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الثلاثاء، 11 سبتمبر 2018

How to Make an Advertisement for Your Business

You’ve just purchased advertising and you need to provide an image or have one created. How important is the creative and copy you use? Very! Whether you purchased an advertisement in print, or online, the visual aspect is very important, critical even. Especially, if you’re advertising online, you want something persuasive that will make them […]

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The US Forest Service Is Hiring More Than 1,900 Seasonal Workers for 2019


Labor Day may have come and gone, but that doesn’t mean all of the summer hiring sprees have, too.

The U.S. Forest Service is on the search for more than 1,900 seasonal workers — but not for this year. The organization is already looking to fill positions for spring and summer of 2019.

An agency of the Department of Agriculture, the U.S. Forest Service oversees 154 national forests and 20 national grasslands.

To support such a vast expanse of land, the Forest Service employs a large temporary workforce, especially during the summer months. In the 2015 fiscal year, the agency reportedly hired over 12,000 temporary employees.

The Forest Service is divided into nine regions. The Pacific Northwest region announced it is filling over 1,000 positions, and the Rocky Mountain region is looking to employ over 900. The remaining regions have not specified any numbers but have plenty of openings available.

If you’re dreaming of a job in the great outdoors, snagging a temporary job with the Forest Service could be the first step to securing a permanent career.

Seasonal US Forest Service Jobs

You might think the Forest Service only employs extremely outdoorsy-type positions like park rangers, but think again. The agency has a wide variety of roles that need to be filled, so don’t count yourself out.

The types of seasonal jobs available vary by region, with categories such as fire, timber, recreation, trails, archaeology, hydrology, wildlife, botany, fisheries and customer service.

Some specific positions currently available include forestry technician, visitor information assistant, laborer, archaeologist and biological science technician — and that’s just to name a few.

Note that if you’re interested in a fire position, applicants must be able to complete the work capacity test annually. To pass, you have to do a 3-mile hike while carrying a 45-lb. bag in 45 minutes.

Jobs with the Forest Service are broken down into a pay system called General Schedule, or GS, with grades from GS-1 to GS-15. Each grade is determined by the job’s level of difficulty, responsibility and qualifications required, with GS-1 being the lowest. So the lower the grade, the lower the pay and required qualifications.

Most of the jobs listed pay between $11 and $20 per hour, with full-time schedules. Some will come with health benefits, but it depends on the position and hours worked.

How to Apply

If you’re interested in applying for a temporary job with the Forest Service, you can browse available positions on their outreach site, but applications have to be submitted through the USAJobs.gov.

Here’s what you need to do to apply:

  • Head over to USAJobs.gov and create an account, or login into your existing account and update any information as needed.
  • Upload or create a resume — you can save up to five versions.
  • Upload any relevant documents such as college transcripts or training certificates — up to 10 documents can be saved to your account.
  • Search available jobs using keywords such as the job title, agency name or job announcement number.

You can apply for multiple Forest Service positions, but make sure you’re checking the location and qualifications first, and then tailoring your resume to fit the position.

If you don’t see a position that catches your attention, there may be more posted later. Each region will have a designated period for applications.

Check out the application timelines for each region:

Since the application timelines vary by region, the hiring process and employment dates will as well. Most of the final hiring decisions will be made between November and January, and employment could start anywhere between March and August.

Kaitlyn Blount is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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Channel Your Inner Bob Ross for This $10K Greeting Card Scholarship Contest


Are you the creative and crafty type? Maybe Bob Ross is your hero?

Then I’ve got good news.

This is your chance to put those happy little trees to good use and enter The Gallery Collection’s 12th Annual Create-A-Greeting-Card $10,000 Scholarship Contest.

That’s right, your artistic endeavors could earn you $10,000, plus $1,000 for your school.

Who’s Eligible to Enter the Gallery Collection Scholarship?

Current high school, homeschool, college and university students ages 14 and older are eligible to enter the greeting card contest.

You must be a legal resident of the United States, the District of Columbia, American Samoa, Guam, the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, the U.S. Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico to submit an entry.

How to Enter the Create-a-Greeting-Card Contest

Creating your card is the hard part, but entering is easy.

Once you illustrate an original Christmas, holiday, birthday or all-occasion greeting card, fill out the Create-A-Greeting-Card submission form and attach your design.

Your submission must be your original work: photo, illustration or computer graphics.

No doubt, you have a lot of ideas, but there’s only one entry per person; anything more and you risk being disqualified.

The deadline to enter your masterpiece is 11:59 p.m. Eastern Time on March 1, 2019.

How to Win the Create-A-Greeting-Card Scholarship

There’s only one $10,000 prize, but there are nine months’ worth of entries.

Every month, a panel of judges will select the top 100 designs and post them to The Gallery Collection’s Facebook page, where members of the public can vote for their favorite design. Only one vote per person per day is allowed.

Only 10 designs make it to the final round. The judges will choose five of the designs, while the voters will determine the other five.

The judges will score and choose a winner based on the following criteria:

  1. Overall aesthetic appeal.
  2. Quality of execution.
  3. Creativity and originality.
  4. Successful incorporation of design elements.
  5. Appropriateness for use as a greeting card.
  6. Attractiveness to The Gallery Collection’s corporate and consumer customers.
  7. Suitability as a design in The Gallery Collection greeting card line.

Scope out the official scholarship rules yourself for all the nitty-gritty detail, and check out past greeting card winners and finalists while you’re at it.

Remember: We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents.

If you’re not artistically inclined, don’t worry. Just like our College page on Facebook to discover other scholarship opportunities.

And if you’re looking for even more scholarships to apply for, be sure to check out our list of 100 scholarships that will help you pay for college.

Stephanie Bolling is a staff writer at The Penny Hoarder. She makes friends with trees.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.



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3 Cheap Ways to Stock Up on Water ASAP Ahead of Hurricane Florence

How to Find – and Get the Most Value Out of – Your Local Discount Grocer

One of the most powerful strategies out there for saving money on your food bill (once you’ve cracked the real secret, which is that making your own meals and eating at home is a tremendous money saver) is to do most of your grocery shopping at a discount grocer. If you shop for groceries by default at a store where you know that the prices are consistently low, it’s easy to save money.

Let’s first talk about what a discount grocer is. A discount grocer is a grocery store that focuses primarily on keeping prices low on the shelves. Compared to other stores, they often achieve this by doing things like building in a less expensive location, having fewer employees in the store, having slightly narrower store aisles, having fewer specialty departments, spending much less on advertising, and having a focus on store brands on the shelves.

Because of this focus – less-trafficked areas, less advertising – many people overlook the discount grocers in their area and shop at the more well-known and expensive grocers that occupy the more prominent locations and advertise in print, radio, and television. This is why people, for example, wind up shopping at Publix and miss out on the handful of discount grocers within a few miles of the Publix.

I used to do this very thing. If you go back and look at my earliest articles on The Simple Dollar, I shopped at Hy-Vee almost exclusively – the largest grocery store chain in my area. Over the years, however, I’ve become wiser with my grocery shopping options. Today, I mostly shop at Faraway (the discount grocer that’s closest to my house) and, occasionally, at Aldi (a very popular discount grocer) and Sam’s Club (a warehouse club). I generally only go elsewhere when seeking items I can’t find at Fareway – usually Hy-Vee or a food co-op.

How much do we save? It’s hard to say, but most months, our family’s food spending for a family of five comes in below what the USDA suggests a thrifty family of four should be spending on food. If I still shopped mostly at Hy-Vee, that would most decidedly not be the case – I know because sometimes I have to make late night runs to Hy-Vee and I get sticker shock these days when I go there.

How did I make this transition? How much has it saved me? How do I maximize that savings? That’s what I’m going to share today!

Finding Your Local Discount Grocer

The first and biggest step is to simply figure out which grocery store in your area is the best discount grocer. In other words, which grocery store within a reasonable radius of your house offers the best overall prices on the goods you buy most frequently?

If you figure out what store that is and then make a concerted effort to make that your primary grocery store, you’re going to end saving a dime here or a quarter there or a dollar there on most of the food items you buy, and that’s going to add up to a ton of savings over time.

Here’s how to start.

Step One: Make up a “typical grocery list.” Making a grocery list might seem like a strange place to start with this process, but it’s the key to figuring out which grocery store is really the best value in your area.

Simply put, what you want is a list of the twenty to thirty items you buy most frequently at the grocery store, items that pop up on your grocery list again and again. Bread. Eggs. Milk. Cereal. Rice. Hot dogs. Potatoes. Trash bags. Chicken breasts. Spinach. Dry beans. Canned tomatoes. Toilet paper. Ground beef. Whatever it is that you buy regularly, put it on your list.

Don’t just do this off the top of your head, though. When I was first doing this, what I found that worked best was to simply save my receipts and grocery lists for a couple of months and then use that material to figure out what items were most common amongst them. What items show up multiple times on those receipts and lists?

You don’t want to aim for everything that you buy or else this whole process would take a long time. Rather, you want a list that contains things you buy multiple times in a month. Occasional buys are much less important for this list.

Once you have that “typical grocery list,” you’re ready to start looking at stores.

Step Two: Find a big list of all grocery stores in your area, then filter that list a bit. The first step here is easy: just go to Google and search for “grocery stores within 20 miles of me.” That will give you a giant list of grocery stores within a reasonable radius of your house. Naturally, you can adjust the mileage number to what’s convenient for you – 20 miles i a good number for my living situation.

You’re likely going to come up with a list of fifty or so grocers (or maybe even more). There’s a good chance you haven’t even heard of a lot of them. Many of them will be specialty food stores that Google has decided to lump in with this search. Others will be your typical grocery stores that you’re familiar with.

What you’ll want to do is make a list of every grocery store that you think might even potentially be in the running for the best discount grocer in your area. The only stores you likely want to throw out here are premium grocers like Whole Foods and specialty shops where you won’t be doing your full grocery shopping anyway. Make a big list of everything else and then start researching those stores a little.

One really effective way of doing this is to type in the name of each grocery store in Google followed by the word “discount.” If you find a fair number of results, particularly if their website shows up quickly in the search results, this is a store you’re going to want to check out.

Mostly, you’re looking to exclude stores that are obviously not discount stores. You don’t want to include stores like Whole Foods, Acme, The Fresh Market, Fresh Thyme, and so on that are generally pretty expensive.

Some stores you are definitely going to want to include in your comparison shopping are Aldi, Costco, Fareway, Sam’s Club, Market Basket, Trader Joe’s, WinCo, and Woodman’s, as well as independent grocers in your area.

Ideally, you’re going to wind up with a list of five to ten grocery stores to check out.

Step Three: Shop with your “typical grocery list” at each store in the area and keep track of the receipts. Over the next few months, go to each of the stores you found with your “typical grocery list” and try to buy everything on it (or at least check the price) along with your other needed groceries for the week.

If you have something on your “typical” list that you don’t intend to buy, find it in the store anyway and write down the regular price of that item.

You’ll likely find that different stores have different brands available. My general recommendation is to either buy the brand you normally use or compare store brands. Since I buy a lot of store brand products, that’s usually what I compare when comparing the prices in different stores whenever possible.

Just make that into your normal shopping trip for the week, and then save the receipt and grocery list from that trip for future reference.

Step Four: When you’re done evaluating stores, compare the receipts and see which store comes out on top – that’s your discount grocer going forward. It’s likely that as you shop at different stores during step three, you’re going to have a strong sense as to which stores are inexpensive and which ones are not. My experience was that I came up with a small handful of stores that were clearly ahead of the pack – Fareway, Aldi, Costco, Sam’s Club, and a little independent grocer that’s no longer in business were the big winners for me when I did this.

With that data, figure out what your new primary store is going to be. I suggest choosing the most convenient one out of the top five or so stores, as it’s not worth driving a long distance out of your way just to save a few cents a week when there’s a store nearly as cheap that’s really convenient and close for you.

It’s through this very process that I wound up becoming a pretty faithful customer of Fareway, as they have really good prices and are really convenient for me. My only complaint is that their selection is a little on the limited side – they’re great for staples and basic meals, but I sometimes have to go elsewhere for unusual ingredients or items. Fareway gets the vast majority of my grocery store dollars.

Recently, I tried to estimate how much money I’ve saved by going through this process and migrating to Fareway as my primary grocery store instead of Hy-Vee. I recently had to shop at Hy-Vee in a late-night pinch due to travel issues and bought a bunch of staples there to save time, so I saved the receipt and compared it to a recent Fareway receipt. My rough estimation is that I save $40 a week by shopping at Fareway instead of Hy-Vee for most groceries, which adds up to around $2,000 a year.

Now, there’s nothing whatsoever wrong with Hy-Vee. They offer a lot of items unavailable at Fareway and it’s usually easier to find an employee in Hy-Vee. Their produce section, something of particular interest to me, is far larger than Fareway’s produce section. However, when I’m buying a typical week’s worth of groceries for my family, Fareway has 95% of what I need and can cover everything most weeks, and I’m usually saving a fair amount of money by going there.

Maximizing Your Local Discount Grocer

If you’re already disrupting your regular grocery store shopping routine by switching to a new store, it’s also good time to disrupt your other grocery shopping habits and adopt some new strategies that will save you additional money when you’re shopping at the store.

Here are four new shopping strategies to try on at your new preferred grocery store.

Step One: If available, download their weekly flyer and use it as the basis for your meals for the week. Most grocery stores make a weekly flyer available on their website. If your new discount grocer does so, visit their website before you go to the grocery store and see what they have on sale for the week.

Then, spend some time figuring out what meals you’ll be preparing for the next several days, and try to figure out how to use some of those on-sale items in those meals.

This is a really great way to have some variety in your diet while still keeping your food costs low. Just center your meal planning around whatever happens to be on sale at the grocery store when you visit. You can plan that in advance with their flyer.

Step Two: Shop with a grocery list. If you’ve got a meal plan in place before you go, which is the core idea of the previous step, take it an additional step and make a grocery list before you head out the door. List all of the things you need to pull off that full meal plan.

Doing this at home is a smart idea because it gives you the chance to go through the cupboards and the pantry and figure out what you actually need and what you already have on hand.

The goal here is to avoid redundant purchases. Redundant purchases are bad – they end up filling your pantry with an overabundance of staples. Yes, you’re using those staples, but if you have a ton of that stuff, there’s a good chance that some of it will go bad or go to waste. Buying in bulk is great, but if you have too much stuff, it can backfire on you.

Another advantage of a grocery list is that it gives you something to focus on. The trip to the store becomes a series of specific tasks – “find two gallons of milk,” then “find a loaf of bread,” then “find three zucchini” – rather than just wandering the aisles looking for things. The more you wander, the more likely you are to be distracted and influenced by spontaneous buys, which really hurt your food savings even at a discount grocer.

Step Three: Try the store brands. If you’re already migrating to a new store, it’s a perfect time to try out the store brands that are available in this new store. Quite often, store brands are just repackaging of the same exact name brand item, but with a lower price and without the marketing on the outer label. In other words, you pay less for perfectly good stuff.

If you’re already moving to a discount grocer, you’re knocking nickels and quarters and dollars off of the price off of a lot of your items already. If you combine that with a conscious switch to store brands, you’re going to knock even more nickels and quarters and dollars off of your grocery bill.

I personally buy as many store brands as possible on all types of goods. Even some items that I used to avoid store brands on, such as garbage bags, have seen me convert to the store brand version in recent years. They work well and they save money – what’s not to love?

Step Four: Embrace leftovers. One final strategy that I think is absolutely key in cutting back on one’s food spending is to simply embrace leftovers. Leftovers are not a bad thing. They’re simply a way to recoup even more of your food spending, and they become pretty convenient when you have a leftover system in place.

My preferred leftover strategy is to have leftovers as part of or for an entire family meal at least twice a week, and also to pack individual meals out of much of the leftovers after dinner. My goal is to simply avoid throwing any food away if at all possible. Some things, like a salad gone questionable, hits the trash, but if the food is still good, I want to eat it rather than throw it away. Edible food thrown in the trash is money thrown into the trash.

A few good strategies that we use:

+ Eat leftovers the next day for lunch. The easy way to do this is to buy some small containers at the grocery store and pack an individual meal out of what’s leftover from supper. You don’t have to eat it the next day if you don’t want, but you should eat it within 2-3 days.

+ Put all other leftovers in the fridge in larger containers and date it with a piece of masking tape and a marker. It takes like fifteen seconds to do this.

+ Every third or fourth day, pull out all containers and use the contents for supper. Let everyone assemble plates out of what they want from the leftovers, adding things to be reheated to their plate, reheating the plate, then adding any cold items. Yes, it might be a strange melange of foods, but it’s basically a free buffet.

One of the best ways to stretch your food budget is to simply try to avoid throwing anything away.

Final Thoughts

Making these kinds of systematic changes to how and where you buy food and how you consume it can drastically cut the amount of money you spend on food without significantly changing what it is you actually eat.

Take a typical hamburger, made out of ground beef, a bun, a slice of cheese, and some condiments. If you switch stores and the ground beef drops from $4.99 a pound to $3.99 a pound, you’re saving a quarter on your quarter-pound burger. If the price of a dozen slices of cheese goes from $3.99 to $2.99, you’re saving eight cents on that cheese slice. If your buns drop from $2.99 a bag to $2.19, you’re saving a dime on the bun. Add in a few cents saved on the condiments and that burger is suddenly $0.50 cheaper than before with no actual change to what you’re eating. If you do that with everything you eat at home, those savings are going to add up fast.

The “big wins” you can pull off in this area are to simply eat more at home, switch to a lower cost grocery store, and use a little more planning in your grocery shopping.

Good luck!

The post How to Find – and Get the Most Value Out of – Your Local Discount Grocer appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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Six Investing Tools to Hone Your Perfect Portfolio

When I finally crawled out of debt and found myself with a little bit of money to invest, my next step was figuring out an investment strategy. I’m not a day trader, so I wasn’t interested in finding the perfect tool for buying and selling stocks. Rather, I wanted a way to assess how my wealth would grow based on the asset allocation I chose.

I found several tools that do a great job of letting you test out the performance of different portfolios. If you play around with the following tools and calculators, you should be able to find a portfolio that fits your unique needs.

Vanguard, Fidelity, and Other Large Brokerages: To Build an Institution-Specific Portfolio

If you already have a retirement or brokerage account with a big institution, then that’s the logical place to begin your hunt for a good portfolio. I invest with Vanguard for a variety of reasons, but one is the section of their site dedicated to investment calculators and tools. This is a great resource for constructing mock portfolios and seeing how they have performed in the past.

They have sections that help you set an asset allocation, compare fund performance side-by-side, plan for retirement, and even to plan for education expenses.

In my estimation, the most useful area is their mutual fund and ETF screener. This page allows you to find funds that fit your specific needs based on categories like fund type (stock, bond, domestic, international, etc.), fund value (small growth, large value, etc.), expense ratio, and total return.

Of course, if you don’t use a large brokerage, tools like this will be less applicable. Each institution’s services are tailored toward investing in the funds they own, so it wouldn’t make much sense to use them if your investments are spread among several different accounts.

Portfolio Charts: To Find the Portfolio You Might Have Missed

Portfolio Charts allows you to work with 12 different calculators to build a personalized portfolio. Each calculator provides valuable analysis on a different aspect of your chosen asset allocation. They allow you to quickly figure out a given portfolio’s sustainable withdrawal rate, the time to financial independence, annual returns, and much more.

It’s simple to test out different strategies, and all the calculations produce beautifully rendered charts. Overall, it scores points for being intuitive and easy to use.

For those looking for good portfolio ideas in the shortest amount of time, I recommend going straight to the “Portfolio Finder” page. This section allows you to input your preferred asset allocation, your desired rate of return, and your risk tolerance. You’re then shown a set of unique portfolios that historically had the highest returns based on the inputs you provided. As the site puts it, this area is useful because it allows you to “search every possible combination of assets and identifies the historically least painful options that consistently met your needs.”

I also like Portfolio Charts for its signature flourishes, such as the “Ulcer Index,” which is a single number that approximates how stressful it would be to hold different portfolios based on how they’ve performed during recessions.

One downside to the site is that it has a tendency to run a bit slower than some other calculators. In my opinion, the wait is well worth it.

Portfolio Visualizer: For Deep Learning and Side-by-Side Comparisons

The homepage of Portfolio Visualizer is a finance nerd’s dream. The sheer number of tools they put at your disposal is impressive. You can do a factor analysis. You can build a momentum portfolio. You can look at a fund’s performance attribution. You can do adaptive allocations. To be honest, I don’t know what half of their offerings mean, but if you want to get into the nuts and bolts of portfolio construction, this is the place to be.

They also allow you to test out a wider variety of assets than any other site I found. From emerging markets to gold to REITs, it’s got you covered. It’s also great for international investors, as you can easily build portfolios based on European or world stocks.

While the level of granular detail you can get into is impressive, I find the site is most useful for the way in which it allows for portfolio comparisons. When backtesting a portfolio, they allow you to enter three asset allocations at once. Then, when you run the calculations, you’re presented with detailed information on all three portfolios on the same page. This is so convenient, and it’s a feature that’s surprisingly lacking on a lot of other sites.

The only downside, in my view, is that the site is a little too stark and utilitarian. I found the other sites on this list feel more warm and inviting in the way they guide you through the use of their tools. Portfolio Visualizers is all about the math, which makes it slightly intimidating for those of us who don’t make Excel spreadsheets for fun.

FIRECalc: To Avoid the Worst-Case Scenario

The “FIRE” in the name FIRECalc is an acronym for “Financial Independence, Retire Early.” The site has gained in popularity as the FIRE movement has picked up steam. All the young super-savers out there want to know when it’s safe to pull the trigger and leave their day job.

You use the site by inputting your spending numbers, your current savings, and your asset allocation. The calculator then shows how your portfolio would have performed for every starting point since 1871 by running a probability analysis called a Monte Carlo simulation.

FIRECalc is a good tool for the investor who’s looking to avoid catastrophe. It very quickly shows you how well a given portfolio would perform across a variety of different economic conditions. It also tells you how likely you are to end up running out of money in retirement. They use a great analogy to help make this concept intuitive:

“Suppose you are building a house in Honolulu. No one could predict the temperature for any given future date during the decades the house will be used. But if you know that it has never been under 52° in that location in all of recorded history, you could make an intelligent judgment about how much heating capacity is enough.”

The main downside to FIRECalc is that the interface feels dated. It’s not simple to find out where on the site you need to go to change your asset allocation, for instance. Another point against them is that you can only run simulations based on five types of stocks and three types of bonds. That makes the tool of limited use for those who want to invest in things like commodities or international stocks.

But if you’re interested in constructing a more standard portfolio based on stocks and bonds, and you want to know how well it can endure rough economic spells, then FIRECalc is great.

Bankrate: To Quickly Create a Simple, Balanced Portfolio

If you want a quick snapshot of basic asset allocation ideas, you should check out Bankrate’s Asset Allocation Calculator. It asks for information such as your savings, tax rate, and your future goals. It then generates a pie chart that recommends what percentages you should invest in stocks, bonds, and cash. And honestly, who doesn’t love a good pie chart?

This calculator is unique in that it asks you to input a number that reflects your outlook on the future of the economy. You can manipulate those variables and watch as the pie chart recommends more or less aggressive portfolios. This is a cool feature I didn’t find in other calculators.

I also like that they place a major emphasis on your starting age when giving portfolio advice. As the site notes, “Age is by far the most important aspect of asset allocation. The younger you are, the less likely you need this money any time soon.” That thinking might be implied by the other calculators, but there is something nice about seeing it written down and knowing that they think it should be critical to your asset allocation decision.

I’d love to see a version of the Bankrate calculator that includes more diverse investment options, but that would also require that they make sacrifices on ease, speed, and simplicity, so I understand why they have it the way they do.

Betterment: To See How You Can Save on Taxes

Learning how to buy and sell investments so as to minimize your tax burden is an art. Strategies like tax loss harvesting and automated asset allocation can save investors thousands of dollars if done correctly.

Betterment is a “robo-adviser” that prides itself on handling all the intricacies of tax management for you, a fact that their asset allocation calculator makes abundantly clear. Betterment’s calculator asks for your desired asset allocation, your current taxable and tax-protected investment numbers, and your investment horizon. Once you input the data, you can see how much money you’d save over the course of, say, 30 years, were you to reap the benefits of what they call a “tax-coordinated portfolio.”

I tried calculating how much I’d save on taxes with a 75%/25% mix of stocks and bonds, with starting retirement totals of $50,000 in both a taxable account and a Roth IRA, invested for 30 years. The result was an extra $37,000 in my account if I used their tax optimization techniques, which is nothing to sneeze at.

If you’re considering a robo-adviser for your investments, spend some time with this calculator to make sure the benefits will be worth the (potentially) higher fees that they charge (compared to DIY index investing).

The downside to the calculator is that its simplicity and ease of use comes at the expense of a lack of features. Much like with FIRECalc, it’s impossible to model a portfolio that invests in anything beyond stocks and bonds.

A Few Thoughts on Backtesting

All of the above tools use past financial data to try and make predictions about future returns. Some naysayers on personal finance message boards use this fact as a reason not to trust any portfolio arising out of such backtesting. They insist that because “past performance does not guarantee future results,” all the efforts to construct a portfolio based on backtesting are fatally flawed. They’re quick to point out that the perfect portfolio can always be cherry picked in hindsight, and that is all these calculators are helping you do.

There is some merit to that argument. You shouldn’t base your investment decisions solely on what has done well in the past. But, if you believe that history generally repeats itself, and that data analysis can help you find trends, then you should absolutely be using these tools to help inform your decisions.

To the backtesting naysayers, there is always some reason why the future will be totally different:

“The FED has been practicing a policy of quantitative easing, so everything is different now!”

“We now have Bitcoin, so everything is different now!”

“Banks are too big to fail, so everything is different now!”

All of that might be true. But we still have to do something. At a certain point we have to make an educated guess based on the most robust backtesting tools available to us, then let things run their course.

Summing Up

When dealing with asset allocations, it’s always important to keep in mind that the perfect is the enemy of the good. It’s better to start investing, even if just a little bit, than to wait on the sidelines for years searching for a portfolio you think will give you the best possible returns.

More by Drew Housman:

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