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الثلاثاء، 28 مايو 2019

Ten Simple Yet Life-Changing Personal Finance Strategies

In past years, I gave a series of personal finance talks for local organizations. As my kids got older, I stepped back from doing this, but I still keep my deck of slides fresh with content that lines up with everything I’ve learned about personal finances.

Most of my slides are just pictures of my family or of friends or of my home. They feature one, two, or three bolded words on them. I want people to listen to what I’m saying, not reading the words off of a slide and drowning me out. The only slide I use that has more than three words on it is an early slide that says “SPEND LESS THAN YOU EARN” on it, and the title slide that’s on the screen at the start.

One of my favorite segments in the talk is when I start talking about spending less, a segment that’s centered around “ten simple but life-changing personal finance strategies.” Again, these are all slides of something from my life with just a few big bolded words on them, usually along the bottom or top.

As I was updating my slides for a potential talk at a library in the near future, it occurred to me that those ten slides would make for a pretty strong article for The Simple Dollar. So, here they are – my ten simple but life changing personal finance strategies, along with the one or two or three bold words that appear on those slides.

DON’T SHOP

Simply minimize the amount of time you spend in places with cash registers or online shopping carts. That’s it. If you don’t have to be at such a place for a planned purchase, don’t go there. If you do need something and have a reason to go, make a list first and know what you’re getting before you go so you can minimize your time spent there.

The more time you spend in stores or restaurants or on e-commerce sites, the more likely it is that you’re going to spend money without intention. It’s easy to solve this problem: just don’t go to such places without specific intention. If you don’t have a specific purchase in mind, don’t head to a place where you buy stuff.

Why is this true? Stores are designed to talk us into spending money. That’s what they’re there for. They don’t exist if people don’t go in there and exchange their money for goods and services. If you’re in there, that’s what the business wants you to do. So, if you want to minimize the amount of money that exits your pocket, spend as little time as possible in places that are designed to make money exit your pocket.

LIVE SMALL

Live in the smallest home that’s still comfortable for you. Any space beyond that minimum essentially equates to paying for space to store more and more and more stuff. That stuff costs money, as does the housing expense for storing it, and the more stuff you have, the less time you actually have to use the stuff.

A smaller living area solves all of this at once. A small home is less expensive in terms of rent or mortgage. It has much lower utility bills because there’s a lot fewer cubic feet to heat and cool and a lot less space that needs lighting. It also saves on insurance.

Perhaps just as importantly, a smaller home puts an upper limit on how much stuff you can actually possess. There’s an upper limit on how much stuff that you can actually use with any sort of regularity and most large homes allow people to far exceed that limit, storing stuff away that they don’t touch for years and usually forget about. This means you’re less prone to buying stuff that will just fill your closet. This also means it’s a lot less expensive and a lot easier to move.

The savings for this one are enormous over a period of years, often measuring in the tens of thousands and even adding up to hundreds of thousands of dollars in many cases. Get the smallest living quarters you think you can handle and stick with it. Your financial future will be thrilled with the choice.

REFRESH BILLS

Once every few years, it’s a great idea to go through every single one of your recurring bills, re-evaluate whether you need them at all, and shop around for better deals and/or renegotiate the ones you decide to keep.

A great place to start is with your entertainment subscriptions. Netflix. Hulu. Amazon Prime. Spotify. Daily Burn. Your cable or satellite subscription. Your magazine subscriptions. Blue Apron (yeah, I think of this as entertainment). Hello Fresh. You get the idea.

For each of those things, ask yourself if you really need it. Are you getting enough value out of the service? Are you drowning in so many options that you’re missing out on a lot of the stuff? If so, it’s probably time to chop out a few services for a while, focus on what’s available on a smaller set of services, and then maybe change things around in the future.

You can do the same thing, more or less, with your other bills. Utilities. Insurance. Internet. Cellular service. Garbage collection. Your rent or mortgage. You get the idea.

Go through each and every one of those bills. See if there are charges on them that you don’t understand and ask to have them removed. If you have other options for that particular service, shop around a little and get some quotes, then use those fresh quotes to negotiate a better deal with your current provider (if you’re happy with them otherwise) or jump ship to a new provider.

This doesn’t have to be done all at once, nor does it need to be done on a regular basis. Just plow through everything once every few years and you’ll almost always end up chopping a lot of money out of your regular bills.

FIND YOUR FRIENDS

This one’s easy: find friends that care about doing things you’re interested in doing without spending money. You should never have to spend money just to impress your friends, nor should you have to spend money just to hang out with them if it’s not something you specifically want to do. If you find that keeping up with your social circle requires such expenses on any sort of frequent basis, then it’s time to think seriously about rebooting your social circle.

Start with the things you’re actually interested in without the influence of your current friends. What do you like to do when you’re alone? What hobbies do you have that you often shove on the back burner because they’re not approved of by your social circle? Let those things grow and blossom in your life, and then seek out people who share those interests.

Maybe you really like to hike but your social circle doesn’t really enjoy the outdoors. Seek out an outdoor club in your area, maybe by checking Meetup, and get involved with them. You don’t have to completely switch friends; just give yourself a social outlet for something you like to do with people who happen to also like the same thing.

Maybe you like to play long strategic board games but many of the people in your life aren’t into that so much (not that I’m speaking from experience or anything). Rather than abandoning what you’re interested in and then spending time and money on things you’re not interested in just to maintain a social circle, find people who like those long strategic board games and make room in your life to spend time with those people.

I find that when I’m in situations where I’m most accepted for who I am and what I’m interested in, I’m far less prone to spend money just to keep up with others. I feel far less self-conscious and much happier just doing things I enjoy, not buying things.

AUTOMATE

Automate as much of your savings and financial progress as you can so that you’re not you’re not faced with constant choices between your short term desires and your long term goals. By automating such things, you essentially make the choice in advance – you’re choosing your long-term life, not your short term pleasure.

The first and easiest step for many people is to just sign up for your workplace retirement plan. Many employers offer a 401(k), 403(b), TSP, or similar plan; just sign up and start contributing. Don’t worry about making a “perfect” investment choice when signing up – the perfect is the enemy of the good. Just choose one that’s recommended or that makes sense to you.

Another great step, one I strongly recommend for people, is to start automatically transferring a small amount from your checking to your savings each week. That money in your savings serves as an emergency fund, the money you tap when your car breaks down or something else goes haywire in your life. You are far better off turning to cash in hand in those situations than turning to a credit card – not only is the cash more reliable, it doesn’t come with finance charges that will further bring down your financial state.

You can actually automate many things. You can automate an extra debt payment each month either through online bill pay with your bank or with the lender themselves – that extra payment is just slurped out of your checking account. You can automate saving for a down payment using much the same method as the emergency fund strategy above, just bumping up the amount a lot.

The overall goal here is to make it so that you’re not tempted to spend your retirement savings or your down payment savings or your kid’s college savings in an impulsive moment. That money’s automatically stripped away and used for responsible things.

COOK

Make as many meals as you possibly can for yourself. The more meals you prepare for yourself at home, the better.

This isn’t just because preparing meals at home is vastly cheaper than eating out – that’s true, of course – but because the more you prepare meals at home, the more skilled you become at meal preparation, the easier it seems, and the more compelling it seems compared to eating out constantly.

Just cook at home. Start with simple stuff like scrambled eggs or a grilled cheese sandwich. Make a really simple salad – lettuce with some dressing you like and a few toppings on top. Make a soup – it’s mostly just adding ingredients to water and letting it cook for a while. Make spaghetti.

Along the way, learn how to pack a lunch for yourself and make that a routine. Start taking lunch to work each day, whether it’s leftovers or a sandwich or a thermos with soup in it.

Learn how to use a slow cooker so you have a warm meal ready when you walk in the door after a long day. Learn how to do meal prep so that you always have meals ready to go in the freezer that you made yourself.

This is all about learning and getting more comfortable with the kitchen. It’s going to be hard at first and it’ll feel like individual meals aren’t worth it – all of this work to save $5? The thing is, with each meal you make, every bit of it gets easier. The preparation. The actual cooking. The cleanup. It all gets easier and easier and more and more routine until you start to wonder why you would eat out most of the time.

There’s nothing wrong with eating out when it’s a special occasion – friends are in town or you’re celebrating a real achievement or something. However, your default strategy should be to eat relatively low cost meals prepared at home. They should be the backbone of your diet, both for short term cost and long term health reasons. The way to get there, to make it all efficient and not seem like a troublesome task, is to practice, and you practice by making lots of meals, even when it seems like more work than you want.

BUY USED

When at all possible, buy used versions of items. Make secondhand stores your first stop when buying things like dishes, photo frames, clothes, small kitchen appliances, musical instruments, tools, sporting goods, and so on. Buy them used, make sure you’re actually going to use the item a lot and can actually understand what a new version would give you in terms of benefits, and only upgrade if you need to. 95% of the time, you won’t use the item nearly enough to warrant an upgrade or replacement – the contents of your closet are proof positive of that.

This extends to bigger purchases, too, such as an automobile. You should always aim for buying used cars unless you happen to be in such strong financial shape that writing a check for a new car isn’t causing your financial situation to skip a beat. If that doesn’t sound like you, aim for late model used and plan in advance to be able to pay cash so that, again, you’re avoiding having to pay interest on another debt.

Most of the time with a used purchase, you’re paying 20% of the new cost (or thereabouts) and getting 80% of the value out of the item (or thereabouts). Used items are just tremendous bargains. Sure, you might get a slightly shorter lifespan, but for many items we buy, that’s not going to make a significant difference, particularly when you’re buying it for a fraction of the new price.

WEAR IT OUT

Once you do buy something, keep using it until it’s genuinely worn out and doesn’t function well. Even as it starts to reach that point, learn how to fix minor issues – a broken wheel on a lawnmower, for example, is not a reason to junk it and get a replacement.

This applies to almost all of the stuff people buy, from small things like cars and t-shirts to more expensive things like cell phones and computers to truly pricy things like cars. It’s simple: keep using things until they no longer serve the function you need from them.

Of course, part of the success of this rule comes down to maintaining your stuff. Keep up with the maintenance schedule on your car. Follow whatever’s recommended for maintenance on whatever items you buy, whether it’s changing the oil on your mower or washing your shirt on a delicate cycle. Taking a few seconds or a few minutes to do this will greatly extend the life of your stuff and keep money in your pocket where it belongs.

You should also make an effort to repair items that are no longer working. Don’t toss a toaster just because the lever doesn’t work; take a few moments to peek inside and see if it’s a simple fix. If it is, you’ve just saved some cash. (If not, head to the secondhand store.) Many things that “break” often have really simple fixes that get them right back in working order, so check and make sure that none of those simple fixes work before tossing the item out and buying a new one.

BUY STORE BRANDS

If you’re buying inexpensive items, like nonperishable foods and toiletries and the like, stick exclusively with store brand items unless there’s a specific reason not to do so because the store brand item has failed you in the past.

The prices on store brand items are almost always significantly cheaper than the name brands and are often the same exact item in different packaging with a lower price. The only difference is you’re not paying for the marketing and advertisements of the more expensive version.

Some people seem to worry a lot about having name brand products in their house instead of store brands. Quite honestly, almost no one cares about this, and the few that do aren’t worth wasting your money on to chase their opinions because they’re very likely to find some other fault in what you do.

Store brands are a bargain. Make that bargain a consistent part of your shopping experience.

BUY RELIABLE THINGS

When you’re buying something more expensive – a cell phone or a computer or a car, for example – spend the time to carefully research those purchases and aim for reliability, core functionality, and bang for the buck.

You want reliable items that will keep doing the job for many, many years. You want to focus on core functionality rather than lots of features you won’t use because that means there are fewer avenues for failure. Beyond that, you’ll want to strongly consider bang for the buck, where you’re getting most of the reliability at a much lower price.

My own default is to simply check Consumer Reports when buying a more expensive item. I tend to trust their Best Buy selections in terms of reliability and bang for the buck for most purchases and I’ll often end up buying their lowest priced recommendation.

Even if you spend a little bit more to get a reliable item, it will pay for itself in that you won’t have to replace it for a very long time. I’d far rather spend $20 on a pair of socks that will last ten years than $3 on a pair of socks that wear out in a year, for example.

Final Thoughts

Most of the core principles of personal finance are so simple that they can be broken down into just a few words. Beyond that, it’s just details and how to implement that principle.

Even better, most of those core principles are timeless. Most of these same principles worked just as well twenty years ago as they do now, and they’ll still work well in twenty years. The details and specific implementations might change, but the core idea remains the same.

The part that makes personal finance hard is that it relies on commitment and effort from you. Translating the clear principle into consistent action is the big challenge.

Are you up for that challenge?

Good luck!

The post Ten Simple Yet Life-Changing Personal Finance Strategies appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



Source The Simple Dollar http://bit.ly/2WamPHd

5 Side Gigs That’ll Let You Get Paid to Help People or Animals

This App Helps You Avoid Overdraft Fees by Advancing You up to $250

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So many of us live paycheck-to-paycheck, with no margin for error. We know what it’s like to see your checking account balance drop closer and closer to $0.

If you’re in this boat, we found a service that can help you avoid two of The Penny Hoarder’s pet peeves: overdraft fees and payday loans.

It’s an innovative app called Brigit, and more than a quarter of a million people are already using it.

It’s designed to protect you from paying expensive overdraft fees or taking out shady payday loans. If you’re in danger of overdrafting your bank account, Brigit will quickly loan you up to $250 — just like that.

You can request an advance anytime you have an unexpected expense, and Brigit will instantly deposit the money into your account. It’s not complicated — you just open the app and tap on your phone.

Or, like a lot of Brigit’s users, you can authorize the app to keep an eye on your bank account for you, and to automatically deposit a cash advance if you’re running low. That way, you can spend less time and stress worrying about overdrafts. You’ve got an automatic safety cushion now.

There are no late fees or interest charges. Instead, Brigit is a subscription-based service with a monthly membership fee — normally $9.99, but Penny Hoarders get a special rate of $7.99.

Imagine how much it could save you. If you overdraft your account by a measly $5 or $10, most banks retaliate by charging you a fee of $35 or so. Banks make a lot of their money this way.

Here’s How This App Has Your Back

If you have an emergency and need cash fast — or if you’re on the verge of overdrafting — Brigit can put money in your account quickly. It takes only one or two business days.

This is a cash advance, a short-term loan, and you pay Brigit back when you get paid. The app deducts your repayment from your bank account on payday, and it notifies you 24 hours in advance that it’s going to do that.

But if it turns out you need some extra time, Brigit’s got your back. If you’re still running low on cash, it allows you to extend your due date without paying any late fees. You can push back your due date up to three times.

Also, you can only get one cash advance at a time. You qualify for another advance as soon as you pay Brigit back.

According to the reviews, a lot of users like the option of having Brigit automatically help them avoid overdraft fees if their bank account is running low.

More than 250,000 people are using the app now, and it’s getting good reviews and has higher than a 4-star rating in both the iPhone’s App Store and on Google Play. (As of May 17, 2019.)

A Smart Payday Solution

You don’t need to have good credit to qualify for Brigit, although you do need a steady job. You’ll need to be able to show that you get recurring direct deposits from an employer.

Short-term loans aren’t necessarily meant to be a long-term solution to your financial needs. Ultimately, to avoid the trap of overdraft fees and payday loans, you’ll want to put yourself in a position where you’re earning more, spending less or both.

In the meantime, Brigit makes for a useful safety net for a lot of people.

Did you know that more than 10% of consumers ages 18 to 25 incur more than 10 overdraft fees per year, according to CNN Money? At the $33 average reported by Bankrate, that’s nearly $350!

And payday loans, instead of being a quick fix, can suck you into a cycle of debt with interest rates of more than 300%.

Almost 70% of payday loan borrowers take out a second payday loan within a month. This cycle can turn a short-term loan of a few hundred dollars into a growing mountain of debt totaling thousands of dollars.

According to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, the average repeat borrower pays more than $450 in fees on top of their principal over the course of a year.

Given all that, Brigit might be a smarter choice for you if — like so many of us — you’re living paycheck-to-paycheck and you’re operating on a thin margin.

If you’re stressed about overdrafting, it can offer you peace of mind.

Mike Brassfield (mike@thepennyhoarder.com) is a senior writer at The Penny Hoarder. He knows all about living paycheck-to-paycheck.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



source The Penny Hoarder http://bit.ly/2Wg7THO

3 Cool Charities Looking for Knitters

Do you yarn to help others with your crafty skills? If so check out some great charities looking for some knitting assistance.

Source Business & Money | HowStuffWorks http://bit.ly/2Xbodpk

3 Cool Charities Looking for Knitters

Do you yarn to help others with your crafty skills? If so check out some great charities looking for some knitting assistance.

Source Business & Money | HowStuffWorks http://bit.ly/2Xbodpk

Beware - Big Tech is watching you


Who wants a know-all around the house all the time? Apparently, we do. According to Argos, one in 10 households in the UK has a smart speaker – more than the number of UK households with a pet rabbit, which should give us all paws for thought (sorry).

In fact, Argos says that general smart-home product sales have gone up by 161% in the past year – and they should know. The Internet of Things (IoT or smart technology) has been creeping into our lives for years. At least that’s the way it feels. Actually, it was just 2015 – barely four years ago – when the first Amazon Echo hit the market.

Smart products will only become more popular in the UK as the year moves on. We will soon be able to interact with the most surprising of items.

For a start, who hasn’t at some point wished that they could interact more fully with their toilet? Well, now you can because US toilet maker Kohler has shoved an Alexa into its new loo. Yes, you can now install the Numi 2.0 intelligent toilet in your home. It promises a ‘fully immersive experience’ and includes interactive lighting (whatever that is), built-in speakers and voice control, all for a mere $7,000.

It’s just typical, though, isn’t it? All this technology and there’s still the need for paperwork!

Before you rush out excitedly to buy one of these ‘must-haves’, pause for a moment and consider the fact that that smart toilet is doing more than simply obeying your commands. It can also record you. It could even play it back to you. Delightful.

Because that’s what these IoT products do. They’re like News of the World reporters sitting in the corner of your room, making detailed notes of your every spit and cough and reporting it to the Cloud. Even your little Roomba vacuum cleaning robot is mapping out your home.

Who hasn’t wished they could interract with a toilet?

These too-clever-by-half little sneaks come across as fun, handy and even money-saving but, long-term, they may cost us big time if we don’t get wise now. Our so-called smart technology is too smart for us right now. There are suspicions that these devices are snooping on us day and night. And the biggest search engine on the planet knows where we are much of the time, what we’re searching for and what we’re saying to people in emails.

We’re also giving away health data. Last year a stake in the ancestry and DNA company 23andMe was sold to GlaxoSmithKline for $300 million. Why? Because most of their customers who paid to find out if they had a bit of Eskimo in their background also let them keep all of their (incredibly valuable) health data.

Over eight years or so, the company amassed a treasure trove of data – entirely or free – which was valuable enough for a massive corporate name like Glaxo to scoop up. Did any of their former clients see any of that cash? You’re having a laugh, aren’t you?

Earlier this year Harvard Professor Shoshana Zuboff published a ground-breaking book called The Age of Surveillance Capitalism (and, at 704 pages, it is literally ground-breaking – you could use it to break up clods of soil in the garden). It’s worth a read if you have the time (or just watch video interviews with her if you’re too busy gardening).

Professor Zuboff explains, in frightening detail, how much of our personal data Big Tech companies have already gathered for free, and in secret, and how it’s already affecting what we buy and do and can seriously affect our ability to get various insurances, loans and jobs later on.

So what should you do with your smart technology? Stamp on it. Drown it in the bath. Melt down the nasty little chip and when that’s done, stick the whole lot in the bin (providing you’re sure there’s none of your data on it). Don’t wear a health monitor, and find out if your email provider is reading your messages.

Or, if you’d like to hang on to these gadgets, get in touch with the companies that make them and demand payment for your data – particularly your health information. A few grand a year should cover it, with a written undertaking that your health and life insurance will not be denied based on data harvested from your smart tech.

Obviously, they will say no, but it should wipe the smile off their faces, just for a moment.

Jasmine Birtles gives talks on investing and technology.
Her latest speech is called ‘The Future of Technology: What Could Possibly Go Wrong?’

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From 30 years away to just one: start planning now for your dream retirement

Start planning now for your dream retirement

The sooner you start planning for later life, the more likely you’ll be able to afford the lifestyle you want. Find out the steps to take whether you have decades or just months to go

Starting at 30 or more years before your target retirement date and counting down to your final 12 months in work, we run through the main considerations and actions to take at each stage to ensure you are retirement-ready.

30 or more years to go…

It is never too early to think about the life you would like to lead in retirement.

While it may feel like a long way off, the sooner you start saving the better off you will eventually be.

The first step is to make a plan: work out how much you are able to save, the returns you want from your investments and how you will make use of pensions and Isas to save.

Get into the habit of making regular payments and make sure you increase contributions whenever you get a pay rise – before you get used to having the extra money.

This may be easier said than done, as you may still be paying off your student loan, saving for your first home or struggling with high living costs. However, it is well worth saving even small sums as actions taken 30 years out from retirement will have a huge impact on the size of your pension and when you will be able to retire.

One of the biggest advantages of saving early is the power of compounding interest. This effectively means earning ‘interest on interest’ and turbocharges the speed at which your savings grow over the years.

In fact, someone who starts saving at 21 and stops at 30 would end up with a bigger pension pot than someone who starts at 30 and stops at 70, according to research company CLSA. This assumes both savers enjoy the same returns of  7% every year.

As a starting point, make sure you are signed up to your workplace pension. Under auto-enrolment rules, eligible employees will be automatically signed up to their workplace pension. Although you can opt out, this rarely makes sense.

Roland Jones, a chartered wealth manager at Harpsden Wealth Management, says: “Even if you only pay the minimum, join so you can benefit from the company contributions as well.”

From April 2019, employers are legally required to pay a minimum contribution level of 3% into a pension, while employees must pay in at least 5%. Some employers may contribute more.

“It is a good way of building money up without thinking too much about it,” says Graeme Mitchell, managing director of financial advice firm Lowland Financial. However, he stresses that while it provides a foundation it can’t be relied upon on solely to provide the nest egg required for retirement.

“Auto-enrolment is just a piece of the puzzle – it is not the whole puzzle,” Darren Lloyd Thomas, a chartered financial planner at Thomas and Thomas Finance, adds.

He suggests paying as much into your scheme as you can, especially if your employer is able to match your contributions.

If you don’t have access to a workplace pension, you can start your own pension. If you are self-employed, you can set up a simple defined contribution pension via the National Employment Savings Trust (Nest). Alternatively, you may wish to set up a self-invested personal pension (Sipp) via an online investment platform, such as Hargreaves Lansdown or interactive investor (Moneywise’s parent company), where you will get a wider choice of investment options. Consider costs and charges, as these can have a significant impact on your returns.

Pensions will also benefit from tax relief – effectively a refund of the tax you paid on your earnings and means that basic-rate taxpayers – who receive 20% relief – only need to pay £80 to invest £100 into their pension. Higher-rate taxpayers receive tax relief of 40% and additional-rate taxpayers get 45%.

This tax relief means pensions are usually better for building your retirement savings than an Isa. However, as you don’t pay tax when you take money out of your Isa the latter can still be a useful complement to pension income in retirement.

Isas are also good for tax-free saving and are accessible should you need them before the age at which you can access pensions (55 at the moment and 57 from 2028).

Mr Thomas suggests taking considerable risk with your retirement savings, given that it is still a long way off. Higher risk increases the likelihood of greater returns, and you have time for your investments to recover if they take a hit. This could involve having a large allocation to global equities, specifically growth stocks, and a lower exposure to cash and bonds.

The key is to invest regularly into the stock market because this can average out the peaks and troughs associated with investing over time, known as ‘pound cost averaging’. You can ask your workplace pension provider how your savings are invested and most will provide different options.

With 30 years to go, you may wish to work with a financial adviser or wealth manager to devise an investment strategy. Alternatively, you could select a growth-oriented, ready-made multi-manager fund or portfolio via an investment platform.

The sooner you start saving, the better…

What happens if someone with average earnings of £28,000 is hoping to retire at 65? The table below shows how much they and their employer need to contribute either to reach a £300,000 pension pot or to generate a total income (including state pension) of two thirds of pre-retirement earnings. The table compares what happens if they start at the age of 25 versus 35 versus 45.

HOW YOUR STARTING AGE AFFECTS PENSION GROWTH

  Contribution required for different starting ages
Shown as a monetary sum per month and as a % of salary
  Age 25 Age 35 Age 45
Targeting a fund at retirement with an equivalent value of £300,000 today £430/18% £630/27% £1,050/45%
Targeting a fund at retirement to offer a 67% income replacement* £370/16% £550/23% £900/39%

Notes: * This includes the value of the state pension – for example, 67% replacement of £28,000 income is £18,700. State pension is £8,500, so you need to fund £10,200 a year from your accumulated pot. Source: Royal London, March 2019

20 years to go…

At this stage, the key focus should be on building and increasing contributions to your pension, as well as making the most of your annual Isa allowance.

Mr Thomas acknowledges that this can be tricky as some parents face the double whammy of a big mortgage and education costs, but recommends trying to pay in as much possible to reap the benefits later on.

He also suggests thinking about reorganising any debt you have to provide some breathing space during your so-called ‘golden’ years. This refers to the period ahead of retirement, when your earnings are high and you have fewer financial obligations. For example, paying off your mortgage five to 10 years ahead of retirement could enable you to step up pension contributions. Ultimately, this could mean that you are able to retire earlier than planned or work part-time in the run-up to retirement.

At this point, Mr Jones says a higher-rate taxpayer should consider a salary-sacrifice arrangement with their employer. if they haven't already. This involves paying pension contributions from your gross salary, so the employee and employer pay less in national insurance contributions, ultimately providing a boost to pension contributions.

Mr Thomas suggests leaving the underlying strategy unchanged with a focus on stocks and shares, specifically growth companies.

“You have got to be prepared to tolerate the volatility of the markets and remember you are able to exploit pound cost averaging. Even if markets crash, you can buy in at cheap levels – so it is worth keeping risk and volatility up,” he explains.

How can a financial adviser help?

A professional can help you navigate the complex world of retirement planning by:

  • Setting up a pension
  • Investing a pension and monitoring it on an ongoing basis
  • Planning how much money you need to save and how to achieve your goals
  • Making the best use of your pension allowance and tax relief
  • Deciding whether to buy an annuity or draw down your pension
  • Understanding when to make withdrawals from your pension and potential tax implications
  • Managing a pension in drawdown

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Start planning now for your dream retirement

15 years to go…

At this point, it is important to review your retirement plan with your partner if you have one – and if you haven’t made a plan yet, make sure you put one in place and start saving as much as you possibly can.

“I encourage people to sit down as a couple and consider: if you retired tomorrow, how much income you'd want,” says Steve Wilson, a director at Alan Steel Asset Management.

This provides you with a chance to work out whether the assumed growth rate of your pension, savings and planned pension contributions can deliver the income you desire.

Toby Alcock, a chartered financial planner at Lockhart Capital Management, says this process will help you work out whether your objectives are realistic. Once expectations have been adjusted, he says you can “start to build a track to run on”. This plan can be updated each year, in line with life’s twists and turns.

Financial advisers typically use cash-flow modelling tools to illustrate how much your savings will need to grow to deliver the income you require, as well as the amount of risk you will need to take.

You can access these tools via apps, such as 7Imagine from Seven Investment Management or through your workplace pension or personal pension provider.

Also check the value of your state pension to find out how much it is likely to be once you retire on Gov.uk/check-state-pension.

Carl Drummond, a senior wealth planner at Sanlam Wealthsmiths, suggests requesting a state pension forecast every five years so that you can make any contributions to get back on track.

It is also worth obtaining up-to-date valuations from all of your private pensions to build a picture of the savings you have accrued.

At this stage – when your earnings are likely to be around their peak and your mortgage and any children hopefully less of a financial strain than they were – it is important to pay as much into your pension as you can.

“It is about understanding what you are able to put in because the pension landscape changes. At the moment, you have an annual allowance of up to £40,000, but for those who earn more than £150,000 that annual allowance tapers down,” Mr Alcock explains.

“For high earners, it is really important that they understand what they are able to put in each year and whether they are in a position to maximise that,” he adds.

Alongside your annual pension contributions, consider using your annual Isa allowance. Any pension income you have could be subject to income tax, so money in Isas can provide a handy source of tax-free income or lump sums once you retire.

At this point, you should ensure you have completed an expression of wishes form, outlining whom you would like to leave your pension to in the event of death. This is particularly important because pensions will not be covered by your will but can be passed on to your beneficiary of choice, free of inheritance tax.

10 years to go…

With around a decade to go, you should review any legacy pensions to assess whether it would be beneficial to consolidate them. By the time you reach your 50s and 60s, you may have a handful of pensions from previous jobs – covering defined contribution, defined benefit or personal pensions – some of which may not have been touched for years.

A financial adviser can help you to review your pension arrangements, providing insight into the pensions that are worth keeping and those that should be combined. If you do this yourself, take a look at the charges on each pension and the impact they are having on your pot, any potential penalties, the benefits on offer and the investment strategy that is being employed.

In some cases, consolidating pensions can reduce the overall level of charges within your pot. “But even more importantly, it means we can control the level of risk properly within the pension,” Mr Drummond adds.

Tackle multiple workplace pensions

Steve Webb, former pensions minister and director of policy at Royal London, shares his tips:

  • Keep your paperwork somewhere safe. Throughout your working life you could end up with many different pensions. A good filing system is essential to keep track.
  • Notify your old pension schemes of your contact details – especially if you’ve moved house – or they could lose track of you.
  • Update your records. Make sure all your old pensions will go to the person you want to receive them if you die. Your preference may have changed.
  • Stay updated.  If you can’t remember what happened to an old pension, you can use the government’s free Pension Tracing Service (Gov.uk/find-pension-contact-details).
  • Check the charges. Consider consolidating pensions, but work out whether it will be worthwhile and charges you might incur.

Five years to go…

If you have a defined contribution pension, it is important to review how your pot is invested to make sure you are taking appropriate levels of risk to generate the required returns.

Also ensure your portfolio is diversified: avoid taking on too much risk at this stage – the last thing you want to do is jeopardise the gains you have made so far. You can also book a free Pension Wise appointment to get an insight into the next steps to take.

As at 15 and 10 years, you should check your state pension forecasts and get up-to-date valuations from existing pensions to check you are on track.

Around the five-year point, you should also think about whether you would like to convert your pension into an annuity. This is a secure income for life, paid out by an insurance company.

The alternative route is to move your pension into drawdown. This means drawing a variable income directly from your pension, which remains invested in your retirement. While a drawdown strategy can produce a healthier income than an annuity, it is not guaranteed and you could run out of money.

There is no right or wrong answer and much will come down to your priorities. For some individuals, a combination will make sense.

“An individual might want to consider an annuity to provide some guaranteed income for the level of expenses they need and put the rest of the money into a flexible drawdown, so they can draw income when they require it,” Mr Drummond adds.

Finally, it still makes sense to pump as much into your pension as possible and consider paying any bonuses or windfalls such as inheritances into your pension. Although you may not have such a long investment timeframe at this stage, tax relief will still give it an instant boost.

If the amount you wish to contribute exceeds £40,000 during a tax year, you can carry forward any annual allowance you haven’t used during the previous three financial years.

One year to go…

It’s now time to start thinking about logistics. First contact your pension providers to request up-to-date valuations for all your pots.

Up to two months before you reach the state pension age, you will receive a letter from the government outlining how to claim your pension. You can do this online, over the phone. or you can download a claim form online (form BR1) and post it to your local pension centre. (You can defer this if you retire after your state pension age – just don’t put in a claim.)

By this point, you should have decided whether you want to buy an annuity or go into drawdown. If you have opted for the annuity route, the process of de-risking your portfolio should hopefully be under way.

Always shop around for the best annuity and declare any health problems you might have as this could get you a better rate.

Alex Brown, wealth management director at Mattioli Woods, suggests allowing a month to shop around. From his experience, it can then take another month to transfer pension assets to the insurer. You may also need time to amalgamate several pensions.

For those opting for the drawdown route, you’ll also need to shop around for the right provider, as charges can vary significantly.

You will need to consider your investment strategy and how much you can afford to withdraw. Think about how you will access your income. Will you take your 25% tax-free lump sum right away or in stages? You may prefer to draw from your Isas and cash savings initially, allowing your pension to continue to grow.

If you like the idea of remaining invested in retirement but find the task daunting, it is worth hiring a financial adviser to do the legwork for you. They can chart a plan of action and work out the most tax-efficient way to draw down your retirement income. This will involve looking beyond your pension, factoring in Isas and other savings.

Is it worth paying for financial advice?

Good financial advice doesn’t come cheap. The Money Advice Service estimates the average hourly rate for an adviser is £150. Some advisers charge up to £300 an hour. Looking beyond the charges, it is worth considering the value that a good adviser can add. Research from the International Longevity Centre, carried out in 2017, suggests that affluent individuals who sought advice were, on average, £30,882 better off than those who didn’t get advice. Meanwhile, those who were ‘just getting by’ were on average £25,859 better off than those who didn’t get advice.

 

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Source Moneywise http://bit.ly/2wpiNeQ