scribner, author of the blog Investing Simple where he aims to keep personal finance and investments, well, simple. He’s also the face of his own popular YouTube Channel, where he’s got a massive library of videos for you to watch; I recommend you check him out.

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It’s National Pizza Month, and Pizza Hut Is Going Promo Code Crazy About It


Want to hear a joke about pizza?

Never mind, it’s too cheesy.

If you haven’t gotten the memo yet, October is National Pizza Month. And if you’re a fan of Pizza Hut, then get ready to celebrate with a different deal every week.

Get This Deal from Pizza Hut for National Pizza Month

Pizza Hut is kicking off National Pizza Month with 35% off all menu-priced items. Just order online and use the promo code “35OFFONLINE”.

This deal is available until Sunday, Oct. 7. And rumor has it that free dessert and breadsticks will be included in upcoming deals for National Pizza Month, so be sure to keep an eye on Pizza Hut’s Facebook and Twitter for a new promo code each week.

And if you order too much pizza (as if too much pizza is a thing), then try this trick for reheating leftover pizza.

Jessica Gray is an editorial assistant at The Penny Hoarder. She couldn’t stop speaking in pizza puns after writing this post.

The Penny Hoarder Promise: We provide accurate, reliable information. Here’s why you can trust us and how we make money.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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How This Mechanic Paid off His Debt and Raised His Credit Score by 219 Points

How Financial Independence / Retiring Early Actually Works

Jennifer writes in with a great question:

I don’t really understand how early retirement works unless you have a giant income. If you have $1 million, that’s only $40K a year for 25 years, right? And it doesn’t count inflation which is going to make things progressively harder. I understand investing helps but that makes things even more risky. Saving even $1 million is ridiculously hard for the average American. How can this work? Can you explain how it could ever work for the average American?

The idea of “early retirement” and “financial independence” (often described under the FIRE acronym, for Financial Independence / Retire Early) is having a minor cultural moment right now. I’ve heard mention of it on NPR and seen articles about it in quite a few publications. A number of readers have sent me this article about Suze Orman’s claim that you need at least $5 million in the bank to retire early.

Walking away from the grind of a career in one’s forties or fifties seems like a wonderful thought, but for most people, it can feel like a pipe dream. It’s usually described and treated as completely unrealistic for most people and requiring a huge income to be able to pull it off.

Yet, it’s a goal that Sarah and I are working towards. Our combined income is within a reasonable stone’s throw of the average American household income and we’re on a path to be able to easily retire in our fifties.

How does the math really work for all of this? Can the “average American” really retire safely in their fifties or even in their forties if they plan ahead carefully? Let’s dig into the numbers and find out!

Defining the “Average American” and Other Basics

The first thing we need to do is dive into this idea of the “average American.” This is a very tricky thing to answer, because the income of the average American household depends on how you define “household” and also how you define “average.”

First, let’s consider different meanings of the word “household.” According to 2014 tax data, the average income by household varies a lot depending on the type of household. For example, the average married couple filing jointly in 2014 reported earning $117,795, while the average single non-widowed person reported earning $34,940 for the year. That’s a huge difference. According to the Census Bureau, the average household income in America across all households was $72,641.

So, should we use that number? Well… it depends on how important you consider the “average” number. The “average” household income means you add up all incomes in America and divide by the number of households, right? That’s great, except that the households making a huge income unfairly skew the average. For example, if you have one household making $10,000,000 a year and 99 households making $10,000 a year, the average household in that group is making $109,900. That doesn’t seem like a sensible number to use, does it? That $109,900 number really isn’t useful to anyone – not to the family making $10,000,000 nor to the 99 families making $10,000.

A better number to use here is the median income. The median income is simply the number you get when you line up all of the household incomes in America by the size of their income, then find the one in the middle of the line. So, in that $10,000,000 example above, the median income is $10,000, because that would be the income of the family in the middle of the line. The US Census Bureau reports that the median household income in 2017, the most recent year available, was $61,372. So, that’s the number I’m going to use.

(Notice the difference between the average household income – $72,641 in 2014, the most recent data I could find – and the median household income – $61,372. Why the disparity? As I noted above, it’s because high income earners skew the average upwards. Some people earn way more than others in America.)

So, we have our baseline income – $61,372.

For inflation, we’re going to use a 2% rate, which is pretty normal inflation over the last 20 years. It has been somewhat higher at times and lower at different times, but that’s a reasonable average.

We’re also going to use an average annual return for our investments of 10%, which is the long term average annual return of the S&P 500. If you invest in something like the Vanguard 500 over the very long term, you’re going to get a 10% return on average for your money, and it’s something pretty much anyone can do.

The Trinity Study – How It Works

Let’s turn our attention now to the “Trinity Study.” The “Trinity Study” refers to a research study done in 1998 by three professors at Trinity University, entitled Retirement Savings: Choosing a Withdrawal Rate That Is Sustainable.

The study concluded a number of things, but the big conclusion that stands out for a lot of people is that a retiree with a suitably allocated $1 million portfolio could withdraw $40,000 the first year, give herself a cost-of-living adjustment every year afterwards, and have a 98% chance of the portfolio lasting at least 30 years.

In other words, if you’re suitably invested (meaning an investment portfolio that’s largely stock-based – in this case, 75% stocks and 25% bonds), you can withdraw 4% of that initial investment each year and have a 98% chance of the investments lasting for at least 30 years.

If you look at some of the details of that paper, however, if you cut your withdrawal rate to 3% and invest in a portfolio that’s either 50%/50% between stocks and bonds or 75%/25% stocks and bonds, you have an extremely high chance of that portfolio lasting forever. If you cut the withdrawal rate to 2.5%, it becomes a mortal lock.

So, let’s say you have $1 million in investments and you invest it ideally according to this study – something like 75% stocks and 25% bonds.

You decide to take out $40,000 a year. There’s a 98% chance that your investment will last for 30 years or more.

Let’s say you decide to go for a 3% withdrawal rate and withdraw $30,000 a year. In that case, there’s a 100% chance that your investment will last for 30 years or more and a very good chance that it will last through the end of your life.

Let’s say you decide to go for a super-safe 2.5% withdrawal rate and withdraw $25,000 a year. In that case, it is exceedingly likely that your investment will last through the end of your life, no matter how long you live.

The conclusion of the Trinity Study can best be summed up as this: if you invest your money sensibly and withdraw it at a relatively low and steady rate, it almost certainly will last for the rest of your life.

The Trinity Study Meets the Median American

Remember, earlier on we noted that the median American household brings in $61,372 a year. Let’s assume that this family would want to be able to pull that much out of their investments each year.

If they’re going for the fairly aggressive 4% model, the one that has a 98% chance of success over 30 years, they’d need $1,534,300 to invest.

If they’re going for the 3% model, the one that’s 100% likely to last 30 years and pretty likely to last a lifetime, they’d need $2,045,800 to invest.

If they’re going for the 2.5% model, the one that’s extremely likely to last a lifetime, they’d need $2,454,880 to invest.

Those numbers seem pretty large, but there are a bunch of factors to consider that make it a lot more doable than one might think.

How Much Will You Actually Need When Retired?

Most models of early retirement vary in terms of how much money a person would have to have per year when retired.

For example, one model, often referred to as “lean FIRE,” leans on the idea that a household really doesn’t need that much income to make ends meet if they’re living a simple lifestyle and don’t need to keep up with the rat race. In this model, a family might withdraw, say, 125% of the federal poverty level for a household of four, which is $31,375. Remember, this family no longer needs to work – they don’t have to commute, they don’t have to eat out at lunch, they don’t have to buy work clothes, and they have a whole lot more spare time to do things for themselves. Plus, they’re also paying much lower taxes. This family’s standard of living really wouldn’t decline all that much, to tell the truth.

If you look at the $31,375 a year model, the aggressive 4%/year strategy needs only $784,375 in investments to make it, and even the super-conservative 2.5% strategy only needs $1,255,000.

The reality is that if you’re intending to live a “lean” retirement lifestyle, the threshold of savings goes down substantially.

For Sarah and myself, we’re aiming to not live this lean, but we are aiming for a much leaner lifestyle than we have right now. Sarah will no longer commute, for example, and we’ll no longer have five people living under our roof, just two. Those things are going to save us a bundle compared to how things are right now. Sarah and I don’t live a particularly extravagant lifestyle, either.

Another Option: Barista Mode

Another approach to this problem that many people take is that they plan on getting a part time job of some kind to supplement their income, just because they enjoy the routine of working and the interaction with coworkers and customers, so they aim for a low-pressure and low-intensity service job that doesn’t need to pay well, but supplements their “financial independence” planning. Others might just want to work at a “dream job” that won’t necessarily pay well, but they’re going to really enjoy the work, like someone taking a job as secretary at their church or something akin to that. This is sometimes called “Barista FI;” I like to call it “barista mode.”

If someone works for 20 hours a week for 40 weeks a year making $10 an hour, that provides $8,000 of their annual income. If you combine that with the “lean” numbers described above, you knock the required “lean” number down to $23,375 per year, which brings even the super-safe 2.5% per year model down under $1 million.

What About Inflation?

One tricky part of this entire discussion is the specter of inflation. Like it or not, inflation happens, and prices are constantly going up. As I noted at the start, 2% a year is a pretty reasonable estimate, but that means that every 30 years or so, all prices will double. The things you buy for $25,000 right now will cost $50,000 in thirty years.

This is where the model begins to struggle a little bit, because it makes no assumptions for inflation. The numbers start getting sticky, but the strategy I’ve seen discussed the most often is to start off with the 2.5% per year model, then slowly increase that amount along with inflation. During the early years, you should be withdrawing so little that your investment total is still going up rapidly, perhaps enough so that the inflationary increases won’t end up causing a disaster.

In short, inflation is the big reason why I lean strongly toward the 2.5% model.

The Role of Social Security

What role does Social Security play in all of this? The vast majority of Americans will begin receiving Social Security benefits of some kind when they get into their sixties. What about that?

Many people like to calculate early retirement numbers assuming nothing from Social Security, treating it as a “bonus.” They do this out of doubt for the future of the system.

Others rely on Social Security for their calculations, treating it as a significant reduction in how much they’ll have to withdraw when they hit a certain age. This often makes plans using a 3% or even a 4% withdraw rate last into perpetuity.

For example, a person making the median annual household income – – would start receiving $2,103 a month, or $25,236 a year, in Social Security benefits at age 67. If you’ve chosen a “lean FIRE” model, that reduces your annual withdrawal from $31,375 down to $6,139. You won’t need much in savings at all to live for a very long time on $6,139 per year, even if it creeps up with inflation.

I tend to assume Social Security will be there for me at the currently stated benefit levels. If it goes away, there’s a very good chance that there’s economic calamity happening on such a level that this entire plan really doesn’t work.

So, What Do You Really Need?

This starts to seem really complicated, but it really all comes down to how much money you’re going to need to take out each year to live. The less money you need, the less you’re going to have to have in order to retire early.

Sarah and I are going for the safe 2.5% model with a starting withdrawal rate of around $30,000 a year, except that we’ll adjust our withdrawal each year for inflation and then we’ll subtract out our Social Security benefits when they start rolling in. So, our target number is around $1.2 million ($30,000 divided by 2.5%).

So, let’s use that as our target number. To be able to retire with a “lean” lifestyle, you’ll need something around $1.2 million in the bank. Different factors can change that number – are you going to work a part time job? If so, the number is higher. Do you need a little more than $30,000 a year? If so, the number is lower.

So, How Does One Get There?

Let’s say that a person is fresh out of college at age 22 and is making that national average, $61,372 a year. They want to get to $1.2 million in savings as fast as possible, remembering, of course, that their target number is going to grow at 2% per year, but so will their salary. We’ll use those as constants.

Let’s say this person chooses to live a lifestyle at 125% of the federal poverty guideline – $31,375 a year. This gives them almost exactly $30,000 a year to invest for retirement, an amount that will also grow at 2% per year. Let’s say that person puts it in the Vanguard 500 for the long term – as mentioned at the start, that has an average annual return of very close to 10% over the long term.

The person that follows this exact recipe would hit their early retirement target at age 40 and walk out the door on their 41st birthday or thereabouts. They would have $1.835 million in the bank and would need to be withdrawing about $43,000 a year thereafter, inching up 2% a year for inflation. In their 60s, they’d start earning Social Security benefits.

In other words, a person fresh out of college earning the median annual salary for an American who chooses to live at 125% of the federal poverty guideline and then puts every extra dime of their income away for retirement can retire early at age 41 and likely never have to work again.

This doesn’t include a lot of factors, of course. It doesn’t consider student loans as it assumes they’re paid back out of the $31,000 a year the person is living off of; if that doesn’t work out, it slows down the plan. It doesn’t consider raises, either, which might be used to accelerate this whole plan. It also assumes lifelong contentment on a low income, something we’ll touch on again in a minute.

The point is this: the median American, with suitable motivation, can most definitely retire early, even very early.

The Real Challenge: Living with a Low Income

The challenging part of all of this, and the reason many people argue that it can “never” work, is that it requires people to live on a lower salary than most Americans are comfortable living on.

Making ends meet on an annual gross income of around $30,000 a year means a monthly take-home of about $2,000 or a bit more. Out of that comes the rent, the food, and all of the other expenses a family might incur.

That’s not to say it can’t be done, just that it requires a lot of sacrifice that most people aren’t willing to make. Imagine, for example, choosing to have no cable at home and only having an over-the-air antenna. You choose to have no internet at home. You choose to have no cell phone plan and instead use a cheap pay-as-you-go phone for $20 or $30 a month. You live in a small apartment. You eat out only rarely and make almost all of your food at home using staple foods and store brand items. Your entertainment largely consists of free community activities, checking out books and DVDs from the library, and getting exercise at the park. Maybe you work a part time job to accelerate your savings.

That’s the real picture of someone on a median income wanting to work toward retiring early. It’s not a life that most Americans would choose at that income level. They’d view living in a high cost of living area and/or home internet and/or a cable plan and/or a cell phone plan and/or regular meals at restaurants and/or regular entertainment expenses as a baseline for living a modern life, and if that’s your baseline, it is pretty close to impossible to follow this plan.

An additional problem is that half of all Americans have a lower household income than this. The lower your income is, the further out your retirement age goes. (Of course, in this scenario, transitioning to living on a tighter income to make this work is easier, as you’re already accustomed to frugal living.)

The Fallback

The final thing to remember in all of this is that the fallback is simply going back to work somewhere. It’s not apocalyptic if something doesn’t quite click. If it doesn’t look like things are going to work out, just go back to work for a few years and you’ll almost definitely fix the problem just by living off of your own earnings for a few years and letting your investments rest and build, and maybe contributing a little to them. After that, you can probably hop right back on the early retirement train.

If Sarah and I both retire at, say, 50, and then we realize around age 60 that it isn’t going to work forever, well, we’ll both go back to working for a while. We’ll live off of whatever we make for a few years, let our savings build up without interference, and then “retire” again at 63 or 64, when Social Security is just about to come online for us, and then from there on out, we’re good.

That’s the downside of this plan – you just have to work again for a few years. It’s not a disaster by any definition of the word.

Final Thoughts

Here’s the truth: the median American can absolutely retire early, even in their forties, but it requires diligently sticking to a low-income lifestyle for life. That type of commitment isn’t something that most people are willing to commit to, especially when their income opens the possibility to a lot of lifestyle perks.

When you start adding in things like home internet service or a cell phone plan and a decent phone and a cable service and Netflix and eating out with any regularity and nice clothes and a decent car and occasional entertainment and a trip once in a while with your significant other, you’re living a lifestyle above what it would take to retire in your forties because there isn’t enough money left over after all of that to save enough to make retirement in your forties happen. You can perhaps aim for your late fifties.

It gets even more challenging if you’re not starting right out of college or very soon thereafter. If you’re just starting to figure this out in your late thirties, you’re aiming for a normal retirement; your retirement savings are simply going to nicely supplement Social Security when you walk out the door in your sixties.

All of these factors together make it pretty hard for the “median American” to pull it off. They have to start really young. They have to be willing to live a pretty low income lifestyle. They have to not have any exceptional negative financial factors in their life, like huge student loans or a lot of dependents or anything like that.

However, if you get past all of those things, the “median American” can most definitely retire early. It’s just not a path that many will choose to walk and, for some Americans, extenuating life circumstances make that path nearly impossible.

Of course, earning a higher income makes all of this easier, from beginning to end, but this plan is not out of reach of the median American. It just requires a lot of hard work and a little bit of luck.

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When and How to Stop Paying Your Kids’ Bills

We all want to help our children succeed in life, and for many parents, that includes paying some, or all, of their child’s bills well into adulthood.

Supporting your children financially for too long, however, can be a bad idea for everyone involved.

Not only does it drain you of resources, often near or during retirement, it also prevents children from learning how to master their own finances.

“Paying bills for dependents who should be able to handle their own finances is financial enabling and it causes financial dependency in your children,” said Derek Hagen, founder of Hagen Finance, a financial coaching firm. “It’s difficult to say ‘no’ to your children, but it is what’s best for them in the long run.”

It’s a lesson many parents have yet to learn. A recent study from Instamotor revealed that despite leaving home and starting careers, many millennials still rely on their parents to cover at least some of their expenses. About one quarter of millennials who work full-time say their parents pay at least one of their bills. What’s more, nearly four in five millennials whose parents are footing their bills no longer even live at home.

So, what are the most common bills paid by parents? Cell phone bills take the lead by far at 53 percent, followed by car insurance at 30.7 percent, and car payments and utilities at 29.7 percent.

For those who are ready to cut the cord and usher their children into financial independence, here are six tips, tactics, and insights from financial professionals on how to do so.

Identify a transition period or specific date.

Some experts suggest a cold turkey approach – to stop paying for a child’s bills once they graduate from college and land their first job, for example. Others recommend a more gradual transition, phasing out one bill at a time. Whichever path you choose, it’s important to begin with clear communication.

“First, parents must have a conversation with their kids to tell them there will be changes and help them prepare for these changes by taking a hard look at their finances,” says Chelsea Hudson, personal finance expert for TopCashBack. “To not overwhelm their kids, they should start by giving them small financial responsibilities like taking them off the family phone plan and insurance.”

This approach allows kids to become accustomed to paying their own bills without overwhelming them completely while adjusting to “adulting,” said Hudson, who also advocates setting a plan on a calendar that outlines when the adult child will take on each financial responsibility in full.

How you treat children during this transition period is also key.

“Parents should stay supportive and help them with any financial questions without getting involved or saving the day when their kids go over their limit or miss a payment,” Hudson explained. “Adult children must learn from their mistakes and take responsibility slowly while gaining new financial freedom.”

Teach children to budget.

Knowing how to create and maintain a budget is key to long-term financial success. But it’s a learned skill, not something that necessarily comes naturally.

One practical way for parents to help their children is by sitting down with them to create their first few budgets together, says Hudson. Teach them the importance of planning for each of their monthly expenses to help guide them down the path to financial responsibility.

Debt resolution attorney Leslie Tayne also recommends educating your children about shopping wisely as part of the budgeting discussion.

“Teach your children about smart shopping so they maximize the value of their dollar and are able to live within a budget that responsibly supports their everyday ‘must-have’ household expenses,” said Tayne. “Help them identify their needs versus their wants so they can map out a budget that allows them to concentrate on tending to necessary household expenses before indulging on any luxury type desires.”

Consider engaging a financial professional in the discussion.

For parents who may not be comfortable leading these types of financial discussions, yet another option is bringing your child to a financial professional.

“We have clients who bring their children in and we have a joint conversation with them,” explained Mike Windle, retirement planning specialist at C. Curtis Financial.

The discussions can cover not only how to budget, but also the importance of saving, creating an emergency fund and more.

Are there any bills that make sense to pay jointly?

There are some instances when it can make sense to maintain a shared bill with a child or allow a child to remain on your accounts, but they are rare. The primary example is a cell phone bill, says Windle.

“The only bills that make sense are the ones where everybody’s getting a discount by grouping the bill together, such as cell phones,” explained Windle. “I don’t see anything wrong with a child staying on a parent’s plan, if they can get a phone line for $20 a month that way, versus $80 on their own.”

Affluent parents are not excluded.

There are certainly plenty of families who have ample resources, for whom paying an adult child’s bills hardly poses a challenge. However, even if money is no object, it is still a good idea to help a child learn to handle their own finances.

“You’re not always going to be around, so you still want to prepare your child right now,” said Windle. “Even if you have the money to pay their bills and you don’t notice the $600 or $1,000 a month you spend paying their bills, you still need to teach your child financial responsibility.”

Lead by example.

While many parents may have kept family finances private from their kids in the past, it’s important to be transparent with your adult children about any financial struggles you’ve had and how you dealt with them.

“During this period of detachment, adult children will be observing your spending and financial habits,” said Hudson.

“Teach by example and pay all bills on time, save as much money as possible, and set reminders on a calendar so they visually see you keeping track of your bills.”

Mia Taylor is an award-winning journalist with more than two decades of experience. She has worked for some of the nation’s best-known news organizations, including the Atlanta Journal-Constitution and the San Diego Union-Tribune. 

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