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الاثنين، 10 يوليو 2017

Consumer Watchdog: Amazon Prime Day More Like ‘Slime Day’

While you’re busy making your shopping list for Amazon Prime Day, Consumer Watchdog is warning against the Amazon’s pricing practices.

“While Amazon celebrates its Prime Day, their pricing scams may make it more like Slime Day,” said John M. Simpson, Consumer Watchdog Privacy Project director.

Last week, Consumer Watchdog asked the Federal Trade Commission to prevent Amazon’s purchase of high-end grocery chain Whole Foods until it stops using pricing practices it alleges are deceptive and may violate the commission’s rules.

Consumer Watchdog conducted two studies this year. The first, in March, looked into market prices. The group says it found the “list” price Amazon showed alongside the site’s current price made customers think they were getting a deal.

The organization says those list prices were much higher than prices typically available from other retailers and created a straw man reference price that was basically fake.

Amazon refuted the report, claiming it used list prices when it had compelling info and the “was” price to show a discount off its own pricing.

In June 2017, Consumer Watchdog used independent price-comparison tool Nextag to conduct a second study of 1,000 products on Amazon’s site to evaluate the new pricing scheme.

The organization says it found that 61% of “was” prices were higher than any price observed on the site in the previous 90 days. It also claims that 38% of reference prices were higher than any price Amazon had charged for the product.

“In other words, in nearly four in ten cases, Amazon never appeared to charge the previous price from which it claimed to be discounting,” John Simpson, the organization’s privacy project director, wrote in a letter to the Federal Trade Commission and the Department of Justice last week. “The ‘price’ was entirely fictitious.”

The bright spot in the latest report: “Strikethrough prices were found to be highly reliable,” the letter noted. “All prices with just a line through them (and no words suggesting what they referenced) corresponded to actual prices charged by Amazon in the recent past.”

Meanwhile… How to Shop Smart

Consumers looking for deals on Amazon shouldn’t take pricing at face value, Simpson said in a press conference today.

“Look online. If you see something you want and it’s convenient, you can make your own independent judgement about whether you should buy it or not,” he said. “Don’t believe the notion that these are great deals. You should be comparing the prices elsewhere yourself.”

Lisa Rowan is a writer and producer at The Penny Hoarder.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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CLOSING BELL: US stock indexes finish mixed; tech gains

Gains in technology and materials companies were mostly outweighed by losses elsewhere on Wall Street, leaving major indexes mixed at the closing bell.

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Not Sure How to Have the Money Talk With Your Kids? Here’s Where to Start

The birds and the bees. Divorce. Death.

These topics are sure to make even the most confident parent squirm with awkwardness when it comes to discussing them with their kids.

Add talking about money to the list.

M&G Investments surveyed more than 500 parents in the United Kingdom and found that one in six lacked the confidence to teach their children about vital money skills, even though 83% believed they should be the ones doling out that knowledge, MSN reported.

Some parents surveyed thought the responsibility of teaching kids about money should also fall on others’ shoulders:

  • 55% said schools should teach financial literacy
  • 28% said kids should learn about money on their own
  • 27% said grandparents should give financial advice

M&G Investments also surveyed more than 360 grandparents, and 60% of them said they played a role in teaching their grandkids about money, according to MSN.

So what do you do when you feel clueless when it comes to teaching your child how to manage the dollars and cents?

It doesn’t matter if your kids are young or about to go to college having discussions about financial literacy doesn’t have to be unbearable.

Luckily, The Penny Hoarder has an ultimate guide to teaching kids about money. Our guide has advice from experts, stories from real-life parents and tips on what to do even if you’re bad with money yourself.

And remember, your kids pick up a lot by example. Watching you work, pay off debt and save can be a great start to teach them positive lessons about finances. You don’t want them to become young adults who believe these money myths.

Having serious life conversations can be tough, but don’t skip over the complicated ones and don’t be one of the parents who tell their kids these money lies. Honesty is the best policy.

Nicole Dow is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. She is the parent of a 2-year-old daughter who loves dropping money into her piggy bank and selling items to people from her pretend store.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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Protect Yourself From This Scary Scam That Could Cost You Your Dream Home

You spent years saving.

You looked at more homes than you can count.

You finally found the perfect place in your dream neighborhood and have probably already started decorating it in your mind while you wait on closing.

But before you get too excited, listen up: The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau is warning about a new scam that could cost you thousands of dollars and pull your new home out from under you.

Here’s How the Scam Works

According to the CFPB, the scam is surprisingly simple. The victims tend to be people who are only days away from closing on a new home.

Although you likely have already worked out the details of the closing process with your real estate agent and closing agent, the scammer pretends to be someone involved in the closing process, like the settlement agent, title company or attorney, and sends you an email saying the process has changed.

The scammers send you the email in an attempt to get you to send your down payment and closing costs to them. And of course, once you do, your money is gone.

“The email falsely claims there has been a last minute change in the closing process, for example, that a check is no longer acceptable or that the wiring instructions have changed,” the CFPB said. “It instructs the homebuyer to wire or otherwise electronically transmit the closing funds to an account that the scammers control.”

How to Protect Yourself

The CFPB provides several tips on how keep yourself safe from scammers when you’re buying a home.

  1. Speak directly to your real estate or settlement agent to understand the closing process. Make sure you fully understand the details. If you get an email about the process changing, call your agent to make sure it’s legit.
  1. If you get a suspicious email, don’t call any phone numbers or click any links in the email in question. Instead, call the phone number you already use to contact your agent. Ask your agent to verify any changes.
  1. Never email any financial information, and don’t open any attachments.
  1. If you think the email is legitimate, take the extra step of reaching out to your bank. Bank employees can spot red flags that could be signs of a scam, including slight differences in an account holder’s name or an account number that other consumers have filed complaints against.
  1. Finally, once you wire money, make sure the intended recipient received it. If the person has not received the money, contact your bank immediately. You only have a small window to reverse a wire transfer.

Already a Victim of This Scam? Here’s What You Do Next

If you’re reading this a bit too late and know your money is with a scammer, there are a few steps you can take.

Start by reaching out to your bank or the company you used to make the wire transfer. If you’re lucky, you may still be able to reverse the transfer. That’s your best chance of getting your hard-earned money back quickly.

From there, make sure to report the scam to the Federal Trade Commission and file a complaint with the FBI’s Internet Crime Complaint Center.

Both agencies will investigate the crime and try to get your money back. Your information might also help protect other people in the future.

Desiree Stennett (@desi_stennett) is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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You Won’t Believe How Much Delicious Food I Got for Just $7.99 at IKEA

Tuesday is 7/11, and That Means Free 7-Eleven Slurpees for Everyone!

It’s that time of year when an ice-cold beverage really hits the spot. And when that ice-cold beverage is free — well, then it hits your wallet quite nicely, too.

Tuesday, July 11, 2017, is 7-Eleven Day, also known as “Free Slurpee Day.” That’s because simply entering any participating 7-Eleven convenience store between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. on 7/11 (get it yet?) gets you a free small Slurpee.

If you’re a member of the 7Rewards program (buy six 7-Eleven drinks and get the seventh one free), you’ll get twice the perks because your free Slurpee counts as a “punch” on your loyalty card app, taking you one step closer to scoring yet another freebie.

But wait, there’s more!

Turn Every 7th Slurpee Into a Freebie

Free Slurpees are cool enough, but the 7Rewards app is pretty cool, too.

Just download the app on your iOS or Android device, and you’re on your way to any free self-serve drink, including Slurpees. Scan your app with every self-serve drink purchase (coffee, Slurpee, Big Gulp, Chiller Iced Coffee, etc.), and when you reach six purchases, you get the seventh for free!

Any size cup counts toward your free seventh drink. What’s more, you can choose any size you like as your freebie. So, you could buy six small Slurpees and still get the largest available size as your freebie.

If you want to maximize your free Slurpee savings on July 11, you could hit six 7-Elevens for freebies and scan your rewards app at each one, then score the free seventh Slurpee, giving you a Slurpee buzz that would make Bart Simpson jealous.

We’re not saying this is recommended on either a health or an ethical level, but, you know… you could.

Kelly Gurnett is a freelance blogger, writer and editor who runs the blog Cordelia Calls It Quits, where she documents her attempts to rid her life of the things that don’t matter and focus more on the things that do. Follow her on Twitter @CordeliaCallsIt.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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The Magical Penny That Grows to Over $10 Million Dollars in 31 Days

Imagine you're the recipient of an amazing windfall. The catch is, you get to decide how your “winnings” are paid out.

For the purpose of this experiment, you can choose from $2,000 cash money or a “magical penny” that doubles in value for 31 days straight. Either option will leave you with more money than you started with, but one choice leaves you a lot better off.

So, which option would YOU choose?

This is the exact question I posed when I spoke to around 100 students at my Alma Mater earlier this year. And, the group reacted almost exactly as you'd expect.

Out of around 100 students, at least 90 said they would choose $2,000 in cash with no questions asked.

Since that's a lot of money for a broke college kid, I totally get it. When you're a struggling student, a guaranteed $2,000 is a no-brainer.

But, is it really the better deal? Or, is there more to the story?

Introducing the Magical Penny Concept

By now, you can probably guess that the magical penny has a few tricks up its sleeve. And, it absolutely does. While $2,000 in the bank is a nice surprise, a quick run of the numbers should tell you which choice will leave you better off.

The crazy thing is, it's not even close!

Believe it or not, choosing a magical penny that doubles in value every day for 31 days would help you grow over $10 million dollars in riches!

Don't believe me?

I don't blame you. When I first told my wife Mandy about the magical penny concept, she rolled her eyes and said I was crazy. It was only after I ran through the numbers with her that she realized my magic penny wasn't dumb or cheap, but an absolute miracle.

You see, $2,000 is $2,000, but that money isn't growing. But, a penny that doubles in value every day? That penny will eventually explode due to the magic of compound interest. Day after day and week after week, the growth the penny achieves doubles again and again.

Over time, the doubling and compounding takes on a life of its own……leading to inconceivable amounts of wealth.

You can hear more about the experiment and the magic of compounding in this Facebook video:

How to Apply the Magical Penny Concept In  Real Life

While magical pennies don't actually exist, the concept that drives them is actually very common. This story illustrates nothing more than the power of compounding anyone can gain by investing their money continuously over their lifetime.

Unfortunately, not everyone is taught the value of investing early on. When I asked the students at my Alma Mater how much they were taught about investing while they were growing up, most people went blank. They were told they should save and invest, but few people were shown how to invest or, even more importantly, where to invest.

Most parents from the baby boomer generation and beyond learned to impart basic financial advice on their kids without including many specific details. While some solid money advice is better than nothing, the lack of specifics leaves young people without any know-how when it comes to investing or growing their money.

Obviously, I want to change that – not only for my own kids, but for anyone who wants to build the life of their dreams.

So, how can you apply the magical penny concept to your own financial life?

The answer is rather simple.

  • Step 1: Save a large percentage of your income and avoid debt like the plague.
  • Step 2: Take advantage of work-sponsored 401(k) options and make sure you're getting your full employer match.
  • Step 3: Then, save up the money to open a Roth IRA or traditional IRA to invest even more.
  • Step 4: If you have even more excess cash to invest, open a brokerage account.

Over time, the returns you get will compound on themselves over and over and over, leading to greater wealth and security than most people could imagine.

While compound interest isn't rocket science, it is magic. By investing regularly, you can grab some of that magic for yourself.

The Bottom Line

Chances are, you'll never receive a magical penny in your lifetime. However, you can absolutely get rich if you take the magical penny concept and use it to your advantage.

But, it all starts with you and how you handle your money from this day forward. Will you invest for the future, or take the quick money and run?

At the end of the day, only you can decide.

magical doubling penny

The post The Magical Penny That Grows to Over $10 Million Dollars in 31 Days appeared first on Good Financial Cents.



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How to Tweak Your PPC Strategy During the Holiday Season

Just like in life, there’s an ebb and flow to marketing success.

That means a huge part of finding success as a marketer is being adaptable.

This allows you to capitalize on trends and strike while the iron is hot.

And if there’s any time of year that impacts sales and marketing, it’s the holidays.

In fact, nearly a fifth (19.2%) of retail sales take place over the holiday season.

It’s big business.

And holiday retail sales are only continuing to grow, which is great news for marketers.

While there was a drop off in 2008 and 2009, during the recession, sales have been growing each year ever since.

Here’s a graph that illustrates that growth:

Of course, you want your slice of the pie.

But to get it, you’ll need to modify your approach in several areas of marketing.

One area in particular is PPC.

When it comes to your PPC campaign, you’ll want to tweak your strategy during the holiday season to cash in on the surplus of sales.

And considering the fact that “PPC visitors are 50% more likely to buy than organic visitors,” the holidays are rife with opportunity.

It’s almost like shooting fish in a barrel.

In this post, I’d like to point out some specific adjustments you can make to your PPC strategy that should minimize your CPC, increase your CTR and maximize your ROI.

Start by creating a new campaign

Let’s start with a couple of preliminary steps.

First, I strongly recommend creating an entirely new campaign, specifically designed for the holidays.

This will allow you to shift from the holiday season to the post-holiday season with ease and zero disruption.

It’ll also make it easier to stay organized and will minimize any confusion later on.

And when next year comes around, the campaign will already be set up for you.

If you’re using AdWords, check out this guide for step-by-step instructions on how to create a new campaign.

Analyze last year’s data

This won’t be applicable if this is your first year running a PPC campaign during the holidays.

But if you’ve done it in the past, it’s super helpful to take a look at last year’s, as well as several previous years’, data.

Some specific elements you’ll want to examine are:

  • keyword performance
  • CPCs
  • CTRs
  • overall conversion rates

Looking at the CTRs of this list of keywords provides instant insights:

Make note of any interesting trends that could give you an edge this year.

Then write down your top four or five keywords because these can serve as the nucleus of this year’s campaign. You can build around those.

If you notice any keywords that bombed or vastly underperformed, you may want to scrap them because there are bound to be better, more profitable keywords out there.

Use holiday modifiers

Once you’ve analyzed last year’s data, you should have a handful of keywords to focus on.

These are good to go.

But what you can also do is adjust the ad copy of your top performing keywords you use normally throughout the year by adding holiday modifiers to them.

This is pretty easy to do, and some quick keyword research should supply you with plenty of ideas.

Here’s an example.

From your Google Keyword Planner dashboard, enter the term “holidays.”

Scroll down just a bit, and you’ve got hundreds of different keyword ideas to choose from:

Now, all you have to do is add a holiday-related keyword phrase to your existing keyword.

For example, you might use “Holiday deals on [keyword].”

Use Google Trends for insights

Here’s another helpful trick you can use to see how people are responding to certain holiday-related phrases.

Go to Google Trends, and enter a few different search terms you want to compare.

I’ll use “holiday special,” “holiday sale” and “Christmas savings” as an example.

First, I’ll set it to the “Past 12 months” option to see which search terms received the most interest last year.

As you can see here, “holiday sale” has received the most interest among these three choices.

Then, I’ll set it to the “Past 5 years” option for an even better perspective:

Everything looks consistent.

Between the Google Keyword Planner and Google Trends, you should be able to generate plenty of good ideas for ways to adjust your ad copy to appeal to holiday shoppers.

Incorporate discount-oriented keywords

The holidays are synonymous with deals and discounts.

There’s Black Friday, Cyber Monday, etc.

One way to attract shoppers and increase your CTR is to use keywords involving some sort of a deal.

Here are a few examples you see quite frequently:

Again, you can use Google Trends to see just how receptive shoppers are to these various keywords.

A quick comparison of “coupons,” “promotions” and “specials” lets me know that “coupons” gets far more searches than the other two:

Of course, you’ll actually need to back up your offer by offering discounts on the products you feature in your ads.

Needless to say, simply using discount-oriented keywords without an actual discount is going to hurt your conversion rate and send your CPC through the roof.

But incorporating the right deal-oriented keywords should bring shoppers’ attention to your ads and improve your CTR.

Experiment with other promotions

Besides traditional discounts, there are other types of promotions that shoppers respond favorably to.

Here’s how they break down:

You can cash in on this by working these types of promotions into your PPC campaign.

I did some quick keyword research on the “buy one get one” phrase and was amazed to see the low competition levels.

See for yourself:

Although you need to be conscious of your profit margins when executing promotions, this can level up your PPC strategy and send an influx of eager shoppers your way.

Throw in time-sensitive offers

I’ve talked about the importance of incorporating urgency into your headlines.

But urgency can be applied to a lot of different situations.

It’s a marketer’s best friend.

It can be especially potent for holiday PPC ads.

Here’s why.

There is a handful of specific events throughout the year that are intrinsically time-sensitive.

Here are some examples, and this doesn’t even include New Year’s:

They each have a very distinct cut-off date, and once that date has passed, it’s over, baby.

Shoppers will have to wait until next year to cash in on sales and discounts.

Leverage these different events by creating time-sensitive offers that expire once a certain date has passed.

Here’s a great example of a Facebook ad from just before Thanksgiving:

Keep in mind that the majority of holiday shoppers are in the “buy now” mindset.

So it’s not so much about nurturing leads and gradually moving them through the sales funnel.

It’s more about going for the throat and compelling shoppers to take action right away and buy.

I’ve found creating urgency through this tactic is one of the best ways to accomplish this.

Adjust your budget

Considering the fact that roughly a fifth of all retail sales come during the holiday season, it’s reasonable to expect an increase in searches for your product.

You’ll need to account for this increase by adjusting your budget accordingly.

If you currently have a $100-a-day budget, you may want to raise it by to $150 or even $200 to ensure you’re able to capitalize on increased searches.

You don’t want to miss out on opportunities simply because your budget ran out.

And there are two particular dates when you’ll want to be especially loose with your budget:

Thanksgiving/Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

Just look at how online conversions surged for one company on these days:

These actually dwarfed the week leading up to Christmas and the day after.

While this won’t necessarily be the trend for everyone, be prepared to spend considerably more on Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

Again, I recommend looking at the data from past years to gain insights on this and for direction on setting your budget.

Conclusion

I love PPC advertising for the simple fact that it can lead to massive sales in a short period of time.

Unlike other digital strategies—like content marketing, social media and SEO (which I love) that typically take a long time to pay off—PPC can get almost instant results as long as you know what you’re doing.

PPC can be lucrative any time of the year, but the holiday season is where the money is really at.

But in order to take advantage, you’ll need to tweak your PPC strategy accordingly.

The things I mentioned here should enable you to:

  • create highly effective ads your demographic will respond to,
  • come up with enticing offers and
  • send shoppers chomping at the bit to buy to your site.

And once you get the hang of it, simply rinse and repeat for the next holiday season.

Can you think of any other adjustments that can rev up your PPC campaign during the holidays?



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Questions About Difficult Frugality, Paper Bags, Small Debts, Friendships and More!

What’s inside? Here are the questions answered in today’s reader mailbag, boiled down to summaries of five or fewer words. Click on the number to jump straight down to the question.
1. Some frugality not worth it?
2. Feeling unmotivated after financial setback
3. Salty, savory, and inexpensive?
4. Destroying documents without paper shredder
5. Edward Jones question
6. Saving old paper bags
7. Pay off small debts first?
8. Really disorganized with mail
9. Unopened stuff from abandoned hobby
10. Building friendships from meetups
11. When to start buying freemium?
12. Emergency fund and TV crime

There are few things better than a cool summer rain after a really warm day, when you’re riding home furiously on a bicycle with your children right beside you, all of you pedaling madly to beat that rain home and not quite making it, your shirt almost drenched with the first several dozen cold droplets of rain.

Standing together in the garage, panting due to the bike sprint, wet, just a bit chilled from the cool rain, laughing together – that’s what it’s all about.

On with the questions.

Q1: Some frugality not worth it?

It’s pretty clear from your writings and my own experiences that some frugal things are worth it and some things are not worth it in terms of time invested and money returned. Coupon clipping really isn’t worth it unless a very good coupon falls into your lap, but replacing regular bulbs with LEDs when they burn out is worth it.

It’s one of those things that I feel in my gut but I have almost no way of explaining to others. It’s like some things just make sense to me and others do not. But when I try to explain it I sound crazy.
– Megan

I think of such tasks as being like an hourly wage, except that it’s all staying in my pocket and there aren’t any taxes or anything like that. If I can do something that saves me more than about $10 for an hour of my effort, I’ll probably do it. If it’s way more than that, then it quickly becomes a priority. If it’s less than that, I’ll probably do it if I enjoy the task.

I like to get precise with those calculations sometimes, but usually I just trust my sense of what those numbers are like. I don’t stop every time a situation comes up and start running the numbers. I just rely on a rough sense of the numbers in my head to make my judgment call, and then I go with it. Sometimes, I’ll run the numbers later (like for an article for The Simple Dollar).

So, for example, let’s look at my favorite homemade laundry soap recipe. I just mix together equal amounts of soap flakes, borax, and washing soda into a sealed container and toss a spoon in there, as I use a tablespoon of this mixture in each load. It takes maybe two or three minutes. My sense is that this is worth it, because I know I’m saving about twenty cents per laundry load with this mix as compared to Tide and even about eight cents per laundry load as compared to a store brand soap. Given that I can make about 30 loads of soap in about three minutes (and I buy the ingredients in enough bulk that I don’t have to buy them very often), that’s a pretty good deal.

Other things aren’t a good deal. Washing a resealable plastic bag, for example, takes a couple of minutes in order to get it actually clean and then get it set to dry. A resealable plastic bag costs about ten cents, meaning I’d save about $3 an hour on that task. That’s well under any sort of minimum wage. I’m far better off writing an article with that time or doing something personally meaningful.

I could really go off on a long tangent with this… which means that it’ll probably be a post in the near future.

Q2: Feeling unmotivated after financial setback

So my wife and I have reached debt freedom and are saving for a house down payment. We had about $55,000 saved for the down payment and were just about to start shopping around when her mother fell ill. We decided to have her mother move in with us and we helped with medical bills and expenses for the last year of our life, depleting almost all of our savings.

We now have about $5,500 in savings and we have almost no motivation to save any more. Part of it is that my wife is still kind of reeling from dealing with her mother, I think. We’ve decided to travel some this summer and maybe that will reenergize us.

What do you do when life hands you a screwball and knocks out your motivation to keep making financial progress?
– Chris

I think you’ve already got your recipe for success.

The biggest thing you need to do right now is heal some wounds. It sounds like the death of your mother-in-law is still fairly fresh, particularly with your wife, and that the last year of your mother-in-law’s life was really difficult. Give it some time to heal.

I think some summer travel together will be good for both of you. Spend some time making sure that you’re both fixed and that your marriage is strong and you’ll find that the ground will become fertile again for setting goals and saving. Until then, you do have a nice emergency fund in place for other unexpected events.

Not everything in life is about achieving big financial goals, and this is definitely one of those stages. Good luck.

Q3: Salty, savory, and inexpensive?

Trying to find some salty/savory snacks that are inexpensive and not completely unhealthy. Prefer stuff that’s easy to prep.
– Olin

My first reaction was popcorn. Just pop some popcorn, melt some butter in the microwave, mix some salt into the butter, and drizzle it over the popped popcorn. That’s an amazing salty/savory snack.

Homemade potato chips are reasonably healthy. You can make baked ones by simply slicing a potato thinly (here’s a good how-to that’s easy for the slicing part, or you can use a food processor if you have on) and coating it with oil and some seasonings and then bake it in the oven until they’re crispy. They’ll be thick baked-style chips, but wonderfully tasty. You can season them with just about anything you’d like – salt, spices, and so on.

I’m a huge fan of salted nuts, but they can be kind of expensive. You can usually find unsalted nuts in bulk and add seasonings yourself pretty easy – just get a tiny bit of oil spread out on a plate and saturated with salt, then roll the nuts around in it.

Those are my best ideas for cheap savory snacks. The easiest and most cost effective is probably the popcorn.

Q4: Destroying documents without paper shredder

What’s the best way to destroy documents with personal info on them without buying a paper shredder?
– Brian

Get a five gallon bucket. Fill it up about halfway or so with water, then add just a little bit of dish soap and a little tiny bit of bleach (like a teaspoon). Throw a bunch of documents in there, tearing them up as you go, and stir it with a stick. Let it sit overnight. You’ll have a giant chunk of paper left over that’s stuck together in a giant brick. Let that brick dry out thoroughly (meaning dump out any excess water), and then burn the whole chunk the next time you have a campfire – that paper cylinder (since it will take on the shape of the bucket) will burn really really well if you’ve allowed it to dry. You can also cut the giant chunk down into smaller chunks for smaller firestarters. That’s my preferred method for getting rid of tons of documents at once.

Obviously, you can just skip the middle step and just take a bunch of documents straight to a campfire or bonfire. Use the documents to get the fire going and keep throwing documents in there to incinerate them. I prefer the other method if I don’t have a campfire at the ready because it damages the documents to unusability pretty quickly and gives you a firestarter that’s much easier to deal with.

Another option is to see if your city has a city shredding day. Many cities and towns offer a day where they bring in a giant shredder and allow people to dump their documents in there. This is easily the best method if it’s available to you, but you have to wait around for it.

Q5: Edward Jones question

I am really uncomfortable with making investment decisions without an advisor. What are your thoughts on Edward Jones? There is an Edward Jones office near my workplace.
– Stephen

I have exactly one major problem with Edward Jones – the fees. The fees are pretty high. They seem to do a great job with customer service and making people feel comfortable, but you pay for that with the fees that they charge. That’s really the Edward Jones model – very good customer service with a friendly environment and face and a lot of solid investment choices, but the fees are how you pay for it.

Here’s the thing, though: any time you start entrusting someone to manage your finances for you, it’s going to be expensive. Maybe not as expensive as Edward Jones, but the services anywhere will be pricy. That’s simply the nature of the business.

Your best “bang for the buck” is likely through an independent certified financial planner who is fee-based and not commission-based in your area. You’ll have to do some homework to find that person, but they’re probably going to wind up being your best option overall.

Q6: Saving old paper bags

Whenever I go to the grocery I request paper bags. I take them home and fold them up and save them and put them under the sink. But I get more paper bags than I use and my undersink cabinet is full of bags. What can I do with them? Seems huge waste to throw them out.
– Max

You’ve kind of summarized why I’ve moved to using reusable cloth bags almost exclusively when grocery shopping. We keep a bag that’s full of folded cloth bags by the front door so that it’s easy to grab for shopping trips and then we never have any paper (or plastic) bags to store.

We used to do just like you did and accumulated tons of paper bags under the sink, but we never really found any good consistent uses for them. We often ended up using them for starting campfires or wrapping up packages because we couldn’t really figure out any other good use for them.

If I were you, I’d collect some cloth bags, then take most of those paper bags to your local paper recycler.

Q7: Pay off small debts first?

Is it better to pay off some tiny debts first to get rid of some bills before tackling my big high interest credit card? I have two small student loans, both under $1,000 that have a 5.9% and a 5.5% interest rate. I also have a credit card with a $6,500 balance with a 19.9% interest rate. I feel like if I get rid of my student loans first I can pay down the bigger bill faster but I can’t make the numbers work out.
– Jim

In terms of pure dollars and cents, the best approach is always to make minimum payments on all of your debts, then the biggest possible extra payment on your highest interest debt. This will, over the long run, minimize your total interest paid.

Think of it this way: if you make an extra payment to pay off those low interest debts early, that’s a payment you’re not making toward a higher interest debt. Or, to take it from another angle, you’d rather have a higher balance on a lower interest debt than a higher balance on a high interest debt.

That doesn’t mean that it doesn’t make sense to pay off those small debts. The big advantage that offers is that your overall minimum monthly payments is going to likely be lower than before once those debts are out of the way. That makes life easier if you face something like a job loss or a career change or some similar challenge. Plus, the actual dollars and cents saved by going for the high interest debt first is pretty small – on the order of $20-50, depending on your exact payment plans, by my back of the envelope math.

If you feel better paying off the small debts first, by all means, pay off the small debts first. At worst, you’ll cost yourself a little bit of money, and that small amount is little compared to peace of mind.

Q8: Really disorganized with mail

Most days I get the mail, see if there’s anything interesting in there as I walk to my apartment, and toss it in a basket. This builds up after a while until it’s a huge mess and there’s usually a late bill or two in there. I try to be more organized with it and handle things sooner but I’m just disorganized and I have tried to be better about it and it doesn’t work. What is the simplest way to keep this from happening?
– Geoff

One great approach I’ve seen is that a friend of mine has an “important mail” basket and a “not important mail” basket. On his way in, he sorts the mail into stuff that’s potentially important and urgent and stuff that isn’t. The important and urgent stuff goes into the “important mail” box and gets handled about once a week. Everything else goes into the “unimportant mail” box and gets handled maybe once a month.

It’s not a perfect system, but I think he has a similar philosophy to mail that you do, that much of it is really unimportant and not worthwhile.

My personal approach was to just move as much as possible to online banking and then try to minimize the amount of junk mail that I get by unsubscribing from stuff. I prefer to get less mail, not more.

Q9: Unopened stuff from abandoned hobby

For a long time I was really into collecting pocket knives. I used to buy them all the time and I went to the Oregon Knife Show every year and bought several. After a while though I began to get bored with the hobby and I have a bunch of knives that are completely unopened. I do carry a pocket knife all the time for use but I have like 50 knives in my closet and about 30 of them are still completely unopened and untouched.

So here’s the problem. I want to keep a few of them for actual use but I don’t have the collecting bug any more. But when I go through them I am finding it really tough to figure out what to keep. I mean I bought these knives because I genuinely found them cool and I still do. I just don’t have the fire to buy more any more.
– Archie

Your question really is “how do you pare down a collection that you still love but aren’t actively collecting any more?” I don’t think you’re asking how to sell those unused knives, but how to decide which ones to sell off when you do want to keep a few.

My approach in situations like this is to put all of the items in a box and mark that box with a date in the future, say, a year from now. If I so desire, at any point during the year, I can dig into that box and pull out anything that I want to use or see. In a year, when I notice the box and see the date has passed, I open it up and everything left in there gets sold. If I haven’t looked at it in a year, it must not be too important to me.

I’ve used this strategy to pare down a lot of collections over the years. When I open that box after a year and recognize that I’ve not touched any of this stuff in more than twelve months, it becomes a lot easier to just sell it because I truly realize this stuff isn’t a part of my life any more as proven by my own inaction.

Q10: Building friendships from meetups

Whenever I go to meet ups or community events, I meet interesting people but then it’s hard to continue that relationship. They will often talk about other events right in front of me and not invite me and I feel unwelcome and don’t want to go back. What can I do to become “part of the group”?
– Keith

It’s simple. If they’re discussing a different public event, simply ask, “Mind if I tag along?” Almost always, they’ll say “Sure!” You don’t want to do this when it’s a private event in someone’s home, as there may be extenuating circumstances, but if the event is a public one in a public place, people with shared interests are almost always welcome.

Quite often, people at such events simply assume that everyone there who is interested will probably go to the next public event of the group and that they all know about it. For you, that’s obviously not necessarily true, so simply ask.

If you find that you get a hard “no,” then you can assume the group is unfriendly, but if you don’t even pipe up to ask to tag along, it’s not really the fault of the group.

Q11: When to start buying freemium?

When do you decide it’s time to start paying for a product that offers a “pro” account when you have a free one? Do you just keep using it until you hit upon limitations that a “pro” account can solve? I use a lot of free stuff like Dropbox and Evernote every day so I am trying to figure out whether I should upgrade some of them.
– Joe

Great question.

Obviously, if you’re using a service enough that you’re hitting on the upper limits of what you can do with it using the free account, jumping to the paid version of the service is a smart idea. If you’ve reached that point, it has become a valuable resource in your life and anything that you consistently use is worth keeping around.

On the other hand, you obviously shouldn’t pay for a product you’re not using. That’s nonsensical.

The sticky place is that middle ground, where you do consistently use and rely on a tool but you’re well within the “free” offering with that service.

For me, at least, I find that if I’m using a tool daily and I have found it so useful that I would be frustrated without it, then I’m willing to pay the “upgrade” price, even if I still have some room to grow within the “free” offering. I want that tool to continue, and good tools only continue to stay around if they make money.

However, I stick with the “free” version until that point. I just keep using that free version until the tool either becomes a daily-use-over-a-long-period kind of thing or it fades from use.

Q12: Emergency fund and TV crime

Was watching a detective show on TV the other day and couldn’t help but think of your advice! A guy got in trouble with a loan shark that loaned him $5000 in a pinch and the loan shark basically destroyed his life and took his daughter away. Couldn’t help but think that the guy would have been fine if he had an emergency fund like you suggest!
– Marie

If you actually watch a lot of television dramas, you’ll find that many of the problems on there simply do not happen if people simply had emergency funds that they built up by spending less than they earned when times were good.

That show might have been obvious, but think about that whenever you watch a television drama. Almost all of them show off situations that could have been solved with a little bit of cash in a pinch. Quite often, all of the crime and bad events were the result of a domino effect from some little thing that went wrong that could have been fixed if someone had some cash in the bank.

The moral of the story is this: if you don’t want to wind up like a CSI victim, have an emergency fund! If that’s not a motivator, I don’t know what is!

Got any questions? The best way to ask is to follow me on Facebook and ask questions directly there. I’ll attempt to answer them in a future mailbag (which, by way of full disclosure, may also get re-posted on other websites that pick up my blog). However, I do receive many, many questions per week, so I may not necessarily be able to answer yours.

The post Questions About Difficult Frugality, Paper Bags, Small Debts, Friendships and More! appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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Time to review your financial protection

Time to review your financial protection

It is often said that insurance provides financial peace of mind – until you make a claim and your insurer starts to cut up rough.

A cynical comment maybe, but that was certainly the case with payment protection insurance (PPI) in the 1990s and early 2000s when cover was missold by the bucket-load – leading to claims being routinely rejected. The banks were the guiltiest parties and they are still clearing up the mess with compensation payments totalling billions of pounds.

Once upon a time it was also the same with financial protection insurance, cover that pays out when serious illness strikes. Insurers would trawl through claimants’ medical records to fi nd reasons why they should not meet a claim. If evidence of medical non-disclosure was found (medical details not revealed when a policy was bought), the claim was rejected – however trivial the nondisclosure. But this is no longer the case, most of the time.

The latest statistics from the Association of British Insurers (ABI) confirm this. Last year, £13 million a day was paid out by insurers on a variety of types of financial protection insurance. They include life cover (paying out on death), critical illness (paying out a lump sum following a serious illness such as a stroke or heart attack) and income replacement (paying a regular income if someone is unable to work because of long-term illness).

In total, 97% of all claims were met by insurers, although the figures for both critical illness (92%) and income replacement (85%) were not so high.

Reasons to be cheerful, then? Yes, and no.

Yes, because financial protection insurance sold today is usually superior to policies sold 10 years ago. Cover (especially critical illness) is more all-encompassing than it used to be and policy innovations mean many illnesses, such as early stage bladder cancer or early stage breast cancer, are now covered, even though they may only trigger a partial payment of the sum assured.

No, because we now have a large batch of protection policies (primarily critical illness but also income protection) that were sold a long time ago and which are no longer fi t for purpose. Yet nobody, especially the insurance companies, is alerting the holders of these policies that the cover they have may not come to their financial rescue in their hour of need.

I asked Alan Lakey of Highclere Financial Services, one of the UK’s most respected protection insurance advisers, to do a little test for me. He has painstakingly developed a database of critical illness policies that compares and contrasts cover provided by individual insurers. It encompasses policies new and old.

He compared an HSBC critical illness policy sold 10 years ago to an Aviva policy that is sold today. His database showed that the Aviva policy was superior in 88 different ways – because of better claims wording (resulting in a higher statistical likelihood of paying out), the provision of partial payments for certain conditions (where HSBC offers none) and enhanced payments for specific conditions. HSBC’s policy did not offer one single area of advantage.

Lose a leg in a car accident and the HSBC policy would not pay out; Aviva’s cover would. Only the loss of two legs would trigger a payout with HSBC’s policy. I asked Mr Lakey to do this exercise because of a case concerning an HSBC customer whose claim had been refused because his bladder cancer was not considered sufficiently advanced.

Although the customer eventually got financial justice by taking his case to the free Financial Ombudsman Service (a referee in disputes where an impasse has been reached), he was a victim of the fact that his policy was dated. If he had bought cover more recently – but not from HSBC – he would probably have received an immediate partial payment under his policy (typically £25,000) without question or query.

I think it is high time the insurance industry did something about addressing this issue. Surely, it cannot be beyond them to offer long-standing customers the opportunity to upgrade their cover to that offered to new customers. I am sure these customers would be happy paying a bit more in premiums for the privilege.

In the meantime, I urge anyone with long-standing critical illness or income replacement insurance to check whether they would get superior cover elsewhere. Age and health may make the purchase of alternative cover too expensive, but it is worth a try. A financial adviser specialising in protection insurance can do the dirty work for you – but they will charge a fee: see Financial advice: is it worth it?.

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True money stories from smart people: Cash is not a dirty word

True money stories from smart people: Cash is not a dirty word

How much cash have you got in your wallet right now? Twenty quid? A fiver? A button and a 20p piece?

If you’re under 35, you’re probably wondering what a ‘wallet’ is and, for that matter, what cash is.

 Because cash is increasingly a dirty word in our society. And not only that, but there are determined forces out to get it. We may need to set up a ‘Save Our Cash’ Facebook support group.

Not only are the ‘yoof’ sneering at cash, but weighty economists are trying to stamp it out.

Cash is too helpful to criminals, according to American economist Kenneth Rogoff, who’s been dubbed the ‘number one enemy of cash’. He says that law-abiding citizens rarely have need for $100 bills, yet there are 34 of them in circulation for every woman, man, and child in the US. Logically, he points out, they’re in the hands – or briefcases – of criminals, and that ain’t right.

Of course, cash is also very good for people who are ‘careful’ with money. They can count it more slowly and watch every penny they’re spending, like my uncle, who was so tight he only opened his wallet for two reasons: either to put money in or to let the guard off duty (that is, he was so stingy and never opened his wallet, so if he could he would have had an alarm or even a tiny guard in it).

He had a virgin credit card – not one of Richard Branson’s – it was just never used.

And we all know that every bank note is contaminated with cocaine within weeks of being issued – it doesn’t matter which country you’re in. It’s slightly different with the new robust fivers. Their design actually makes it easier for party-goers as they can be used to buy, chop and snort your cocaine all in one.

Buskers love cash – how can we drop a coin in their hat digitally? I’m thinking particularly of the pipers on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile who walk up and down while playing, mainly so that no one can hit them.

And for the churchgoers among us, taking a collection would be very tricky with credit cards and a reader.

Also, although it’s true that criminals love cash because it’s anonymous, many law-abiding people like it for the same reason. Its anonymity gives us back a bit of power. Once you have taken the folding stuff out of the ATM, you can do what you like with it and no one can use that information against you. No one, meaning ‘they’… the invisible, all-seeing eye that is watching and recording every transaction and every move we make. That ‘big data’ that has already been used by dodgy analytics companies to influence general elections and referendums.

Any time we use a credit card, Oyster card, phone or other mobile device, our action is tracked and the information crunched, analysed and used against us – sorry, for us – by offering us things that ‘they’ assume we will be willing to pay for… or vote for.

This is why I switch off ‘location services’ on my phone if I’m going somewhere I’d like to keep quiet… like Bognor Regis; why I wouldn’t dream of using the ‘health’ app on my phone – frankly, I don’t have the energy to switch it on; and why I won’t have one of those listening devices in my home to tell me what the weather’s like in Arkansas (and then tell ‘them’ that I wanted to know). I won’t make it easy for them. If they want my details, they’ll have to pay me for them with really big wads of cash – proper folding stuff, not just numbers on a screen.

MoneyMagpie reader Nick Abel goes a step further. He says: “I’m single with no children or pets, but every now and then I throw in a packet of Pampers or a tin of dog food in my supermarket shop just to throw the data out. I don’t post on social media either because that’s too much information to give them.”

So oddly enough, in being rather ‘backward’ at adopting a cashless existence, Brits could be seen as prescient and ahead of the curve. A report by banking group ING last month found that out of 15 countries, the British are the least likely to want to go completely cashless day to day. In fact, we love our cash so much that since the Brexit vote many want us to go back to shillings and threepenny bits. Maybe we’d like to bring back rickets too?

So now that the old £5 note has been replaced by the bionic one and we welcome in a new £1 coin, let’s hear it for cash and stick it in the eye of those who just want our data. Cash is king, long may it live!

Jasmine Birtles is a financial journalist and founder of MoneyMagpie.com. Email her at columnists@moneywise.co.uk.

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Sleep Studies Paid Me $12K to Chill in My PJs for 11 Days

You mean you go to sleep every night and don’t get paid for it? Your luck may be about to change.

Turns out several million people in the United States suffer through sleepless nights, which many researchers agree greatly affects overall health. Numerous hospitals dedicate entire divisions to studying sleep — and they’re willing to pay you several thousand dollars just to watch you nap.

Most studies want healthy adults with consistent sleep patterns. I checked both boxes, and earned $12,000 participating in two studies in the same hospital. Here’s what I learned in the process, and how you, too, can get paid to sleep.

How to Qualify to Make Money While You Sleep

Some cities have a higher concentration of facilities that pay sleep-study participants, but it’s easy to find facilities in your area. I joined two studies in Boston at Brigham and Women’s Hospital.

When you find a sleep center near you, you’ll usually see multiple studies running simultaneously. You won’t qualify for all of them, but you may qualify for more than you think.

Read the specifics of each study carefully so you only apply to studies you qualify for. You’ll often need to take a survey, sharing your personal information and confirming you understand the study’s goals and compensation. For example, the questionnaires I filled out included:

  • An age window: Most studies look for volunteers in a specific age range.
  • Length of in-hospital time: Whether it’s a few hours or several nights, make sure you know what you’re signing up for.
  • Payment: You’ll want to make sure a study is worth your time and effort before joining.
  • Specific lifestyle or medical requirements for study: Some studies look for volunteers with specific needs or qualifications, such as people with sleep apnea or those who work shifts outside the traditional nine-to-five.
  • Comfort with the study methods: Recruiters want to make sure you’re up for the challenge, so while the questionnaire won’t tell you everything about the study for fear you’ll tailor your answers based on what you think they want to hear, they want you to know what they’re aiming to observe.

Don’t fudge your answers. Being honest is the only way to successfully get through this process, not to mention contribute to accurate scientific data!

One cool feature: You can start this part of the process remotely. I stayed in Florida while applying for studies in Boston, and I was able to get pretty far through the process before having to visit in person.

So if you’re planning a trip and want to turn it into an earning opportunity, consider looking for a study before you leave home!

What Happens After You’re Accepted

You have just become the recruiter’s best friend! She’ll want to talk to you and see you all the time.

Next, you’ll go to the hospital for a series of briefings and tests. You’ll likely meet the doctor conducting the research, who will give you a thorough explanation of the study and its processes.

At this point, you’ll likely take two exams:

  • A psychological exam: The goal is to make sure you can handle isolation and a hospital environment in general
  • A physical exam: Like a standard physical, a nurse will weigh you, take a small blood sample, ask you to pee in a cup, etc.

You won’t know right then and there if your blood and urine earned an A+, but you’re well on your way to completing the process.

The best part? This is paid time. If you get cold feet and decide to quit at this point, you’ll still get paid for each part of the process you’ve completed so far.

Compensation varies, but most researchers want to dangle a carrot so you’ll keep going. Most of the time you can expect a $25-$100 payment for each step you complete.

Most facilities are really good about the payout breakdown, but if yours doesn’t explain it at the beginning, ask. This is also your opportunity to discuss when and how you’ll be paid, as well as how your payment will be taxed.

After your exams, you’ll meet up with your new BFF, the recruiter who you will call every day for the duration of the study. At this point, I actually stopped calling her my BFF and started calling her “my mother.” She gave me a special watch monitor my light and activity patterns, keeping an eye on what I was doing.

You’ll also keep a physical sleep log documenting your progress as you wake up and go to bed at the same time every day, and you’ll call your new “mom” as you’re doing this to make sure what you say you’re doing is true.

That said, Mom has faith in you. She wants you to succeed, and if you blow curfew a few nights, you probably won’t be kicked out of the study.

What to Expect when you’re Ex… Sleeping

No, it’s not all comfy pillows and sweet dreams; researchers pay participants because these studies have a few downsides.

In my experience, they sound worse than they actually are. Here’s what you should be ready for:

Isolation

You will likely be completely cut off from the outside world during the study’s observation period.

You usually won’t have any time cues, meaning no clock, no computer and no phone. You also won’t have any windows to observe light patterns. While you’re in the study, the doctor determines night and day, which can be a bit unsettling.

I’ve taken part in studies as short as four days (for which I earned $4,000) and have seen others as long as 31 days (typically paying $10,000). Start small and work your way up once you’ve tried it once or twice.

Unusual Positions or Challenges

You may have to maintain a “constant posture” for part of the study.

In some cases you may have to sit in the same position for six hours, or you may be kept awake at a 45-degree angle in low light for two days. It depends on the study, but confirm you’ll be able to manage it before you sign up.

And no, for those of you wondering, I’m not kidding about the “constant” part — you don’t get to get up or change positions to use the restroom, so you might need to use a bedpan. This was the most difficult part of the studies I did!

Needles and Other Medical Devices

During at least part of the study you may wear an IV, a rectal thermometer and electrodes attached to your head.

Did you just say rectal thermometer?! Why yes, I did. There’s a reason they pay the big bucks.

The technicians and researchers make all of these procedures and measurements as easy as possible. The thermometer helps them make sure you’re maintaining a normal body temperature, and it’s not as big of a deal as it sounds.

The Rewards of Participating in Sleep Studies

No, it’s not all easy — but the rewards are great. I earned $4,000 for a four-day study and $8,000 for a seven-day study.

Plus, when you’re not giving blood or following instructions, you can do pretty much whatever you want outside of activities that would raise your heart rate.

If you want to relax, simply hang out in your comfiest clothes and listen to music, write letters, draw or paint. I never make time to create comics, but I completed three during one study, not to mention finishing several books that had been collecting dust on my shelves.

Or, put your time to work. Devise a business plan for a new venture, outline your new blog’s content calendar or even write letters to members of Congress. During one of my studies, a technician told me another participant worked on his architecture senior thesis during his time in the study!

Although you’re subject to frequent interruptions, if you can bounce back to what you were originally working on, it’s a great time to really hone in on any type of project. I suggest packing a bag with notebooks, art supplies, books and projects you’ve been meaning to work on, and seeing what you feel like.

You’ll enjoy a complete technology cleanse, you’ll interact with interesting technicians and researchers, you’re contributing to science, and best of all, you’ll get a big fat check. Not bad for a few nights’ work!

Jillian Shea loves obscure means of money and media. Read her blog at http://ift.tt/1fL5mLm

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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Buy These 20 Things at the Dollar Store (but Avoid These at All Costs)

I’ve always been a dollar-store shopper, but I never bought food there.

Then our local dollar store started carrying the exact same brand of whole wheat bread I normally buy for $2.49. It might be two days closer to the expiration date, but not past it. So now I save $1.49 on every loaf of bread.

But you have to be careful. I once bought a screwdriver at a dollar store and it fell to pieces the first time I used it.

So what should you buy at dollar stores, and what should you avoid?

I looked at what the experts say in interviews with MoneyTalksNews and Today. Based on their advice and my own experience, here are 20 things to buy at dollar stores and 10 things to avoid.

Buy These Dollar Store Items

Why pay more when you don’t have to?

1. Greeting Cards

Everyone seems to agree on this one. Why pay several dollars for a card when you can get it for a buck?

2. Socks

Socks in dollar stores are often of decent quality, and the kids’ socks sometimes come two pairs to a package, making them much cheaper than most other stores.

The experts say to look for socks made with acrylic or spandex for comfort.

3. Vases

You can include decorative bowls, too. The dollar-store versions are about the same as the cheapest vases in other stores, which will typically run you $3 or more.

I’ve found decent vases made of glass and plastic in dollar stores.

4. Gift Bags and Wrapping Paper

Gift bags cost more everyplace else, and they’re going to be thrown away anyhow. I wouldn’t buy them anywhere else.

Wrapping paper is usually a good deal too, but the rolls are short.

5. Party Supplies

Once again, we’re talking about disposable items. Why pay twice as much for streamers and plastic tablecloths, or five times as much for Mylar balloons?

A trip to the dollar store can easily save you $20 if you’re planning a party.

6. Grooming Items

Hair ties and bobby pins eventually get lost, so why pay more for them?

Some name-brand shampoos show up in dollar stores too, for half of what they normally sell for.

But if you buy combs, avoid the flimsy ones in packages of 10 or more — I bent one the first time I used it.

7. Some Food

I don’t trust generic imported food yet, but now I’ll buy well-known brands I’ve seen elsewhere, and that bread saves me some serious cash.

Still, make careful comparisons; many canned foods actually cost less at regular grocery stores.

8. Picture Frames

My wife and I have pictures on our walls in wooden frames we bought at a dollar store. The same frames cost $5 or more in any other store where we’ve seen them.

Just check to be sure the bracket or hook for hanging is securely attached.

9. Storage Containers

You’ll find food storage containers on the “don’t buy” list below, but for storing cleaning supplies, hardware items and many other things, I use plastic tubs and containers from the dollar store.

They cost at least twice as much in most other stores.

10. Some Kitchenware

Yeah, dollar store silverware is flimsy, but still, how would I break a fork or spoon?

Drinking glasses are a good deal too.

What Else Should You Buy at the Dollar Store?

Considering only things that save me at least 50% and have worked just fine, here are some other things I buy at the dollar store:

  1. Rope and twine, for uses that don’t require high-quality tying
  2. Kids’ coloring books, but not the low-quality crayons
  3. Bags of balloons, good for water balloons and party decorations
  4. Bandanas, for various uses
  5. Candles, for emergencies
  6. Dish towels, in two-packs. They wear out quickly, but they’re still worth it
  7. Plungers: Throw them away when they break; you get seven for the price of one.
  8. Cleaning supplies: Some are OK, and they’re much cheaper.
  9. Sponges, for cleaning other than dishes
  10. Duct tape: It’s low-quality but perfect for some uses.

Don’t Buy These Dollar Store Items

Here’s when it’s not worth the savings.

1. Toys

With some exceptions, most dollar store toys are low-quality and will break quickly, if they work at all.

Some experts also say that parts and paints used for dollar store toys might not meet standards for safety.

2. Batteries

The experts say the battery life is so short that you’re better off getting batteries elsewhere.

They’re mostly right, but I’ll buy batteries at a dollar store for uses where I don’t need much power, like remote controls. I figure they last half as long but cost a fourth as much, so it still makes sense.

3. Medications and Vitamins

These show up on many “don’t buy” lists for dollars stores. I wouldn’t trust any supplements or drugs that are made for this market.

One exception is aspirin from a known brand, but often the containers are so small that you might be paying more per pill than you would at the drug store.

4. Paper Products

It is tempting to pick up that four-roll package of toilet paper or those paper towels for a dollar, but look again.

Usually the rolls are much smaller than normal, and the experts point out that the quality is about as low as it can be.

5. Plastic and Aluminum Wraps

These are usually low-quality, and again, they’re made to sell cheap by making the rolls very short.

6. School Supplies

The low quality of pens, paper, binders and such is one reason to avoid getting school supplies at a dollar store.

The other reason is that if you wait for back-to-school sales, you can save a lot more money at Walmart, Target and other stores.

7. Pet Food

Experts warn about the lack of standards with dollar-store pet food.

Then there is the size issue. Those small packages may cost more per ounce than the bigger bags you buy elsewhere.

8. Power Cords

Extension cords and power strips found in dollar stores are low quality and are sometimes dangerous, according to the experts.

9. Tools

Most tools found in dollar stores are barely functional, in my experience.

10. Food Containers

Low quality is a problem with these food containers, but safety is also an issue, according to a recent report on the hazardous chemicals in dollar store items.

I’m not too worried about the chemicals in the dollar-store tubs that organize my stuff in the garage, but I stay away from putting food in dollar-store plastic.

One last bit of advice: Be sure you’re in a dollar store.

Dollar Tree keeps everything at a dollar, but other stores that use “dollar” in their names, like Dollar General, may have higher-priced items.

Steve Gillman is the author of “101 Weird Ways to Make Money” and creator of EveryWayToMakeMoney.com. He’s been a repo-man, walking stick carver, search engine evaluator, house flipper, tram driver, process server, mock juror, and roulette croupier, but of more than 100 ways he has made money, writing is his favorite (so far).

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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We Invested in a Duplex. Here’s What We’ve Learned So Far

If you buy a duplex and live in one side, you have a home and rent coming in from the other side to help pay it.

Investment real estate also offers tax advantages. And what could be easier than managing a rental next door?

You’ve probably heard the arguments for buying a duplex instead of a single-family home. But is it really a good idea for you?

Maybe.

Recently, after four years of Florida’s heat and humidity, my wife and I moved back to Colorado to buy a duplex in the small town of Florence.

We’ve only lived here for a short while, so I can’t offer a comprehensive guide to buying a duplex as a home. But a lot can happen in a couple months, so maybe you can learn a few lessons from our experience.

Maybe even enough to decide if you’re ready for this lifestyle/investment…

Buying at a Distance

My wife was busy, so I flew out to Colorado alone for four days to look for our new home and investment.

Once I was back in Florida, we tried to buy a multiunit property — my favorite of the seven properties I’d seen. We discovered a few problems and the deal fell through, so we made an offer on a duplex I’d been in for just 10 minutes.

Buying a property you’ve only been in for a few minutes isn’t as risky as it sounds, as long as you have an inspection contingency in your contract.

If the inspector had found any major problems, we could’ve backed out. Both units were occupied, as well, so we also could have backed out after reviewing the leases, if the rent was less than stated in the listing information.

Real estate is selling quickly in Colorado, and prices are rising, but we didn’t have to buy something. So we offered $119,000, about $8,000 less than the asking price.

The seller said yes.

Meanwhile, my wife was asking me questions I couldn’t answer, like whether the bedrooms were carpeted, what color the walls were, and where the washer and dryer were located.

Fortunately, the inspector answered some of those questions.

More importantly, he happened to have structural engineering experience. The duplex was built in 1900, but he assured us the cracks in the walls (most of which I didn’t recall) were nothing serious.

Lessons:

  1. Don’t get too attached to a property.
  2. Have alternatives in mind.
  3. Try offering less than the asking price.
  4. Take your time looking at a property if you’re interested in it.
  5. Hire an inspector with building or engineering experience.

Negotiating the Deal

The duplex had no major functional problems.

After we got the inspection report, we asked for some minor repairs, and the seller agreed. He also assured us one unit would be empty by the time we moved.

Our contract allowed us to cancel the deal if we didn’t find acceptable insurance. And by acceptable, it meant almost anything — from the price to even what could be covered or excluded (such as earthquakes or floods).

The language of the contract said we could cancel the contract “based on any unsatisfactory provision of the Property Insurance, in Buyer’s sole subjective discretion.” Of course, there’s a deadline, as with all contingencies.

The insurance agent asked us questions, which we passed on to our real estate agent, who passed them on to the selling agent, who passed them on to the seller, who answered his agent, who then contacted our agent, who then contacted us, and we contacted our insurance agent, who then had another question.

The process was tedious and slow. And insurance was expensive, which we discovered the day after our insurance contingency deadline.

Fortunately, after questioning our insurance agent, we found we could substantially lower the cost by raising the deductible, paying a year in advance and getting our car insurance through the same company.

The listing information said the units were rented for $650 per month, but I suddenly recalled the tenant on one side telling me she paid $600.

We got copies of the leases emailed to us, and the rent was $650, but was discounted $50 if she kept the place looking good for showings while it was for sale.

Lessons:

  1. Inspections are an opportunity to renegotiate or back out of a deal.
  2. Watch deadlines in the contract.
  3. Ask your insurance agent how you can lower your annual premium.
  4. Ask tenants questions when you see a place.
  5. Always ask for rental agreement copies and other contracts

Closing the Deal

As soon as we were past our contract deadlines, we listed our home in Florida for sale.

It sold the next day for more than the asking price — crazy times are back in Florida! We closed the sale 16 days later, a few days after closing on the duplex.

Meanwhile, we discovered the tenant in the unit we planned to occupy was still there.

We pondered the possibility of being homeless after closing in Florida, and decided we needed more information. Emails and phone calls went through the typical maze of real estate agents and we couldn’t get a clear picture of the situation.

My wife found the solution.

She located the seller’s personal phone number on a lease, and we called him directly. The tenant in “our” unit was more or less moved out and would vacate four days before we arrived.

Real estate agents don’t like being bypassed, and some sellers would rather not talk to the buyers at all, but in this case it was one of our best decisions. The seller was very helpful — he even came over after we settled in to answer any questions we had.

We’d mentioned we could close earlier than planned, but we hadn’t heard from the title company. At some point I called them and they said, “Oh yes, we moved up the closing and the papers will be there in a couple days.”

Thanks for telling us — apparently it wasn’t important for us to know when the closing was! We quickly wired the money so it would be there in time. I have never met a title company I like.

Lessons:

  1. It can help to talk to the seller directly if possible.
  2. Follow up on everything — you may not be notified of important changes.

How to Make Money With Your Home

We closed early in the month.

Since rent is paid in advance, we were credited at closing with the rent already collected. If you’re tight on money for closing costs, this can help a lot. Essentially, we were making money before we even moved in.

That was the good news.

Five days after we arrived at our new home (with everything we owned and two cats in our minivan), the tenants in the other side announced they were leaving in a week — and one of their three dogs had torn a hole in the carpet.

Fortunately, the previous owner had collected an extra $500 deposit for pet damages.

It was bad news and good news. I wasn’t thrilled to have to prepare the other side for new tenants while still settling in and painting our side. On the other hand, we’d probably find better tenants and could start fresh with our own rules.

We decided to use a placement service to find a renter.

For 75% of the first month’s rent, they took photos, advertised in several places, took applications, did credit and background checks, and made a recommendation.

So we had that unexpected expense, a couple thousand dollars in repairs, painting and other preparation, and some vacant time shortly after moving in.

But now we have new tenants in place, and for $50 more per month than anticipated. We hope they’ll stay for years.

Lessons:

  1. Close the purchase early in the month to collect prepaid rent at closing.
  2. Expect rental-preparation expenses and loss of income from vacancies.
  3. Be sure to collect a larger or extra deposit if you allow pets.
  4. Have a management company find tenants if you’re uncertain how to proceed.

Financing a Duplex

We were fortunate enough to be able to pay cash for our duplex, but you can also finance them.

Bankrate.com explains there are some special advantages to financing a duplex when you live in it.

For example, unlike non-occupant investors, you can get a Federal Housing Administration or Veterans Administration loan.

And even though it’s your home, you can sometimes use the income from the other side to help you qualify for the loan.

But be sure the numbers still make sense once you add in those loan payments.

For example, if the units are similar in size, allocate half of each mortgage payment to the investment unit, along with half of the common expenses and all expenses specific to that side.

You should aim to have at least some positive cash flow (on that unit) after all of those costs.

Tax Advantages of Owning a Duplex

You may have to read up on the tax advantages of owning and living in a duplex.

But basically, anything you spend on the rental unit is an expense that reduces the income you report and the taxes you pay. This includes advertising, paint, flowers for the front yard — anything to help you keep the place rented.

Expenses for the entire property are generally split down the middle.

For example, half of the tax and insurance bills are rental expenses. But talk to an accountant if you have a unique property, like if one side is much larger than the other.

You also get other benefits to further lower your tax bill, such as claiming depreciation as an expense. And you can still qualify for the capital gains tax exclusion on half of the property when you sell, since you live in it.

Duplex Disadvantages

The disadvantages of owning a duplex are about what you’d guess.

Here’s a short list of the potential problems you could face:

  1. Tenants who don’t pay on time: Be ready to start evictions quickly.
  2. Pet damage to your property: We may limit the number of pets.
  3. Potential liability for accidents on the property: Get insurance.
  4. Expensive surprises like broken furnaces: Ours are 30 years old, fingers crossed.
  5. Lots of maintenance work: It won’t be all the time, but probably when you least expect it.

For me, the biggest drawback is the stress of constant decisions.

Do I fix the shower myself or pay five times as much for a professional?

Do I allow the renters to have a garden?

Do I ask for rent on time, even if it means the tenant won’t have money for her baby’s medicine? (That one actually came up on a previous rental I owned.)

These problems are not unique to duplexes. They come with any residential rental property.

Special Duplex Advantages

As an investment, rental real estate has clear advantages.

For example, rents usually go up over time, but your mortgage payment remains the same (assuming you got a fixed rate), so your income rises. But some advantages are specific to owner-occupied duplexes.

For example, a duplex provides an opportunity to invest less in your own home. Our duplex has two 1,100-square-foot units and we paid $119,000, while small houses on the same street cost about the same.

We ended up putting $3,000 into fixing the place up. Coupled with $1,000 in closing costs, we spent $123,000 — $61,500 for our home and $61,500 for a rental, much less than we would’ve paid for a single-family home for either purpose.

We don’t like being landlords, especially after weeks of work preparing the place. I don’t even like real estate. But where else can we get our expected 7% return?

And that’s not even the whole story.

If we’d bought a single-family home for ourselves (our backup plan for moving back to Colorado) we would’ve moved farther from the town center to find something cheaper. We still would’ve paid more than $90,000, instead of $61,500.

Now we get to invest the $30,000 we saved.

We paid cash, but the advantage is there if you borrow, too. By investing less in your own living space, you save thousands in interest over the years.

Another advantage of buying a duplex as a home is you live next door to your tenants, so you can keep track of what’s going on with your investment.

Being on-site, you can more easily deal with little problems before they become big ones.

And the rent check is only a few steps away.

Steve Gillman is the author of “101 Weird Ways to Make Money” and creator of EveryWayToMakeMoney.com. He’s been a repo-man, walking stick carver, search engine evaluator, house flipper, tram driver, process server, mock juror and roulette croupier, but of more than 100 ways he has made money, writing is his favorite (so far).

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, one of the largest personal finance websites. We help millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. In 2016, Inc. 500 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the No. 1 fastest-growing private media company in the U.S.



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