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الخميس، 7 أبريل 2016

These Public Schools Found a Weird Way to Fund Personal Finance Classes

personal finance education

Boston Public Schools will provide financial education to 6,000 high school students, thanks to a grant from… a credit card company?

Discover Financial Services’ Pathway to Financial Success Program awarded the district $180,000 to implement the program in 30 public high schools. It’s part of $10 million Discover committed to awarding when it launched the program in 2012, and the program has since reached schools in Detroit, Chicago, Miami and even smaller districts in places like Iowa.

“By accepting the grant from Discover, Boston Public Schools has agreed to have students take a financial literacy test before and after they’ve gone through the new curriculum,” Olivia Vanni of BostInno explained. It’s not clear when BPS will start offering the courses.

Schools that have run its program have seen financial literacy scores increase as much as 24%, says Discover.

Discover works with the Council for Economic Education (CEE) and WeAreTeachers (an online hub for classroom teachers) to develop lessons for the program.

Wait, Doesn’t Discover Offer Credit Cards?

You might think personal finance education from a credit card issuer is a scam, or at least feels a bit sleazy.

We were skeptical, too.

But we took a closer look at the lesson plans provided by Discover, CEE and WeAreTeachers. Turns out the Pathways program is pretty comprehensive.

The program — available at elementary, middle and high school levels — keeps it pretty basic for the younger students.

“Do I want it or do I need it?” the first elementary-level lesson asks students to consider. It’s a way to boost math skills, while also getting students to think about money beyond something that might come from mom or dad’s pockets seemingly on demand.

By the time they get to high school, Discover’s students tackle budgeting, paystubs, smart credit consumption and paying for college. They also complete exercises about personal loans, the stock market and investing to build wealth.

CEE’s investing and financial future exercises are a little more textbook.

In one lesson, students are asked to develop an investment plan for an example client, based on the level of risk the client is comfortable with.

The WeAreTeachers/Pathway lessons are a bit more touchy-feely. In one, students are encouraged to ask their parents how old they think someone should be when they get their first credit card, before learning what it means to be creditworthy.

Why Would Financial Institutions Invest in Education?

With extensive financial education being left out of curricula in, let’s face it, most schools, Discover is stepping up to the plate.

It’s not the only bank to do it, either.

Junior Achievement, which has been providing personal finance education in schools since this writer was a wee one, often teams up with local bankers to teach classes; banks like Capital One frequently sponsor such programs.

Offering personal finance education is a huge sign of goodwill.

Granted, a bank won’t make millions off the credit card holders of tomorrow (we hope). But a student who completes Discover’s program might be more likely to turn to Discover for their first credit card.

It’s the classic marketing technique of providing value first to attract potential customers. These customers just aren’t old enough to get a personal loan — yet.

Teachers, Want These Lesson Plans?

The coolest thing about Discover’s program is that, while Boston schools received funding to run the program, the lesson plans are available completely free online.

Teachers who feel desperate to educate their students — even when budgets are tight — can slip these lessons right into their math classes, or maybe even into what remains of the country’s home-economics programs.

And any school can apply for the grant money the Boston schools received, as long as it pledges to measure results of the program and share those results with Discover so the company can measure the program’s effectiveness.

Your Turn: Did you learn about personal finance in school?

Lisa Rowan is a writer, editor and podcaster living in Washington, D.C. She learned how to use a checkbook in seventh-grade Junior Achievement class.

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Shop at Whole Foods? Use This Coupon to Save $5 on Fruits and Veggies

We all know coupons can save you a ton of money, but so many of them are only for less-than-healthy prepackaged foods.

So we were thrilled to find out about an awesome deal at Whole Foods this week: Buy $20 worth of fresh fruits and vegetables, and get $5 off.

If you play your cards right, that much produce could take your family through a whole week’s worth of “Eat your greens, Junior.”

How to Take Advantage of This Whole Foods Coupon

Sound like a delicious deal?

Here’s how to get take advantage of it — and even save a little bit more.

First, you’ll need to download the Whole Foods app and set up a free account. The coupon should populate automatically, and it’s valid through April 12.

Then, head to Whole Foods to purchase $20 worth of nutritious produce. Not sure what to buy? Check out this free cookbook, full of cheap meals featuring tons of fresh fruits and veggies!

To maximize your savings, make sure you’re using a cash-back or other rewards credit card for your purchase. You’ll earn a percentage back of every dollar you spend.

Then, open up your Ibotta app, and look for rebates on the fresh produce you just bought.

We’ve recently seen 25-cent rebates for onions, red bell peppers, bananas and tomatoes — as well as larger rebates on other fresh, healthy goods you might pick up while you’re in the store, like milk and eggs.

Verify your purchases with Ibotta by snapping a picture of your receipt. You’ve just earned an even steeper discount on the healthy food your family needs!

Your Turn: Will you take advantage of this awesome deal at Whole Foods?

Disclosure: You wouldn’t believe how much coffee The Penny Hoarder team goes through. This post contains affiliate links so we can keep the grinds stocked!

Jamie Cattanach is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. She also writes creative nonfiction and poetry, some of which has been featured in DMQ Review, Sweet: A Literary Confection and elsewhere. You can follow along at http://ift.tt/1RiB7sH.

The post Shop at Whole Foods? Use This Coupon to Save $5 on Fruits and Veggies appeared first on The Penny Hoarder.



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How to Raise Your Credit Score 100 Points or More in Less Than 5 Months

Raising your credit score 100 points is easier than many people might think, especially if you currently have bad credit.

Step 1 – Know Where You Are

raise credit score 100 points using credit karmaPull your credit score to determine where you are and how much damage control you need to do. There are dozens websites that will let you get your credit score in no time at all, but Credit Karma is one of my personal favorites. Credit Karma is secure, easy-to-use, and the best part is, it’s free! Credit Karma not only shows you your credit score, but it also explains why you credit score is that number. The site will show you factors like credit inquiries, credit card usage, age of credit history, payment history, and other aspects that impact your credit card score.

Credit Karma will show you your credit score based on their own scale. Their number is going to be very close, but it’s not your EXACT credit score. The only way to get that is to go through MyFICO. This will give you your FICO score, which is the best representation of your credit score, but it isn’t free. The website has a monthly fee of $29,95, that will give you a FICO score, which includes the three credit reporting agencies, and the fee also includes credit tracking. If you are good with only one of the three then it will cost $19.95.

increase your credit score by 100 points with myfico
Step 2 – Fixing Credit Problems

Now that you know your credit score, we can start working to make it better. One of the best ways to have a great credit score is to always way you bills on time. Missing one bill can lower your credit score by as much as 100 points. To begin your credit card recovery journey, make sure you pay all of your late payments and don’t miss another bill payment. While paying those outstanding debts isn’t going to raise your credit score, it will keep it from getting any worse.

Step 3 – Run up the Score

Now that you’re paid up on all your bills, it’s time to give your credit card score a serious boost. One of the best ways to improve your credit score 100 points is to have a credit card, but not use it. Sounds crazy right? One of the biggest factors that impacts your credit score is your credit utilization, which basically means how much of your credit card limit you use. So, if you have a $10,000 credit card limit, don’t get anywhere near it. In fact, we would suggest only using around 20%-30% of your total credit card limit. If you have any maxed out credit cards, even if you’re paying the bills on time, work to get your credit card utilization down. Way, way, way down.

If you only have a little available credit this may be difficult.  If your score is not too bad you may be able to take out an additional credit card.  If your credit is hurting then you may need to look at a secured credit card to get your utilization down.  This next section is how one of my interns did just that and made a HUGE impact on his credit.

IMG - How to raise your credit score

previous intern of mine, Kevin, was oblivious to what his credit score was. His parents had always told him to not open a credit card in fear that he would get in massive credit card debt and ruin his future.

Unfortunately, his parents were wrong.

To help Kevin out, I asked him to find out what his credit score was through MyFico.com. Sadly, he was unpleasantly surprised. The story that follows is about how Kevin improved his credit score 100 points with a surprising tool – a secured credit card. Please welcome Kevin….

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As a Junior and Senior in college, I was always told that applying for a credit card could be my first step in the wrong direction.

With a credit card in hand, my parents worried I would spend money I couldn’t pay off and build a lifestyle I couldn’t really afford. They also worried I would lose track of the concept of having to work for items that I was receiving, as well as the curse of living above my means which many Americans fall victim to on a daily basis.

While these are legitimate concerns, I had to let them know I felt as if I had some control over my spending.

My response was always the same,

“How would I know until I was able to try for myself?”

My First Humbling Credit Experience

When I was finally prepared to get a credit card on my own, none of the banks I applied with would give me a chance. I had to walk into the banks and tell them what is probably the typical story for anyone who is in their final years of college, or have just graduated very recently from college. It went like this,

“I am unemployed, have no credit history, and have a couple thousand dollars in college debts that I will have to start paying on in the next year or two.”

Lets face it; this is not exactly the most appealing story when you are trying to convince someone to give you a line of credit!

Two banks denied me, but one of the bankers let me in on some info which has helped me raise my credit score over 100 points in the past five months. I think everyone should be aware of this information, which is why I’m sharing it today. The gist of his story was that I should stop trying to apply for credit cards and getting denied. His reasoning was that, when you apply, they do a hard credit check which, in turn, can lower your credit score even more.

Get A Secured Credit Card

He also told me that no major bank was going to accept my credit application anyway, but that there was actually a different, better option to consider. This other option was to sign up for what is called a “secured” credit card. The terms on these cards offer are horribly one-sided in favor of the lender, but can I assure you it is a small price to pay for the result you receive after only a few months.

Secured credit cards are like traditional credit cards except for the fact you have to give them a cash deposit up front, and that cash deposit is typically equal to your credit limit. This process truly confused me at first since I thought that the deposit was money I could actually spend. What I learned, however, is that the deposit is there in case I default. I couldn’t spend the deposit itself, but I would get it back if I kept my account in good standing until I closed it. This wasn’t an ideal situation, but I knew it could help me build my credit score – and that was my real goal anyway.

There is also an annual fee to have most secured credit cards, but I felt it was a small price to pay for the opportunity to build a credit history. After you make your deposit, secured cards are also treated just like traditional credit cards. Your secured card will typically look and act just like a regular credit card, meaning that no one will know it is secured.

This is the route I had to take, and I suspect there are many people out there who are also in a similar situation to what I was in. Even though you have to put all the money up front, as well as pay an annual fee, it is still very much worth it when you consider the long-term benefits.

Top Secured Credit Card Offer for 2016:

Discover it® Secured Credit Card – No Annual Fee*

improve credit score 100 points with discover it for students smallIf you’re looking for a secured credit card to build your credit, look no further than the Discover it® Secured Credit Card. This card comes with NO ANNUAL FEE, which is almost unheard of in this industry, plus you will earn 2x points on dining and gas on your first $1,000 spent each quarter, and 1x points on all other purchases. Read here to learn more about the Discover it® Secured Credit Card.

First Credit Score Check: Ouch!

When I first checked my credit score with MyFico in March of 2011, it was sitting at 621. I set up my new secured credit card with a credit limit of $1,100. This credit limit should be a function of what you have, and also what you plan on using the credit card for. According to many bankers and friends I talked to, you should try to run a 75% utilization rate on your credit card to maximize your potential to raise your credit score.

So if you only spend around $300 a month, you should only give your secured credit card a $500 dollar down payment so that you are utilizing your credit rather than having a $1,000 dollar limit and only spending $300. My expenditures were approximately $700 dollars a month so the $1,000 dollar limit fit my needs.

Smart Spending

After I received my secured card and started spending, I would make sure that I would only spend money I already had, or would receive before the next pay period. I ended up paying off my credit card roughly four times a month to ensure I never carried a balance from one month to the next. I would never let my credit limit exceed $800, and I would never pay it off if the card balance were under $300 unless the pay period was coming to an end.

I would spend every penny on my credit card from the smallest expenses such as a drink from the gas station, to major purchases such as airline tickets or hotel rooms. I repeated this process for five months to establish a credit history always paying on time, and always making purchases on my credit card.

Second Credit Score Check: Yes!

In August of 2011, I had to purchase a car so that I could switch jobs. When I filled out the credit application to see if I qualified for the lower financing rates, my credit score came back as a 731.

In other words, I raised my credit score from 621 to 731 in just five months!

This is a very big deal because, at 621, I would have been denied a loan for the car, or would have had an interest rate that exceeded 9% on the auto loan. Since I chose to get a secured credit card, I was able to take the car loan on my own, and qualify for the low rate of 3.99% financing for the car.

The difference in the loan between the two different interest rates would be $750 over the life of the loan, far surpassing the card’s annual fee, and the opportunity cost of my secured credit card holding my $1,100 for five months.

A Message to Parents

To all of the parents out there who may be on the fence about letting their college kid apply for a credit card, I can tell you it worked for me in five months and will change my financial future for many years to come.

Secured credit cards offer a foolproof way to raise your credit score when it is not possible through a regular bank credit card, and is a safe way to earn credit if you do not trust your kid or self with a credit card that isn’t secured with your own funds. The worst that can happen with your secured card is that you cannot pay your bill; your company closes out the account, and they pay off your credit with the money you already have on deposit.

My secured card worked perfectly for me and I have now been accepted for a credit card with a major bank. I closed my secured card because of the annual fee associated with it, but I would recommend it to anyone who would like to raise his or her credit score.

How to Make a Secured Credit Card Work for You

Now that you’ve heard Kevin’s story, you’re probably wondering if a secured credit card might also work in your situation.

Here’s the truth: If you have a low credit score and cannot qualify for traditional credit that could help you build credit over time, a secured credit card is the best way to build a credit profile that will last.

Here are some steps you can take to get your credit moving in the right direction with a secured credit card.

Step #1: Learn your current credit score.

If you’re worried about your credit, the best thing you can do is figure out where you’re at. By signing up for a free credit score with Credit Karma, you can get an estimate of your FICO score from two of the three credit reporting agencies. Although you’ll only receive an approximate score, it will be close enough to give you an idea of your current standing. Best of all, signing up for Credit Karma is free so you have nothing to lose.

Step #2: Research secured credit cards.

The next step you’ll want to take is to research the top secured credit cards available. If you want to build your credit the right way, either of these two cards can help get you going in the right direction:

discover it for students smallDiscover it® Secured Credit Card – The Discover it® Secured Credit Card is the only secured credit card on the market that doesn’t charge an annual fee. Better yet, you can earn rewards! With this card, you’ll earn 2x points on your first $1,000 in dining and gas purchases every quarter, plus 1x points on all other purchases. Read here to learn more about the Discover it® Secured Credit Card.

citi secured smallCiti® Secured MasterCard® – Another great secured card is the Citi® Secured MasterCard®. This card comes with an annual fee of just $25, yet it can steadily help you build your credit up over time. The important thing is, it reports to all three credit reporting agencies. This is what you need to happen if you hope to built credit through responsible use of your new secured credit card. If you want to learn more, read here to explore all of the benefits of the Citi® Secured MasterCard®

Step #3: Read the terms and conditions, then sign up for the card that suits your needs best.

Once you find a card that meets your needs, you need to read through all the fine print to make sure you understand all fees involved with your new secured card. Once you feel comfortable with the details, simply click on the “apply now” sign and fill out all of the required information.

Step #4: Put down a cash deposit you can afford.

Most secured credit cards will ask you to put down a deposit that is equal to your new credit limit. If you want a $500 credit limit, for example, you’ll need to put $500 in cash down as a deposit. You might need to save a few weeks or months to build this up, but the wait will be worth it.

Step #5: Use your secured credit card sparingly at first.

As you get used to using credit, you’ll want to use your card sparingly at first. Don’t rush in and begin charging items until you get a grasp on what you can truly pay back. You don’t want to end up with a revolving balance you can’t afford to pay off every month, and you definitely don’t want to pay interest on your purchases!

Step #6: Monitor your bill closely, and pay your secured card off frequently.

To make sure you’re utilizing your new secured credit card, you’ll want to keep close tabs on your growing bill. If your card offers online account management, this task should be fairly easy. If it doesn’t, you may need to keep track of your purchases and charges manually. Either way, this step is crucial since staying debt-free is the best way to keep your credit in tip top shape.

The Bottom Line

While Kevin’s story is absolutely amazing, it isn’t all that unique. The truth is, this is exactly what secured credit cards are supposed to do. They do receive a bad rap because of the initial deposit and the fact that some charge annual fees, but that’s not really fair. In the real world, secured credit cards are a valuable tool that can be used to build your credit when you can’t qualify for a line of credit otherwise.

Whether you like it or not, your credit score is important. If you ever hope to take out a mortgage, borrow money for a car like Kevin did, or borrow funds to start a new business, you’ll need a good or decent credit score to qualify for the best rates.

While imperfect, secured credit cards offer the opportunity to improve your credit and your life. If you are ready to improve your credit and think a secured card could help, don’t delay. Research secured card options and sign up today.

Have you ever used a secured credit card? What is holding you back?



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The Challenge of Moving to a Smaller Home

The house I grew up in had a pretty limited square footage, something I notice every time I visit my parents. It’s essentially a two bedroom house with what amounts to a storage closet converted into a third bedroom when absolutely needed. The living room is very small and the kitchen is pretty tiny as well.

I grew up there with my parents and two older brothers. There were also periods where my mother’s younger brothers lived with us, too. It was cozy at times, to say the least.

Yet, when I look back on it, I don’t have any bad memories of living there. I don’t recall any situation where things were made uncomfortable due to the smallness of the house. There was always somewhere I could go for privacy. There was always enough room to do things together as a family and to get involved in any projects that I was interested in.

The house I live in today is much larger, but the story is much the same. I live here with my wife and we have three children. I don’t have any bad memories of living here, nor is there any situation where things are really uncomfortable. There is always room for privacy and there is always room for projects.

So, why the bigger house? What does this bigger house provide me that the smaller house that I grew up in doesn’t provide for me?

Honestly, the biggest benefit of a larger house is that it provides a lot of room for more stuff. This house offers storage galore – almost a dozen closets, a garage with a huge amount of loft storage, and big rooms with plenty of room for storage-oriented furniture (like bookshelves).

Naturally, when you have storage space, you tend to fill it. We’ve lived in this house since 2007 and, in drips and drabs, we’ve slowly filled up that storage space. We have boxes of old children’s clothes and toys. Many of our personal collections have grown, such as our board game collection. Our children have accumulated a number of possessions themselves, since when we moved in we had only one child who was a toddler and he’s now approaching his teen years.

Recently, however, I’ve been thinking more and more about the house I grew up in. In some ways, it’s actually not all that different than the house I’d like to retire in, except with perhaps one more nice room to entertain guests in and a slightly larger kitchen. I would even consider moving into the perfect smaller house right now, even with growing children, if I found the right one.

Why Live in a Smaller House?

So, why would I even consider downsizing? For me, it really comes back to three key things.

First of all, we really don’t need this much space. I could easily remove 30% of the square footage of this house and still be perfectly happy. With the right layout, I’d eliminate 50% of the square footage of this house without skipping a beat.

That connects to the second reason, which is that maintaining a larger house takes more time. It takes more time to clean. There are more things that can break and need to be fixed. There are more things that simply need attention.

Another reason: a big house is simply more expensive than a small one, even when it’s paid off. The property taxes are higher. The insurance is higher. The maintenance costs are higher. Sure, it’s theoretically growing equity at a faster rate, but that doesn’t help with out of pocket costs, and I’m not convinced at all that the growth in the value of the house makes up for the much higher insurance costs and maintenance costs and property taxes.

In other words, living in a smaller home means lower housing bills and more free time, both of which sound appealing to me.

Smaller Houses and Social Status

Some people view their homes as a status symbol. To them, it’s an indication of the success they’ve found in life, one that they can proudly display not only to all of their friends and family, but to the people who walk and drive by their house.

Often, part of that sense of status comes from the size of the house. The bigger it is, the more expensive it must be, and thus the greater the personal success of the people who life there, or so goes the logic.

That was a logic that used to make a great deal of sense to me, but the more I look at my life and really consider what I value and care about, the less sense that it makes.

First of all, I don’t really care about impressing the people passing by. Those people are not a part of my life. I really don’t care what they think of me. It just doesn’t have an impact in any real way.

Second, my friends are my friends, not my house’s friends. My friends don’t come to visit because of the size of my home or the “quality” of my furnishings. They come to visit because they like my company. Many of the same friends and family who visit us now were the same people who came to visit us back in the day.

Third, having a big house is not the sign I look for to indicate to myself that I’m successful. I look at other things. Am I engaged in work that I enjoy? Do I have time for leisure and relaxation? Do I have a good relationship with the people closest to me? That, to me, is success.

Because of that, I don’t feel an external need to own a large house. Several years ago, I did, hence the purchase of our current relatively large house. That sense of a house providing an internal or external sense of status has faded greatly in my mind and, with it, the driving desire to own a large home has faded as well.

Finding the Right Balance

So let’s say I was actually in the market to buy a smaller house. My intent would be to buy this new house, sell our current house, and pocket the difference in value, then enjoy the lower bills and lower time investment. Makes sense, right?

The first problem that pops up is finding the right size. I’m obviously open to a smaller house, but how small?

Let’s get the “small house” thing out of the way right now. I’m fully aware of the “small house movement,” but I find that many of the “small houses” that I see take it to extremes.

Many tiny houses that I see do not have enough room for basic things like clothes laundering, dishwashing, or other things that a person might do at home, which leads me to conclude that they must do many of those things outside of the home where it is inherently more expensive, which kind of defeats the purpose for me. I want to be able to do those kinds of basic life tasks efficiently at home with minimal time and cost. They’re also rarely equipped with a basement or a proper foundation, which is an important thing to have when you live anywhere where severe storms occur regularly.

I want something a little larger than a “small house,” then. I want one with a functional basement on a proper foundation with tiling. I also want enough room for me to take care of basic life management functions at home – doing dishes, preparing meals, washing clothes, storing a small number of things, entertaining the occasional handful of guests without ridiculously cramped conditions, and so on.

Yet, on the other hand, our current home is honestly a bit too big. There’s a lot of unused space, space that’s basically only utilized for storage of stuff that we don’t use and rarely look at. I have a ton of boxes out in the garage that are essentially marked for a yard sale… but that box pile has done nothing but grow over the past few years. And that’s just scratching the surface of what should really be purged from our storage space.

In other words, I want to retain the space that we actually use in our home along with a small fraction of the storage space and essentially purge the rest.

So, what do we actually use? We use three bedrooms out of the four in our home, though we may end up using the fourth for a while when our kids get older. It’s not necessary, though, as I shared a bedroom with my brothers for many, many years growing up. We really only use one of our two family rooms and only two of our four bathrooms. We have a lot of closet space, but we really need perhaps 30% to 40% of it if we were wise about purging our unused stuff.

That leaves us with a three bedroom house with two bathrooms, only one family room, and a lot less closet space, which adds up to a reduction of about 40% of our square footage.

The key here is to think about the space you’ll actually use instead of the space that you might use every once in a while. The trick is learning how to separate space that you’ll use quite often from space that you’ll rarely use, even when you might envision occasional uses for that space.

For example, I can envision having a room devoted to tabletop gaming, with a table perfectly constructed for such games. While I would probably spend some time in there, the honest truth is that it doesn’t really do anything that our dining room table doesn’t already do aside from rare situations where I can leave a very, very long game set up over the course of a full day or multiple days.

When I’m honest with myself like that, the idea of paying the costs of having an entire extra room for this, even if it seems like a cool use for me, is rather silly. It’s a rare use, even for me, so it’s silly to pay the cost of building/owning that room, the additional insurance, the additional property taxes, and so on just to maintain that space.

Focus on the space you actually need for the things you actually do every day – eat, prepare food, relax, sleep, maintain yourself, maintain your key possessions, and so on. Don’t worry about space necessary for the rarer things. If you find you need those spaces, you can usually find ways to essentially borrow them for free outside of your home.

Downsizing Your Stuff

The challenge that’s left, then, is to deal with the stuff we’ve accumulated over the years in our current home. The boxes in our closets. The furniture in rarely-used rooms. The loft and the shelves in the garage full of all kinds of items.

What do we do with all of that stuff?

Some of it is obvious fodder for yard sales and Craigslist. It’s pretty clear that there are many items that we bought for our children when they were babies or toddlers that can be moved to new families pretty easy, and there are some scarcely used gifts just sitting on shelves in the garage or in the back of the pantry that can be sold to clear out space.

Closets need to be emptied out and organized. This actually includes a lot of different categories of things, so let’s look at each of those categories.

We need to shred old papers. We have several boxes of old papers that simply need to be shredded. At this point, electric bills from 2009 serve no real purpose, especially since we have digital copies of those things. They simply need to be shredded and properly disposed of, which is itself a sizable task.

We need to honestly evaluate our lesser-used items. Almost every closet in our home is full of items that we rarely use. This is a tricky problem because it’s so easy to envision uses for those items, but the honest reality is that we rarely – if ever – use those things.

The challenge, then, is to break through the visions of using the items to the reality that we don’t actually use those items, and that can be trickier than it sounds.

My solution for this problem is to use a simple evaluation system for everything in the closets. Just go through each item and ask yourself a simple question: has this item been used in the last year? If the answer is yes, then keep it. If the answer is no, then get rid of it. If the answer is… not sure, then take a piece of masking tape and write today’s date on it and then keep the item for now. Then, if you use an item with masking tape on it, remove the tape. Then, revisit the closet in a year and remove all items with tape still on them.

We need to smartly organize the stuff we’re keeping. An unorganized space means that stuff takes up more space than it otherwise would and/or some things are not easily accessible. A well-organized space means everything takes up minimal space while still being easily accessible. Our closets and other storage spaces tend toward the former, unfortunately.

Once we figure out what items we’re actually holding onto, some serious reorganization of our closets and storage spaces need to occur. Things like temporary shelves, wire racks, clearly-labeled boxes, and so on are definitely in order.

Why do all of this? The goal is to reduce the amount of space we’re using in our current home so that it becomes easy to transplant to a smaller home. Think of it as a proving ground of sorts for the concept of having a smaller home.

Pulling the Trigger

With such a clear game plan, why aren’t we downsizing, then? Personally, I’d be happy to downsize at this point, but there are a few factors that are providing pushback against doing so.

First and foremost, the rest of my family really likes our current home. The biggest reason for that, I think, is location.

My children have several close friends within walking distance of our house – in fact, of the three children my daughter identifies as her closest friends, two of them live literally within a stone’s throw of our home. There’s a park directly across the street with a playground and a giant open field and a perfect quarter-mile running loop, meaning that there’s something there for each of them to enjoy. On top of that, one of my wife’s closest friends is also within a stone’s throw of our home, and she has other close friends within a mile or so.

The idea of moving – and losing such close access to those things – is something that none of them enjoy. I personally don’t have anything that ties me to this location nearly as much, but my family’s needs are pretty important to me.

Second, there is no additional reason to move beyond the time and money savings from a reduced house footprint. We have no reason to move for work. We have no reason to move for school. We have no reason to move for social reason. We have no real reason to move for improved access to cultural things. Our current location is pretty good in all of those regards.

Third, our current home is actually a pretty good “bang for the buck” for the area. While I think a smaller home would definitely hit a somewhat sweeter spot, when I compare our home to some of the much larger ones that are in some of the newer housing developments nearby, our home seems pretty modest by comparison. Our energy bills are what I would consider quite reasonable (especially compared to what we paid when we first moved in) and our property taxes and insurance rates aren’t going to improve drastically unless we move much further away from nearby cities.

Finally, it’s honestly going to be a lot of work and we’re already pretty time-strapped. This is more of a “resistance” thing than a real reason for not moving, but without a compelling reason to move forward on it, this kind of “resistance” is powerful at holding a person back from making a move.

So Why Consider It?

So, if the decision is essentially made for us not to downsize, what’s the benefit of even thinking about it like this?

Well, first of all, no one’s life is guaranteed to ever be the same forever. Over time, many of those factors that work against moving into a smaller home are going to shift and move us toward a smaller home. When our children grow older and leave the nest, many of the factors that encourage us to stay in this house are going to shift and encourage us to downsize. It’s also good to have a smart plan in place if we ever need to downsize for financial reasons or for other personal reasons.

For another, the outcomes of preparing for downsizing are beneficial even if we never move. Having a yard sale/Craigslist sale of our unused stuff cleans out our storage spaces and earns us some extra money. Reorganizing our storage spaces makes our stuff that we choose to keep more accessible, too.

For yet another, thinking about what would make for a “better” house lets me see ways to make our current home “better.” Thinking about a smaller house encourages me to find ways to incorporate “smaller house” traits into our current house.

Final Thoughts

If I were to go back to my younger self, prior to buying a house, I’d sit down and encourage that younger self to buy something just a bit smaller with a different layout.

That house would cost less. It would have lower property taxes and lower insurance. It would also require less time and effort for maintenance. And I wouldn’t actually lose any genuinely useful living space.

Would I listen? Probably not. What I would hope for instead is that I would give more careful thought about my home purchase and what we really needed, which in the end is the purpose of this post.

If you’re considering a home purchase, give some thought to a home on the smaller end of the spectrum. A smaller home will save you money and save you time and it’ll likely not reduce the living space you use every day.

Good luck.

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10 Ways to Get Clothes for Your Kids Without Spending a Cent

free clothes

As the mom of two young daughters — Penny, 3, and Georgia, 1 — I understand why the average American family spends roughly 3.8% of their annual household income on clothes. Children are constantly growing, and their clothing needs change nearly every season.

Since we’re a lower income family, my husband and I decided early in our parenting journey to spend as little as possible on our kids’ clothes. My children are both well-dressed, typically wearing the latest fashions and the best designer brands.

Yet I spend virtually nothing.

How do I do it? Let me share my secrets. Here are 10 ways to get children’s clothes for free or next to nothing.

1. Host a Community Clothing Swap

This is a fun way to exchange clothes! Gather together for a few hours of light refreshments and swapping.

Invite friends, neighbors and community members who have children within a certain age category. Considering the ages of my kids, I would invite families with newborns to children about 6 years old.

Time your clothing exchanges about two to four weeks before the start of a new season. This way, your children will have some new items at crucial times, such as back-to-school season and summer break.

2. Sell Used Clothes at a Consignment Shop

Trade in your pre-worn clothes at consignment shops in person or online. Depending on the clothing’s quality, staff will usually offer you a store credit of 40%-50% of the selling price, which you can then use toward new clothes.

One store my family frequents is Once Upon a Child. This buy-and-sell children’s shop offers 30% of their selling price in cash. I take the money they offer me for my used children’s clothes and head to their 70% off rack, where I have found entire outfits for $1 and T-shirts for 40 cents, often brand-new with tags still on them.

3. Trade Your Services for Outgrown Clothes

Find a friend who has children one or two sizes up from yours, and offer to trade your time and effort for their kids’ outgrown clothes. For example, two nights of free babysitting for a garbage bag full of used clothes.

If babysitting isn’t your thing, consider what you bring to the table, whether it’s making them frozen meals for a week, cutting hair or changing the oil in their cars.

4. Create a Facebook Clothing Trade Group

Many local Facebook groups cater specifically to moms and parents.

Consider creating your own group focused on trading children’s clothes, with an emphasis on free clothing. People can post a photograph of an outfit and what they’re seeking in return.

This has the same feel of a community clothing swap, except it’s ongoing and you can request specific items, like rain boots, from a much larger group of people.

5. Repurpose Old Clothes

My children are always in need of pajamas. The problem: They rarely go on sale, and it’s hard to find used ones in good condition.

The good news is pajamas are for sleeping — not wearing outside — so who cares what they look like?

Consider putting your kids to sleep in T-shirts and track pants that are stained or worn out.

Or, search through your own drawers and find some old shirts you don’t wear. Use them as nightgowns or cut them in half. If you have any sewing abilities, you can even create a shorts and T-shirt set.

6. Create a List and Sort Through What You Have

Sit down for a moment and write out a list of clothes you think your children need. Perhaps you think they don’t have enough shorts, so you write down, “needs two extra pairs of shorts.”

Set aside an hour and go through all your children’s clothes. Make sure to check their dresser, under the couch, in overnight bags and in the dirty laundry. Sort and count all their clothing and write down each item in columns.

For example: 12 T-shirts, 10 pajamas, 15 shorts

Look at your original list. You wrote they needed extra shorts, yet you found a bunch you forgot about, and they actually have more than necessary!

Keep that list in your wallet, and when you feel tempted to buy them another pair of shorts, remind yourself: They already have 15 pairs!

7.  Borrow One-Time-Use Items

We all have those annoying events where our children need a pair of white shoes or a black dress, and you know they will never have to wear that item again.

Instead of blowing money for a single-use item, ask friends on social media or in person if they happen to have that item in the correct size. Borrow it for the event, write a nice thank-you card and offer to do the same for them next time.

My daughter has worn dresses slightly too big to events; nobody noticed, and my daughter loved knowing she was borrowing her older friend’s dress for the day.

8. Request Items for Birthdays and Christmas

Some might call this tacky, but I call it smart: If you have family and friends who typically buy your child a gift, make sure it’s something he or she needs.

Before a holiday, consider sending a quick email to your closest family members to let them know some of the items your child is running low on. Perhaps Grandma’s birthday present can be a new winter coat or a pair of rubber boots.

9. Check Craigslist for Free Items

Sometimes people post free clothing out of the goodness of their hearts.

Check out Craigslist every so often to see if someone giving away clothes for free.

10. Use Referral Programs

Look for online clothing retailers that provide referral credits, which can lead to free clothes for your family. Thred-up is one example of an online retailer that sells used clothing and offers a great referral program.

Your Turn: What are some ways you get free (or nearly free) clothes for your children?

Brianna Bell is a wife, mother and freelance writer specializing in articles on personal finance and family. She has been featured in the Globe & Mail, and has been referred to as a “tiger mom of personal finance.” You can find her blog at mrsbriannarose.blogspot.com and on Twitter @briannarbell.

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Eight Reasons Everyone Should Work in Food Service at Least Once

When my husband and I got married in 2005, we made a pact that certain things would (or wouldn’t ever) happen again.

None of it was out of the ordinary; it was just the regular stuff people promise one another when they tie the knot. In sickness and in health, for rich and for poor, ’til death do us part… and, as an added bonus, I would never have to work in food service again.

This was a joke between us. As young adults, we had both worked in food service on and off for years on end.  As a college student, my husband delivered sandwiches for a sub shop in Minnesota called Herbert & Gerbert’s. Then, while in mortuary school at age 24, he waited tables at a pizza shop, and I made fun of him for making his 16-year-old coworkers swoon.

Meanwhile, I’ve worked in nearly every food-service position imaginable – from hosting and front-of-house work to salad prep and, of course, waiting tables.

That last job – waiting tables – was the one I always turned to in my early 20s. As a result, I spent quite a few years slinging steaks at Outback Steakhouse. Not only were the hours flexible enough to go to school during the day or work a day job, but I felt like I had some control over the money I earned. Instead of making X dollars per hour no matter what, I could work harder than everyone else and make more – at least some of the time.

Sadly, waiting tables was also one of the worst jobs I’ve ever had. From being yelled at by a psychotic lady whose steak was overcooked to getting stiffed on the bill more than once, I experienced all manner of insults and indignities.

That’s why I made my new husband promise it would never come to that. Of course, I would work in food service again if I ever really needed to — but I didn’t want to. As a result, our “deal” was struck.

waitress and cook at restaurant kitchen window

Photo: Tim McClaren

Why Everyone Should Work in Food Service at Least Once

Funny thing is, I am already hoping my children find work in the food service industry, or at least some type of service industry down the line. At the risk of sounding like my mom for a minute, I personally found that working in food service builds character.

There, I said it.

Working as a waiter or waitress, cook, prep worker, or hostess is hard and stressful work – but it’s the kind of work that can help you become the person you were meant to be. Here are some reasons everyone could benefit from a few years behind the scenes in a restaurant:

Reason #1: You learn the value of hard work.

Being on your feet all day is a learning experience on its own, but running back and forth into the kitchen all day can be absolutely exhausting. Then, when your shift is over, you have to clean up all sorts of messes – including ones you didn’t make.

It is hard work, and it’s not for the faint of heart or for complainers who don’t want to do their share. When you work in food service, you learn how to keep working until the job is done, even when you’re completely spent and it’s the last thing in the world you want to do.

Reason #2: You find out what it feels like to do more than your share.

Speaking of hard work, food service was my personal introduction to doing more than my fair share. I’ve always been a busy-body, so it was natural for me to do extra work as my shift progressed. For example, I would always help run dirty dishes to the kitchen, deliver food for my coworkers, or clean up messes as the night progressed. Everyone else? Not so much.

If you’re a good employee in food service, you’ll learn a valuable lesson: When you do a good job, you usually end up doing other people’s work in addition to your own.

Sadly, the same scenario plays out in every type of workplace imaginable. In any type of job, there are the real workers and the people who fake it just enough to get through the day without anyone really noticing. The service industry just lays this fact bare.

The thing is, it’s a good habit to form. The hardest-working employees in almost any field have far less to worry about when it comes time for job cuts or performance reviews.

Reason #3: ‘Tipping out’ is your first introduction to wealth confiscation.

Most restaurant jobs require tipped employees like waitstaff to “tip out” to hostesses and some back-of-the-house employees. At Outback Steakhouse, this added up to 3% of each total bill I sold — whether I received a tip or not.

This wasn’t a big deal if someone tipped me the normal 15% to 20% on each check, but what if they didn’t? I have to say, it made me crazy when someone didn’t tip me at all, but I still had to fork over that 3%. Yes, you read that right: I occasionally had to pay money to wait on people. That’s not how it’s supposed to work!

Working in food service introduces you to a slew of economic concepts that play out in the real world, and one of those is the idea of being “taxed” regardless of individual fairness.

This is the real world – one where you sometimes have to pay in whether you like it or not. While it’s not always fair, that’s just the way it is. Your first stint in food service is like saying “hello” to large-scale unfairness for the first time.

Reason #4: You realize that you can’t please everyone.

Working in food service means serving all different personality types – from those who are happy to eat just about anything, to people who stare at their food in search of imperfections before they dig in.

The latter type can really ruin your day. Whether you cooked the food or are simply serving it, it’s incredibly disheartening to hear someone say that their food “looks funny,” “smells off,” or isn’t what they thought it was going to be. What does that even mean?

Eventually, you realize that some customers simply cannot be pleased. There are people who will send their food back five times and still refuse to pay the check.

Once again, that’s life. In food service, you deal with people like this every day. And while that sounds incredibly frustrating — and it is, I assure you! — handling such customers is a skill worth learning early on in life, because you’ll run into them elsewhere, too. It’s how you handle those situations that determines whether you remain in control – or let them control you.

Reason #5: You see what ‘cheap’ really is.

If you want to see cheap, head to Outback Steakhouse on a Sunday afternoon. What you’ll find is the essence of cheap – tables of 12 sharing a giant plate of cheese fries and hogging the table for two or three hours, then having the audacity to ask for a plate of lemons to make free lemonade.

Or, stop by on Friday nights. You’ll see tables of teenagers (and sometimes even adults) who never think to tip their waitstaff at all, no matter how good the service is — even though tips account for almost all of a waiter’s pay.

Whether you like it or not, your food service job forces you to wait on these people for free – and by the time you tip out, you’ll actually lose money for waiting on them. Not to mention that you’re losing out even more by not having a regular customer at those tables who would actually tip you.

Welcome to food service, where you learn what “cheap” really means — and that you never, ever want to be that guy. 

Reason #6: You learn how to treat others.

One night during my shift at Outback Steakhouse, I mixed up two orders. A lady who had ordered her prime rib rare received it well done, while her partner’s steak came in rare instead of medium.

My bad of course, but I had no idea what I was in for. This woman berated me for at least 10 minutes, even after I said I could have new food out right away and apologized incessantly. Not only did she call me “stupid,” but she screamed “you suck!” at least five different times.

My manager heard the racket and immediately told her to leave. “We don’t want your money,” he said. “Don’t come back.” Then he told me that nobody deserved to be treated that way, even if they made a mistake.

This is just one of the scenarios where food service taught me a valuable lesson.

First, people in the service industry are just regular people trying to do their jobs. They aren’t perfect, and they’ll make mistakes — that doesn’t mean they’re “stupid” or that they’re intentionally trying to ruin your day. While we deserve to get what we pay for, we should always treat others with respect, even if they mess up.

And second, I was in awe of my manager for standing up for me that way. I learned that the mighty dollar isn’t everything, and that there are times when you have to draw the line to protect your team.

To a certain extent, we decide how we let others treat us, and there are times when losing a customer is the only way to protect yourself and your integrity.

Reason #7: If you work harder, you’ll earn more money.

As painful as food service jobs can be, they can sometimes offer the ability to earn extra money. That’s especially true if you’re a hard worker or someone with excellent time management and multi-tasking skills.

If you can turn over your tables quickly and get more customers during your shift, you can usually earn more money. If you provide really top-notch service, you can usually earn more money. If you can make your customers feel valued and appreciated, you’ll usually see an uptick in the tips you earn. If you can do all of those things consistently, you will earn more money than your peers over time.

This is an important lesson, and one that will translate to any other career you find yourself in. When you work harder than other people, give it everything you have, and stay positive throughout it all, you will come out ahead. When you never give up, refuse to let negative people get you down, and really put pride into your work, your final results will show it.

This lesson is important, because it’s true whether you’re climbing the corporate ladder, creating your own small business, or waiting tables. When you put in as much as you can, the payoff can manifest in ways you would never expect. That’s why you should always do your best – no matter what type of job you’re in.

Reason #8: You build thick skin.

When you work in food service, you learn that some people simply cannot be won over. They’ll complain about your food, your service, or the way you wear your hair. Then they’ll stiff you on the bill, giving you a dirty look on the way out.

Then there are barbs from co-workers, many of whom might be hungover from the night before – or simply stressed by the prospect of pleasing their own customers that day. They’ll snap at you when you don’t deserve it, blame you for things that are out of your control, and put you down.

It will bother you at first, but you’ll eventually decide you can’t control everyone. You can do your best, remain positive, and try to make your customers and coworkers happy, but there will be times when someone is having a bad day and they’ll take it out on you.

Working in the service industry can help you become numb to all of that noise. It can help you build a thick skin that almost no one can break through. And trust me, no matter where you end up later in life, you’re gonna need it.

Final Thoughts

A food service job is hard work — and it’ll be especially miserable if you’re lazy or overly sensitive. You’re usually hustling on your feet all day or night, and you have to deal with all different types of personalities and keep the peace with people you may not even like.

But all of that builds character, and that character can help you become a better, stronger person.

That’s why I don’t want to spare my kids from the horrors of food service, and also why I’m thankful for all of the years I spent serving others. The experiences – both good and bad – taught me some valuable lessons that I carry to this day. And sometimes, the only way to learn something is to live through it yourself.

What lessons did you learn from your most demanding job? Do you think everyone could benefit from working in a restaurant at some point? 

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This Is Your Brain on Money

Psychology of money

Twice each year, I add up our bank accounts and other assets to see where we are financially.

Then, my wife and I look at the numbers. It makes us feel good (well, most of the time).

Money is a drug.

Many writers use this metaphor, but it’s more than just figurative. Research shows your brain reacts to cash in some of the same ways it reacts to drugs.

In fact, your brain’s response to various financial situations can cause you pleasure or pain, make you feel stronger, even make you refuse to take free money.

Here are some of the latest findings about your money and your brain, and a few suggestions as to what you can do to benefit from — or avoid — the effects of the drug called money.

Getting High on Money

Using functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI), scientists scan people’s brains while they think certain thoughts or engage in specific activities — and these studies help us learn more about money’s effects on the brain.

For example, in one experiment outlined by Harvard Business Review, participants played a game for money while hooked up to fMRI devices.

The brain scans of people about to make money were almost identical to those of drug addicts high on cocaine. Specifically, there was more neural activity in the nucleus accumbens.

Here’s what one of the researchers said:

“We very quickly found out that nothing had an effect on people like money — not naked bodies, nor corpses. It got people riled up. Like food provides motivation for dogs, money provides it for people…”

In another study, researchers predicted whether people would choose riskier investments based on activity in the nucleus accumbens.

We can see two takeaways here:

1. Instead of using other drugs, why not make some money for a safer high?

2. Be careful: The money “high” can lead to riskier choices. When you feel too excited about a financial decision, slow down and think about it.

Why You Might Refuse Free Money

The ultimatum game is an experiment involving two volunteers.

Researchers designate an amount of money, and a “proposer” offers a portion of the money to a “responder.”

If the responder accepts, he gets the money proposed and the proposer gets the rest. If he refuses, they both leave with nothing.

If you’re the responder, and the proposer offers you $15 of the $100 the two of you get to share, you can say yes or no. If you say yes, you get $15 and the proposer gets $85. If you say no, you both go home with nothing.

Game theory suggests as “self-interested income maximizers,” proposers will offer as little as possible to keep more and responders will accept any proposal, rather than getting nothing.

But in practice, proposers often offer close to 50% of the money, and responders often refuse low offers — especially offers of 20% of the money or less.

Researchers get the same results all over the world, even when participants play for the equivalent of three months’ salary.

Yes, people refuse free money, perhaps just to punish the proposer for making an “unfair” offer. With fMRI, we can see what’s going on in the decision-makers’ brains.

While making the decision, the proposer’s dorsolateral prefrontal cortex lights up, reports Harvard Business Review. This is the center of awareness and we use it when we solve problems.

When a responder gets a low offer, the anterior insula is activated. This part of the brain is involved when you feel anxiety, pain and hunger.

In fact, the anterior insula has “spindle cells,” commonly found in your digestive system — so you may have a very real “gut feeling” when you consider financial choices.

Watch for your own brain’s reaction when it might lead to irrational decisions.

For example, you might refuse an “unfair” offer for a table in the last hour of your rummage sale, even though you’ll end up just giving away the table away to be rid of it. It would be better to make at least some money, right?

As a real estate agent, I saw this phenomenon often. People felt the value others put on their home was unfair, so they refused to sell when market-price offers came in. Then, they were forced to sell for even less because they needed to move soon.

Try to mentally set aside the “fairness” of an offer. Instead, look at it in terms of how your finances will be affected if you accept it.

Money as a Pain Reliever

Money can relieve pain, according to a number of studies covered by LiveScience.com.

One experiment found people who counted money experienced less pain if they dipped their hands in hot water afterwards. Another found they felt more pain from the hot water if they first wrote about their recent expenses.

Physical pain isn’t the only kind affected by money. Researchers also found counting money diminished the pain of social distress. Writing about their bills caused participants an increase in psychological pain when they were put in a position to feel social distress.

You can use these findings at home.

Got a headache? Try counting money.

And if you’re a shy person, you might want to put an extra wad of cash in your pocket before going to a party.

Money, Love and Strength

Other reports on money’s effects on our brains suggest it can be a substitute for love and make us feel stronger.

Money can substitute for social acceptance and reduce the pain of social discomfort, found Xinyue Zhou, a scientist at Sun Yat-Sen University in China.

“We think money works as a substitute for another pain buffer — love,” he says.

In experiments where volunteers counted money and put their hands in hot water, they experienced another effect beyond pain relief: Participants reported feeling stronger.

So, maybe keep a little pile of money around for counting, to relieve pain as needed and fool your brain — you might feel loved and a little stronger.

The Money Illusion

Economists say the “money illusion” is when people get fixated on the nominal value of money, rather than on what it buys.

Thanks to fMRI machines, we can now see this tendency in action within the brain, The Independent reports.

In one experiment, volunteers were given a “salary” for doing computer tasks, and could then spend the money on items in a catalog. But some were given 50% more money and a catalog with 50% higher prices.

In other words, whether they had the higher or lower salary, they had the exact same spending power.

But try to tell that to your brain!

Researchers found the brain’s reward centers were much more active when participants earned the higher salary, even though they couldn’t buy more than on the lower salary. The bigger numbers alone were enough to trigger a bigger response.

That is your brain on money.

Your Turn: Do you feel better when you handle money, and do you believe you can overcome your brain’s irrational tendencies when it comes to financial decisions?

Steve Gillman is the author of “101 Weird Ways to Make Money” and creator of EveryWayToMakeMoney.com. He’s been a repo-man, walking stick carver, search engine evaluator, house flipper, tram driver, process server, mock juror and roulette croupier, but of more than 100 ways he has made money, writing is his favorite (so far).

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Annual house prices rise over 10%, says Halifax

Annual property prices in the UK rose by 10.1% in March, which is the biggest increase since July 2014, according to new housing data.

Over the first three months of the year, the Halifax House Price Index shows that house prices have risen by 2.9% when compared with the final quarter of 2015, which puts the average house price at £214,811.

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The New Costco Credit Card: Is It Worth It?

After a 16-year partnership, Costco announced the end of its relationship with American Express late last year. Sadly, this news also served as the death knell for Costco’s popular co-branded credit card, which was offered through American Express.

But Costco wasn’t quitting the credit card game – not by a long shot. Instead of partnering with American Express, they said, they would launch a new co-branded credit card with the help of Citigroup and Visa.

While Costco credit card users may have been initially dismayed by the change, they have plenty to celebrate now. In fact, the details shared so far make the new card look much more appealing than its predecessor. Let’s take a look at the new benefits you can score by signing up for the new Coscto Visa credit card:

The New Costco Visa at a Glance

  • Costco’s new Visa card will offer 4% cash back on your first $7,000 in gas purchases each year, up from 3% with the old version of the card.
  • The new card offers 3% back on travel and dining purchases, including international dining! The older American Express version of this card, on the other hand, offered just 2% and excluded restaurants abroad.
  • All other Costco purchases made with the new card will earn 2%, an improvement from the 1% back on all purchases offered by the old version of the card.
  • This card comes with no annual fee, although you do have to spring for an annual Costco membership to qualify.
  • You can redeem your rewards for shopping vouchers to use at Costco.

Verdict: The Perfect Card for People Who Shop at Costco Anyway

If you live near a Costco and already have a membership, the new Costco credit card will be an absolute no-brainer. While it doesn’t come with a signup bonus, it does offer an amazing 4 percent cash back on your first $7,000 spent at Costco gas stations, plus 3 percent back on dining and select travel purchases, and 2 percent back on all other Costco purchases. As a Visa card, this card can also be used anywhere Visa is accepted. For all purchases that fall outside of one of the “bonus categories,” you’ll earn the standard 1 percent cash back. No matter how you look at it, that isn’t bad at all.

If you already have a Costco membership, which runs around $55, and you shop there often or fill up at their gas station, you could save a ton of money by signing up for the new Costco card. If you drive a lot and manage to max out the gas benefit, for example, you can score an easy $280 in cash back every year. And if you load up on groceries and essentials at Costco, you could easily earn a whole lot more.

As an example, let’s say you spend around $1,000 on groceries, toiletries, and personal care items at Coscto each month. At the end of the year, you’ll have another $240 in rewards to spend – and all for buying items you would have purchased anyway.

The New Costco Credit Card: Where It Falls Flat

Of course, the new Costco Visa credit card won’t be perfect for everyone. If you don’t live near a Costco or have no desire to buy in bulk, for example, you wouldn’t benefit much from this card.

Second, its rewards program is really only good for cash vouchers to use at Costco. If you just want to earn free groceries, then that might be just fine. But if you hoped to earn rewards you could use for travel or gift cards, the new Costco Visa card will leave a lot to be desired.

Who This Card Is Good For:

  • Costco shoppers
  • People who have thought about trying Costco in the past, but needed an incentive
  • Those who want to earn free vouchers to use at Costco

 Who Should Pass:

  • People who want to earn rewards for travel
  • Those who want to earn a signup bonus
  • Anyone who doesn’t shop at Costco

How Does It Compare to Other Grocery Cards?

To see how the new Costco card might compare to other cards you would use at the grocery store, we compared its benefits to the Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express. Here’s what we found:

 
New Costco Visa Card
Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express
Annual Fee $0, but you do need a $55 membership $75
Signup Bonus $0 $150 after you spend $1,000 within 90 days
Earnings Structure Earn 4x points on $7,000 in gas spending, 3x points on dining and select travel purchases, 2x points at Costco and Costco.com, and 1x points on all other purchases Earn 6x points on your first $6,000 in grocery spending each year, 3x points at gas stations and select department stores, and 1x points on all other purchases
Rewards Options Redeem points for Costco vouchers Earn statement credits you can use anywhere

As you can see, the Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express comes out ahead in several respects. First, it offers a full 6 percent cash back on your first $6,000 in grocery spending. And second, it offers a signup bonus.

Lastly, the Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express comes out way ahead in terms of flexibility. Unlike the Costco card that offers the most points when you buy gas and groceries at Costco stores, the Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express lets you earn the “extra points” no matter where you spend your money. If you like to shop at several stores or don’t like going to Costco every time you need gas or groceries, this flexibility can be extremely important.

The Costco card, on the other hand, looks slightly better if you spend a ton of money on gas every month and live close enough to Costco that heading there to fill up isn’t a big inconvenience. Second, it doesn’t charge an annual fee at all – unless, of course, you count the Costco membership, which you need to purchase anyway if you already shop there. The Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express, on the other hand, does charge a $75 annual fee. If you’re fee-averse, that is definitely something to take into account.

Best Strategy with the Costco Credit Card: Pair It with the Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express

If you spend a ton of money at gas stations and grocery stores but don’t want to be tied down to Costco for all of your grocery spending, you could really benefit if you signed up for both the Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express and the new Costco credit card.

To maximize both cards, you could:

  • Use your Costco credit card for toiletries and household essentials for 2 percent back, plus earn 4 percent back on your first $7,000 in gas station purchases.
  • Use your Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express for your first $6,000 in grocery spending at non-Costco stores each year, then switch your grocery shopping to Costco to earn 2 percent back after that.
  • Use your Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express to earn 3 percent back when you need to fill up on gas and aren’t near Costco.
  • Use your Costco credit card on dining and travel purchases to earn 3 percent back.

By using both cards in their respective “bonus categories,” you can earn a lot more cash back over the course of a year. Just remember, your Costco rewards can only be used at Costco stores. Statement credits from American Express, on the other hand, can be used to cover nearly any expense.

Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express

Highlights:

Want Flexible Rewards? Consider This Card Instead

If you want rewards you can redeem a number of different ways, it might be smart to get a travel card instead of, or in addition to, your new Costco credit card. Among flexible travel credit cards, the Chase Sapphire Preferred® card is one of the most popular options.

With this card, you’ll only earn 2x points on travel and dining and 1x points on all other purchases. However, you’ll also earn a huge signup bonus! Plus, you can redeem your rewards in several ways depending on your needs.

As one of their most lucrative options, Chase Ultimate Rewards points transfer at a 1:1 ratio to several popular airline and hotel loyalty programs including Southwest Rapid Rewards, British Airways Executive Club, United MileagePlus Explorer, Marriott, IHG, and Hyatt. If you’re heavily involved in one of these travel programs already, signing up for this card can help you bring your rewards to the next level.

If you’re overwhelmed with all those transfer partners, you can redeem your points for travel directly through the Chase travel portal with a 20% discount. While that may sound daunting, it’s actually rather easy. Booking through the Chase travel portal is a lot like booking travel through Expedia; after you enter your trip details, you’ll be presented with a list of options to choose from.

Lastly, you can redeem your points for cash back or high-value gift cards at a rate of one cent per point. If you’re scared of getting stuck with points you can’t use, this is one option to get excited about. If you get the Chase Sapphire Preferred® card to earn points for travel but your travel plans fall through for some reason, you can rest assured your points are good for cash back as well. And, who can’t use cash back?

Chase Sapphire Preferred® card

Highlights:

If you want to learn more about the Chase Sapphire Preferred® card, you can read our full review here.

Final Thoughts

If you are a Costco enthusiast and spend a ton of money at the store already, you’ll want to look into the new Costco credit card as soon as you can. With 4x points on gas, 3x points on travel and dining, and 2x points on Costco purchases, you can score a ton of easy cash back just by using your card and paying it off every month.

However, the new Costco credit card doesn’t have to be your only credit card. With many other rewards credit cards on the market, you can rack up even more points and miles with some basic planning and a simple strategy.

Best Rewards Credit Cards Directory

If you want to compare the new Costco card’s benefits to other rewards cards, check out our rewards card directory.

Sort, filter, or search for what matters most to find the best rewards credit card for you.

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The post The New Costco Credit Card: Is It Worth It? appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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New issue of How to Retire in Style hits the newsstands

The fourth issue of How to Retire is now available from all leading newsagents.

From the team that brings you Moneywise each month, How to Retire in Style will help you get the retirement you want – whether you are ready to retire and working out how you will turn your pension into an income, or younger and looking for ways to boost your savings.

read more



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New issue of How to Retire in Style hits the newsstands

The fourth issue of How to Retire is now available from all leading newsagents.

From the team that brings you Moneywise each month, How to Retire in Style will help you get the retirement you want – whether you are ready to retire and working out how you will turn your pension into an income, or younger and looking for ways to boost your savings.

read more



Source Moneywise http://ift.tt/1SeMDDG

Stop Looking for Zappos Coupon Codes: We Found 6 Real Ways to Save

zappos coupon code

Shopping for shoes online might be the most indulgent, enjoyable way to procrastinate.

But while discount sites offer nice prices, they don’t always have the quality I’m looking for. I’m not saying I’m a sucker for a name brand, but … I might be.

For a while, I assumed I couldn’t I couldn’t afford to shop at Zappos. But over time, I’ve found the best answer to my shoe-shopping needs is hiding right under my nose, in plain sight.

If you refuse to shop without a free shipping code or discount coupon, read on: We’ve found the best ways to save at Zappos — and they might surprise you.

The Only Way You Can’t Save at Zappos

First things first: There’s no such thing as a Zappos coupon code.

Stop searching. It’s a waste of time.

“Many online sites may claim to have Zappos.com coupons or discounts,” the retailer’s website explains. “But the truth is Zappos.com does not offer coupons or promotion codes.”

So while you won’t be stacking codes to get 99% off, there are still ways to save big at Zappos.

Here are our top six tips for satisfying shoe shopping.

1. Get Free Shipping Just for Showing Up

Ever scrambled to add $4.25 worth of product to an order so you could get free shipping?

Not here.

Be warned, though, free shipping doesn’t mean your order will arrive immediately. Your shoes or sweaters or satchels are going to take the slow truck to your doorstep.

Getting a product in four to five business days isn’t long to wait — but it might seem like it in our instant-gratification-focused lives.

And if that shoe or sweater doesn’t fit? All returns are free, and you have an entire year to return new merchandise for a full refund.

2. Show Up Enough That You Get VIP Status

The Zappos VIP program is mysterious.

There’s nothing on the company’s site about how to be eligible or how to sign up. It just sort of… happens.

How many purchases does it take to get VIP status? I have no idea.

I’ve been a customer for about five years, but have only made a few purchases a year (maybe three pairs of shoes). I am an unreliable narrator.

When I asked Zappos to spill the beans, I received the response I expected: The VIP program is “something we like to remain a mystery,” according to Molly Beare, PR communication advisor to the CEO.

But once you’re in, you never get kicked out of VIP — and you get free one-business-day shipping all the time.

There’s even an exclusive customer service number for VIP members, should you need help with a return or other problem.

One-day shipping without VIP status costs $25.

3. Use the Zappos App

Not a VIP customer? No problem.

Download the Zappos app for iOS, Android or Kindle and get free one-business-day shipping when you order through the app.

Zappos also indicates app users get the first look at new merch, but you’ll have to try it for yourself to see how good the sneak peeks are.

4. Check for Price Changes

Keep an eye on your recent orders!

Zappos is known for its customer service, which includes considerable efforts to keep money in your pocket.

If an item you order from Zappos goes on sale on the site within 10 days of your purchase, get on the horn with the company. It’ll refund the difference to your original payment method.

(Don’t feel like monitoring potential price changes yourself? There’s an app for that.)

5. Get the Visa Rewards Card

If you’re in the market for a new credit card, Zappos has you covered.

The Zappos.com Rewards Visa card offers three points for every dollar spent on the retailer’s site, and one point per dollar spent elsewhere.

Rewards are automatically delivered by email: Every time you hit 2,500 points, you’ll get a $25 Zappos.com gift card.

Need more reasons to sign up? There’s no annual fee, and you get a $25 statement credit after your first purchase with your shiny new card.

6. Use Discounted Gift Cards

One of our favorite penny-hoarding secrets is to buy discounted gift cards before making online purchases at our favorite stores.

If you haven’t tried it yet, be warned — you’re going to get hooked.

Discounts and availability fluctuate, but while writing this post we checked out Zappos gift cards on Raise. There were $100 gift cards available at an 8.7% discount, for $91.33. These e-cards are available instantly, perfect for those late-night shopping kicks.

Saving 8.7% might not seem like a lot, but wouldn’t you rather save $8 so you have it to spend on something else?

As we like to say around here, if you take care of the pennies, the dollars will take care of themselves.

Your Turn: What are your best tips for shopping and saving at Zappos?

Lisa Rowan is a writer, editor and podcaster living in Washington, D.C. She spends more time shopping for shoes than anything else she owns.

The post Stop Looking for Zappos Coupon Codes: We Found 6 Real Ways to Save appeared first on The Penny Hoarder.



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